FuzzFace2

Thanks guy, I have 3 AMC's 2 really as I think 1, factory v8 Gremlin, is a little to far gone with rust but would like to transplant the v8 drive train into another small body car like a Hornet or Sprit. Move away for a few years and everything changes, yes would like to know what is going in there. No pictures needed seen 1 building knocked down you seen them all LOL Towing is big buss. down that way. You have the light duty (small trucks) has 1 list each for city & state then you have the heavy duty for the state IIRC. Been a while since I talked to Billy jr (RIP) & Bobby parker from Bill's Service. My son talked to their kids more than I did. They are family, when Bill sr. was in Glenbrook on Hope St. I would help dad paint the tow trucks when he got a new one. They were red & white with gold booms, now it is hard to read who they belong to as they have so much other stuff on them. Dave ----

Ester it is as I don't know what oil is in the compressor and if I end up using some of the old hose it could have some on it also. Would you know how much is needed with a new condenser, flushed evap and some that leaked out of the pump? I did find it would take 2.5 to 3 can 12oz cans to charge the system that has been under a vacuum to check for leaks and remove any moisture. I think right now the hardest part will be getting hoses that will work between the 2 systems. Old hose don't fit the new pump, new hoses on order so will see if they fit when I get them. Thanks Dave ----

I think there is a box that wires from the speedo sender (wires at transmission?) goes into under the dash. This should tell the OD unit you are going over think it is 30 MPH and the GV OD can then be used. This box also has the lockout for when you are in 4x4 so you cant used OD, and the brake & clutch switches also get wired into it to stop OD when the clutch or brakes are hit. Could not tell you what this box looks like or the wire colors used for what function. Advance Adapter's OD does not have wires to it Dave ----

Was that flare side bed swapped on that truck from a style side? I ask because I don't think I have ever seen a flare side with moldings before? Nice looking truck Dave ----

The vice sure looks good on the bench and I think if it was to pull the bench over the wall would come with it as I am sure they are bolted together. A truck was not built in a day Besides what would I work on if the AC was working Bills always looked closed when I went by it and I would get my gas at Getty next door on the corner. From what I was told they bought that building so they could get on the towing list for the town. I think it also gave them a second time on the state tow list, first shot was from the Stamford buildings. Is that the Stop & Shop that is rubble or Palmer's? When the wife worked in NY we would shop at S & S most of the time. You know what they are going to build there? Dave ----

I am getting AC parts to get my F100 system working again. I have a new condenser, used Sanden compressor (marked 85 F150), going to flush the evap., new dryer & orifice valve (blue I think) and not sure on hoses if new or used or combo of both? So what oil do I add to the system PAG or Ester? If PAG what flavor 46, 100 or 150? How much oil with just a used compressor and the rest either new or flushed out? When would the oil be added and where? Pull a vacuum and suck it in or pour it in a open hose before a vacuum is pulled? And maybe the last question how much R134A would it take? I know it should be weighed but if doing this all at home I would not have access to a scale so wing it with cans and gauges. Then again I may get everything in place and if I cant get a vacuum pump may farm the charging out so would not really need to know then. Thanks guys in advance Dave ----

Picked up from the junk yard a AC compressor, one step closer to having AC in the truck The yard did not have the hoses or the used dryer as I wanted them to see if they would work with the rest of my system. My old York hoses don't fit the new compressor but do fit the truck. So I am looking up hoses and other needed parts to make it whole again and hope the hoses will fit. If not going to have to find someone to make up new hoses. I hit the hardware store for bolts for the compressor and test fitted the brackets I made, I lost one a while back, and they fit. I also picked up screws for the sun visors and got them mounted. Also the strip across the top of the windshield in place. I hope when I get a good pair of pillar moldings I can install without needing to remove the top strip. Not to the truck but in the garage. A few weeks ago I broke the bench vice, it was kind of small but better than nothing. So I picked up a nice 5" that turns & swivels and can hold pipe from Northern Tool. Because it was bigger the old bolts and holes would not work so had to dig thru my bolt & nut bins for hardware. I also had to clean a 1/4 of the bench to mount it, now if I can just keep it clean LOL Dave ----

Good to hear it is fixed. Now take one down (question) and pass it around (in a new post out in the main area) so we can fix the next issue and you will then have 998 questions (on the wall) Dave ----

Ok so here it's almost a month later do we have any up dates? What color orifice did you use? Did you add any oil to the system and if so what type and how much? I also take it you charged it with 134A? Hope you don't mind a high jack: I am also getting AC parts to get my F100 system working again. I have a new condenser, used Sanden compressor (marked 85 F150), going to flush the evap., new dryer & orifice valve (blue I think) and not sure on hoses if new or used or combo of both? So what oil do I add to the system PAG or Ester? If PAG what flavor 46, 100 or 150? How much oil with just a used compressor and the rest either new or flushed out? When would the oil be added and where? Pull a vacuum and suck it in or pour it in a open hose before a vacuum is pulled? And maybe the last question how much R134A would it take? I know it should be weighed but if doing this all at home I would not have access to a scale so wing it with cans and gauges. Then again I may get everything in place and if I cant get a vacuum pump may farm the charging out so would not really need to know then. / high jack Thanks guys in advance Dave ----

Maybe not Sept if early could be 84 as this is when new models came out/ Nov would be a 85model year. I have a 11/80 that makes it an 81 year truck as the wiring I have looked up also matches it. What color are the wires and from what month truck? Dave ----

All this talk of tombstones and cutting wires, removing ballast and rewiring I think is more work than I want to put into changing them all out. Dave ----

Good luck on the broken bolt. I think I would look into a plastic welding kit and weld it back up. I have used https://www.plastex.net/on other plastics but think it will also work on this too. Dave ----

Good thing they spotted that tire before really getting started. Took the truck to work this morning as it was some what cool at 1am and would be home around 7am before the heat. Truck run great for the 70+ mile round trip. Stayed at 65 MPH the best I could turning about 1700 RPM Did take it to 70 MPH and was turning about 1900 RPM I figure 75 MPH a little over 2000 RPM and I would have still been passed! I will get a full break down of MPH / RPM some day. Readings are in OD Dave ----

Dave, Rear bar is in front of the rear axle and has a curve that goes up and over the rear diff. See below. The bar's and the end links are all the same...all that changed were the brackets that mount to the axle tubes, and I'm sure you could modify the 8.8 brackets to fit the 9" rear (or simply fabricate new brackets). Cory, Thanks for the picture, yours and Bill both go in front where the link shows it behind. The link also did not come from a pick up so wonder if that has something to do with it? I am also guessing Bill's bars a bigger being they came off a 250 where I think yours were off a Bronco? or 150 pick up. Dave ----

For the temp gauge you can also get a fitting that goes in the radiator hose to add the sender to. It is made just for this, maybe Summit or Speedway Motors. Only thing I think could be an issue is if electric gauge grounding the sender. Depending on what hose you use could have the same issues as if it was in the stat housing Dave ----

Thanks for the reply. They do look like the same as used on the 100/150 trucks and why I asked if they also came from the truck the bars came from. Dave ----

Dave, You can install front and rear swaybars from any other F150 right up until 1996. They literally bolt right in. I know you could make the 8.8 brackets fit a 9" without any issue (or just make new brackets). By comparison, you will find way WAY more swaybars on the 1987-1996 trucks than you ever will on a Bullnose. Next time I'm at Chris's place we could pull a swaybar off an 8.8 and see how close the brackets will fit on a 9" rearend. I know he has that stuff laying around. Cory, That would be nice to know for the members wanting to do F/R sway bars, I would like to know too I do have a question for you as I think you have F/R bars does the rear bar go in front of or behind the housing and if behind how much room ..... I forget no rear tank on your truck. Still like to know where it goes. Why I want to look more into this because of this in the link he said more stabile feel, especially at freeway speeds. Road bumps no longer feel like they will throw the truck into the next lane And that is kind of what my truck feels like when you hit a bump at speed, bump steer, but I cant see the factory letting the trucks go with it? I know where most of the bumps are on the way to work and good think it is vary early and not a lot of people out or they would think I was DWI moving around to miss the bumps Dave ----

Did the front beam / spring mount part also come from the 250? The 250 bars might be a little to large for a 100 / 150 but is nice to know the newer bars could work. The rear bar pictures don't all show up but it looks like the bar goes in front of the axle and not behind like the other or did I see either one wrong? Thanks Dave ----

Bump but using newer bars and wonder if this could be done on ours? His rear axle looks to be a 9" but I think what he pulled the bars from had a 8.8 rear? I don't know if the front tires clear the bar or not also wonder if this setup could work on ours? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1629126-added-sway-bars-to-my-bump.html edit to add from the above link "I found a late 90s Ford Expedition with front and rear bars " Dave ----

Welcome to the forum Doug or you like Douglas? I am not one that can flip the switch but I am sure someone will be by soon. As for the no power under the hood where the + battery cable hooks to the solenoid there should be some smaller gauge wires there also. The smaller wires should be what is called fuse links. They act just like a fuse and blow if the load is too great but can take a spike and not blow. When the solenoid get stuck, this is somewhat common and a hit with something can sometimes stop it, you can get a back feed that blows the fuse link. I have found if you try and bend the wires, 1 at a time, in a arc if it had blown it will make a sharp bend. You can also take a test light or meter and start at the solenoid and work your way up the wire so see if it get power all the way to where it connects to a normal wire at the harness. You can buy replacements at the parts stores. Dave ---- ps they will ask if you want to be placed on a members map it is up to you if you want to be added or not.

When I lived it CT we had a scrap yard not far from me and they had some. I don't know where they got it from but I took all they had, 1 part was new they had hidden away. It's base board heating fin tube. I would think you could get it at any of the large hard ware box stores like Home Depot, Lowes, etc. and the last place would be plumbing supply as it would be $$. You don't need the cover just the fin tube. First I would never use PVC and I don't care if they been using it forever NOT ME! Some use steel pipe but you can have issues with this. You would need to cut & thread it to fit where you want so not easy to work with, unless you have a plumber buddy. It has oil inside from when made to keep from rusting and threading. And the rust when you get water inside it will rust, so I don't like steel piping. Also what do you use to mount it? Copper is ok but I thought it would be to much $$ for all I needed then add fittings and it was more $$ Then you had to have a torch to solder it and don't burn down the garage and then what do you use to mount it? A shop I had with dad had copper air lines. I have not heard of PEX so could not say good or bad but if they say not for air I most likely not use it for air. The max line is a kit that has everything. Tool for cutting and cleaning the ruff edges, fittings other than for air hose cupplings, and has the hangers. You will need a tape measure, 2 large wrenches for the fittings (I used large adjustable wrenches), marker to mark where you want to cut the line and to mark the fittings to know how tight to go. The hangers use a nail so a hammer for them. The only thing I was worried about was the temp it can work in. Like you in SC it gets hot here in NC and I don't have AC. I have seen the temp in my garage at 98* the other day and I had all the doors open so how knows how hot with them down? But so far I have only had 1 failure and that was from me not tightening a fitting. I also turn off the compressor when I shut the garage down. I would hate a line or hose let go and the compressor running for days or weeks, if it would last that long, till I got out there to do something. It was something we did at the shop too. I know small 1 car garages! This is what I had in CT. To work on a side I had to push it to the wall on the other side. I could not push it out into the drive as my car trailer was there and it could not be parked on the street not hooked to something. You can just make out the compressor in front of the car between the 2 shelves. Below is a close up of the compressor and how I had the air dryer bolted to the side of the shelf. When I first started using the dryer I was getting water out the hose and could not figure why? When I got back to the compressor / dryer it was like 200*! No air flow back there. I opened a small window and put a box fan on the shelf and no more water out hose. That is why when I painted the truck I used a box fan to blow across the fin tube just to make sure it would cool the compressed air. Just my thinking on the compressed air system Dave ----

It looks like it is meant to go over carpet as it has the little nibs to keep it from moving. It is nice but the price is almost half what I paid for my truck Dave ----

Well here's hoping I shimmed it enough, if not I can shim it more because of the way I put it back together. Dave ----

The water was why I did the fin tube right out of the compressor tank to help cool the air and drop the water out at the start. The other day I was getting a little water out my hose and found a little water at the hose drip leg. I need to go around and check them all and the tank also. I have only been turning on the compressor to blow dust off me or a part and then turning it off so I have not checked the drip legs in some time. When I sprayed the truck I had no issues with water but I had a fan blowing across the fin tube dryer. I also forgot to put a filter on the gun but I was ok just bugs and a little dirt when the cheap air blew. Dave ----

You guys put a mojo on me Sunday when in the garage I saw I have 4 lights together out, cant remember if it is 1 or 2 ballast for that light and I got 1 bulb out on another. And of course it is between the 2 bays and not at the wall of the bay I don't use. I guess not bad for 5 years and the temp can get up pretty high during the summer and cold in the winter and that cant be good for the bulbs or ballast. Dave ----