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FuzzFace2

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Everything posted by FuzzFace2

  1. I did see adds on tv for it, at least it looks like a PU truck un-like the EV Mustang where they were just using the name for an ugly looking SUV thing in my book. As for the lighting name I also though the same but can also see why because of the EV side. Besides anyone who would buy this EV truck would they know what the first lighting's were unless they had one or were into the first ones? I dont think they do and maybe not the people at Ford that started to draw this up (to young). I wonder how stripped down the $40K truck is and what the cost is to install a charger at your house if you can? Up north around NYC & lower CT come summer they have brown outs because the power CO. cannot keep up to power demand now put on all the EV's whats going to happen? And if you dont think thats not a big deal, I worked at a hospital and the power Co. would tell us to cut back on power we use or go to gen set and off the power grid! Yes a hospital! Now if the tree huggers are buying the EV's have they thought what happens when the batteries have to be replaced? I dont think so and they are worst for earth I think than gas. Just my .02 Dave ----
  2. Thanks!!! I'm glad people are appreciating it! Like I keep saying, sharing a trip like this stretches out the enjoyment. The first time we were in Moab some one asked me "What's it take to 'wheel a collectible vehicle?" My answer is to not think of it as being collectible! I bought this for $6000 almost 20 years ago. I don't like to think about what I have in it now, but I'm sure it's south of $20,000. Buying a new side-by-side will set you back about that much. So I don't really feel like I'm risking all that much REALLY using it. And it might not seem like it to everyone, but I really am pretty careful with it, so I don't think it's that big of a risk. And I have it to use it, no trailer queens here! And I'm looking forward to more road trips too, but it'll be a while. I've got other trips I'm looking forward to too, including a Panama Canal cruise that was postponed for a year due to Covid. Road trips will need to wait a bit! Renting is a great option for many. Like I said above, I have my Bronco to use it, and building it to go difficult places, and then successfully going to those places increases the enjoyment for me. But that's me and I ain't normal! But I think if my younger son can talk his wife into stuff like this he'll be renting. He's a bit intimidated by the repairs and maintenance I go through. And there are plenty of easier trails out there. The guide book I have (Guide to Moab UT Backroads & 4-Wheel-Drive Trails by Charles A. Wells) lists trails by difficulty. Because of what we want I'm focussing on the "difficult" trails, but there are "easy" and "moderate" as well. You can have whatever kind of fun you want out there! That is some pretty area out there. Thanks for taking us along with you. Looking forward for the next outing BTW what were the tires aired down to? Looked pretty low in some of the pictures then again with all the weight on 1 tire can make it look a lot lower than they are. Dave ----
  3. Good to hear you made it thru the storms with little if any damage. If you guys could post up the PN for the check valve (81 F100 factory AC) that would be good. The factory one dose not hold and the 2 store bought I can blow air thru from both sides, that tells me they dont work either So far it has not been too big an issue but would be nice to have it work right. Thanks Dave ----
  4. I think he would of had more time to drink more beers if he put that v8 in place of the 300 where it is to be up front but that me. The truck also looked to be in pretty good shape up to that point. Dave ----
  5. You have 1 compressor and 2 - 20 gallon tanks LOL On most compressors the check valve is at the end of the air tube before it goes into the tank. If the tubes and tank opening are the same size you may be able to take the one from the Puma unit to use on the Craftsman? I think I have a link for compressor parts if you need it,if it is still good as I have not used it in years. I used a 30 gallon Craftsman dual voltage (on the higher volts) for a while till I did not check the oil and it now has a knock. I did look into a new compressor unit to bolt to my tank but the more I got thinking it was really to small for the body work I had to do. I found on Ebay a used SnapOn shop compressor that said had work done to it before being disconnected. When I went to start it I found the starter box had the contacts welded closed! This was from a bad check valve like yours and tried to start with air psi on the pistons. I also found the heads were loose on start up but the pistons & walls looked great. Replaced the check valve, the reed valves in the heads as I replaced the head gaskets & starter contacts. I bought for $1000, have about $200 in to it, the unit new goes for $5000 and is way more than I will ever need. Hooked to my home made air cooler / drier and 5 air hose drops around my garage it is better than most shops have LOL Dave ----
  6. Thanks for the code as I did not know there was such a thing. All this picture thing was not an issue till my picture hosting site stopped using some software(forgot what it is now Java maybe?) because of security issues. Thing is there is no replacement for it so I am kind of hosed right now. Before I posted any pictures to my site I could rotate them before I hit "save" and all was good. Then I could just post then here and they were right side up. The other thing I find strange is I switched browsers, out dated IE to Chrome, When I view my site pictures some are turned sideways and blurry and dont know why? I dont think I can get into my site and flip them because of the soft wear thing I will figure it someday when I get that bug up you know where Thanks again for the code Dave ----
  7. Nice I have everything but the wheel, need a 5 x 5.5 steel wheel, tire is easy to come up with. Dave ----
  8. What is this 90* code you speak of Dave ----
  9. What do you have again? I see it in your sig. I got my receiver off CL its a Reese TowPower fit all. The brake controller I got through Northern Tool along with the pig tail that plugs into the controller and you splice the other end to the truck side. Dont cheap out on the controller and get a timed one as they are junk in my book. I have 2 that have a pendulum, the harder you brake the more it swings and applies more trailer brakes. They also have a hand over ride so you can apply the trailer brakes with out touching the trucks pedal. If I did not get the controller & receiver the way I did I would have gone thru https://www.etrailer.com/ That is were I got my other controller from, truck came with tow package so had the hitch and wiring. I have not pulled my car trailer yet but the truck is all set up to do so if needed. I use a weight distribution hitch (WDH) with my other truck (02 Durango) I ordered to pull my trailer. I for see needing to use the WDH on the pick up as it is only a F100 and no over load springs out back. The WDH also helps control sway but you still have to make sure the load (car or truck) is placed right on the deck of the trailer. To far forward and even with the WDH you can drag the hitch. To far back and you can get a lot of swaying that you cant control and the next thing you are on YouTube! Dave ----
  10. Gary when doing this from your phone I (we?) dont have that software and I know for me if I did would be a pain to try and use it and post the picture from phone to site. I cant load pictures to my site any more, they removed software needed to do so, and there is nothing to replace it. So if I take photo with phone I would need to save it to my computer then post to here. Oh I also switched from an old IE browser to Chrome. When I go to my side to look at or get pictures, some of them are turned sideways or blurred and cant make them out Dave ----
  11. That is a nice up grade as the shroud only came with AC trucks, dont know why Ford did it that way? When I added the AC from my parts truck it did not have a shroud and looking for one (LMC) I needed a number off it, how was that going to happen? I did a lot of searching and measuring and found the later ones would work by trimming a 1/4" off each side and fit like a glove. Because it was cheap & got 2 and figured I could make 1 that work work from both but did not need to. Dave ----
  12. Now that works for me :nabble_anim_handshake:Everything is on 1 page so you can see what is available and then you can click what you want (I did not try to click but it looks like it would get me to that item) to get to that item.Dave ----
  13. It was also happening if you qouted a post. I did not do anything different that I have done in the past and the text was covered by their picture and none of my text would show up, it was covered some how? It was strange Dave ----
  14. They do sell a plate / cap for the older masters so you can pressure bleed the system. BTW that was the only way I could get a pedal. Dave ----
  15. I think yes for manuals Would this be a tab in documents with Lit. or its own tab up front along with Lit.? I think what may be happening is things get to deep in some area and we dont "drill down" far enough to find what we need. So if we had say Documents as a main tab type deal and when in that area had a tab for Manuals and 1 for Lit. I think would be easier. I want to know how to do something or tq values then go to Manuals. Anything else to the Lit. area. Dave ----
  16. Love the pictures Be safe and enjoy Dave ----
  17. I see "literature" as sales brochures, papers on tires that were in the glove box when new or adds from magazines and the like. owners manuals would be in with the shop manuals, it has manual on it no? Now where dose the dealer acc. sheets and towing pamphlet go? I think Literature. Dave ----
  18. I am sure its not what you did as I was doing the same thing I alway did in quotes for the other person/s thread and it did the same thing. Site issues I guess Dave ----
  19. If you are doing sniper I havent confirmed it but lots of people swear holley recommends using the key hot in run and crank as a trigger for a relay then provide straight battery voltage to the sniper through the relay. Im tempted to do this myself as I could in theory splice into the key hot wire for the ignition system as it has to be hot in the run and crank position. In theory it shouldnt harm the ignition system using it as a trigger and should take nothing away from the voltage to the ignition system. But I think I will try to drop my column and find a wire from the ignition switch itself that is hot in key on as well as crank and splice a jumper wire into it to run as a trigger for the sniper. Think it would be easier as I can run this wire along the dash and out through the firewall with the wiring for the passengerside lighting harness to my auxiliary fuse/relay box that will be mounted by the battery. For the sniper itself there is no amperage rating but they do want more than 11 volts though otherwise the sniper cant fully function properly. The FiTech goes a bit further to 10.5 volts as a min. So if you can find a hot key on supply and not when cranking could you tap off the starting solenoid small post marked "I" like they did for points motors when starting for a hotter spark? Dave ----
  20. I've always been curious about the non computer setups myself. My original distributor I pulled from my '82 to replace with a new one actually has the dual advance can with the inner line plugged and using just the outside terminal for advance. I think the inner was for retard and the outter was your typical advance. Sort of like on my dual advance can on my '56 292 Y8, the outter is to venturi vacuum for advance and the inner is to manifold vacuum to pull advance out. When you go full throttle manifold vacuum drops but venturi vacuum stays so you lose this retard feature of the advance and you get more advance under load. This was done as there was no mechanical advance on this distributor. On my '82 I question how it would work cause you couldnt do the same thing as ford did on my '56 as the '82 has a mechanical advance to take over when vacuum is lost. Mine was not hooked up and my original emission decal is so faded I dont know if it even shows how it hooked up in the first place. Rusty, Looking over his pictures I found he did not have a 2 port vacuum can on the dist. but 2 different vacuum lines going down to a single port can. The lines Tee'd in close to the can and 1 line looked to have a check valve in it. I have no clue where the 2 lines got hooked up to but a guess with the check valve they wanted 1 side not to pull vacuum from the other and only on the dist. can? Crazy set up for sure Dave ----
  21. So it is EEC and has a computer in the cab? I hear the EEC systems can be a tuff cookie to work on or with. I dont see the choke set up in there or my eyes are that bad? Is the wire you are looking at on the right upper side of that? It looks to be 1 wire R/Y and not 2 wires a R & Y. Or I have the wrong colors and still thinking of the vacuum lines LOL Dave ----
  22. So I get this right the plug has 2 wires a yellow and a red one. They go down to the plug in the other picture that has 2 other wires on the same side of the plug the 2 wires are on. The other 2 wires on the same side go back into the harness and into the cab. The other side of the plug has 4 wires coming from the harness that is also from the cab. If so I dont know why they would send wires out and then back in only to have 2 go to the choke? I would post up all the wire colors on each side of the plug so someone can look them up for you. Dave ---- hate this quote
  23. If the wires from the plug on the fender go inside the cab then it would not be easy to just unplug and remove the harness. That also looks like it goes to the choke, it is a little different than my 81 that has 1 wire from ALT to choke with hot air asst. As for using it for keyed power you could turn the key on and see if hot then but dose it also need power when cranking also? If so you would need to check for that at the ssame time. The other question is what will it power and how much power (amps & volts) dose that part take to make it work and will that wire in the plug be able to handle it? Dave ---- ps them pictures you post really mess up trying to quote a post Had to remove the pictures.
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