FuzzFace2

Oh man don't I know that. It was the ends that had pin holes in it. I was able to remove the mounting bracket and used fiber glass rosin to coat the can. Painted it black, put the mounting bracket back on and installed in the truck. I still need to pick up a check valve that goes between the vacuum supply and the can or as said under low / no vacuum the doors go to defrost. So people know what the "juice can" look like. Dave ----

Did you look behind the seat in my truck I also have the behind the seat storage so it does not move around. I cant really mount it on the transmission hump because of the shifter stick and if I could it would be hard to get to. Cant get to it fast if it was mounted on the pass side kick panel and it would block the vent that I use because I don't have AC. So behind the seat on the left side where I am and the seat back lock should be easy to get to but should take it out of the box LOL Dave ----

I have one in my work truck (18 wheeler) and I hardly turn it on. I use it mostly when I get to load sites to hear when I am lined up with the load cone for cement. Only a few have radios, others have loud speakers, horns or TV screens you can see for line up. Because of where and what I drive for work, local radio stations work the best 90% of the time. In the last few years o long trips I have not installed one in the DD as you would not hear anything till too late. Dave ----

First if you can hang them and beat them like they did to rugs back in the day. This should get a lot of the dirt out. Then power wash them. I got a used rug from a buddy that did not look that bad but was dirty. I got it after he hung it over a railing and power washed it. When I got it home I hung it and beat the he11 out of it the get the dirt out. I then used a good power vacuum and got more dirt out. I then washed it with Dawn dish soap and water hose, don't have a power washer. After it dried and beat the he11 out of it again and got more dirt out. At this point I called it good enough. So use what ever you have because if they are that bad you will not use them you have nothing to loose if you trash them as they were going in the trash anyway. Dave ----

I think on wheels it depends on early 80's or mid 80's Not a Ford But I bought a new 86 4x4 K5 diesel Blazer. The wheels I added where steel bullet hole ones, same as factory but was able to get 5 (spare) for the price of factory 4. Grille guard but I had the square KC driving lights on it and CK square fog lights under the bumper were they do the most good. Bug shield on hood, I did have a CB with trucker ant. mounted to the mirrors. Roof rack & rear window wind deflector was all I added to the truck. Now on my 81 F100 flare side I bought it used with turbine wheels and I would think they where a carry over from the mid to late 70's into early 80's. Because the truck is a 4x2 I don't think it would look good with a grille guard, bed roll bar or KC lights so I have not looked to add them. Now I do have fog / driving lights but I mounted them in the bumper (guess a 2000thing?), not above or below as I did not think it would look good. Both the Blazer & the F100 have tape decks and some tapes are in the glove box, too much other stuff I need on the seat and floor. Dave ----

If you have to undo the long bolt thru the spring to install the sway bar bracket I think the distance from the beam to end of arm is shorter than the threaded part of the arm into the frame bracket. If so I think it would be easier to undo the long bolt and pull the beam forward a little then pull the arm from the frame bracket. Replace the arm bushings, arm back in the frame bracket and pull the beam forward to fit back into the arm so you can install the long bolt and parts for the sway bar. Then again when I put the beam and arm back in the truck I did the arm to frame bracket first then the center beam pivot bolt. So maybe just undo the pivot bolts to drop the assy.? Dave ----

It took a little while before I got mine. Part of the problem is somewhere around 83 or 84 the radiators changed and so did the hold downs, bolts go thru the plastic tanks into the support. Wrong radiator in my truck when I bought it. Parts truck had the right radiator but when they pulled the motor they did not throw the mounts in the truck. I think I got mine thru https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum231/ From someone parting out a truck. Good luck on the hunt Dave ----

I ran one on a 83 Toyota L/C straight 6 motor when I raced the truck off road, sand drag, hill climbs. I also had a Holley 2300 v2 carb and headers the rest of the motor was factory stock. This was back in the late 70's early 80's and there was not a lot of information out about the systems. I never had any issues with how it ran / worked. I can tell you it should have it's own fuel supply when the NOS system is armed. This way unless the NOS fuel pump fails you will not run lean when spraying. You will need to run a colder plug and turn back the timing, think it was 2* for every 100 hp of spray but check on that. You also want the RPM up before the spray is added. Today they have all kinds of controllers & switches. Run a colder plug and a controller with a switch on the carb so when at full throttle the controller will cut back the timing and start to spray. My truck had 2 electric fuel pumps. 1 to feed the carb and the other just for the NOS. The 2nd pump had a main "arm" switch that turned on the NOS only fuel pump. I had a button on the shifter handle, 3sp stick floor shift, and once I left the hole, RPM up, I hit the button. We ran low range and started in 2nd gear so it was a straight back shift to 3rd till the run was over. I would never go thru all that work "just to have it" and depending on the type of racing it might not be allowed in your class. If running brackets, drag racing, it can never run the same number each run with spray so if you want to go rounds don't use NOS. Now if you still want to run spray the last thing you have to worry about is where to get the tank(s) filled? When we (race team and 3 of us ran spray till our class would not allow it) we had a welding supply that would fill them for us (medical grade) but they knew us for buying other supplies. Today I don't know if they can fill them (law?) as the NOS used in spray has something added that will make people that may use it for "fun" sick and not use it or they could die. I have heard of some speed shops, are there any left?, had large tanks they could fill the small one from but again where is a speed shop? So how is spray look now Dave ----

For the rear looks like I would need the 80/82 for the 9" rear axle and all the hardware. I know the front hardware can be a hard to come by. And yes I have undone that long bolt when I redid the front suspension, did it 2 times and I took it apart on the parts truck also to mix n match good parts. Maybe one day when not looking it will all fall into my lap Dave ----

Thanks looks like the power in might be the only thing the trucks have. In the old days you tapped into the brake light switch to turn on the brake lights. We would need to run a brake wire to the rear. Dave ----

Trailer brake controller, would the 81 truck also have them I don't remember seeing that plug, have to go look, but also was not looking for it when I installed the harness or is that part of the trailer tow harness? It would be nice but I just wonder what the wires are? Power in, brake light feed, ground? Power out, blue normally, would be a heavy gauge wire to the rear of the truck. edit I got to read the post before I start typing now to go look over that page Dave ----

It gives me a starting point. Once I get the visors installed, need to paint them first hope this weekend, I can do a "mock up" and see if they clear. Thanks Dave ----

You can get the glue in auto parts stores but in the past I have found it does not last. I would hit a local auto glass shop and have them glue it back on. They may only want to glue the mount with out the mirror till the glue has time to set up. BTW if you can see where it was mounted you may want to mark the out side of the glass so you / them know where it should be mounted. I had 1 place "guess" when the glass was replaced and I could not use the sun visor as it hit the mirror till it fell off and I never installed it back on. Dave ----

It is strange the bars are the same size front & rear? For cars most of the time the front is larger of the 2 bars. Also if you have a front bar and add a rear the front should go larger, again for cars. I would like to add front & rear bars but finding the front frame & spring mounts will be the hard part and why I have not looked into it more. Dave ----

I am for the carry over till the truck is a winner. As for pinning, any way to move the non-winners over to the new TOM post? I know it puts more work on you or Gary's helpers if they have the rights. Dave ----

I want to thank you for bring this up. I have 2 but 1 is busted, think from the roll over parts truck? but think they were 2 different sizes? I cant remember but think 1 was a day / night type, the larger cracked one? Both are black. I don't have one installed yet as the mount is not on the glass and I want to mount the sun visors so I know they will clear the mirror. What size mirror is everyone running 10" or 12"? On that can someone get measures of the mount? From the top of the glass and side to side this way I have a clue where it should be mounted. Thanks Dave ---- I should look over the chart they all are D / N mirrors from the look of it.

Pete, have you checked Rock Auto for the radiator? That is where I got mine for my 81 with a 300 six. I cant help on the hold down but on the mount you know it is a 2 part deal. 1 part goes over the radiator, C bracket with a tail and the tail bolts to the support then there is a support bracket, Z type, that goes over the top of that part to support it. A member got a set for me but was missing the top support so I had to make one. Before I got them I made brackets that was just an "L" to hold the radiator in place and used rubber hose between it and the radiator to protect it. Think of this as a BTTT Good luck Dave ----

In order to use a tach in a non-tach cluster you first have to have gauges not lights. IIRC should also be 81 on up as 80 has different wiring for the gauge cluster. If you meet the above besides the tach you need the printed board for gauges and tach. There are 3 printed boards: Non-gauges Gauges no tach Gauges with tach. I was able to add a tach to my 81 gauge only cluster by adding the printed board for Gauges with tach and the tack. They also say you may have to plug a wire in the engine bay by the left fender, I did not have to do this. Dave ----

Yep rust proofing. Zbart was known to do it this way as it was the only way to get the rust proofing in areas, like that roof areas that likes to rust. I first saw the seats, the black dots were not a big deal to me as I had seen this before on cars & trucks when you live in the rust belt. Dave ----

Pretty sure it doesn't fit my 117" WB truck, so it must be for 133" WB and longer? David, you and I are out buddy! The only crossmember I have that is similar to this one has little bends/curls where the gas tank sits, and this one is flat...so I assume it goes AFT of the fuel tank crossmember on 133" and longer trucks?... Cory you are right It is curved on the front side also. The next cross member is the one aft axle and if you had a rear tank the tank straps hook to. That wood 4x4 the frame is sitting on is on the rubber bumpers for the axle. Dave ----

I am going to guess here but the bed bolt go down thru the tie downs that go front to rear. The boards are tung & groove IIRC so you get them tight to each other and the bed side bolts hold them in place. It does look nice and love the tie downs. Dave ----

I had a hard time spending $3000+ just for OD and not be able to split all the gears if I wanted to. Thing is it cant be used with an auto but can be with stick & 4x4. I am sure this virus messed up them building the OD unit and why I don't have it yet. Yes the shifter(s) will be fun to deal with. I have a different hump cover that has the transmission opening back farther so may not have to cut that big a hole for that. I have also seen different mods to the OD stick to move it to the center more if needed. I would love to shift it with an electric motor like a 2sp rear axle. I found that the early ones were electric shift but had a high failure rate so they went with the stick. I might be able to get one to work but I am seeing them for about $400 and up so don't need to electric shift it that bad LOL I forgot the GVOD unit replaced the tail housing with an adaptor so cant check the speedo. Dave ----

See what happens when you seal the drains, new floor pans, water has no place to go Sorry that sucks. Are you sure the water is not coming in thru the kick panel vents? If the cowl drains are not clean the water in the cowl has no where to go and can enter the cab thru the vent opening. Dave ----

Cory, what did you use to repair that part on the air intake that broke in shipping? Little plastic glue, plastic weld or ? On that JY breather part, that is the only place I know to get them. I still need one for the 300 six but there is just enough of the filter poking thru that that your parts fits on that I was able to slip a hose on it. Dave ----

Guys have been busy then again what else can you do when locked down Jim, nice job on the floor & rocker. When looking over the pictures I saw you did not cut out for the cab mount bolt and was going to say something but you did in a post farther down. I think I used my plasma cutter and then grinder to clean it up. For you I think a hole saw top & bottom to get the rounded parts right then a cut off wheel to cut the center. You will need to trim the hole to fit the covers. On the mounts I did not replace them so cant say how to go with them. On the fender, yes I am late, being you cant get to the back side for hammer & dolly work my next go to tool would be the stud welder and dent puller. Then finish as normal. Dave -----