grumpin

Someone asked which I like better, the two Fords I have or the Chevy, I said whichever one isn’t giving me any trouble! It does get old sometimes.

Update, I put the jets my Holley came with back in, 66’s, I put 64’s in it before I installed it for the elevation I’m at. I like it much better so far. Just seemed too lean.

Thanks for checking! I’ll keep playing with it.

Welcome!

Wow! Great job! Looks great!

Ended up buying it for $30. Battery charger works. It appears to be working, I can see RPM, volts and I think timing on one setting. It will probably work a lot better if I can find a manual. Needs some more cleaning from sitting. Contacted Stewart Warner about a manual because you never know, got a very quick response, he said they haven’t made it for decades and don’t have any data on it.

Welcome!

I did get there, did not chase any livestock. He wasn’t kidding, it was way out there. I joked I was looking for an altar or something like that in case he lured me out there for a sacrifice! He doesn’t know if it works, didn’t have a manual, so I offered $30 and he took it! Has sort of a bonus, someone mounted a battery charger on it. More on it later in the tools post. Your bed looks great!

Nice job! And I like the picture! Going down to meet the guy that has the one I posted in tools. He gets off at 3:00 and I’ll follow him to his ranch. I thought it was funny how he told people Google maps won’t get you to his ranch. If I only had some unruly kids to take...

I appreciate the kind words. Splitting with a maul is a learned skill. Usually it is more important to know where to hit then how hard you hit. (Gotta love ash and walnut if splitting by hand) I have split more wood with a 12 lb splitting maul then I care to think about, but it does give you some insight on how to position the rounds with a log splitter. It isn't always just throwing a block on and go to splitting. You can (and I have) get a block thoroughly stuck on this style wedge and have to spend a big amount of time removing the issue. I have plans to add a chain and some hooks on the push plate to help pull a stuck piece of wood off the wedge, but it is much smarter to toss the ones that just look bad into the cull cage and sell as a big chunk. I cannot take credit for being original. A lot of the ideas incorporated into this machine are found on others. I just picked the features I liked and used what I had to make it. I picked up some old bridge beam pieces cheap for the main split beam and infeed trough. There is an h pile welded to the bottom of the main split beam to give it enough strength since the bridge beam is laying on it's side. The infeed chains are all junk combine parts I traded to get out of the neighbors junk pile. Hydraulic motors came from used sources. The trailer itself is an old pull behind powered pavement broom trailer. It actually would look more thought out and planned than it actually was if I ever get it sand blasted and painted. The pieces all came together in a pretty compact package. The motor and a couple hydraulic pumps came from a piece of yard equipment. The big purchases where hydraulic controls, hoses, and fittings. I bought the right parts and splurged on the valves I wanted the machine to have. It wasn't cheap, but I think it will earn it's keep. There are a lot of hours involved in making the thing... That is a machine, indeed! I agree, impressive and ingenious. Neat to see. I agree on working smarter not harder, previous injuries hamper me and you have to figure out ways to do things. One of my ways, my 25 year old son, will be going to PA school as soon as he can. I’m looking at small cranes that mount in the receiver hitch. But, nothing like you’re doing. Keep at it.

Oh man! Bummer! Better now then later, as in leaving the hood open until you get ready to go to the appointment.

Welcome!

Nice! Pictures of the engine are too far away to see the MAF Sensor. It should have it in 96. Overhead interior trim piece missing. Maybe why they took the picture.

I’m looking for thoughts and or opinions on this. If anyone has used one, if you think it’s worth getting. I will use it on my 86 F250, unless it’ll work on some others I own. https://klamath.craigslist.org/pts/d/dorris-engine-electronics-analyzer/7312529222.html

Here’s what I use on my 92 Bronco. I like it, it works good. https://www.innova.com/collections/obd1-tools/products/digital-ford-code-reader-1981-1995-3145

Nice! Going to be a great rig!

Nice work!

Mine was metal, the only thing that was plastic was the wheel well. The wheel well was not an issue but getting all the metal pieces to line up was. I had to remove it a few times to form the metal to get close enough to the screw holes to get them in. And I still had to pry everything around to get it to work. Yes, mine is also. That’s what I did. Used the jack and 2x4’s to manipulate it in to place. Edit: I tried to find my post and could not. Could have been on another forum. Sorry.

Thanks for the feedback Randy. I may try epoxy. Right now the air intake is holding on by a thread but after it starts to run and vibrate I don't think it will last long. I did order a flexible hose from LMC that should fit but didn't install it yet since I need to take the air filter off anyway. The battery is so heavy I didn't want to take a chance of it flying around. If you order the parts like I did be ready to fight for hours. An extra set of hands would of helped for sure. Someone to form the metal while you try to get a screw in. I put in one screw at a time loose and formed the metal until the next went in loose and kept doing that until they were all in loose. Then tightened down a little at a time on each one until they were all tight. It is standard operating procedure for these things but I thought I would mention it to help others that may not know. I will do everything possible to avoid having to order replacement panels or hood. If the stinking battery tray was a fight I can't imagining getting a hood to match up or quarter panel. I did a post on putting in one of those battery trays. Because it’s plastic and years old they don’t line up. I used a jack and 2x4’s to position it and get it lined up. I don’t think it’s anyone’s fault, just the material used.

I ended up calling Holley, but I ended up where you and Gary are in my research. I was thinking two numbers, and Holley agreed. But, now I’m thinking it’s lean at lower elevations. I was thinking of going back to what came on the carb when I bought it. It’s a newer 4160. I live at 4100 feet of elevation. Now you got me thinking of ordering one number up. I also think I should quit thinking!

Wow! Maybe you could carry Dad’s Truck up on that cover!

Good news!

Welcome!

Makes me wonder if everything thing is correct with gallons and mileage. I pumped what I pumped and my odometer is close per mile markers. The original owner, I’m told towed RV’s with it. And it has the old Torklift tiedowns for a truck camper, had a fifth wheel hitch in it, and a hitch for conventional trailers. Wondering if they put a different torque converter in it.

What rpm were you turning? Im trying to set up my truck after I account for slippage in my worn out C6 to have 75 mph around 2,750 like it is currently but currently it should be around 2,300 rpm with 2.75:1 gears out back and the taller than stock 31x10.50-15 tires. Goal is to off set the taller tires by having a new C6 built with some goodies and a E4OD planetary gear set for quicker first and second gear then if I can get slip in the new transmission to be between 3% and 5% I am going to throw 3.25:1 gears out back which would put me with tire correction around a 2.90:1 where I should turn right around 2,750 @ 75 mph. If more slip I will go with 3.00:1 which would put me around 2.70:1 which would put me around the same rpm @ 75 mph. I know I probably should shoot for lower mph but where I live now the freeways I use are 60 and 65 mph marked and I have to go 70 and 75 mph just to go with the flow of traffic or I get ran down. Going to be a chore if I have to run down I10 where the posted limit is 75 mph and everyone is doing 80 to 90 mph. Like wise my cam has an ideal cruise rpm range between 2,400 and 3,000 rpm so ideally I am banking on 3% to 5% slip and 3.25:1 gears out back this would allow me to have 65 to 75 mph with in that rpm sweet spot making it ideal for local freeway driving as well as going on I10 in the right lane. Im also hopeful this new more powerful engine with a new non slipping C6 and better gears to offset the taller tires with EFI will net me better than the 16 to 17 mpg on the highway I currently get with my carb. Im hopeful to get it around what my 351W gets with its 2V carb which is 18 city and 25 highway but I dont know if I can achieve that so id be happy with 15 city and 20 highway which would be way better than the 12 city I get now in the summer time and 10 city I get in the winter time. Rusty, it was turning around 2600, it has stock 3.55 gears in it. And iirc, 265/75-16 tires. I may have mentioned, every truck I’ve owned but this and my Bronco, have had 4.10 gears. I really like the 3.55’s. Good enough to pull and much better on the freeway. I recalculated the two segments of my trip. It was 10.88 and 11.58 MPG. As Gary mentioned, good for a C6. And I am surprised.