FuzzFace2

Jenny would be the way to go but I lost mine many years ago Man did he do everything the hard way. A power washer is cheap and can be used on a lot of stuff as does a gas power air compressor and cheap spray gun for paint. Remember I did everything he was doing so I know how to get it done and not bust your azz. I found you need to scrape off the heavy grease & dirt. Putty knife, old butter knife screw driver all work good to get the first wave of dirt off. If the stuff is really baked on and not worried about paint or turning ALUM. dark oven cleaner works pretty good. I have also used Zep Purple de-greaser in my parts washer. It will take paint off parts and think turn ALUM. dark but been a while since I used it. It will also do a number on your skin so wear long rubber gloves as you should with any of the de-greasers. I guess you could cut it, I did not. I have mixed Simple Green and Awsome degreaser (dollar store) in a pump sprayer and sprayed it on everything keeping it wet. Can use stiff brushes to work the degreaser into areas and loosen it up. I then use a gas powered power washer to rinse everything off. If I have to I re-spray with the pump sprayer and let it soak in even more and rinse with the power washer. BTW I do not use anything in the power washer, it is just water to rinse off what I have degreaser on. Dave ----

Oh yes know of both buildings and the beer store across the street from the LS building Do you know if the big LS roll is still outside the building? I did not know winter green would do that to rubber. Now if I will remember it when I need it is the real story. Dave ----

Looks like you have a project on your hands I dont know if you know of this web site or if they would have anything that may help you but give it a look over. https://www.mytractorforum.com/ I have a John Deere 445 garden tractor that I bought when I moved here in NC back in 2015. It has a 22 hp V-Twin water cooled fuel injected Kawasaki. Tractor has more options than my 81 F100 pickup LOL The side covers were broken when I got it but got worst over time and last few years ran with out them. Over the last month I have given it some much needed love. Replaced the leaking front crank seal, the side covers,hood, grille and painted the tins. I also upgraded the head lights with LED rock crawling lights in place of the 1156 bulbs. Tractor looks brand new and dont want to use it and get it dirty LOL Back when I first got it. Dave ----

Welcome from another FOG person Mine is a 81 F100 that I did a 4 year cab off frame rebuild. I have also done a few custom things to it. Welcome again Dave ----

I do like this if he can drop the front shaft as it would tell where the issue is. Dave ----

Good to hear you got it running When I started reading about buying the not needed parts I was like NNNNOOOO! Sorry to see you spent time and money on parts we knew would not work. So you are still running the feed back carb? You should be able to start pulling the feed back computer and wiring from the truck if you have not as it is not doing anything with part of the system missing. As said start from the inside. Unplug computer, push plug thru firewall and work the wires from there. Only wire I know of that is tied into the feed back harness is a wire to the oil psi wire. Dave ----

I fully agree with that, and not just on ice or snow but also in rain. I've not done it in Big Blue, but I have in Blue, which has AWD in addition to 4WD. And the difference when you hit serious ponding is amazing. Instead of being slowed and the truck wanting to go one way or the other it'll pull right through. It depends a lot on the road and the amount of rain. I don't do it on good roads that drain well or light rain. But when we are in a deluge or on roads that pond badly, meaning the lanes have ruts that hold water, I do it. And I can really tell the difference - or could until the "integrated wheel ends", aka automatic hubs, failed again. Bought new 86 K5 diesel Blazer sold with 235K At first snow I locked the hubs in and stayed that way all winter till spring and then un-locked. I would drive in 2wd as much as I could but when needed shift to 4 hi and could do it at speed as long as the rear wheels were not spinning, read going faster than the fronts. Once I did not need 4wd back to 2wd till spring. No need to jump out to lock / un-lock hubs because of patches of snow With the 02 Durango no hubs to lock, just turn the knob on the dash. Up north once in a while I would flip it to 4 lo and drive across the long dry parking lot, back to 2wd to turn around and back to 4 lo back to the other end just to get lube moving. To tell the truth I have not done this in almost 8 years as there is no need to 4x4 here in NC where I am at. They get anything and they shut down the state Dave ----

Bob vary well posted I am also of the school that the timed ones are junk and should never be sold but who am I right? I have installed a few controllers in different things over the years and none were timed. I also never had any issues with the feed back of slowing and the controller slowing more, etc. on any of the cars or trucks we towed with. The old school controller that hooked to a brake line was the bees knees but as said dose not play well with ABS brakes. I have bought 1 of the brand Gary uses, (the others I dont remember the brands) one I bought thru Uhaul, 1 from Etrailer.com on line, and the last I picked up in Northern Tool for the 81 F100. So far it has worked as it should when I pulled the car clubs 20 ft enclosed trailer 2 times and will tomorrow to a show. Follow the instructions that come with the controller and you will be good. Dave ----

Nice job on the regulator mounting. Do you run Ethanol free or Ethanol gas? I run nothing but Ethanol as it can be found every where around here. When I installed the used tanks in my truck they looked good and clean. Well I had to pull the top off the carb for some reason and seen very fine rust on the bottom of the bowl. I also run 2 filters after the fuel pump. A plastic kind of see thru and the screw it at the carb. Both trapped a lot of rust and were replaced and the carb cleaned out. I am guessing the top of the tank or tanks had the rust? In finding why a had a bad miss and bucking under load I swapped out the carb for a cheap Ebay one I had on the shelf. After running it a bit and running way to lean I pulled the top to see what it would take to adjust the needle and the bowl floor was clean. So I guess the old carb and filters trapped all the rust? I fill both tanks at the same time and I use them up quite fast so not worried of more rusting. But with all that rust not once did I have the carb flooding. Dave ----

Starting think 83 is when the 300 started with the feed back system. As posted if any 1 thing is not working the system goes in to limp mode, locks the timing and richens the carb. So if you replaced the feed back dist. with an HEI unit I bet you are in limp mode now. FYI if the temp sensor for the feed back system, different than the dash gauge sender, you are in limp mode. What most do after installing a HEI or pre-feed back 83 dist and pre-feed back 83 carb is start at the computer inside the truck. Unplug the harness from computer and remove the box. Fish the wire harness out the firewall. You may want to open this harness up to better follow the wires. Just follow the wires and remove 1 at a time. As was posted I think only the oil PSI is tied in and you cut the wire on the computer side not the sender side. The temp sensor wires(2?) go out to the Tstat housing and plug in there, just unplug. Other wires go to the old dist. and coil. Coil can be removed as the HEI has it built in and I think the wires to the old dist. unplug from the trucks main harness on the left fender well. You may have a power wire just follow it back and cut at the end. At this point the computer and wiring should be disconnected from the truck and removed. Block off the hole in the firewall and you are done. I have not done this as my truck is a late 80 making it a 81 pre-feed back. Dave ---- BTW the dash gauge sender for the 300 is on the right side of the block, kind of under and to the rear. The wire should run around the rear of the valve cover to the sender.

And if you have dual tanks you get 2 containers Dave ----

I think it is the angle the picture was taken. If you look at the right rail you can just make out bend up and maybe on the left? (cross your eyes ) Dave ----

Are you sure on that I only say this because that same cross member on the flare side, a non-rear tank truck, is not the same cross member used with the rear tank. If you look at the pictures the non-rear tank CM is a little thing and looks to be bolted to the lower part of the frame rail. The rear tank CM is a beefy one and bolted top & bottom. Also the tank CM would have slots & holes for the straps that go on top & bottom of the tank. So look the CM over closely to make sure it will hold a rear tank. Dave ----

It is the bolt in cross member that fits just in front the rear tank that the straps fit to. The cross member I used was from a 2/81 F100 style side long bed dual tank truck. It bolted in place on my 11/80 F100 short bed flare side, no rear tank. Dave ----

OUCH and then shipping Dave ----

I just checked my build pictures and the non-rear tank cross member is a little thing of a cross member like the one on the truck in the 2nd picture and looks to bolt to the bottom of the frame rail. The rear tank cross member is beefer to support the weight of a full gas tank and bolts to the top& bottom of the rail. Still like to know if the 87> rear tank cross member could be used on the <86 trucks. I think it can as I dont see why not? I used all factory parts to mount the rear tank, cross member, top & bottom straps but that is where it ends for a flare side. Filler neck and door on the fender will have to be made from parts gotten. I also said the door has to be from a flare side because of the size and shape to fit the contour of the fender. I posted pictures on FTE post he started. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1744451-gas-tank-swap-side-for-rear.html Dave ----

Dave is in the house Dave has a thread going over on the other Ford truck forum and thought I answered the questions but he dose bring up something. That bolt in cross member that sits in front of the rear tank I know is different on trucks with and with out a rear tank. With a rear tank it has the slots and holes for the straps that hold the tank in place where the non-tank truck do not have them. I also cant remember if the shape is different? They both bolt in. That something brought up - dose the 2 different cross members have apart number being they are different and bolt in? Also would the rear tank cross member for the 87> truck use the same cross member? Dave ----

Welcome to the forum. I have to ask why the NOS radiator are they giving it away? If not do you want to trust something that has been moved around a bunch as old as this is where you can end up with leaks from cracks. I know you are not going for a 100 point show truck if you are swapping out the motor for a different one the truck never came with so why the NOS radiator? Me I would look into a new one that would fit your truck with the motor you want to put in it. If the 80 did not come with a 302 then look up 81 or 82 with a 302. If you go much later the way the radiators get mounted changed. Just my .02 Dave ----

Yep weld the rods and holes to make them round again. Been there done that And what do you do when all the linkage has been fixed to remove the play I just pull the pedal back up with my toe Dave ----

I dont know about Ford but IIRC AMC Torker had AMC cast into it making it a factory part. It might have been done to meet racing spec of how many had to be sold to be used in a class race? Kind of like NHRA and the SS class had to have the manf. part numbers on the motor parts as per the rules. I ran a Torker on my AMC 304 & 360 drag motors and liked it. Dave ----

Yes, it is definitely there. My '84 F150 was a radio delete truck (and cigarette lighter delete lol). The wires for both were back there. The one that got me on the stripper trucks was the deletion of the passenger door interior light switch. That hole gets plugged on the bare bones trucks. That has got to be the cheapest switch in the whole truck lol...surely it was cheaper than the cigarette lighter! Every penny counted, I guess. I thought the motor clutch fan was a AC only thing As for Webber or Holley carb? Any of the Webber carbs I have dealt with I could not get them to run right and would never get one. Now Holleys I like, have both v2 and v4 models, used both for racing v2 off road v4 off road & drag racing. Even have a pit box with Holley parts, gaskets / jets etc. for when I went racing. So I think you know how I would go with the carbs. I dont know if I would go with a v4 carb on a straight six after seeing posts of issues. Even the Holley v4 390 carb, smallest that I know of, I think is too large for most street use. What is nice of the Webber carb is the 2 different size throttle bores. The smaller being the primary gives good throttle response and MPG and the larger for top end power when needed, kind of like a v4 carb. Son had 2 different Webbers on his Jeep with a 258 six and could not get them to run right. He now has a Holley 2300 v2 in a 350 CFM, it also comes in a 500 CFM size, and it runs great. Dave ----

I've dealt with him twice, and he is one of the rudest people I have run into on Ebay and I refuse to buy from him. I inquired about a transmission crossmember that he hadn't listed, but had clearly mentioned to ask him if you see something in a photo. He asked if I could send him a "core" to hold the transmission up, and I said yea, I can do that, no worries. He then stopped responding with no reasoning. I asked him once more a year ago about a different part, and he said make me an "offer". I gave him a reasonable offer based on what similar parts were going for + a little for his time and effort. He proceeded to once again stop responding, and then listed the part at 3 times what I offered, and even put in the listing "If it doesn't sell, I'll keep it for my own truck". He's a jerk 100%, but he knows what he has and he's definitely smug about it. Thanks for the heads up. I have not looked at my F100 4x2 but I cant see why you cant get hooks that even have the keeper tab so what ever is on the hook will not come off and mount them to the bottom of the frame rail? At most would need to drill 2 holes to mount and I think I would use something like a large flat washer to spread the load over a larger area on the inside of the frame. Dave ----

I got to ask why a 102 wip From what I remember back in the day they move around a lot so if mounted to the rear bumperit could hit the body and cause damage. If you go with say dual mirror mount I cant see why they would not mount to our flat brackets. Been a long time since I had them on a 86 K5 Blazer but had to take them off when work built a parking garage and the ant. were too tall. On my Durango there was no place to mount a CB ant. and I did not want to mount one or need a CB all that much. Only time I would have a CB was when pulling the car trailer and I would use a magnet mount on the roof. Heck I dont even use the CB in my work truck, 18 wheeler, as most of my driving is local. Also it does not bring in / reach out that far and I am not spending my money on a Co. truck for something I dont use. The places I do need it for picking up loads it works just fine. Just my .01 Dave ----

Most 3 on the tree trucks have been swapped to aftermarket floor shifter as you cant get parts for it and most are just plan wore out. Depending what you plan on using the truck for there are other transmission options some have over drive. As for dual tanks a lot has to do with the motor / fuel system the truck has. The 300 six system is stupid simple, 3 port valve, but the way the factory has the wiring for the switch / gauge is a whole different harness. Yes you can add to the non-dual factory harness just need to open it up a little. As for a larger tank that depends on where the tank is you have now. Only option I know of is a 38 gallon rear tank, replaces the 19 gallon, but you lose the spare tire or it hangs down pretty low. No options for the front / side tanks that I know of. Brakes are nice to have if you want to stop Power or non-power? I have a project car that uses a pivot between the firewall and booster that first rusted and would not move, our truck dont have this but I can see the pedal pivot under the dash on pivot making the pedal hard. This same project car got brake fluid and water in the booster and ever since the pedal got hard like something rusted inside? I need to send it out for a rebuild as you cant get it thru local parts stores. As you know the calipers & wheel cly. could be rusted. My trucks brakes were hardly able to be call brakes when I first got it. I had to replace everything. I also added power brakes, booster / master and pedals from my parts truck, everything else (caliper cups & wheel cly) was the same size between them. On the dash pad they do make replacements but they are big $$$. Unless doing a 100 point trailer queen a dash topper looks and works great. I have one on my truck and unless you really look you cant tell it is just a topper. Dave ----

I thought manual transmission was standard and any auto transmission was an option? With that I would think 3 on the tree would be standard and any other manual like the T18 / NP435 would be options a long with any auto? Your truck have power brakes or steering? Think them would also be options? My 81 F100 flare side had PS, T18, flare side and 2 tone paint from the factory no other options that I know of. In my 4 year frame off rebuild of the truck I have added other factory options and some that Ford should have had like dual tanks on a flare side. I will be following the work you will be doing on your project. Dave ----