FuzzFace2

First I am far from an expert But I stayed in a Holiday inn once I think the guys nailed everything pretty good. I used Tabco for the floor pans, rockers, cab corners and that weather strip channel. I did a 4 year cab off frame rebuild so as it was going back together if it was bad it got replaced or rebuilt. You have the brake rebuild down. If you replace everything now you know you will not need to look at it again for some time and know it will stop when you want it to. On the oil leaks because I had the motor out I replaced the oil pan gasket, side cover & valve cover gaskets as I thought they were all leaking. When I got the truck on the road I had another oil leak that took some time to find. It was the gasket at the top of the timing cover. I replaced gasket and the front seal at that time and so far no oil leaks from the motor. Here is a link to pictures I took during the rebuild. If you have any questions just ask and when I check in I will try and answer them. http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100 BTW I love my 300 six and NP435 granny transmission truck. Dave ----

Well my fenders came off my Ranger F100 parts truck and I was able to put on Custom F100 badges. I am thinking the holes will be the same. You could pry yours and the others off and see. Also that molding on the white fender how is it held on and dont hurt it as I am sure you can sell it. There may be holes in the fender for that molding. As for selling could try for $40 OBO Thing is are you willing to ship and if so that may be more than what they are worth. Could play it forward and give them away local pick up only and show the pictures. As for stopping the rust look at the new fenders and you will see there is no easy way to spray under coat in there and I would not use that on my fenders. Look at Eastwood site for internal frame coating. It comes with a straw and a end that sprays 360* Use that on each fender in that areas and it will coat it to keep it from rusting. Eastwood also has other rust fighters do a search for "rust". Dave ----

As long as the reamer has a guide that fits in the other end to ream parallel so what happened to mine will not happen to you. Dave ----

If the enamel paint was done not long ago then it may lift it but if it has been on the truck for say 5 years I would say you would be ok and not have lift issues. Do the first few coats light so it dries fast. When the coats a put on heavy / wet and they take longer to dry they have more of a chance to eat into the enamel and lift. I dod not know when the last enamel paint job was put on my truck and never gave it a thought about using lacquer primer and lifting. I did not get any lifting. Dave ----

I had to use a MAP gas torch and a BMF hammer to drive the pins out on my 81. I did not have a press and I should have bought one then as it was a sign. Because of no press I had to farm out the bushing being pressed out & in and reamed to size. Well the shop I was told by 3 people to use, the only shop, did not press the bushings in enough for the seals to fit. Then a few months later when I went to put everything together the pins would only go thru the 1 side of the bushings at a time. When they reamed the bushings they did 1 size for the pin to fit then turned it around and reamed the other bushing so the pin would not fit thru both sides Because it was so long and no way for them to ream them right with out new bushings and I was not going to spend $100 just for bushings I used a wheel cyl hone and had to tap the pins in with a hammer. Yea I was not a happy camper! Dave ----

I am seriously considering a Saginaw upgrade, but that will take some bracket sleuthing from all I have seen. I have the bracket off the 86 Bronco, but that’s not enough. From all I see, I need the brackets off a VAN. Not sure the years with which this will work tho for my 1980. I read the page Gary made on the Saginaw upgrade. It is helpful, but for my fitment, no one has done anything from what I can see. I do not know how long this pump will last. There are NEW pumps by….Lares I think for 180. All the rest, including the Motorcraft are Remans. I thought progress in society meant things get better. NOPE! I was happy the project took less time than it did on install—3 hrs the first go round. This time, an hour. Got savvy at getting that pulley off. What did you put on your restore Dave? You had to have changed out the PS pump. Yes? My parts truck came with a Ford pump but no motor or York AC brackets and I needed the AC brackes as I wanted AC. Now my truck came with a motor and at the time thought is was for a F series truck. It also came with the SAG PS pump but no AC brackets Now I do not know what the motor is out of but when building and trying to find AC brackets I was told with that SAG pump it was from a van with a 300 six. With that said I was now looking for AC brackets from a van that used the SAG pump. Now I dont remember the years of vans but they had to use a V belt so guessing before EFI and if they follow the same rules as the trucks that would be before 1987 and maybe back to 1980? Sorry I just dont remember the years. Wounder if you were to look up PS pumps for vans if it will list the type of pump used? Then you would know what year(s) to look for the brackets. Unless someone (Gary?) has access to van parts and able to break down what pumps were used? I have not looked at our documents to see if it will list pumps for vans have you? Dave ---- edit it was not really a restore as much as a rebuild and replace what was bad. The PS pump was not one of them parts LOL

I have heard Cardone QA has gone to crap lately on other things so not a shock on the pump. Good to hear you had a back up but it just is a PITA to have to do the job 2 times Dave ----

With the manual & over drive sticks coming up thru the floor and being the trans stick is 8" back farther I dont think I can put the "front of seat holder" in place. That is why all my drinks have to be bottles so it can be placed on the seat. Then I just worry it dont roll off in a turn Done yesterday I have been getting a little more pinging than I would like to hear so I took a hammer and gave the dist. a few love taps. When I get the time I will put a light to it but I was at 14* BTDC so going beck some could not hurt. Heading to the 2nd show of the day and back home it seamed to do the trick but want to do a little more testing. I also want to see what it does to the AFR before I lean out the carb some as I feel it is still to rich. I said 2nd show earlier had a pancake breakfast for the American Legion next town over that the car club went to and after went a few doors down to O'Reilly's auto part for a cruise in. They are a sponsor for the clubs Oct 1st show and wanted to show them what we have. Another club also showed up by FB invite with some of their cars. Had maybe 15 cars. Dave ----

A little late but if that is factory paint it was not done in acrylic lacquer but acrylic enamel single stage, no clear coat as that would be 2 stage. I know the go to primer now days is epoxy but if you check with your local body supply store they should be able to sell you what can be used. One question they may ask is what kind of paint will be using but may not be a issue now days as I dont think you can get acrylic lacquer any more? Now I used acrylic lacquer primer on my truck and you can paint over it with just about anything but I used acrylic enamel single stage paint. Only think to know is acrylic lacquer primer will let moisture thru to anything under it like bondo / bare metal so should not be left outside. Mine was kept in the garage while doing body work till it was painted. But any question you should talk to where you get the supplies from. Dave ----

Yes them pipes look good Did you block the cross over ports in the head / intake? I think that is where the EGR port gets the gases from so if they are blocked that should also help let that gasket live as it would not have any gases at it. Dave ----

I would start by looking for good strong spark when this happens. If that turns out to be good dont over look today's gas as the issue. It is a known fact motor is hot stop in to a store and come out a bit later and the motor has a hard time starting, cranks normal and has good spark. The carb gets what is called heat soaked. The carb sitting in the center of a hot motor (v8) gets heated and boils the gas in the carb. Being the gas vapors are heavier than air goes to the floor of the intake flooding the motor. A sign of this is when it dose start it runs ruff till it clears out. The fix it to keep the carb a cool as you can. Some use a plastic spacer if they can or thick gaskets. On v8's blocking off the intake cross overs that heat the intake but if you live where it gets cold and you drive the truck when cold you can had other issues. On a 300 six motor make sure the flapper valve between the intake & exh manifold works and is not stuck pointing hot exh gases to the intake. Sometimes the brand of gas can be a cause so can try a different brand to see if that helps. But you need to keep the carb as cool as you can when the motor is not running, yea not so easy LOL Dave ----

Yes on my 81 w/300 six I am using a flex hose for a Jeep I got off Ebay IIRC. It is a little too long but it works. I also had the plastic part that fits the radiator support that the hose fits on. Dave ----

I don't have a pig in this race but what is traffic like on a holiday weekend? Sitting in traffic when it is 90°+ out is not fun. Just something to think of. Dave ----

Both are right on what they posted but .......... The 1000 rpm at idle could be the speed screw needs adjusting. First do we need to pass smog and if so do they look under the hood to see what is in place or not? Do they check the tail pipe with a sniffer for gas levels? If not then it might have been best to get a non-feed back carb off the bay but rebuilding that carb was a good start so your son knows how it is done back in the day. When he was done and motor off looking down into the carb if the throttle is moved you should see a stream of fuel spray into the carb. If not the accel pump is not working. There is a small plastic hose that needs to be hooked up just right in the bowl for this to work. Yes make sure the choke is closed all but maybe 1/8". Also how is he or you starting the truck? You start it differently than a EFI car or truck. You need to pump the throttle at least 1 time to the floor and up. This does 2 things, set the choke closed and gives a spray or fuel down carb to start. Sometimes you may need to give it 2 pumps for more gas to spray before starting. If the choke is adjusted right and closes it should pull on the fast idle cam and keep the idle up till the motor has a little heat in it. Fast idle needs to be adjusted (there is a fast idle screw) when cold and choke is on so you dont have a lot of time to get this done LOL As the motor warms up the choke will open but till the throttle is moved the fast idle will stay on and the motor may race, just hit the throttle and it should come down to normal idle speed. The motor now up to temp you can adjust the idle speed as needed, there is a screw for this too. Now to start the motor when hot all that should need to be done is hit the key and it should fire up. Now with todays fuel the gas in the carb bowl can boil and cause the motor to become flooded. If it will not start by just turning the key hold the throttle to the floor and crank till it starts. Just a little lesson on how to start a motor that has a carb Dave ---- ps we can walk you thru any of the carb adjustments just let us know.

I do think the HVAC switch is a issue a little. If I go from say defrost to MAX AC it will not move the doors but if I go from defrost to Normal AC and let the doors move then to MAX it will go. But I also found when on MAX even less throttle make the door move back to defrost so I been leaving it on normal AC and been working just fine. I also have a heater core vacuum valve and that could be part of the problem and it dose not work when on normal AC I have not had time or its been to hot to look into this deeper. Dave ----

Well that is not the Ebrake switch but a low PSI of the normal brake system. If there is a leak, broken brake line, a valve moves inside that brass part and turns on the dash light telling something is wrong ......... like the brake pedal going almost to the floor was not a clue! Now to see if the light works when you first turn on the key the dash lights should lite up if good as a test of the bulbs. Same for the fasten seat belt light. I think you can short the 2 wires and it should turn on the dash light / wiring. Mine only has 1 wire and I go to ground to test the light / wiring. The Ebrake did not have a light on the early 80's at least not my 81's Dave ----

Are you going to do the work or you looking for factory cloth to have a shop recover them? I would say if a shop have them get something close unless this is a show truck and has to be 100% factory then you will need to look at SMS for the cloth and have a shop sow it up. As for a kit you can do part of a problem what I find is what different placed call a "cover kit" Is it a blanket "cover" or a factory replacement of the bottom & back of the bench seat they call "cover kit"? I would love to get a factory or close to it kit to redo the bench seat in my truck and what I am finding there is nothing like it so may just get something close and give it a shot of doing it myself? Dave ----

Gary do we have a part number for the Tee check valve 19A563? The ones I have picked up from the parts stores dont seam to work because every time I am on the throttle it goes from AC vents to defrost. Thanks Dave ----

Dont feel to bad I was also working in the engine bay and the HVAC was working 1 min. and not the next I started checking for vacuum and had it up to the firewall in the engine bay but not inside the truck? After an hour of checking I found the plastic line broke as it went thru the rubber grommet. Had a heck of a time trying to push a rubber hose thru to get vacuum to the HVAC controls. Dave ----

lol I dont think there much more anyone can add to the paint description. Yours must be factory ones right? They look a bit more wagon wheel like than mine. Mine are american racing wheels and the openings are more like rounded triangles where yours looks more like spokes. I had 10" wheels with 31 x 10.5 x 15 tire and the tires did not wear good. I then switched to a 8" wheel and new tires on the same truck. 86 K5 Blazer diesel and they wore a lot better. On the 2 tone paint and pin stripe (decal) or not no one knows if the truck should or not have it as no one has said mine should have it at any of the shows I been to. I also dont know if the roof should of been painted white or not as I could not tell and was to much work to paint so left it red LOL I need to get a new picture with the lettering on the gate in white. Dave ----

Only people that know flare sides know they did not come with moldings but it is your truck and if you like the look with the moldings who are we to say other wise It's your truck build it YOUR WAY Dave ----

Welcome You are a little more north & east from me as I am about 30 min south east of Raleigh, Angier NC. Can you post up a picture of the solenoid & wiring. Either the PO wired it wrong (hope) or a fuse link is bad as they bolt to the solenoid. Dave ----

3M makes a Drip Check sealer just for this in a tooth paste tube and I used it on my truck. Yes use wire wheel and treat the rust before adding the sealer https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067210/ This is not the same as seam sealer used when sealing fire wall to cowl or floor pans. Dave ----

What I did not see other than it is a 80 with a 300 six / 4.9 motor. Do you still run the factory log exh manifold? Will you be running a cat or 2? Will you be running a full factory exh. system, maybe less cat(s), but tail pipe all the way out back like the factory system? Long or short bed truck? I ask because any and all will change the sound that comes out the end pipe. When I first got my 81 F100 short bed truck on the road it had EFI manifolds and factory Y pipe. I did not run a cat but did run a factory round muffler and tail pipe out behind the tire. I got to say when running you could not hear it, way to quite for me. A year later the inlet to the round muffler started to pull out so I replaced the full system from the Y pipe back (94 F truck system) but I went with a Thrust welded oval muffler, its a bolt on from the parts store for the truck, no cat. At idle I think it sounds like a v8 with a nice muffler, cant tell you what it sounds like at speed when outside. Inside you can hear it has a different muffler, it is not loud. How loud can a straight six be? Dave ----

I will see what I can find when I can might be a day or 2 before I can look Dave ----