FuzzFace2

That is an interesting question. The bottom end of the engine is quite stout and when properly set up can do 5 - 6000 RPMs. But, a stock carbureted engine will absolutely run out of breath by approximately 3300 RPMs and anything above approximately 2800 RPMs is just making noise. Just everyday normal driving I cant see running the RPM up over 2000 when going from 3rd to 4th gear I may run it a little higher once in a while but with the T18 its not a race truck LOL I like that the 300 pulls from like 800/1000 up to 2500 RPM Dave ----

I did not know there was a rubber boot on the top of the shifter? What I was thinking of was like this for the OD shifter https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/crown-automotive-m20-transfer-case-shifter-boot-j5353263/_/R-BKMN-J5353263 Then I saw this, kills 2 birds with 1 stone https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/crown-automotive-shifter-boot-5752141/_/R-BKMN-5752141 Just need to do some measuring to see if it would work. Dave ----

It was hard to get out to the garage this morning did not get started till about 10am and I was up at 5:30am to hit it hard First up was the main shifter using a MAP gas torch I was able to heat it and make a few bends. It clears the seat now, granny is pretty far reach forward but not to bad and if I was to bring it back then my elbow would then hit the seat. It is also a little tall but I can live with that. Then on to the OD shifter. I needed to find out how much throw it would have and was kind of short to the point I checked it for about 5 min just to make sure. Then to figure how to bolt the stick on and still clear the OD housing. I was first thinking of making a stand off so the stick would be in the bolt on pan area. That would not work because of the housing so back to the MAP gas torch. Did 1 bend to get it in the pan area but the main stick now hit it so back to the torch and was close went to go just a little more and the vise broke! So took the stick to the car trailer for the last tweak and everything now clears. Does not look it but it does clear With both shifter sticks working it was on to the pan. It has a tall part at the front that I did not need or want as it could make fitting the carpet tuff. Took a lot of measurements and marked the pan and started cutting it using a cut off wheel on my small grinder. I also made a cut along both sides of the tall part so I could lower it. A little hammer & dolly work, more cutting, some welding, test fitting and more of hammer & dolly work, more cutting, some welding till it fit. I tried fitting the shift boot on the main stick and found I need to fill in a little bit here & there. I fitted a piece but the welder was put away so it will have to wait. I sanded the 2 sticks and gave them a few coats of paint and let dry over night. I also washed the shifter boot so it will be ready to go. I don't like the shifter boot that came with the OD unit, it is a large boot made for a main stick and just will not work for the OD shifter. I think I have seen boots for transfer cases that move forward & back and skinny to work where I have the stick. I am on stand by for work tomorrow so going to take the drive shaft to the shop hope its not to much $$ Then to finish up the pan, fill the OD and drain & fill the trans. Bolt down the pan and see if the carpet will fit. Dave ----

Looks nice. That silver one did paint up good. I did https://www.speedhut.com/ custom gauges in another project but wanted them to look stock till you looked close at them and seen 160 MPH speedo, a 4 in 1 large gauge like the speedo, etc. and they have the make & model of the car printed on the face. Dave ----

Gear Vender's OD is after the transmission or transfer case. You pull off the tail housing install adaptor and bolt the unit on. Thing is being it is at the end it cant be used in 4x4 mode. It has a safety where it will not work below 30 MPH and it is BIG BUCKS! As for a lot of work well ..... When you read the information on AA's site it unbolt the transmission and move it back 7.5 inches, bolt the trans to the back of the OD unit, move the cross member back 7.5 inches, shorten the drive shaft and bolt the OD shifter stick and you done. Well ......Yes you do all that but it is the doing that can be the low of work part. I knew I would have to deal with the cross member but did not know it would be like that. I also knew of the shifters. The main trans could stay as is as long as the seat does not need to move forward then reverse may not go in but I will fix that. The OR shifter would work if I wanted to cut into the floor but I don't want to, it has to go in the pan. Once I have that squared away I will see if the carpet I have will fit over the pan as the (free) carpet was from an auto truck. Dave ---- Thanks guys Rob I left out some things it was not that hot in the garage. The humidity was low today and temp got up to about 85*, 88* in the garage when I closed up. I also had my fan blowing down across the floor as I was under the truck most of the time. I have run the numbers thru the calculator with the rear gear (2.75) I have it should put me at about 1800 RPM @ 70 MPH. Speed limit is 70 here so everyone is doing 75-80but to keep the RPM down and MPG up I have been keeping it at 65 MPH. BTW at 55 MPH, the MAX speed limit back then it does about 1800 RPM Dave ----

Gear Vender's OD is after the transmission or transfer case. You pull off the tail housing install adaptor and bolt the unit on. Thing is being it is at the end it cant be used in 4x4 mode. It has a safety where it will not work below 30 MPH and it is BIG BUCKS! As for a lot of work well ..... When you read the information on AA's site it unbolt the transmission and move it back 7.5 inches, bolt the trans to the back of the OD unit, move the cross member back 7.5 inches, shorten the drive shaft and bolt the OD shifter stick and you done. Well ......Yes you do all that but it is the doing that can be the low of work part. I knew I would have to deal with the cross member but did not know it would be like that. I also knew of the shifters. The main trans could stay as is as long as the seat does not need to move forward then reverse may not go in but I will fix that. The OR shifter would work if I wanted to cut into the floor but I don't want to, it has to go in the pan. Once I have that squared away I will see if the carpet I have will fit over the pan as the (free) carpet was from an auto truck. Dave ----

I don't know if I could ever find one so I am thinking of making one from a seat I can get from a FTE member just around the corner when he is ready to give it up. I am going to help him swap wiring harness and dash between trucks like I did. When you did it once it is cake after that just have to get thru this virus thing first. He also needed to have someone hear the motor run in the truck he is using for parts before the swap. Dave ---- It was a long day, started around 8am and turned the lights off at 5:30pm. I did get done what I wanted just took longer than I thought it would. I removed the front bearing retainer as the snout has to be cut down to fit in the back of the over drive unit. Started with this And ended with this installed back on the transmission Because the trans on the jack will not fit under the truck upright I had to lay it on it's side then once under had to upright it. Well this was not going to work as you cant get leverage so I got 2 HD straps, ran it from frame rail to rail under the trans and lifted it off the jack than was able to rotate it up right then back on the trans jack and a strap to hold it in place. Got it jacked up, lined up and almost in when I remembered you have to put RTV sealer between the trans & OD or it will leak so I pulled it out a little and added the RTV, hope it is enough. I then washed the cross member & brackets as they were covered in oil from the motor & the old trans. Once bolted together the fun started on the cross member and brackets. When I put the cross member up to the trans I found the cross member off tone side? Turning the rubber mount around fixed that but came another issue. The OD pushes the trans back 7.5 inches and the frame lip gets thinner making the bolt hole half on & off the rail. After turning, pushing & pulling there was no way to get the bolt hole on the frame rail lip so I ground a notch on each side to fit the bolts thru and used large washers. I may come back and address this at a later time but I think it is a solid mount with the brackets installed. That was the next issue, the brackets. They fit like crap till I swapped sides and they fit better but still had a gap between them & frame or main cross member. So fitted them the best I could clamp them so I could mark the location of the bracket holes. Then the fun of drilling them. Started with a 1/8" bit then used a uni-bit to drill to the large size. I used a 45* drill and it fit between the channels to drill the holes. Got all the bolts and nut in and tight and no more trans jack holding up anything. So motor, over drive and NP435 are now one! I gave a quick fitting of the SROD pan and it did not fit and neither did the T18 pan. Not wanting to cut up the T18 pan in case I want to go back less OD, I will mod the SROD pan to work with this set up. I also installed the shifter to see if it clears the seat. Well it does clear the seat in the forward gears but in reveres it touches. So I will need to heat it and bend it to clear. As for the over drive shifter I may end up cutting, welding, heating and bending to make it fit like I want. The over drive is to the left. Tomorrow is shifter fitting of both and moding the pan to fit if I have the time. Dave ----

A buddy had one at his station and why I thought of it. The wheels that went under the car or truck did not swivel they were steel with a nut & bolt thru the out rigger. This did not fold up so he would push it out of the bays along with some other equipment when he opened up and push it back in a closing time. Not fun when it been snowing all day to push that stuff back in This would have been back in the 80's so I don't know if they had folding cranes back then? Dave ----

Ok now I under stand what Gary is saying, it's been awhile since I used the picker & my HD 4 wheel stand and had this issue. When I had the 300 on the stand for new gaskets I used my light duty stand (3 wheel) so did not have this issue. So the issue is with the picker not the stand so much. What if the picker had a "H" base where the stand could fit in between. On the Y/H type because the stand hits the Y as it get closer to the base is where the issue is you would not have that with an H base picker. It could still be made to fold up for storage. Dave ----

I don't know if I could ever find one so I am thinking of making one from a seat I can get from a FTE member just around the corner when he is ready to give it up. I am going to help him swap wiring harness and dash between trucks like I did. When you did it once it is cake after that just have to get thru this virus thing first. He also needed to have someone hear the motor run in the truck he is using for parts before the swap. Dave ----

Nice little trick have to remember that the next time I have a casting oozing oil Be nice of I could pour some in the oil let a little leak out hit it with the primer and heat and wipe clean and no more leaks. As they say no such thing as a mechanic in a can LOL Dave ---- I started a thread on the Advance Adaptors Over Drive and transmission swap from a T18 to a NP435 in my truck http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Operation-NP435-amp-Over-Drive-td64090.html#none Dave ----

Up at 3am for work, home early and after a cup of tea I moved the Javelin out of my garage back to the house and the truck in. Started pulling the truck apart about 12pm stopping for a run to the parts store for thread locker, 2qt W30 motor oil used for break in and some gasket sealer. Pulling the old T18 the HF transmission jack is to high so I had to tilt it and made a huge 90w gear oil mess beside taking a shower in it. But happy to say the OD unit is bolted to the bell housing. I wanted to get the NP435 bolted to the OD unit but I hurt my hip and called it quit at 4pm. Before I can bolt the transmission up I need to trim the front bearing retainer to 3/4" from the mounting face out keeping the seal in tack, then a thin coat of gasket sealer and bolt up. Then the fun. How do I get the 4 bolts out the top of the frame for the cross member? I don't want to bend the floor so guess undo the cab mount bolts and lift? Then I get to drill the frame for the cross member. I did try the OD shifter stick and 1 way it just clears the edge of the pan on the pan side but it will hit the dash. The other way it will be on the side of the trany hump and I don't really want it there. I am pretty sure I will end up cutting, bending and welding it to fit in the pan area. I have seen others do the same and also build a stand off to move it closer to the center of the hump. I also will not know where the shifter for the trans will end up in the pan but the SROD pan has the opening back farther than the T18 pan so I hope I don't have to cut it up too much. Dave ----

Are you pulling the same car trailer all the time or different trailers? Not knowing what motor, transmission and rear gear I don't see why it cant pull the trailer. P/S is nice but the trick is you have to be moving when you turn the wheel. I learned to drive and took my drivers test on a non-P/S van and never had problems as long as I was moving. Oh I also pulled a few trailers with that same truck. My 81 F100 flare side with P/S & brakes, NP435 (granny gear), 2.75 rear gear is a back up for my car trailer. I do have to say I have not pulled the trailer yet but don't for see any issues once I get the truck wired for brakes. Dave ----

If you switched flashers around and only the 4 ways keep working, you have power to both flashers and power into the switch from the turn flasher I would say it is a bed switch. As for the 5A fuse not having power some fuses don't get power till what ever they protect is turned on. So turn on the park or head lights and check again. Dave ----

It will probably be worth it when the current one breaks, if it does. I bought that auto trans indicator today. I hem hawed about it then thought that it would be worth it. Nothing wrong with mine that I know of, just in case. I hope this last fix I did with the roll pin down the center of the threads & head and the good weld this time will be last along time. The other thing I have going good for it to last is the linkage is not wore out and no bushings missing like when I got the truck. But if it does break I will be kicking my self. I also cant spend $$ after the banker (wife) saw what I paid for the over drive unit and I still need a drive shaft. Dave ----

DIR/BU = Directional / Back Up lights You have a test light? Could use it to check for power and this is what I like to use in this case. Dave ----

This is going to be a hard one as I under stand the motor does not shut off and stay off but shuts off and then back on when you let off the throttle. Take it no tack in the in the truck? Maybe you could pick up a cheap one and just lay it some where and when this happens see if the tach is showing RPM or not. Dave ----

And you would not need to step over the crane legs to work on the front. I also think even making the arm short and folded down it will nail you in the back a few times till you wind out removing the arm. Then what do you do when you have a 2nd project you need to pull the motor on or support say a frame and you got this motor on the crane or need a 2nd motor stand? Don't tell me you have not needed more than 1 stand as I had 2 stands in a vary small 1 car garage before I moved to NC? FYI when I got home with the NP435 transmission there was no way I was going to lift it out of my truck myself guess what I used? Yep the crane that did not have a motor on it Dave ----

Man that is a lot of $$ to have as a spare for when mine breaks again. I thought someone was trying to make them was it on here or ? Dave ----

To my door was $1608, I ordered it back early March just before this virus hit and messed up when I got it. It is now hot here, been in the 90's and humidity about the same just killer outside. The Gear Vender OD is over $3000 and could not spring for that. Also did not think it would work the way I wanted it to. I would like to split granny and the GV you have to be going 30 MPH before it will work. This is a safety because it works like and auto transmission and the pump that makes it work has to be going that fast. I have not seen it in a Bullnose. What I have found they don't get into how the shifters, OD, main trans and maybe 4x4, all fit. They do say the floor or in our case the bolt in pan, has to have the opening moved back 7-1/2". I have the pan from my parts truck, SROD trans, and the main hole is back farther than my T18 is so hope I don't need to cut & weld much. Now I am going from the T18 to a NP435 and it has a different shape to the stick so I don't know how it will fit till installed. I did find something cool when researching this the larger trucks F500+ have a cut back on the seat bottom to clear the shifter stick. If I knew this I would not have scrapped the seat bottom I had as I could have made it work the same but 80% of the springs were gone and why it went away. I do have a line on another full seat I might try this on we will see. I think the hardest part(s) drilling the 8 hole in the frame to move the cross member back, If the speedo cable will reach and if the stick will clear the seat. In between the rain today I plain to swap car out of my garage into the house garage and get the truck in, maybe start the swap. Stay tuned LOL Dave ----

On a good note, us guys that have only a 16 gallon side tank can fill-up much quicker! They outlawed the latches on the gas pump nozzles here years ago, so you have to stand there for the whole fill-up. I don't use my truck that much, so having my full tank range being limited to only 240-250 miles is just fine for me. If I ever get the opportunity to take the truck on a trip, I'll be wanting to stop more often than that anyway. A little trick is to use the cap wedged under the handle to hold it on so you can wash the windshield. Dave ----

You don't need a compression tester to find TDC. Pull #1 plug, ground the coil wire and using a starter button hold a finger over the plug hole and bump the starter till the air pushes your finger off the hole. Then check to see if the timing marks line up. If it is off you should be able to turn the motor by hand. Then check the firing order. Dave ----

Well not really. There should be a check valve between the vacuum supply and the holding tank to keep this from happening. My check valve is in place but is bad and at times I can hear the air flow change where it is going. So just because the valve is in the line check to make sure it is working. And yes that tin can can also rust out and cause a vacuum leak, been there done that also. Dave ---- With a leak the vacuum tank can only do so much. I had a small leak on the recirculating door plumbing on my Bronco and it would show up on long climbs in the mountains. Had a big leak on my truck, hose knocked off by a mechanic, and it would catch up and go to vent, but any acceleration and it would go back to defrost. I am pretty sure it is the check valve as it did not "check" when I tested it. The only plastic line I have left is inside the truck and it was in pretty good shape. I also know the tin can is not leaking as I "sealed" it. Dave ----

The stand part the H where it rest on the crane are angled a little. Now you pull the motor with the fly wheel away from the crane & stand so now you have to set the motor on something or floor and turn it around so you can bolt it to the stand. My crane also folds to get it out of the way. I have 2 may be 3, don't remember now, stands and IIRC only 1 is a 3 wheel the others are 4 wheel. 1 also has a pipe to get lavage for turning the motors because grabbing the motor does not always work for turning it. Dave ----

I had a Toyota L/C that had an over drive that I would split the gears on. It had some that where really to close to split just like I think this unit will have but should be fun. Around town I don't know how much splitting will be done, it is more for the high way as I am looking for another gear when I get on. When on the high way it is only spinning 2300 rpm @ 65 mph but the speed limit is 70 MPH. I also think when I pull the car trailer splitting will help that little 300 pull the weight. I want to start this project but I need the truck for the weekly trash run on Saturday as the truck has the permit but I may sneak this weeks trash in. I am sure if they catch me I can tell them that "bright red & white truck" is in the shop, it is the only truck that color I have seen all the times I have gone. Dave ----