FuzzFace2

Just got to find the time. Been at work 2am and still have 3+ hours then a hour drive home. I was going to look for that post also when I had time just to see what he had. I also want to see what Motor's manual has listed for my truck. Between the 2 I should have a good starting place. I was looking for spring / weight kits bur kept coming up with GM parts even with the truck or motor listed? I hate to get into the distributor and not have parts on hand. Dave ----

At WOT now I would say anything above 1500 rpm I get a little at 1500 rpm and lower, truck will pull from 1000 rpm, but I back out of it not to hurt the motor. That is with vacuum advance disconnected. It was really bad when hooked up. I need to throw a light on it again to get the numbers as I don't remember them but think it is set to 14 BTDC. At 16 BTDC pinging was really really bad. If ibackeddown to 10 BTDC I had to crank it more before it would start / run, now I just tap the key and it fires right up. Dave ----

We're the brackets from your old bumper? If so they might been a package deal, bumper & brackets to fit the truck. Now you want to use the old brackets with new bumper and it don't fit! Measure say from the ball mount to the bracket holes and you may find they are different between the two bumpers. Dave ----

When I get on my pc I will tell you how I did my AC swap, it's not easy my way Dave ----

Or got lucky Took to work again today, 1am 34°f and worked great. I need to find time to look into the pinging at load. Still have a little with vacuum disconnected & plugged. Dave ----

Thanks Les I am still fixing the air filter side as I just found it was not working as it should. It may be a bit before it gets below 45° here. Next few days lows are about mid 40's mid to high 50's during the day Saturday going to be mid 70's Will keep posted what happens. Dave. ---- Well it was 28°f when I left for work today. Normally truck is parked in the house garage, unheated. I start it with 1 pump not even to the floor to set the choke and it fires right up. I back it out and let it run as I grab the rest of my work stuff and hit the John 1 last time, old man here LOL When I get out to the truck the the fast idle goes from about 1000 rpm to about 1200 rpm, 1 tap of the pedal and it dropped to about 800 rpm, normal speed. I was able to dive it like it was up to full temp even if it was not and the idle speed stayed low at the light 1/4 mile up the road. I took back roads o ly because of the time, rust hour and highway is stop & go most of the way. I got to say the choke stayed open for the whole drive, just under 40 miles. I would say leaning out the choke and wrapping the tubes & manifold with header wrap to keep the heat in did the trick. I still would like to get the snorkel valve work at some point but has dropped down the list some. Still testing but might be as good as it gets. Dave ----

Holley chokes have been known to be a little finaky and need some playing with at least most of mine did. Dave ----

Truck is my 81 F100 flare side with a 300 six with a NP435 trans and added over drive unit. I have been fighting a pinging issue since I got it on the road 2 years ago. I pings when you hit some hills and the RPM is about 1500 @ 45 MPH but I have gotten it on the high way at 1800 @ 65 - 70 MPH. It will happen even worst if you go WOT and will stop if you back off the throttle. The timing is set (IIRC) 14* BTC, vacuum off & plugged. I dont remember what the mechanical timing was or vacuum was when I looked into this months ago but both were working / advancing timing. Little by little I have been adjusting the vacuum can and at first it seams ok then start pinging. Today I got crazy with it and turned the adjust meant clock wise all the way and it was worst, pinging between gear changes. I then went what I think was all the way counter clock wise. Why I say "think", it did not stop turning but made a clicking noise like you were at the end of threads and it clicked back tillit happened again. It still pinged but not as bad. No pinging on gear changes but WOT or hills at part throttle i did. So more testing I removed vacuum and plugged the line and now only get a little at WOT or if the RPM is way to low, just above 1000 RPM in 3rd gear pulling out of a corner. So this pinging with no vacuum advance is telling me too much mechanical timing. Again I dont remember what that is but will test / check ASAP. I have not looked into kits for springs or a different adjustable vacuum can or if I can install some kind of limit on the weights. Am I on the wrong path to limit the mechanical first and stop the pining with out the vacuum then look into the vacuum side? If not on the wrong path how would you go about this? Limit the travel of the weights or stiffer springs or both? I also need to pull out my Motor's manual for pros and see what it has for timing deg @ RPM so I have something to go by as a starting point. Thanks for any help you can give. Dave ---- ps: I should add it is not a lean ping as the AFR gauge reads any where from low 12's to mid 13's

That is where my compressor brackets came from for my 300 six. In my case I also needed from a van as I had my motor a van PS pump on it. For the manifolds that is the part the hoses screw on to that is bolt to the compressor right? Being I needed a compressor for a core either way I picked up a compressor from the JY. In my case I was only able to find them 1 time on Ebay and they were $100 ea +sh The JY one with manifolds was cheaper. The only thing you need to know on manifolds & hoses as there are 2 different types, factory service ports and not. Dave ----

Neither of my 2 80's (11/80 & 2/81) F100 trucks had them on the radiator support. If the truck had it on the support did it have the one on the fire wall also? Dave ----

The vacuum bleeding if from a hand pump is a wast of time in my book. I have one that uses shop air to make vacuum and that was only a little better. When bleeding ALWAYS start at the farthest wheel and working to the master. Check the rear brakes to make sure they are adjusted if not that can through off the whole system. Get the needed MC cap and pressure bleed the system. If the rear is adjusted and the pressure bleeding did not help I am thinking the new MC is bad. If you can fid an empty lot get up to speed and lock out the brakes and see what marks are left. If all is good you should have 4 even marks. If only 2 wheels lock, front or rear, then you know where the system has the issue. Dave ----

First you did a lot of work to re-new the system good for you as a lot dont Did you adjust the rear brake shoes? If not that will show as a low pedal. If you did adjust them and then drove it for a bit try adjusting them again as any high spots would wear down adding play. If that dose not pan out how did you bleed the system? Use 2 people and started at the far wheel, RR, LR, RF, LF. Now if that is how you did it try again. Now if that dose not work you will need to pressure bleed it as that is the only way you are going to get the air out. It was the only way I could get a pedal on my truck and my system was open for years and everything replaced like yours. Dave ----

Welcome I dont have an auto truck but if you measure from the pedal to the floor, carpet or rubber mat?, maybe someone can measure theirs to compare. Power or manual brakes? Any work done to the brake system that you know of? There are a few things I am thinking of but want to hear what you are working with before I throw them out here and people. Dave ----

On the lighter outlet I just got 1 of them USB dual port thingies I plug in to use to charge my phone. As for the ash tray that is where the lighter part is along with a small screw driver and a few other things I cant remember now but I can close it and just have the charge cord hanging out. Dave ----

Think thats where mine was and where I put it back if I remember. I also think I used all the tags from the flare side so it matches and the others are in my parts bins Dave ----

To bad they are not red Dave ----

Nice little truck but why a new transmission with the low miles? Dave ----

Really nice looking truck. I dont think them hub caps came on it for that year did they? I also thought that seat was in the later years too but I like it only in red What transmission dose it have? SROD or RUG? Think I answered my own question from my parts truck picture. Dave ----

My parts trucks tag was above the HVAC box IIRC there is also a tag on the front of the bed that should match I just dont have a picture of it but think I put it back on my bed when I built it. As for the filter hose to radiator part the part dose the "twist". Mine is a six but would think a v8 would be the same. It also has a screw to hold it to the support if I remember but also has a bracket to something else just cant remember to where? Dave ----

From the first roll over video it looked like he was going to fast, running high range and not low range and let the motor do all the work. Did the LC have a lift kit and stiff suspension? The stock suspension with longer shackles works vary good for Off Roading at least on mine it did. As you can see in the last video LC are tuff trucks. I rolled mine racing a few times. Set it on its wheels, look it over and go racing again. Dave ----

I had a glove box full of gas tickets I needed to put into my note book. I have kept it from the get go 12 - 4 -2019 when I bought the truck. First drive as a test around the block 10 - 2019 it had 37439.3 miles on the clock Last time I got gas 12 - 1 - 2021 and 53073.8 on the clock. That is 15,634.5 miles since on the road in 2 years! I did not think I had that much on it but with 37+ miles each way to work not counting little trips here & there it adds up fast. I built it as a driver and guess that is what I have been doing LOL As for MPG I went back 9 fill ups and got 15.50 MPG avg I am still working on timing as I get pining at WOT, been adjusting the vacuum can. Once I got that under control I will work on leaning out the carb as the AFR meter is showing rich but it has gotten a little better with the timing changes. Dave ---- ps I need to do a oil change now that I know how far I have gone LOL

Thanks Les I am still fixing the air filter side as I just found it was not working as it should. It may be a bit before it gets below 45° here. Next few days lows are about mid 40's mid to high 50's during the day Saturday going to be mid 70's Will keep posted what happens. Dave. ----

We have the beds off several pickups right now. I was looking at them pondering how to resolve the fill hose issue on Spartacus, a 97 Aeronose that is getting a Bullnose front clip (thread is here somewhere). It looks like you'd have to bend the top of the frame rail down, or the bed up, to get enough clearance to stop pinching that rear tank fill hose. The 350 frame is pretty stout so bending the bed makes more sense. Maybe a 150 frame would be easier to mod. What we've done on flatbeds is put the filler right on the top of the deck. fyi With the 87 you should not have the fill issue we have on the 80 - 86 trucks as the fix for them is to use the later fill pipe system. I dont have any issues filling my 2 tanks as when I put them back in I amde sure the inner tubes were installeduld be from the factory. The rear tank on my flare side was never an option so I used parts from my parts truck rear tank and had to make mods to work and look factory. I believe that roll over valve isthe same on all trucks. The reason I replaced mine (2) was with age. 1 had the nipple broken and felt if 1 (of 3 I could use) was the others may break. Also the rubber seal was loose so that was replaced on both tanks. IIRC I got the valves & seals from LMC. I used a little grease to get the valve in the rubber seal that was put in the tank first IIRC. Dave ----

Vary cool video When my son was a lot younger, he is in his 30's now, Santa brought him and I T10 trucks. There was a hobby shop that had a track outside and held races on Sundays. My son would do ok but he was racing with much older guys and it was hard for him not to react loosing. I did not race as my brain could not handle steering when coming to me So my truck was used as a back up just in case we could not get his fixed in time. It was pretty kool as the full suspension was adjustable for spring rates, weight of the shock oil, toe you name it. Then add different tires from tread types to how hard the foam incerts could be. You would run the cars / truck as real race cars with all the extra parts needed to race. What was also nice the track was changed each week just before race day so no one could get track time till race day. We also have a smaller car we ran inside during winter but was held on week nights so son did not go to many of them because of school nights. Dave ----

Back in the early 80's I some buddies did 4x4 racing but we did not have big tracks to do it on. We used moto-x tracks, little short ones. First we would do a timed run. 2 truck 180 from each other and once we got times they would match us up to the closest times and run 10 truck for 10 laps. It was ruff on trucks and bodies (yours) bouncing around for 10 laps! Some of the guys we raced with were just starting to build trucks like yours but were to big / fast for the tracks we ran on. Their sons now race in SCORE out west. We also did not have all the fancy suspension parts you can get today, it was just starting to come out back then. We also used the same trucks for 100 yard sand / hill drags and hill climbs or timed runs through the woods (1 truck at a time). It was hard to get 1 truck to do every thing good so you went for just "well" LOL I got to say I would not even think of doing that racing today as I know my body could not take it. I guess thats why I went to auto cross racing then 1/4 mile drag racing LOL. Dave ----