FuzzFace2

Garbage truck that there is funny! But you are right I bought it to do weekly garbage runs and wanting AC swapping the firewalls. Funny it started with AC & the firewall swap and ends with the AC working. Yes you see that right! I had to add a total of 5 - 12oz cans of Freon to get it to blow cold. On the test drive I had to kick the fan back to mid setting and I like that. The next project I have on the truck is wire in the electric trailer brake controller and wire up the 7 spade trailer light connection. The 7 spade and the Tee with flat 4 for the lights, flat 4 will be cut off and wired to the 7 spade, are already on the truck. I have a 7 spade to flat 4 adaptor I will keep in the truck if I tow a flat 4 trailer hook up. A project is never done Dave ----

I stopped at 3 because that was all the cans I bought the first round and because I thought I seen it posted 2.5 cans is what it took. After messing with the system and understanding how it all works then seeing the charts it gave me something to go by. That is why I did the 2.5 cans of freon as that is what I had to go by. Dave ----

The hot water did cross my mind but I don't think there is that much left in either can to even fuss with but I will recheck. I did pick up 2 more cans of Freon and a vacuum check valve. When climbing a hill or heavy on the gas the AC vent goes to defrost. I knew the check valve was bad not I have to fix it. Thanks guys for all the help. Dave ---- WE ARE CHILLING! First I have to say thank you for all the help to get this working. All readings are on the low side of system as I don't have the adaptor for the high side. When I first checked static PSI it was 88 PSI @ 90*F and by the chart should be up around 104 - 114 PSI When running, fan on high, RPM @ idle, large fan in front of condenser I had like 45 PSI, chart said 50 - 55 PSI. I used a bucket of hot water on the cans and even emptied the 2 that had a little still in them. The 3 first can did not bring it up to the 50 - 55 PSI so added a 4th and still not so a 5th went in. That got it up to 58 PSI at idle and at about 2000 RPM came down to the 50 - 55 PSI reading. Also when you unscrew the low side hose, some Freon comes out so I would say I am at 55 PSI. So 5 - 12oz cans of Freon & 8oz to 10oz of Ester oil was needed to get my system working. Oh an not too soon as the front fan, front / rear system, in the Durango stopped working this morning when I got in it at 1am to go to work. I have replace the resister for the fan like 3 time & the pig tail to it once because it melted but the fan always worked on high. I hope the pig tail melted and why the fan does not work. I don't know where the fan motor is and what it would take to replace it? Thanks again Dave G

Static I would have never guess that. When I hook the gauges back up I will check to see where mine compares. Now the chart that Gary posted of 50-55 on the low side I can say I am below that so fingers crossed a little more Freon and I will be frozen inside. The hot water did cross my mind but I don't think there is that much left in either can to even fuss with but I will recheck. I did pick up 2 more cans of Freon and a vacuum check valve. When climbing a hill or heavy on the gas the AC vent goes to defrost. I knew the check valve was bad not I have to fix it. Thanks guys for all the help. Dave ----

Question on the chart. The psi for a given temp I take it outside air temp and is it the high or low side psi? If high and you can't read the high side what can you do? Thanks Dave ----

I was flipping the can back n forth. The first can had a little left I think because the motor & pump were not running and felt empty when I undid it. The next can I also flipped motor & pump running and it was empty. 3rd can flipped motor & pump running and had a little less than the first can so I would say 2 and 3/4 cans went in. I did forget to close a valve when removing a hose but a vary small bit came out. I questioned the valve. when I went to install it and I found it would only go in one way. I also made sure it was in all the way. At 1 point when filling I saw frost where the valve is but after more freon went in no more frost. Thanks Dave ----

Thanks on the truck. It was just to be a truck to make weekly trash run to the dump but when I went to patch some holes that had patches already I had to start from scratch and snowed balled from there. Yes you do see some AMC stuff. I have 2 - 1970 Javelins: 1 a 1/4 mile drag car I built in a small 1 car garage back in CT. Have not raced it for too many years and would need to go thru everything before hitting the track again. Car has a 360 / TH400 from a Jeep 4.56 Detroit locker out back. The other is my street car project. I was trying to get it on the road for my 50th b,day and that did not happen 10 years ago. Under hood has been done, dash restored with custom gauges that look factory stock, and silver carbon fiber over lay that also looks factory till you look close. Body work is done on the nose and both doors. Working on flush mounting the front & rear glass then do body work to the roof & from the doors on back. The car has a 360 and T5 5sp, was a 390 / 4sp car from the factory. I also have a 1975 factory v8/auto Gremlin that is mostly stock. I have a Holley 500 cfm v2 carb, shift kit in the trans and a lock right locker in the rear. I was drag racing it & driving it on the street before the drag car was done. The New England winters has done the body in and if I come across another small body AMC I will swap all the v8 parts over to it. Yea I was into the ACM's pretty big before this pick up truck LOL Dave ---- Little up date: I got the right water pump pulley and get it installed, it was 1" smaller dia. then the one I removed. The belt I thought was to small (117585) was for the 84-86 trucks and even with the smaller WP pulley was still to small had to go a little bigger (17600). I picked up a gauge set & vacuum pump from HF. I did the pump only because I got thinking the loner most likely went thru hell so went new. Today we pulled a vacuum and after some sweating of a leak, did not have valve open all the way and a hose leak, it held 28 HG for and hour+ then pulled more vacuum as I did something else. I had to wire the pump clutch and run a ground from it. I used a weather pack plug because of it sitting on the from of the motor. But mow that I think of it I could have used butt connectors as the pump has a plug on it oh well. I added 2.5 12oz cans of 134a and it blows cool but not cold. Gauge low side was about 45 psi / 50 134a, could not hook up the high side. Few people say it needs more gas get it up to about 60 so need to get another can of 134a and see if that helps. I also need to find and install a check valve between the vacuum can on the fender well and supply because when ever I give it gas the vent door moves from AC to defrost. Dave ----

That 9" looks to be a LS type. I think I would clean them up and just check the bearings and call it done. If the bearings look bad then I would replace them. On the rear axles IIRC the bearings need to pressed off & on and maybe to get to the seals? I think a lot has to do with how much work do you want to put into this winter project and not have a frame to put them under? Dave ----

Someone else also said the same thing. When I asked about how much charge it was listed as 2.5 cans and was afraid to add more. I may need to pick up 1 more can and see if they have the needed adaptor for the high side just so I can see what it is at. Thanks Dave ----

I did check and neither spade went to ground so I wired 1 spade hot and the other to ground and it worked. Thanks Dave ---- Well I don't know if I have a good or bad charge? When I first started the vacuum pump it pulled down 10 HG so I let it set for 10 min. while I did other things and lost vacuum? Did it 1 more time and was like WTH! Went over some fittings, rechecked the gauge valves and think I did not have it open all the way and in no time pulled down to 28 HG. This time when I turned off the pump I pulled the line off the pump and put it on the gauge set. This time it held 28 HG for over an hour so called it good. Put the pump back on while I did the electrical side of this install and it pulled down to 30 HG by the time I pulled it off a few hours later. I could not hook up the high side of the gauge as it needs an adaptor so I have no reading on that side. I put 1 12oz can in with the motor off as the vacuum pulled it in. I started the motor and the pump was going on & off a sign of low charge. 2nd can the pump stayed on all the time as did the 3rd can. I did not add the full 3rd can only about half. When done it was blowing cool but not cold. Gauge at idle reads about 45 psi and 50 on the R134 and when you bring the RPM up it drops but did not see to what. It was 100* in the garage and with a IR temp gun was getting 69* out of the vent with fan on high. As said it blows cool but not cold and does not feel like it gets colder when driving. You can feel it is cooler inside the truck when you get in as I did a trash run. As I was charging the system I did not feel the vents blowing any colder than they do now like when I saw frost on the evap at the orifice valve area, also a sign of low charge IIRC. I am using a blue orifice valve should it have been a different color? I was told that would be good. So what do I need to do to get it colder? I would think as small as the cab is I should get frozen out. What did I miss? Dave ----

I did check and neither spade went to ground so I wired 1 spade hot and the other to ground and it worked. Thanks Dave ----

Thank you I don't know why I did not think to use a meter to see if 1 side was grounded all ready I think what is throwing me off is the replacement pig tail has pink & tan wires but what I found and you are showing list the B - Y H wire and not what the pig tail has. Guess they could use any color wire to make it? Thanks again Dave ----

I have a question on wiring the compressor. The York uses 1 wire, B - Y H and plugs into 1 wire on the York. This new Sanden has a 2 wire plug, think Pink & Tan. My question is, does it make a difference what wire I use to power the clutch and the other to ground? Think this is the last thing needed before I can start to charge the system. I did look up the wiring for a 85 and it showed the B - Y H 1 wire setup. Thanks Dave ----

Getting closer to having AC in the truck. Today was work on the truck day. In swapping the pulley I found the fan only had 3 bolts holding it on so had to make a trip to the hardware store so I replace all 4 bolts. Got the ALY & PS belts back on but needed to get the AC belt for it as I returned the belt I had because it did not fit the smaller pulley that was on the wrong pulley. BTW the right pulley was 1" smaller dia. (6") than the wrong one (7"), I don't know what that will do for cooling both the motor & condenser? I then flushed the evap coil. I could not find the $50 flush kits local and no one has rubbing alky. with this virus going around so I used Prep Sol. It is used in body work to prep panels before any work & painting to rid panels of oil and leave nothing behind. What came out was clean just a little tint from oil that was it. I also passed a lot of air thru it to make sure it was clear of the Prep Sol. Then figured how much oil to add to each part of the system and added it to each part. Ever try and pour oil into a small line? Not fun at all. I put oil on the O-rings and installed all the hoses so I should have a sealed system if all is right. With tools in hand I went for the AC belt, first tried the one I returned (17585) thinking with the 1" smaller dia. it may work and it did not still to small. Then tried a 17620 and it was to big, had to go with a 17600 and was able to get it tight right there in the parking lot. May try pulling a vacuum tonight just so I know the system is sealed but it is damn hot in the garage even with the fan blowing. Yesterday I picked up a gauge set and vacuum pump from HF. Dave ----

Joe, I hear you on the heat wave we have it here too. When not driving a truck I am out side pulling hoses and watching gauges as I off load. 14 to 16 hr days I come home soaked and totally drained. Out the door at 3am and not home till 3pm the last thing I wanted to do is go out to my even hotter garage to work on my trucks AC. Scott, I know the new one I got was for r134a and already had the 3oz of pag46 in it. It had all 4 ports open. Really curious on if the manufacturer has an explanation. On the oil fill I have a question In a post up farther the total is 10 oz. 3 oz evap coil 1 oz condenser dump dryer and measure the amount and add 1 oz. So between the pump & dryer that leaves 6 oz and yo usay your pump came with 3oz in it so that would make 3 oz in the dryer if I did the math right. Does that sound right? Thanks Dave ----

On the bolt on manifolds that you have to swap to the new pump is both ports open or just the 1 side? I will have to see if my pump is a 1head or 2 head as I did not know to look for the seams. I don't want to remove the manifolds to see if both ports are open and if covered by them. I also want to thank you for posting how much oil to add as I have some new and flushed parts on my system. Dave ----

That is one of the things I miss is the fall colors we don't get anything like that around here. Now maybe a little more north / west in the mountains might have color but have not made it that far in the fall yet for work. Dave ----

To rich for my blood, besides if I did buy them I would have to move out to my garage and with no AC in this 90*+ days not going to happen. Oh no bath room either Dave ----

A little Googling brought me back some results... According to this thread, the engine should be between 1984-1986. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1208011-300ci-i6-engine-identification.html Not that it matters much, but I was just curious what era/version the engine was, in case there were any changes. I was just thinking if it was a EFI motor the manifolds have all the holes filled. IIRC when you put the EFI EXH manifolds on a non-EFI head the manifold has some empty holes. Now I am not sure if it is running non EFI manifolds & head as I don't remember back that far LOL Dave ----

No sir, not really, I'm just curious what year truck it was pulled from. My 3spd is long gone now. I sold it not long after removing it. I do have a spare 5spd, but it is a 2wd 5spd. I could still use it to crank the engine over I suppose. I may try that. Stupid question, but what way does the crank rotate if I get under there and try to turn it? It is clockwise right, looking at the front end of the crank...or CCW looking at the back end. I will pull the plugs tomorrow and see if it will move. The truck still has the SBF engine mounts in there, so if the 300 is bad it might end up with a 302...lol. From the bottom up how did they mount the 300 if the 302 parts are still in it? Is the motor just placed in there and not bolted down? I will have to check my truck on the direction it turns but to see if it will turn by hand I don't think it makes a difference. Could check the firing order on the cap and turn the motor and see what way the rotor turns to follow the firing order, 1-5-3-6-2-4. It is either that trans or a bell housing just to mount the starter so you could see if it runs. As for when it was made see if you can find the casting marks as it should list when it was casted. Then you know it was casted before the install date think they say 6 months to a year before. Dave ----

7" is not bad but 8" would have been better but we are talking car wheels Dave ----

LOL well I hit HF on the way home from work today and went for the gauge set, it looked to be the same as AZ set (gauges, quick connects & case) and was less $$, and got the vacuum pump as it came with oil. We can always use more tools LOL both came to $160 and change. I did not check on the gauges thru AZ but the more I got thinking of it, look who rents the tools and what they may go thru. Pumps run dry and had junk sucked up into it and guessing I would need to buy pump oil that they most likely don't sell. Gauges dropped who knows how many times. I also don't know when I might use them because of the heat down here and my work hours. Once I get going I don't like to stop, run down the street to rent, if they have any at the time, the equipment or they may not be open at that time. I may be going out to work on the truck at 2am when it is cool and I know AZ is not open then LOL

That looks to work a little better than mine but remember my master you cant see the level so I made a holding tank. The tank with fluid, the line from it to the master all has fluid and psi on it so when you remove it you et a mess IIRC I used see thru plastic hose into a glass bottle to see the air bubbles. I first did a gravity till I got fluid at each wheel. Then used my SnapOn vacuum bleeder that uses shop air. Then did the M. Jackson dance / bleed. And the last the PSI bleed. My system was also dry to start with as the best lines were taken from each truck, wheel cyl & calipers were new. Dave ----

Sorry to hear about your mom. My sister took care of the paperwork for mom & dad but I had to do the lifting & moved of dads things, mom was in a nursing home for years so we gave away here things us kids did not want but it was still a lot of work. CV wheels never gave that a thought and 16" to boot! How wide or the wheels, 6"? Dave ----

Do we know when they went to that style air filter over the tear drop type like I have on my truck? BTW I don't know what filter my 81 should of had as it had one of them 3" want to be air filter on it. Is there any motor paint color left on it? I was told the later years went with gray. Is there a EGR plate between the carb and intake? Does it make a difference what year it is as long as it runs good? When I went to look at mine it had a miss that did fire for a little bit on the test drive then missed again. One of the first things I did was a compression check and new plugs and the motor ran great. That is all I cared about and then pulled the whole truck apart LOL Oh my motor was also a swap in and in cleaning found gray paint so think newer than my 81 truck that think should have been blue. I say get it running, pop in your 3sp so you can move it under its own power and go from there. Oh wait need a rear drive shaft or a trans & transfer to do it right. Dave ----