FuzzFace2

On the regulator, Holley & Summit Racing's knock off are the same from what I have seen. It should have 4 screws holding the top part on to the main body. This is a Holley regulator on my drag race car that I run a Holley Blue Pump on. On your regulator I would have mounted it closer to the pump and either used a short rubber hose between pump and regulator or steel line & 2 short rubber hoses. Then use steel line out of regulator to carb again using short rubber hoses. You want to keep the rubber hose used as short as you can because when it dries out (not if) you have more of it that can leak and spray gas all over a hot engine and start a fire. When I was drag racing NHRA has a limit of 1 foot TOTAL for rubber hose used on cars for a reason and I try and stick to it on all my builds. Other wise looking good. Dave ----

Now you know what we go thru when trying to restore an AMC Its all good I just wanted to let others know what years of AMC's used them if they where to ever see some in a JY to get a box from. Dave ----

Thanks I will check it out and need to measure what I have. I member said he was going to send me some "blocks", I think they are the manifolds for the factory compressor the hoses screw to. If so I can then see what path I want to take on the compressors & hoses. Thanks for the information Dave ----

AMC started using the box in 76 and think it was used till the end in 1988. I know my 75 AMC has the Prestolite system and a 76 I had had the box. I don't know what my sons YJ Jeep had, may have been the box? but I know he also wired in a GM module and kept the box as a back up. At the time I was into AMC's I did not know of this crank / retard timing or what the color of the plugs were so I cant say it the AMC boxes had the "dial back" or not? Dave ----

See that is why "if it aint broke don't fix it" works so well So much so the box on mine has been leaking a sticky goo as I was building it but it keeps working so it stays. I should take the spare box off the other fender and throw it behind the seat just in case I guess The only problem I have is if it sits for a few days, 2 or more, and it is a little warm as it is in my house garage I have to crank it a little more than I like. I am also still learning what it likes to start at different temps like in the garage. That is all part of the joy of old car & truck motors that run carbs. Dave ----

That was the plan before you even posted this. I still have the drier & orifice valve in place it just the other end that is really open and it has been protected this whole time. Oh the system was holing psi till I got it as they took the York off the motor bracket and set it on the inner fender. Dave ----

Hi Dave, The switch to sanden was 82 (says Rockauto) and the switch to another hose routing 83:nabble_anim_crazy: there 3 versions to the drier. 80-81 with York 82 with Sanden 83- with Sanden and new hose routing near firewall You must use the drier thats fits to your evaporator. I have the combination 80-81 drier and 83 hose, it fits but the hose lays are on the aircleaner. The hoses direct screw into the compressor fitting, no other part is needed if you have the correct compressor. You must look for a version with the two fittings. I've found one for 50 bucks new on ebay. I hope it works and is no junk. Yes, i made the adaptor self, it was not a big issue, just two u-steel are needed and the original bracket from the York . http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n60257/Klima.jpg The amazon bracket plate will also fit. Did I understand correctly that you don't have an AC bracket because of the conversion to the Saginaw P / S pump? Max Lets see how I can answer this. All the AC parts I have came from my 81 parts truck that was less motor so some of the brackets I don't have. I only have the compressor bracket that bolts to the bottom of the compressor not the motor side for the York. I do have the Ford type P/S pump but cant remember if I have all the brackets (don't think so) so cant use it on my motor. The motor that came in my truck had the Saginaw P/S pump and works great and has a new Blue top box so I will not open this system as it works so good. Because of the P/S pump I had and lack of AC brackets a member found a full set of Sanden AC compressor brackets think from an 84 300 six. At the time (years ago) I did not know what all needed to be done to make a working system. So what you have is a adaptor plate between the York motor bracket and the Sanden compressor. It sounds like what you have done would work for me but I don't know if the compressor you have will bolt to my Sanden factory brackets. I need to get my mounts together so I can measure it to see what I have and if you can measure yours I will know if I can use the same compressor you did. Thanks for your help Dave ----

On the slapper bars is why I said he had to add the retainer over the spring to keep them from doing that. Thanks on the AMC Javelin the 12" longer brother to the AMX One day I will get it running again now that I live closer to a track. Dave ----

Max, I will have to look up the parts you listed but that is a do able option. On the compressor where the hoses screw to is that part of the compressor or fittings that bolt on like the stock compressors? Also if I under stand you right you went with the 82> drier? I thought it was the same as the 81 as the switch to the Sanden compressor was in 83>? Thanks for the information. Dave ---- Max, I got another question? In the picture that compressor is it mounted to the old York brackets with an adaptor? I know there are adaptor brackets for this swap and why I ask. When I looked up the compressor SD7H15 (7H15) it looks to be for a 85+ Jeep and others I just don't know if it will bolt up to the factory Sanden mounts. Dave ---- edit: I think the Sanden number you posted is for the York to Sanden adaptor plate so I found on Amazon.

Max, I will have to look up the parts you listed but that is a do able option. On the compressor where the hoses screw to is that part of the compressor or fittings that bolt on like the stock compressors? Also if I under stand you right you went with the 82> drier? I thought it was the same as the 81 as the switch to the Sanden compressor was in 83>? Thanks for the information. Dave ----

Yes & no on the system being open. The condenser is new and been installed on the truck and has had the caps in place this whole time. Hoses, think only 2, have been in 1 of my storage bins for the last 5 years when I took the truck apart. I don't have a compressor yet. That brings up to the evap. & drier. Yes this has been left open but I don't see that being too big an issue. The drier & orifice valve will be replaced and when a vacuum is pulled on the system it should take care of anything in the evap. I did think of replacing the coil but I hate to be leaning over the fender that was painted not long ago and could scratch it. The other thing is would the newer coil fit my HVAC box? I think Rock Auto listed sizes but I did not dig that deep into it. Thanks for the information. Dave ----

IT is a tuff call and you are the only one that can answer that. As for the heat tins on the under side. I did not have them from the flare side but had the longer ones from the LB style side. I was able to trim I think it was the front one shorter to fit them back on the now SB under sideand it looks factory. Dave ----

Back ground: 81 F100 300 six with factory AC that came with a York compressor. I did not have all the brackets for the York compressor and the truck had a Saginaw P/S pump on the motor. Because of the P/S pump and needing brackets for a compressor I went with smaller Sanden brackets and this may come back to bite me. Here is the question, has anyone done this swap before? What did you have to do to get this all to work? I have done a little more checking as of late and I am sure the 81 York hoses will not work with the Sanden compressor as I think they run a different way. I can get new hoses but I think where 1 screws to the drier is a different size fitting? I then was thinking I need to change the drier why not go for the 83/84 drier and think this also has different fittings and will not screw to my 81 evap. as checking them between years does show different fittings, did not check on evap. size between the years. So if I am partly right and I need to run the 83/84 hoses and they will not screw to the drier what would you do? Someday soon I will get the Sanden compressor and the 2 manifolds so I know hose thread size ans can see just what is needed to get a working AC system. Thanks Dave ----

Here is a picture of the wiring for my factory radio This is the back of the clock but the wire colors do not match my 81 trucks wires as that clock is for a later year truck Clock truck wires for 81 is LG / Y = hot all the time LB / R = dash lights W / P = ACC / Hot in run BK = ground The clock has a BR (brown) that gets hooked to running lights and think I hooked it to the dash lights? Dave ----

What radio do you have installed, one of them fancy LED display types? I have not looked or traced out the factory wiring but the way I can see a modern radio hooked up is like this. Power all the time - fused either to the fuse box or battery to keep stations in memory and time. Acc and Run - this turns on the main power to the radio or powers it up. You can have it wired to have power in run and not when in ACC but if you want to listen to the radio and motor off the ICM has power going to it when not running and this is not good. Wire from dash lights - think this is the blue/red wire. This will control the dimming of the display. Ground - as it says goes to ground. The factory radio I cant see needing power all the time as it does not keep stations in memory or time. You sure you are not looking at the clock wires that is above the radio? IIRC this will have power to it all the time, power when running / ACC, and dash light dimming. Dave ----

Just be warned if you are going to be using slapper bars make sure the rubber snubber hits under the front spring eye bolt or you could end up bending the main spring. This is hard to find depending on how long the springs are from center to the front eye bolt. Any traction bar you add will hang lower unless you can find or make something to come off the top of the axle housing to the front spring bolt. You also have to watch out for the front of the slapper bars dropping down and digging into the ground when letting off the throttle. Some bars have a "U bolt" type deal the goes over the spring to the front with about 1" gap between spring and U bolt, and bolts to the slapper bar to keep it from dropping down to low and digging in. Rules for drag racing say you must run this limit on slapper bars. Now you did not say what you want them for? Is it to stop wheel hop when on the street or are you racing the truck as in drag racing? If drag racing you running brackets so the number has to be vary close for each run in order to keep racing? Do you want something that you can adjust for when the track traction changes? If so look into Cal-trac traction bars https://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html I have them on my drag car running M/T 9" slick and they work great. I was at 1 track that was vary greasy and could feel it in my 13 sec car even shifting into 2nd gear (auto) and heard others in much faster cars say the same thing and may not run it was so bad. I made a little change, they made big changes, and the traction came right back. They don't hang that low so if I wanted to I could drive on the street with them but being a drag only car that will not happen. Sorry I don't have a good picture of them on the car, 2 different tracks. Dave ----

If I listened to my mate all the time I would be driving a newer $10,000+ truck than my flare side. Happy I did not listen then See I cant see doing the outside and leaving the bed floor "then looking like crap" but that's me. All or nothing and as you know I am for the "ALL" way I hear you on what FORD should have done back then. Why did they ever put one 16 gallon gas tank on the flare sides? Love that I added the 19 gallon rear tank and everything is from a factory truck so when parts are needed, other than the age, I should be able to find them. On the bed floor I do like a nice looking wood floor but cant really put anything in the bed with out hurting the wood. The metal floor that I also used from a factory bed floor is great as I can throw things in the bed and not worry about hurting the wood floor. I do worry about scratching the inside of the bed walls so I just be extra careful. Only modern type of thing I did was put the driving / fog lights in the front bumper. Factory did not do this till many years later but it makes the front of the truck much cleaner looking than having lights above or below the bumper. Dave ----

It is looking good. I hear you on the sun & heat! My garage (wood stick built) is not insulated in the bay area, work room has a ceiling that is insulated you enter the garage thru, and when you step into the bays you can feel the heat coming down from the roof. Makes you just want to turn around, close up and not do any work. To insulate I would need to put them Styrofoam vent bays between the rafters before the glass insulation goes in. Working between the support rafters to fit the bays & glass is a lot more work than I want to do at this point in my life so I deal with it when I have to. Dave ----

Most of the time I would and have done this but in this case I am going from a big square York compressor used on earlier cars & trucks to a small round Sanden compressor used on later cars & truck. Some where around 82 or 83 Ford did the switch from York to Sanden and think after 86 they went with the serp belt. I am sure the hoses are different on how they hook to the compressor and I don't have issues getting new hoses. Where the question comes in is the dryer end as I think where it hooks is in a different location. Now this might be able to be over come by using the dryer that works with the hose but will that dryer hook to the Epav coil? I think the only way I will know is to get a compressor, the 2 manifolds that bolt onto it (they don't come with the compressor) and then see if the hoses I have from the York compressor will work or not. If not then will have to get hoses and then see about the dryer. I know I should do this soon as we have had temps in the mid to upper 80's already. Dave ----

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-ACCY-SLIDING-CAB-STEP-1980-1990-F150-F250-F350-BIG-BRONCO-EOTZ-9920092-A/264058081967?epid=1123983146&hash=item3d7b1692af:g:ApIAAOSwEVtb-Xl9 Thanks but think I am forgoing the steps on my truck just will not look right on the flare side. Dave ----

Every morning between 1am to 3am it is cool driving to work. I don't have over drive with my 300 six but you are dead on how it runs, pulls and drives. For music in the truck it is a local radio station but the other night coming home from work they were playing 80's @ 8, some good 80's music to go with an 80's truck. I do spend a little more on gas than you and most do at fill ups of a flare side, I have 2 tanks LOL Last 3 weekends taking the trash to the dump I have had guys say what a nice looking truck I have. That does make all the hard work worth it. Dave ----

The steps are used on the later year trucks and have not heard of them getting hung up on anything. Then again maybe it has to do with the way they look on a flare side as the style side is flat down the whole side? Even if I have a running board or step I still have to help her in as I don't have or plan on adding grab handles. Then again she has grab handles for me to help her in with Thanks on the brackets I had a hard time finding my square drill bit for the square holes Dave ----

Ray, they are from North Carolina but had been sitting outdoors up here the past couple years. It's just surface rust...they cleaned up very nicely. Even rusty, they're "Mint" compared to what they look like up here. I have since painted them black, but they were like were like new under the brown scuzz...lol. So if the later years have the sway bar bracket cast as part of the spring mount wonder if they can be used in place of what came on our trucks? I also then wonder if the front bolt in cross member the bar mounts to will also fit our trucks? My 81's were not drilled for a sway bar mounting. That would open a larger door to be looking for the parts. For the rear bar it would still need to be for a 9" for us that run the 9" but I think after market would be easier to come by for the rear than the front. Dave ----

I was thinking of running boards like this, not for me but the wife as I need to carry a folding step when she rides in the truck, but I don't like the look of it now. I also don't think the "hoop" type would look good either. I also could not find this type board cheap. \ A while back I lost 1 of the AC compressor brackets off the motor bracket. At work we have a "scrap trailer" they use to make dump runs and I have been checking it for scrap I could use to make a new bracket. I came across a thick sheet of alum that would work. Sunday it was time to make the new bracket or brackets. If making 1 how much harder is it to make 2 and they have to match, cant have 1 alum and the other steel. I think it took longer to cut the 2 parts from the sheet using my air saw than doing the rest of the work. The black one is the factory part. Still need to get the compressor, the 2 manifolds the hoses go on to, maybe some hoses as I don't know what I have will fit as I am changing types of compressors and a few other little things. Dave ----

My behind the seat storage uses Velcro to hold it to the back wall. I bought 1" x 20' roll and cut 8 pieces - 4 for the top and 4 on the bottom of about 4" long it's not going anywhere! I guess could use Velcro on the mounting bracket to the truck so you would not need to drill holes. Dave ----