FuzzFace2

My doors I gutted as part of the rebuild so I did not have the main glass in place when going back together. I did install the vents first then the main glass. Just be careful as there are different vent window frames and main glass that go with them so I found out. Just match up the good with the bad to make sure they are the same, both on how long and how wide the divider is. Mine were apart for almost 4 years and other than having the wrong vent frames that would not fit into the doors, thats when I found the different sizes on the frames, it was pretty easy going back together. I also replaced all the rubber seals and felt guides. Dave ----

It's how we cope with our issues Dave ----

Thanks but I got to say it was my son that found the issue and fixed it I was just there for support LOL Dave ----

That is why I used a Tee that fits between the rail harness and tail light harness that then runs to the 7 pin trailer plug. I know they dont have the relay but I dont see why I could not add one if I feel I need to? IIRC it is just for the running lights and nothing else. I would pull the rear running light wire out of the plug under the booster and add the relay there using the trucks rail harness to still feed the rear & trailer with the Tee. Then again with a head light relay kit installed removing some of theload off the head light switch would you need to run a relay for the rear lights? Dave ----

Sorry to hear that and hope all goes well on the next visit but at least you know there is an end. I need injections in 1 eye every 4 weeks right now but last 2 times it has been getting worst and may be changed to every 3 weeks. What ever it is I need the injections for the rest of my life if I want to keep my eye and it has kind of grown on me over the last 61 years LOL Because of my eye I have a hard time passing my medical for my truck lic. / CDL so every year I have to go for fancy tests and send the DMV the results and hope I can get a waver to keep my CDL and my job. It no fun getting old Good luck Dave ---

X4 Dave ----

Each carb'ed motor starts a little different and it takes time to find just what it takes to start yours. What makes it even harder is todays gas and what happens when the motor sits for a bit. As you found day to day it seams to start up pretty fast, 1 pump and maybe hold the throttle down just a little and it fires up. If it sits for a week you can try the 1 pump & hold but if it does not fire up right a way then when cranking keep pumping till it fires up. If it does not start in a short while stop and let the starter cool off for a min or 2 and try again. I adjusted my choke last weekend and how I start the truck now is different so I have to re-learn what the truck wants to start LOL Dave ----

I hate when you fix something and you wind up breaking something else When the son & I fixed the LED dash lights he found the 4 ways did not work? and everything had worked up to that point. To me it was not a big deal they did not work but it was to my son so late yesterday he dragged me out to dig into this. Before I got out there he found the stop lights did not work and that is a big deal to me. He found the fuse blown, replaced it but as soon as the brake lights came on it blew again He was thinking it was the turn signal switch but I could not really see that as the turn signals worked. So I told him to unplug the stop switch and we would jump it to see if the fuse, we installed a CB that resets, would blow and that would tell us if it was the switch or something else. A while back he removed the plug end but left the wire ends on the stop light switch to tie into the trailer brake controller as not to cut any wires. So he took the "tie in" out of the picture and the stop lights worked and did not trip the CB. Add the "tie in" and it tripped the CB? He then unplugged the wires at the back of the brake controller to rule it out and it tripped the CB, so the short was the wires from the "tie in" to the controller. Looking deeper he found wires were pinched between the column and the dash frame. Now you ask how could this happen when it all worked before? Well when removing the dash bezel a bolt fell out and months before 1 fell out and I put it in the ash tray. Son found where they went and installed them but did not see the wires for the trailer brake controller that run over the top of the column. He pulled the wiring out and it was smashed pretty good so he cut that part out solidered it back together and srink wrapped it and fished it back over the top and plugged back in and all is good again. ​​​​​​​Dave ----

If I read your post right you are taking the pre-load out and making it a little tighter right? If so I see it acting more like a locker / spool than a LS (i know gm word). It should still have a "break away" point but it will be at a higher point is all. Had a buddy do the same on a Dana unit in a Jeep but it was used for off road racing only, never on the street so cant say how it would behave. Dave ----

Ok I can see why its not where it belongs In that case for hoses I think I would look into the cars hoses as they should be longer and may reach the box in the truck. If they don't the only other way to go is custom made hoses. Now the only thing I can see as an issue is the hose ends. The car hoses will fit the compressor but as a guess not the box end. I say that because I went with a newer compressor and 1 of the hoses would not fit the box end. I forget what I did but was able to find a hose off the shelf that worked it just runs across the motor and not to the firewall. I did look into custom hoses before I got into the AC part as I kind of knew I may have an issue but did not need to go down that path. Dave ----

Yep even on the 300 six. Why would you need to mount it on the other side? What acc. belt setup are you running that the ALT is on the left side where the compressor would be? Dave ----

The work you have done looks really good Mine looked that way till I painted the truck as over spray got under the sheets & paper But I know the frame was done to protect it. I went with white KYB's on my truck and I think they ride great. As for the hard starting after sitting a few days this is normal with today's fuel, and no fuel from the carb CAN NOT drain back to the tank! What happens is the fuel evaporates from the carb float bowl and it happens faster when there is heat from the intake heating the carb. For the most part my truck will sit for a week between trash runs and it is also hard to start. I should say it takes a lot of cranking to get it to start. Last few days I have been driving it to work so it fires right up with just 1 pump of the throttle. So one (on the other forum) said he added .9 gallon of diesel to 16 gallons of gas and that help with starting but that may have been a hot restart? Dave ----

The AC system is not that hard to get working again. My 81 came with the big York compressor but none of the brackets and the condenser had crushed tubes, water pump hit it when the PO pulled and sold the motor. So wanted to go with the later compressor & brackets (junk yard for compressor & member for brackets). I replaced the condenser, you have to do a little shimming to get it to fit but not bad at all. When ever you have an old system that was open replace the drier & orifice valve. What was hard for me was finding the right hoses, I replaced them all, that would fit my trucks AC system that I was using and the newer compressor as the hose ends were different and also run different in the engine bay. I got to tell you it will freeze you out if set on high fan and even on low I sometimes need to add a little heat. Dave ----

On the one not broken any way to heat the manifold where the bolt is and not heat the bolt? You want to expand the manifold around the bolt before trying to remove the bolt. Dave. ----

Why not check for power out at the motor as I think you can get to the plug. Dave. ----

After getting measurements from members, marking the outside of the glass and checking if the visors cleared I mount the button to the glass. It said to give 30 min before mounting the mirror but going to give it a day or so just to make sure. It also said 1 drop of glue to the button but after on the glass it looks like it could have been a good size drop or 2 little ones. If it does not stick I know for next time I guess. The mirror I have is the small 10" non-day / night but will keep an eye open for the 12" and if it is a D/N great but not worried if not. If the outside mirrors were better placed, more forward on the doors but the vent frame is then in the middle, I would not even think of re-mounting the inside mirror. Thanks for the measurements. Dave ----

What is nice about non-show trucks is you really dont worry about it like one you have put a lot of time and way to much money into. I built mine as a driver but after waxing mine a few weeks back I have worried more about it than before and I dont know why. Maybe because I went over every inch "wax on / wax off" and could then see just how much work I put into it to get it were it is? First bug, of many, that hit the windshield last week taking the truck to work for 2 days, I was like because I knew it was also getting on the painted parts. They cut back on water use here but I have 2 shows next Saturday so going to have to sneak water to wash it Dave ----

Up top I can maybe see that but then why the 2nd hole down at the other end? Because of the larger nuts used on the larger truck would it have a different wrench and be 2 part? So you guys with 250 / 350 what you have to say on the other part of the lug wrench holder? Dave ----

Here you go http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98098/20200222_154845.jpg And before you ask sorry I did not jave the jack in place when I took the picture.Its there now but it dose not work http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98098/20200222_154925.jpg And the jack handle across the radiator support http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98098/20200222_154910.jpg Dave ---- I have the jack but didn't test it yet. What goes in the other slot? http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98099/PXL_20210531_000320188.jpg http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98099/20200222_154845~2.jpg Good question as I dont know Maybe some one will know? Dave ----

Here you go And before you ask sorry I did not have the jack in place when I took the picture.Its there now but it dose not work And the jack handle across the radiator support Dave ----

Yea I dont know why either? I will use the shorter one till I come into the longer one. I stopped at AZ down the street and they were all out of the glue till next week:nabble_smiley_what: So I will try a few other stores back in town tomorrow. On your measurement I was told by 2 others of 6" down from the top and centered like yours. Do your visors clear the mirror at 3"? Dave ----

Gary thank you when I go out later I will pick up the glue and make it tomorrows project. A member on that other site got 6" to the top of the mount? Now that is how you drive a crazy man mad I know it was posted the mirror size but I think the right size got broken in the roll over so I only have the smaller one but its better than what I got now ....... nothing! Thanks again Dave ----

Yea them caps need to come off before welding anything to them. I pulled them off before welding them to the back side. Should just pry off IIRC I think if you want new ones a good hardware store should have them. Dave ----

As we all know over time our trucks need a little help with little things that pop up and we keep putting off till that "one day" comes, that was yesterday. The choke needed a little "tweaking" when it was 90* out it would not come on (I think as I never looked) or up the idle speed and if it did as soon as I hit the throttle the idle would drop. Even when colder out the fast idle would kick down but I could drive the truck with out any worming up. So being lazy all I did was turn the black cap, after marking so I know where I started at, and will see what that gets me. The right side mirror would move with closing the door so took up on the 3 screws on the bottom, they were a little lose, so will see if that fixes it. Added a little oil to the motor as it was down 1 qt. The dome light for the right door stopped working a few weeks back so dug into that. When I removed the switch it did not have a wire on it? That's why it did not work! My son came out and helped as 1 person had to fish the wire from inside to get close to the hole for the switch and the other to grab the wire / plug and pull it out the hole. He worked the plug & switch so it would not come apart again (I hope). At that point he asked what else needed to be done? I did not want to get into this but I had some of the dash lights stop working and did not think it was the bulbs as they were replaced with LED's I know some would flicker or like the right turn light would work for a bit then stop then start / stop over time till it just stopped. He said he would do the work if I guided him how it had to come apart so on we went! He had issues with the light & wiper knobs but got them off. When he got the bezel off a bolt fell out? I had one do that months back and could not find where it came from. He was able to find where they both came from and installed them back. When the gauge cluster was pulled out the speedo cable popped off, more on this later. So we pulled all the bulbs, cleaned the strip and the bulb holders all shinny again and used dielectric grease, hope that will keep the lights on. Tested and all worked as should but he said the "brake" light did not? He check if the 2 wires at the valve had power and they did not. I dont ever remember the light coming on as a test like the seat belt light dose? I told him to forget about it as I did not need a light to tell me the brake peddle went to the floor! So on to the speedo cable. He could not get the cable to clip onto the cluster and when looking the inner cable was pushed out and would not let the cable clip on. Told him to remove it from the transmission for now. This fixed the gauge end and he got everything back together inside but ..... Now at the trans end the inner cable was sticking out so the gear would not fit on so you could get it's clip on the gear and the end of the cable. The only fix I could see was to cut the inner cable to fit so the gear could go on and the clip installed so that's what my son did. During the dash light work a storm came thru and of course we were out side the garage with fan blowing and the fur kids were outside. So I got the fan & cords in the garage and then the fur kids to the house, son the truck into the garage and it came down. So much so son had to close up the garage as the wind was blowing everything around and flooding it. It was late and still raining on & off so did not do a road test. Dave ---- Forgot I also painted the Over Drive knob so it shows up its over drive and not a 4x4 lever that some thought it was.

BTTT Dave ----