FuzzFace2

Yes it is interesting and would have been nice to see it in action putting out a real fire. Now one thing to know about the dry chemical units is when installed in a car or truck as you drive down the road the vibrations pack the powder. Now when you go to use it all you get is the blast of air and no chemical because it is 1 big solid packed block. That is why every so often you should remove the unit and shake it up to break up that solid block. I do have to say I did buy a dry chem extinguisher and have not 1)removed it from the box, 2) have not shake it since I put it in the truck over a year now. I should do that later and check the 2 I have in my garage. I also could not find any 5lb in local stores guess you must have to go through a fire prevention store? Dave ---- I did Google the element and saw that and a few other videos on it. I tell you I cant see buying a 5# for a car / truck because of room to store it, the vibration of packing the chemical and now not for the garage because it can lose psi and be useless when needed. I do really like that extinguisher. Time to talk to the wife and have her order a few, spread over a few months, to put in the cars, garage and house. Thanks for pointing it out Dave ----

Yes it is interesting and would have been nice to see it in action putting out a real fire. Now one thing to know about the dry chemical units is when installed in a car or truck as you drive down the road the vibrations pack the powder. Now when you go to use it all you get is the blast of air and no chemical because it is 1 big solid packed block. That is why every so often you should remove the unit and shake it up to break up that solid block. I do have to say I did buy a dry chem extinguisher and have not 1)removed it from the box, 2) have not shake it since I put it in the truck over a year now. I should do that later and check the 2 I have in my garage. I also could not find any 5lb in local stores guess you must have to go through a fire prevention store? Dave ----

The other day I installed a AFR gauge but did not take it for a test drive till this morning and it has brought up some questions. When searching the WWW it gives 14.7 AFR as the magic number to shoot for. Is this a good number or should you go richer (lower number) or leaner (higher number)? The gauge has a outer ring that changes colors, green / yellow, as the numbers change and from what I can see the green/yellow is at 13.9/14.0 area so if I was to lean it out to get 14.7 it would be in the yellow not the green. I still need to check my timing and get that dialed in before messing with the carb but just the run to work, 37+ miles on the high way (65-70 MPH) the gauge was between 13.2 and 13.7 so an average of 13.5 in my book. Now holding the throttle steady on flat ground it was still bouncing around the above numbers is this some what normal? If I should leave it where its at, average 13.5, what else could be done to get the MPG up more than the mid 14's I am getting now? Its not like I am burning rubber at each light, 300 six, 2.75 rear gear and T18 is not a speedster, I also have over drive so the RPM is not killer high at the 65-70 MPH maybe 1800 RPM? I was really wishing for the AFR to be like in the 11's or 12'sand could say that is why the poor MPG. Dave ----

Now I am not one to just go replacing parts just because. After doing a few diff rebuilds, not because I wanted to, had to. I only replace if bad because of play or noise but that's me. If it is a 9" I would get a complete 3rd member with the gear ratio to match the front. It would come with new bearings and set up right so all you need to do is pop out your old member and pop this one in. Then all you would need to deal with would be axle bearings & seals. FIY as part of service on my 02 Durango the dealer found metal flakes in the oil when changing. They replaced the bearings as the gears looked good. When I got it back it was making a little noise a sign it was not set up right, it did not do this before the bearing swap. It went right back and they said they replace the center unit. Well it is making noise now but with 240K+ I am not going to worry about it as it would now coat me, the first was covered by Dodge. Dave ----

Yes so I miss what you were saying. I do have a question? How is that "new" wire getting power? I seen one of the connectors had a "jumper" between the 2 wires. Was that out of the working truck or pulled from the spare box and again where was it getting power from? Next time I am in my container with the wiring harness I will have to take a closer look at the back side of the box. Dave ----

What he said Its got to feel good putting stuff back on hopefully for good. Dave ----

Not really to you but I think you posted about a fuse tap in 1 of the posts and why I brought it up. I would not run 30 amps through the tap but the 2 things I am using it for, think it was a 20 amp fuse I pulled and needed to run a 10 amp fuse on the tap side. I used the ACC fuse in the box and don't think I have all that much on the truck side as it is a Custom model with vary little ACC LOL Just wanted to post it as an option is all. Dave ----

I know its old but you have to make sure its for a stick if that is what you are after as they are different for autos. You can also find them on the older pick up's too and most were sticks as that is where I got mine from. Dave ----

Why didn't you tell the wife that is why she was along for the ride, to hold your drink If I want to drink when driving my truck it is in a bottle so it can rest on the seat with my phone. Now if the wife and I go out to eat she holds my drink. Dave ----

That Hillborn is cool. Does it use pellets (jets) to adjust the AFR? Had a buddy run one on his sand dragster Jeep (chevy 350) many years ago. Ran it think 2 times and sold everything! Dave ----

Will the TKO hook to a transfer case or only 2WD? If you can I would go with the M5R2 in the 4x4 mode. I think Cory's in the 4x2 truck he found from someone selling it as a ZF5 and was in a F250 truck think with a 351. So it would work with a 300 six. When I knew I needed to do something with my T18 4x2 running a 2.75 rear gear and 29" tall tires with my 300 six, I wanted to go over drive also. Checking all over for a ZF5 and knowing if used most likely need a rebuild and no core for a rebuilt I was looking at $3000+ shipping. I would also need to come up with all the cross members, floor pan cover, switch to hydl. clutch and drive shaft. I was lucky and found someone selling a NP435, I like the granny first gear for pulling heavy loads like my car trailer, but still no over drive. After looking to add OD there was Gear Vender or Advance Adaptor, I went with AA as it was cheaper and can split all the gears to help pull heavy loads when needed. So far I love the AA OD, have not pulled any heavy loads yet, but most of the time I am only using it for OD but have split 3rd gear at times. I have since heard that AA has stopped making them, I got mine about a year ago. I don't know if it is because of the virus, I had to wait a long time for mine because of it, of they just don't have to volume needed to keep making them? So that only leaves the GV over drive to use at this time. Dave ----

Nice Dodge, I bet you have a lot harder time finding parts for it than the Ford LOL When I was a lot younger my dad had a Dodge 5 ton flat bed truck. From what I can remember looked like that style. I do remember he could not go vary fast because of the low gears out back. This is what I put on my front bumper I have had the guy at the local dump, use the truck for weekly trash runs, ask me what all I built. When I told him everything he was like what? Body off frame 4 year rebuild and did all the body work and paint too! I also now carry a photo book with pictures so they don't think I am lying! If shows ever start again I would love to have someone ask about the plate and show the pictures to. Dave ----

If you cant find the needed part what might be a better option is a full front suspension swap from a newer truck from a junk yard. Only thing to remember is when getting brake parts or ball joints the year the suspension is. Dave ----

Now that it is getting nice and people are getting their shots so they can travel why not up the gas price? They say it was because of the storms that hit Texas but we know they just want more money in their pockets! Dave ----

I want to say someone was making replacement center decals? Now if I can only remember who it was? think of this as a BTTT Dave ----

You said in a post of a fuse tap was to small what was meant of that? I ask because yesterday when adding the air fuel ratio gauge (temp install till I get the AFR dialed in) my son had a few different sizes fuse taps in his stash. You pull a fuse from the box it has 2 spades that go in where a fuse would be in the box. Then it has 2 places to install fuses and a pig tail. 1 fuse would be the one you pulled to install this tap and protects the wiring of the box like it did before. The other fuse, "the tap", would take a new fuse and feeds the "pig tail" to feed what ever. He had 3 sizes: a micro fuse, mini fuse and normal fuse sizes. Being I have only normal fuse size as spares that is what I went with. Google search came up with this from Amazon - this is a mini fuse so check when looking. https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=pd_lpo_263_img_2/147-4235120-3914356?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DYQM6EO&pd_rd_r=cec84910-89d3-4657-9462-98bfd3db4eb7&pd_rd_w=E8kXU&pd_rd_wg=J8c6X&pf_rd_p=16b28406-aa34-451d-8a2e-b3930ada000c&pf_rd_r=S9X8XJ76V8MQ6H1GW6V5&psc=1&refRID=S9X8XJ76V8MQ6H1GW6V5 We were able to pick a spot that when installed we could put the fuse box cover back on. Yes I still have the cover. Dave ----

Yes it is! It may not be fast but it will get the job done and why the 300 was used in larger trucks. Dave ----

Got out early from work, well not really in at 2am and home by 10am. Little nap and being a nice day outside I figured it was time to finish a few things on the truck. First was the trailer brake controller. I had all the wires run down the frame to the rear and inside to ready to be hooked up but did not have the pig tail to complete the wiring at the time. Well with pig tail in hand it was time to mount the controller and wire it up. I did the mounting and son did the wiring he did a way nicer job then I would have. I did not hook up to the trailer but I don't see why it would not work. I also wired in a breaker to the power feed to the trailer plug to charge trailer battery if needed. With that out of the way and still a little time left in the day again with help from my son we installed the air fuel ratio gauge. It works but I did not drive it other than to move it into the house garage from mine. I hope to get the truck out tomorrow to see what the ratio is and see how much adjusting I need to do. I also need to check the timing as I still have a little spark knock and that would also change the AFR. Dave ----

Little update. I have been driving the truck on & off for sometime now and the over drive works great. The 300 likes to pull at a low RPM so even at 45 MPH I have been using OD. I also lowered the rod into the jet and have run a few tanks since then just have not figured out the MPG yet but I don't think it is much better than before. Today with help from my son we got the air fuel ratio meter installed but have not driven the truck other than to move in from outside my garage into the house garage. It is reading so I guess that is a good thing. I have my monthly eye injection tomorrow and after a little rest I will see about taking the truck out for a spin to see when the AFR is. Before I do that I want to check the timing now that I have a light that should work in day light LOL. I am still getting a little spark knock and need to fix that before something bad happens. Dave ----

X2 That is a lot of nice work you have done so far. It's nice to have a "game plan" how close to it are you so far LOL Don't feel bad my project was just do a quick "fix whats needed" that turned into a full on cab off rebuild. Dave ----

Oh, I do have other things I can do with it...and I understand on the bed rail smoothness, I'd just like to even it out a bit more myself before I hand it off for finishing, that's all. A belt sander would help get it flat as that is what I used to make the mounting flange thinner on my EFI manifolds. Now the flap disc may get it closer to flat also. I think you are not working a large enough area. If you been working say a 1 foot area move it out to 2 to 3 feet moving a foot down the side every few min, to get the whole lip and then work back to the other end. Think of it as trying to turn that flap disc into a board / belt sander by moving it. Oh you will need to do the same with the belt sander too. It is looking good Dave ----

Gary, AMC had the same color match issue with the tan parts. This because each part / pair were made by different companies. I bet Ford and others did the same. Dave ----

SEM don't have that color? Is this the color you are after? Dave ----

I was thinking of the "sell and buy different axles" but wanted to hear what he has first. If he had a 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift and running 40"+ tires then I think that would not be the way to go. He is 16 after all LOL Dave ----

Scott, I don't see why you could not cut the wires and add them to a connector or plug that would be easier to feed through the dash. I would think even if you had to add to the wires to make them longer it would not change anything on how it works. Just my guess Dave ----