Fuel Injection upgrade

True, you did take and flip the base over to elevate the droop some as well as provide some tilt to move the snorkel back some.

Even if I put the PCV up in the front and my breather in the back I do want enough room so I can actually get to the pcv and remove it from the valve cover for oil changes.  The passenger side rear on my truck with 31x10.50-15 tires and the fact I plan to install 2 1/2" taller coil springs in the front to level my truck out, it will be a pita to fill the crank case on the passengerside.  I also dont like the thought of pulling an aircleaner off just to add oil but if I have to I will do that.  But realistically I would like to try and keep the pcv in the back so I can connect it to the brake booster port on the rear to avoid the IAC so I dont gum it up over time by pulling crank case fumes through the IAC.

I did find this reasonably priced one its for a 460 as the listing stated.




The lid is dinged pretty bad on the corner but the rest looks pretty nice.  Just missing the plastic clip on the underside of the aircleaner for the vacuum lines.  I just need to see if those are still around.  If so I may pick this one up as its under $300 but still a bit pricy considering id have to source another lid and those lids I see go for around $125 - $150.

Gary, you said the 5.0 and 5.8 HO air cleaners had a steel base?

I found a steal of a price, $175 for a mustang dual snorkel air cleaner with snorkels but the inside looks quite rusty so not sure if its a rotted out piece or if its just dirt and grime laying on the inside.

Yes, all of the HO and 460 air cleaners I've seen have a steel base.  Hope that one works for you.

Thanks, this is the one I found for a lot less.



Just on the inside it looks like it could be possibly rust or just dirt/grime.  I hope its just dirt/grime cause it is still a pricy aircleaner.  Like wise hopefully the snorkels arent too short they look awfully short.



But $175 is better than $300+

It doesn't look too bad.

As for the snorkels, all of the snorkels I've tried have the same bolt pattern.  So you can take one off of a 300's air cleaner or a 460, or anything in between and bolt it on.

I got the one on my truck I am going to try and see if it seems like my truck one fits better then I will just have to source another snorkel like off my truck.  But the part number for 80/86 F150/250 trucks is a E0PZ-9A626-A and the photos online I found show a shorty snout which doesnt look like my truck one.

Looking at the photos honestly it looks like what the difference is, isnt the snorkel itself but the adapter piece that the snorkel is spot welded to.  The ones here on this aircleaner are short stubby adapters where mine on my truck are considerably longer.

Maybe if I just wait I might be able to find something I could salvage.  Maybe I can check that old '84/'85 F150 at work that we did a motor on that no one has paid a bill on it yet.  its been sitting so long I could take and rob the air cleaner off it as it is a 351W with a 4V carb.  might have the same exact adapter as my truck.

Went ahead and decided on my charge system upgrade, going with 130A 3G and not going to make changes.  I already finalized it where I cant make a change as I already bought a couple voltage regulators to try.

First one I got is a NOS Motorcraft one by a part number of F4ZZ-10C359-AA with GR822 on the box.  This is listed as a soft start white regulator with a 2 second soft start.  second one I also just bought a Motorcraft F5RZ-10316-A with GR818 on the box.  This one I read online from US Autoelectric that its a 3G alternator Regulator that replaces many part numbers and application numbers.  It is listed as a white regulator with a 14.7V set point but it says its a soft start regulator with a 10 second load response.

If the way I am understanding it the 10 second load response may be better for me as it takes 2 to 2.5 seconds for the sniper to boot up and prime for easy starting so a 10 second load response if it is soft starting for 10 seconds would work better for me than a 2 second variant.

I figured I will try each one and see which one works better for me.

I also placed a belt interchange request with GoodYear sales to see which Torque-Flex V belt will be a interchange for a Gates 9520 and Gates 7380 belts.  From their tech page it appears these are on par with the old Gatorback V belts that were amazing.

Next step is to find a lower amperage fuse, the free fuse holder I got with a free 175A fuse is way too high.  Thinking of looking for something around 140A as I dont believe I would ever reach 140A output unless the alternator failed and went full field.

I've always seen these things listed as "F786-R" or other numbers.

But the engineering number on the ones I use is f5ru-10316-ba



Speaking of vendors, I use Rotating Electric Products for all my alternator and starter parts.
I can't say enough good things about their fulfillment and customer service.

Looking at Rusty's photo, I'm beginning to think it's a shame dad's truck is not getting the HO air cleaner.

I remember looking for a matching typeface.... WAY back when.

One of the ones I bought is an actual Motorcraft NOS one with the box.  Box says One GR-818 F5RZ-10316-A Regulator.  The regulator itself says F5RU-10316-BA.

The other one I purchsaed is a new Motorcraft one that has a GR-814 number and the regulator itself is F4ZU-10316-AC.  This is the one that was listed as having a 2 second soft start.  The other one didnt state it was a soft start but the electronic site I used for reference listed the other one as being a 10 second delay soft start.

I dont know if that is their version or if its the spec of all GR-818, but I bought both just to be safe and will try both to see which one works better.  Plus they werent that expensive anyways, I was able to pick them up for $30 for the GR-814 and $21 for the GR-818.

Both of them came from Ebay since I was watching them on Ebay and they are new Motorcraft units not aftermarket replacements.  Only thing is the Motorcraft NOS one in the box the GR-818 it doesnt have the brush holder but even when you buy aftermarket replacements they dont come with the brush holders either so I should be able to reuse the brush holder from my new 3G when I get it and just swap the regulator out.

As you can see in my picture, both of mine came with brushes installed, and have Motorcraft markings.

I also didn't pay nearly that much for them.....

I really like the HO aircleaner.  I just wish they werent so expensive.  the one I last posted a photo on I have an eye on it its the cheapest but its still $175 which has me a little iffy on the pricing.  But then again even when I was looking for the larger single snorkel HO aircleaners they were up there in price as well.  I guess I got a steal of a price for that NOS aircleaner that was misboxed for under $150.

If I do go dual snorkel I will be tossing the short mustang snorkels and getting another longer truck snorkel.  I may also be doing like was shown and cutting the spot welds out and changing the angle to clear my dealer A/C setup.  The decal on the lid will go, I will polish the lid out to remove discoloration as well as to hopefully bring the shine out on it.  From there I will either source a reproduction decal apply it and apply a clear coat or will see if my older ford aircleaner decal I have will fit that says 302 4V Premium Fuel.

I am just waiting to see what comes up that is reasonably priced cause I still am on the fence and may go with a single snorkel still just to make oil change life easy on me.  With how high my truck sits on the 31x10.50-15 tires and the fact I will be throwing in a 1 1/2" taller coil spring in the front to level the truck out its already hard adding oil on the driverside front valvecover and I am really starting to think about how hard it will be on the passenger side rear to add oil.  I guess I could take the valve cover off every oil change but that just seems like more work than necessary.

Were yours reman or actually brand new?  Cause I found quite a few reman Motorcraft regulators for under $10 but I went for the ones listed as New.

Also on that one without the brush I went and canceled that order since I only placed it in the last 15 minutes I bought the same one from someone else that came with the brush $20 with tax included.  This vendor had reman ones for $7.50 but I went with the new listed one as I dont really trust reman.  They probably are fine though.

Also I checked the seller I bought the one with brush from and its rotatingelectproducts which I think are the same people you are talking about, Rotating Electrical Products

My air cleaner has the 460 police 4V "Regular Fuel" sticker on it.

Rusty_S85 wrote

I really like the HO aircleaner....
but with how high my truck sits on the 31x10.50-15 tires.....

 Quaint...

Nice.

This is the decal I got, it doesnt fit the NOS aircleaner I got and this aircleaner is for the CFI setup which has too big of a neck.  Hopefully it will fit the Mustang style aircleaner a bit better since I am going for the larger diameter one.  I feel the black and orange would go nicely with either a polished lid or a black painted lid.



Yep, I will be replacing all the springs so the truck will sit up a bit higher than it does now.  I know my suspension is a little worn down cause the right front tire will scrub the plastic fender liner if I have a passenger.  If its just me no problem.  The rear leafs I think are worn out as well as a good 200 to 300 lbs worth of rocks in the back squats the rear down.  Think its all those years as a work truck pulling a oversized trailer just shot the springs.

Nice

But I think I'd go with black, since I think gold would clash with silver.

A air cleaner like I had on my GT 'notch?
Same filter I am using on my truck.

Thats what I am thinking as well, painting the base, snorkels and lid black with that decal.  If that decal doesnt fit then I will probably just polish the lid and put the mustang 5.0L EFI decal on it instead.

Spent the last few hours working on a wiring schematic for a auxiliary fuse box which will house my Sniper circuits.

The first diagram I created was with the plan of using the six fuse/six relay universal fuse box I bought last year.  This was my first diagram created after changing my mind from carb to FI.



The fuse box really leaves future expansions out of the question so I started looking around, first I found a ten relay fifteen fuse box with three Mini ANL fuses that have the dimensions of 8" x 5" which may fit on my passengerside inner fender liner as my truck has dealer AC and has no vacuum ball mounted in this region.  But I felt that was a little too large and I found a smaller box that has nine relays/nine fuses with three Mini ANL fuses with dimensions of 6 1/2" x 4 1/2" which would take up a lot less room.  It also gives me three relays and six more fuses than my current box.  This allows me to actually add a A/C Compressor relay to take the clutch load off my cycling rheostat switch and I already would have my A/C clutch wire running into the relay box for my A/C cut out and A/C kick relays.  Wouldnt take much more wiring to simply use this A/C wire as a trigger for the A/C relay and the A/C kick relay with the output of the A/C clutch relay would simply go through the A/C cutout relay to the compressor.

This would essentially leave me two relays left for more circuits which I am leaning towards adding a roll bar with four more auxiliary lights which would take those two relays and two fuse circuits.  This would essentially leave me just two Mini ANL fuses for any add on circuits I may add in the future.  With the addition of this sniper I have thought about when finishing my truck adding a new alarm with the possibility of adding a remote start feature or if Dakota Digital gets a RTX Retro cluster for our trucks I would do this upgrade on my truck which would receive battery power from this fuse box.  Add on modules such as Compass module, ambient air temp module, and transmission temperature module I am un sure of if they need their own dedicated power or if they would be powered by the RTX control module.

So I am unsure if I will be going with the larger box or not, if I do all I would obtain is one more relay and a bunch of fuses.

This is my current wiring schematic and is still a work in progress and not finished.  Still need to figure out how I want to make my connections as I am leaning towards wiring my box up fully and have weather proof connectors that I would just have to make the extension harness to new add ons and not have to actually go into the box to add the circuits.  I could in theory make the whole box be removeable for service by using plugs on every circuit.  not sure how well they would handle higher amperage circuits though.

The DPDT Toggle on this diagram will replace my SPST switch that came with my KC Driving lights that I have mounted inline of the highbeam trigger for the Driving Light relay.  This switch currently allows me to switch the driving lights off of my high beam circuit in case local inspectors tried to give me a hard time over the lights being tied in even though its legal as they are Driving Lights.  I will be removing this and they will be wired in with no way to disconnect the circuit outside of pulling the driving light relay.  The switch that will be hopefully mounted below the dash next to my valet toggle is a DPDT with six terminals on the back.  I will be bringing one high beam trigger wire into the cab and attaching to one of the center 12V terminals and jumper it to the other 12V terminal in the center.  From there I will have the bottom terminal connected to Relay 7 with the other bottom terminal left empty.  Then the two top terminals would be connected to Relay 7 and Relay 8.  This On-Off-On relay would allow me to use my highbeam trigger for my driving lights to trigger neither R7/R8, trigger just R7, or trigger R7 and R8.  The R7 and R8 circuits would be going along the frame rail and up through my wood bed and up the tube for the roll bar if I get one.  One relay will supply battery power to two 100w Daylighter Spotlights and the other relay will supply battery power to two 100w Daylighter Floodlights.  By time I get to this point if KC can offer a better LED Daylighter Spot/Flood lights I will go with them instead, but as of right now every KC Daylighter LED Ive seen just looks weak when you stand infront of a truck with them but with the Halogen in 100w you stand infront of a truck with them on and the light is bright in the housing.  Now I know this doesnt really say that they are putting more light on the road but what I have read is some people claim the LED Spotlight is a bit narrower pattern than traditional halogen spotlight.  Still need to do some research on this and try to see some in person to make a proper comparison.



I have to put a disclaimer, the colors are not going to be accurate as I find myself making color changes so wires that have to cross other wires are shown they are crossing and not merging.  I also am not showing proper hook ups at the relays how I would do them.  In some cases it was easier to draw the diagram showing the power on terminal 87 instead of terminal 30 like I would hook it up as.  It was easier to draw the diagram this way to see what is going on.

What package are you using to do the drawings?  I find CAD to work very nicely for that.  For instance, I drew up my Carling switches using the factory drawings, but then realized that if I rotated the drawing 180 degrees it made the connections much cleaner.  So I just selected the guts of one of the switches, selected rotate 180, and boom, there it was.

I'm saying that because it would be easy to rotate the relays and put 30 on top.  And I fully understand what you are saying.

On which box to use, I'd recommend going with one that has room for expansion.  I ran out in my Ford PDB that's on the passenger's fender and can't do what I would like to do.  So when I put the matching one on the driver's fender I may move some functions there to gain room on the other side.  Just don't paint yourself into a corner.

Gary Lewis wrote

What package are you using to do the drawings?  I find CAD to work very nicely for that.  For instance, I drew up my Carling switches using the factory drawings, but then realized that if I rotated the drawing 180 degrees it made the connections much cleaner.  So I just selected the guts of one of the switches, selected rotate 180, and boom, there it was.

I'm saying that because it would be easy to rotate the relays and put 30 on top.  And I fully understand what you are saying.

On which box to use, I'd recommend going with one that has room for expansion.  I ran out in my Ford PDB that's on the passenger's fender and can't do what I would like to do.  So when I put the matching one on the driver's fender I may move some functions there to gain room on the other side.  Just don't paint yourself into a corner.

Im using Photoshop to create this.  Whats nice is each item has its own layer so I can click and drag and rearrange.  The circuits themselves are drawn directly on the base layer.  I could take and crop the numbers out and relocate them as well or take and crop the numbers out then actually flip the relay then place the numbers back on.  Not hard to do, just was more focused on laying it all out to get an idea of what I will need for the circuits.

Im currently thinking about using plugs but not sure if a weather tight connector would cause problems with the sniper since Sniper doesnt use them outside of connecting to the IAC, MAP, and injectors.  Id be a little concerned about the connection introducing resistance that might help promote RFI as all the reading Ive done on the matter, bad power/ground can result in RFI which is why Holley strongly recommends you make your power and ground connections directly to the battery.  Im seriously thinking about having the sniper fuse isolated and not bussed so I can run a power wire directly to the battery along with a ground.  But I dont believe I would have an issue as even via a bussed fuse circuit the other end is still directly attached to the positive side of the battery.

For the relays and switches I actually did like I did with my emission decal that I work on in my spare time, I found online a decent resolution drawing of electrical components then I load a separate tab in photoshop with that drawing then I highlight what I want go to image and copy then go to my diagram and go to image and paste and now I have a new layer to arrange.  Whats great about Photoshop as well for me is I can use it to maintain equal distances for a more professional look.  I just need to tweak my lower three relays up some as they are a little too far down but I mainly did that cause I didnt want to redo the circuits for relay 4, 5, and 6.

On the box thats why I want to check out this weekend with a card board cut out of the larger box I found even though it would leave me with one open relay it would allow me to use that relay for a remote start feature which I honestly believe you need a relay for an alarm with remote start.  If not I could use it as a disable for the Sniper fuel pump circuit so when the alarm is armed no one can hotwire the truck as the fuel pump in the tank is dead.  Down side with this is you run the risk the alarm not deactivating allowing for the fuel pump to be powered up.  But I could carry a small 10ga jumper wire where I could jumper the terminal bypassing the relay in an emergency case though.

I also dont know if I will be adding more lights and a roll bar, I am still on the hunt for photos of a 80 - 86 flareside with the GoRhino roll bar so I can see how it sits in the bed.  While I wont be hauling a lot with my truck I also dont want to paint myself into a corner by drastically reducing the little bed space I already have.  Cause for example if I go to the lake or river I would like to take an ice chest for example so I would need room for that.  Or if I go to the family reunion we have every year I would need room for taking raffle items for the reunion fundraiser as well as for bringing raffle items won home.  So I need to really be sure about it before I settle on it.  Like wise I also need to make sure the roll bar will sit on the wood itself and not on the stainless steel bed strips I will be installing.  This would allow holes to simply be drilled through the wood with large fender washers on the back side then if I ever decide to get rid of the roll bar all I would have to do is simply replace those boards or all of the boards.  The stainless steel strips wouldnt be damaged so they could be reused reducing my reversion cost quite a bit.

Only thing that might be a big problem for me is trying to find a DPDT switch like I want that is low profile that I can mount it under my dash and it not be seen.  It doesnt have to carry a lot of current as its only completing the circuit for the relay triggers for Relay 7 and 8.