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This post was updated on .
Update on the crank gear, here is the nearly finished item, I still have to get all 5 bolt holes drilled and tapped for M8X1.25 bolts and determine the exact thickness needed for the spacer on the end of the crank.
This will get the timing belt alignment correct. It actually will sit in place correctly if I leave the big spacer behind the gear, but I would like to have a solid piece inside the hub so if I decide to do away with part or all of the spacer it won't matter.   I had a member on TurboDodge.com send me some pictures of his 2.5L Hybrid, in particular, his solution to the timing belt and accessory drives. He is using the same intake cam drive for the distributor and came up with a solution on the oil pump drive. He turned down the OD of one of the older gears until the ID of one of the 2.0/2.4L gears would just fit over it. He then cut the center out of the 2.0/2.4L gear so he could attach the completed piece to his intermediate shaft. I will do something similar, but want to see if once I get the two gears to go together, I can possibly epoxy them at the outer portion and use the existing hub for the 2.2/2.5L gears and possibly a spacer for the difference in ID of the two gears and a pin for the positive drive from the 2.0/2.4L gear.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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Progress!
 But how did the other guy cut the center out of the 2.0/2.4L gear? I can see doing that on the mill with a boring head. It would be easy after getting centered, which would be the hard part.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Gary, it looks like he used a hole saw.
 Part behind is a 40 tooth gear for a round tooth belt, front is a 42 tooth cam gear for a round tooth belt. The 40 tooth is the cam and intermediate shaft gear for a 2.2/2.5L common block engine, 42 tooth is a cam gear for a 2.0/2.4L engine.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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It doesn't look like the hole is centered, but I guess it really doesn't matter if it is just to allow the bolt to pass through?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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That was my thought, his picture on making it shows a bit better how it was done:
  
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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Today I was able to get the intermediate shaft gear modified. I turned down the OD of an old 1986 square tooth gear and faced off a bit where it would press in to the deep side of a 2.0/2.4L cam gear. I used an extra washer as a spacer between the two hubs. Washer is epoxied to the hub of the 2.0/2.4L gear, then the two gears were epoxied together. I currently have a cut off stub of the 1986 TBI cam (rusted badly enough to be scrap) used with a bolt to hold the assembly together until it sets completely. I am going to see if the Chrysler dealer I will pass tomorrow has the dowel for the 2.0/2.4L cams so I can see about drilling the washer in-line with the keyway so the entire assembly will be solidly joined together once the bolts are in and torqued.
 
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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That makes sense, Bill. And the pin prevents movement.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I fitted the modified (home made?) gear on the 2.5L short block and found that the OD of the 42 tooth gear has a slight interference fit with the front cover, I also discovered that the front cover curved area where the 40 tooth gear normally runs, is not exactly aligned with the circumference of the gear.
The 42 tooth gear lightly rubs the outer edge of the curved area, but at the inner edge it flat digs into the casting by somewhere between 1/32 - 1/16".   I roughed it in a bit, but will still need to work on it a bit more.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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Sounds like a plan, Stan.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I redid my intermediate shaft gear, I was originally going to use the stock 1989 gear, but getting it to line up with the 2.4L cam gears was a royal pain. DblTrbl sent me pictures of his 2007 Neon project. He used some cam gears that sat in a little further than mine and modified a 2.2/2.5L gear and 2.4L gear to get a 42 tooth intermediate shaft gear.
I did essentially the same thing, but my first try had more radial run out than I liked (that one used an old 2.2L square tooth gear and a 2.4L cam gear). The second try used a 2.5L round tooth gear and a 2.4L cam gear. This one seems to run very true. After cutting the OD of the 2.5L gear down to fit in the ID of the 2.4L gear and beveled the leading edge of the teeth on the 2.5L gear so it would fit all the way into the 2.4L gear ID. Once this was done I determined that the combination was roughly 1/8" too far out from the block, so I shortened the inner portion of the 2.5L hub so the 2.4L gear set exactly in line with the crank gear. I found a thick flat washer exactly the needed thickness to fill the gap between the hubs so the thin outer gear center won't crack.     I then finished clearancing the front cover so the gear doesn't rub. 
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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Good job! That makes sense and looks good!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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