FuzzFace2

Dose the screw on knob have the same pattern? If so how hard would it be to thread the stick to use the screw on knob? I have been thinking of doing this for my shifter stick as mine is splined and was messed up by the PO pulling it off. It also has a drop in pattern that makes noise. Thing that has stopped me is finding a good knob. Dave ----

I am all for "doing your own thing" but is sounds like a lot of work to make a wheel when its already made Dave ----

From what I could tell from the pictures all looks good. Being you are that far apart I would remove the E brake cable and make sure it is free to move and maybe lube it or maybe just replace it or both. Now the only issue I had with my 81 F100 when I replace the cables was the springs that push the arms back were to long and when installed looped down and would rub on the drum. I even get a 2nd set that were the same way and dont know why? The E brake also dose not work all that great and also most not at all in reverse. Dave ----

I have potting running down the inner fender on my truck and it runs just fine. I should pull the other from my parts fender and throw it in the truck just in case LOL The others I had go bad, 76 AMC with a 258 six, 78 Merc with a 300? six, and neither leaked potting. Dave ----

DON'T TOUCH IT I never had one that ran hot so I never had to deal with that. Also all the cars I had the issues on were factory stock, no one swapped out parts like installing the wrong coil. So if the coil is getting hot I think I would check if it is the right one. How is it mounted? If oil filled they need to be mounted a certain way as the oil keeps them cool. What is the voltage going to it? If all else fails replace it Dave ----

I guess it could be called that as it would cycle the compressor clutch based on PSI. IIRC the switch is not marked for R12 or 134a and both will swap. I think what I did was look up when the switch to 134a was used and went with that. Again the only difference in the switches is what they are adjusted to for the system its used on so you could adjust yours if you wanted to. I will get the PN of what I used ASAP for you. Dave ---- See if this works from my phone Dave. ----- edit well its up there but side ways

I guess it could be called that as it would cycle the compressor clutch based on PSI. IIRC the switch is not marked for R12 or 134a and both will swap. I think what I did was look up when the switch to 134a was used and went with that. Again the only difference in the switches is what they are adjusted to for the system its used on so you could adjust yours if you wanted to. I will get the PN of what I used ASAP for you. Dave ----

I did have a DSII act like a choke issue that drove me nuts Start the car let it run a bit to warm up, 5 to 10 min. Could drop it into gear and drive down the street and stop for a light and it would stall. Same coming home from work, let warm up may be under 5 min, pull out of theparking lot, had to wait for gate to open, then a short distance to the light and it would stall. Each time it would start right back up and be ok for the rest of the trip of about 5 miles. This was on the wife's car and when ever drove it it would run find and never stall. \ But I kept adjusting the choke because of the stalling. Talking to a buddy of mine he said to change out the DSII box and never an issue after that. I say change out the box and see what happens and if it still does the same thing you now have a spare. I have also had them heat up and stop the motor like the key was turned off. Sometimes just opening the hood was enough to cool it down and it would start back up. When running have you tried moving the wires going to the box and the dist. to see if that dose anything? The other thing to try is remove the vacuum hose to the vacuum advance on the dist. and plug it and see if it has the issue. Oh you said you have a tach what happen to it when the motor stops, dose it just go to 0 RPM or bounce a little before? I had another car that would shut down but the tach would jump a little just before it would die. Moving the wires did nothing, replacing the box did nothing I think what may have been the cause was the pick up coil inside the dist. I say "think" as I had to move the car and I had a RTR Mallory dist. I pulled from my race car that I dropped in. I did replace the pick up coil in the dist but being lazy I never swapped the dist. back into the motor so not 100% sure of the fix. Keep us posted on what you fine. Dave ----

Yes you are right on the part numbers. They have a main number that is for all of that part be it for your truck or car and be it for HVAC or something else. So Ebrake cables for all cars / trucks would have a main number of say (1234-5) but then when for your car or truck would add the rest of the number (1234-5-xxx). And if you have a part with a number it is NOT a part number but an engineering number. If looking for said part used you may try that engineering as other think it is a parnt number. Now it may also help to list it as I think we have a way to find the real P/N. My HVAC control looks the same as yours, not in a row, and is of the later year but I forget what year mow. I had nothing, the HVAC panel was ripped, yes ripped, from the dash and a member was able to get one from a junk yard for me. I thought the harness was bad? If so why not run rubber hose to replace the broken plastic lines? Mine under the dash was still good, it was the engine bay plastic lines that were bad so I ran rubber on the engine bay side into the cab and pushed it on the plastic line. Dave ----

"wood we are going with planks, my buddies who are wood chucks, will not allow plywood..lol" :nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:Love it Thanks for the reply back. When you get the bed floor done you have to post up pictures. Dave ----

Good to hear less throttle needed than before to get it moving and sorry on needing a tow back to the house Question on the HEI module, is that in place of the DSII box and if so why (with out me going back through all the pages). Dave ----

So going with planks and not ply wood. Who did you get the parts from? When I did mine between the front / rear sills and all the cross members I came up with $1000. Add in the metal slats, wood & bolt / nut hardware and the wood floor was just not happening. Being I had a bed with a good metal floor but 1 side wrecked in the roll over I went with the metal floor. Cant wait to see the floor done. Dave ----

Chad, It sounds like you have a good plan, to get all the main parts in place then the lines. Dont trash the lines you have now as they may fit in 1 place or more and could help get "off the shelf" hoses. A shop might also be able to use the hose ends too. The pressure switch goes in the drier and has 2 wires going to it. You old one can be adjusted but I just went for a new one. You cant get one for your truck as it will be for R12 you need one running 134a like on the later trucks but still has the same plug. I can dig up my old switch for the P/N in a day or 2. Dave ----

Out early from work and being I took the truck to work the transmission oil was good for draining so I could refill with Red Line MT-90 oil. While the trans was draining I adjusted the rear brakes as the peddle feels low but it also will not pump up so I will need to look into it more. I then looked into why the washer pump did not work as it tested good on the bench. Had power on the wire but with no help it was hard to test the ground side. I cleaned up the 2 posts on the pump with sand paper and plugged the wire back in and it now works, yea me! Next was the oil leak on the motor. It is not as bad but still leaking. It looks to be coming at the left front corner of the pan where it meets the timing cover. I cant remember if I used any RTV in that area? The bolts are tight so if it gets worst I may have to drop the pan or pull the motor to do that? I then refilled the transmission with RL MT-90 took almost a full gallon. I did not take the truck for a test but just moving it from garage to garage it seamed to go into gears easier. The old oil looked to have really fine gold flakes hope the non-GL4 oil did not hurt the transmission to bad. ​​​​​​​Dave ----

No EGR. The power valve was new with the rebuild kit I got when I bushed the throttle shaft last winter. So it's not the same one I was running last year, but it "should" be good. If I'd have looked at the plugs before I ordered the jets I'd have gone a little bigger too. As it is I'll start with the 50s when they get here and see what I think after that. I do not have an AFR yet. It's on the list, but hasn't been very near the top. As I said, I got this carb from a junk yard and just ran it. It's always worked pretty good, but I've never been confident that it was really dialed in. So some time I would like to do that. And if I can't get it back to "pretty good" the AFR might move up the list. Good on everything but the power valve. OK so the PV is new and should work but do they make different ones like Holley's to dial it in? Holley's are marked on them so you know what vacuum it works at. Are the MC ones the same or can you use Holley's? I knew the jets were different and when I could not get my MC carb to run right on my AMC 304 motor and having the 2300 Holley on the shelf and a box full of tuning parts for the race track I went Holley. Son just rebuilt a 2300 for his Jeep YJ running a 258 AMC straight six. I told him to write down the jet size, PV size and the accel pump nozzle size so he knows what he is starting with and we can adjust from there as needed. I think he said before when he was using the Jeep it ran rich? I just never got into the MC carb to know what parts you can get for them to "dial it in". Dave ----

3. Failing #1 and #2, anyone have any tricks or tips for repairing or splicing the existing lines? Or a non-stock replacement that will work? Thanks! Pete Being I am cheap I pulled the broken plastic line from the grommet and pushed rubber through. When I added the heater core shut off valve and testing I found my system doors stopped working I had vacuum on the engine bay side but not on the inside at the plug joining the 2 vacuum harnesses. I was able to track it down that the plastic supply line broke inside the grommet That is when I came up with pushing the rubber hose through the grommet. When on this HVAC vacuum deal. If trying to track down a vacuum leak and cant find it do you have the tin vacuum can on the fender well for the HVAC system? Pull it off the fender and pry off the bracket and check it over good. Maybe put a hose on it and put it under water and blow in the hose, any bubbles? Mine had pin holes on the bottom where the bracket was and the ends. I used fiberglass rosin and coated the can and painted it black put the bracket back on and it is good as new now. I also the factory check valve did not test good so I picked up 2 from local part store and neither one "checks" when you blow through them also so I kepted the factory one in place and when on the throttle and vent doors move...... oh well. Dave ----

Side note: You said the system does not work now do you know why? Hole in the system somewhere? I was told my system was working up to when the truck ended upside down in a ditch. The PO pulled the motor before I got the truck and put the water pump into the AC condenser I thought just the fins where bad but when I went to blow air through it the tubes where crushed, so had to get a new condenser. The new ones dont bolt in 100% but not too hard to make it work. You need to space out the lower part to clear the radiator support by about 1/4" along with the hood latch support at the bottom. I used longer bolts and tubing cut to size and it works great. All the factory hoses still fit the new condenser and the condenser is made for 134a, the old was for R12. So you may want to replace it as the old one may not work as good and flushing it could be a pain. You will want to replace the dryer and the orifice valve when ever the system is opened up. I also flushed out the Evap coil just to be safe, it had no junk in it. I also replaced the PSI switch with the later 134a as 134a runs at a different PSI than R12. They say you can adjust the old R12 one but I felt best to replace it with all the work I was doing to get my system working again. The only other thing I ran into was I could not hook up my gauge set to the high side. The fitting is smaller than my sets fitting so I could only fill & check on the low side only. I just fixed my system, had a leak at a compressor fitting (hope) it was a rubber O-ring as it fell off the hose fitting when I removed it. Dave ----

I kind of went through this last summer on my 81 F100 with a 300 six. The truck had a York compressor but I switched to the later V belt Sanden style compressor as I did not have any mounts for either. Even with the compressors mounted in the same area they used different hose routing and fitting ends at the compressor.I did have to reuse 1 of the lines from my truck but was able to use hoses from the later truck to fit the compressor to get it to all work. I dont think you can make up the hoses as the rubber needs to be "made / clamped" to the metal line with tools made just for this. I would also not order any of the lines from on line, get them from local parts store for easy returning if you can. I would mount the compressor and get the belt routing taken care of first. Then with the hoses you have see what "may work" for fittings and routing. Now if some will work you can either reuse it or go new if you want. Now for the ones that dont work I can see 2 ways of going back then. If I had the right ends but the hose was to short or long was to find a lock shop that could make up new hose using my ends. If I could not take the truck to them I was going to have to come up with a way to make the ends "clock" right when the hose was made. 1 company was On Site Hose said they had some AC hose in stock and could make up hoses for me. The other was to find an after market AC hose kit on line. It came with the metal hose ends (fittings) and the rubber hose and you make your hoses. I was also looking at the tool needed to crimp the rubber to the fitting to look factory as the tool was not too much money. Again I was lucky as I found off the shelf hoses, 1 does run across the top of the motor and not to the firewall to the other side like the later trucks do. So dont over look the later 80's trucks that use Sanden style compressor for a hose that may work. Dave ----

Or power valve? That would also add more fuel. On the jets if really white I would of gone with 50's and 51's. IIRC Holley has you going up or down by 2 numbers till close then 1 to hit the mark. Do you run a AFR meter? I dont know if they help or hurt LOL It did point me to an issue with my Carter YF carb that I might not have known about other wise. In the cool mornings the AFR is not bad, still a little rich, but when it warms up in the after noon it is a lot richer. Think I am going to see about leaning it out just a little more some day. Dave ----

I also had to "rig up" hot air for the choke because the EFI manifolds dont have a pass through to get heat from. I took copper tubing and put a few wraps around 1 of the manifolds and up to the choke, that fresh air side gets hooked were it should also. As for the stumble it only happened 2 times and it was shortly after I got it on the road for the drive to work. It does not warm up much before I start out and it was as I was pulling up to the light 1/4 mile from my drive. I guess the choke could have pulled off to soon? Other wise it runs great. Dave ----

The other day I topped off the washer fluid and found the container was dried out and cracked so I dug out my other one that came off my truck but did not use it as it was covered with paint and the inside was a mess! I soaked the inside for a day or 2 with Awesome Cleaner and it came out pretty good. On the outside I used a Scotch pad and Awesome to get most of the paint off. I then used a little thinner on a rag to get the rest off. I was going to pull the pump and clean it better but it would not come out so I bench tested it and it ran so I will give it a shot. Was not quite done when it started to rain but I got it installed and topped off. Thing is the washer part did not spray so will need to look into that. With the rain I could not hear if it was running or not but I know the old setup did so I am pretty sure it is getting power. Also gave a quick look for the oil leak from above and it may be coming from the pan where it meets the timing cover? I need to get under to give a look but truck was out side and it was raining. It never ends Dave ----

You didnt keep a spray paint can cap in the tool box? You pull 1 of the lower bowl screws and catch the fuel in the cap. You might need 2 caps now that I think of it, been a bit since I had to do this. Dave ----

The heating of the intake from either the stock exh manifold or coolant and the heated air through the air filter do 2 different things. The hot air through the air filter keeps the carb from icing as it is HOT air going into the carb. The heating of the intake keeps the air / fuel mix mixed. If you were to cool off the mixture the fuel would drop out of the air and pool on the intake floor and "spill" in to each hole. Look at compressed air systems, when the air it hot the water stays in it, cool off the air and the water falls out of it. Same happens to the air / fuel mix. The heated intake keeps this mixture mixed! Now I run EFI exh manifolds with the factory intake & carb. I also have the coolant heater for the intake. As for the heat to the air filter there is no easy way to add the tin to the EFI to capture the heat but have the vacuum hooked up so the flapper should work. I do have air pulling from down that area of the exh manifolds and from in front of the radiator support. I have used my truck when in the high 20's wich only a short warm up. I keep it in the house garage so it is a little warmer, back it out side and let it run while I grab the last few things and turn off lights. I have only had it sputter 2 times that could have been from the carb icing but not sure? It is a 2 mile drive from my house to the high way and only 1 light of 3 I get stopped at other wise on the high way for the next 35 miles. Same when I leave work, fire it up, text wife on my way home and into gear and maybe under 1 miles to the high way if I go that way or then back roads at 45 MPH. I only have 1 light either way before getting on high way or 3 milea before next light andb the motor have some temp in it by that time. When I did the EFI manifolds I knew I was going to drive it when cold and why the intake heater install. Dave ----

I found on Holley's running the fuel level a little lower helped a little but they also make a off road float kit. It is a spring loaded float to keep it from bouncing. We also ran a rubber hose from vent tube to vent tube and cut a little V notch in the top center. This would keep fuel that may come up the vent tube from going down the carb it would go to the rear float bowl. There is also vent extensions that fit on the inside of the bowl that also help keep fuel from coming up the vents. This is used mostly in the front bowl on drag cars as the fuel would rush to the back of the bowl, up the vent tube and flood the motor. It would cut out slow down and no more fuel down the carb and race was lost. Because we did hill drags & climbs this was an issue with us racing off road. Just FYI Dave ----

Got out early from work and being its getting warmer (read hotter) I (hope) fixed the AC and recharged it. I pulled the fitting at the discharge line of the compressor and the O-ring almost fell off. My son helped as he went to school of this stuff. He did say he wanted supper cooling & supper heat with a 5* spread but only getting 3* Again could not hook up the high side to see what is going on but he thinks I may have added to much oil to the system the first time. On a road test it got down to about 36* / 37* with OAT of about 80* I do hope its fixed. I also saw oil on the front cross member again and need to get back under to see if I can fin where its coming from. Dave ----