grumpin

Welcome!

Good news! I applaud your efforts and patience. Good to know it can be done. Interesting that it runs better!

“ The fuel supply and what I think about it... this involves the tank switching valve, but the output pressure & volume are within spec, so my feelings are to leave it alone for the time being, one thing at a time.” I think that’s a good idea!

Could that be the oil in the refrigerant that leaked out?

Very cool! I see those hose clamps now!

I agree, I’m using the original lines with R134.

Good job Cory! It is nice to see the attention after all that work.

I looked through it twice and still didn’t see hose clamps! I like the Swiss Army Knife tool!

It is aggravating. I recently had to give the young lady at the parts counter at our local Ford dealership the part number for the ignition pickup on my truck. She kept muttering I should go get the guy who knows old stuff. I knew who she meant, and almost said, yeah, why don’t ya?

Nice job! Very ingenious on getting that heavy tranny in there by yourself! I like the sling on the wood, a flat at a time!

Several sizes of hose clamps. Knife and or knives. And of course, a coffee maker!

I will provide feedback after I install it. Thanks!

Thanks for the info, guys! The I-beams are solid, they appear to be a forging. What does that tell us? I think I remember seeing somewhere when shopping for ball joints about an 8/81 cutoff, so I think there may have been a very short window in the 81 model year where ball joints were used instead of kingpins. One donor truck I am looking at is a 95, it has a 351W (which I think would be a hydraulic roller motor), and what the ad describes as a "4D03" transmission - I think the seller means an E4OD. So that is an electronically controlled C6 with an overdrive, as I understand it. My question there is, is the trans controller separate from the engine controller? In other words, can I plug that transmission behind my carb'ed 351W running the trans controller only? If they are all one unit, I would either have to run the full 1995 engine/transmission package (I'm not entirely averse to FI), or see if someone makes a stand-alone controller for that trans. Any info appreciated there. I agree, the 95 351W should have roller valve lifters. It has been my experience and my opinion that the E4OD behind a lot of power and torque should be beefed up. Had one in a 94 F250 with the 460. Having said that the E4OD in my Bronco has been trouble free. With my fuel injected 351 I’m getting around 15 MPG on the highway. I really like how the Bronco performs with the 351W and the E4OD. I would like a truck with the same combo.

Nice write up! Excellent work! This will be useful. Getting harder to find parts and some stuff is getting very expensive on eBay and such. Speaker grille looks great!

Thank you for your feedback. Based on the reviews I was going to avoid that drain kit. Seems many people have had a leak problem from that kit. I bought a pan with a drain and that same gasket. I’m curious how it works for you. I haven’t had a chance to put it on yet. My Suburban came with a permanent gasket, I think from the factory. It’s much thinner. I like it. I’m concerned because this one is thick. May have to torque it several times to get it to settle in. Bought a Moroso gasket for my Bronco too, haven’t got it in either.

https://medford.craigslist.org/cto/d/medford-1982-ford-bronco-xlt-lariat/7341171958.html Another Bronco, I think it’s in the right place! Head west Gary! Needs more pictures.

Yep, it is gone, in more ways than one.

Gone! And when I tried to find this I realized it wasn’t in the craigslist etc. section.

Yes kind of, I know you can jump the switch to get the compressor to run but if the system pressure was to low, say 2 or 3 psi, I dont know what psi his system has at this time, could it make the compressor look bad when you jump the switch? Just trying to figure out why the shop said the compressor is bad and needs to be replaced? I will be taking my gauge set and vacuum to him on Saturday and may have a little more information then. Thanks Dave ---- If the shop jumpered the switch and ran the A/C, and the gauges showed almost the same pressure, that could indicate a bad compressor. But, if the pressure was that low, I would find the leak(s), and try servicing it before I replaced the compressor. I understand why you’re questioning them.

Good job!

Sweet! Good job!

Wow! I did not realize that was a 4 gallon tank. I’m interested to see how it works for you.

Looks nice! Did you use LED’s? Sorry, if you said I don’t remember.

Welcome!

My thought is since it’s a small tank you might lose too much pressure to push the volume. Always worth a try though. And I may be way off base!