FuzzFace2

Almost a little more tapping to keep overspray off the frame then prime, scuff and paint I am home now, short day at work. I should take drinking water bottles out of my car to the frig in the garage so I may see what I can do when out there. A nap sounds good too, got up at 3am for work. Dave ----

The temperature this weekend was nice for working on the truck but the rain was not for what I wanted to do. Because of the rain over the weekend I had no work, being cool and no rain I hit the garage at 4am. Pulled the truck outside so I could start cleaning for paint. After sweeping, blowing and sweeping 2 to 3 more times and a run to the hardware store I started setting up the "paint booth". Set up is putting plastic sheets over a car & sons furniture I cant move and down 2 walls. It is not so much for the over spray but dust control. Got the truck back in the garage and used plain water and clean cotton rag to wipe it down as it still had some dried wet sanding slime on it that had to come off before tapping it up for primer & Paint. A few hours later, 5pm, the truck is all most taped up. I have to wrap up the frame to keep over spray off and need to get it as low as I can to reach the roof and I bought 2 platforms and still to high. I did stop half hour for breakfast and little over an hour to cut some of the grass as we were starting to loose the cats in it. They are talking of it getting hot again over the holiday weekend but not in to the mid 90's so I hope to get primer and some paint on the truck. Dave ----

X2 Now you said no vacuum when motor is off to pull vapors from the bowls to the canisters but .... The charcoal mush have some action to pull vapors from the tank(s) and bowl(s) with the motor off other wise how does it work and why use them? I think the charcoal is pulling in anything from around it and if plumbed to the tank(s) & bowl(s) it will pull vapor. Still don't know why with the testing you did it run leaner and was harder to start? Dave ----

I think the thing to think about with this gauge package and the 160 mph / 8k tach is it would be used most of the time in a truck that is not stock. Who would install it in a bone stock restore? So with a hot motor you would be over the 4k limit and where I live you could be in the 80 mph range of the stock speedo. Speed limit here is 70 mph and most are doing 75 - 80+ and with out an OD trany you could be in the 3K+ of the tach. Heck my 02 Durango with OD & 3.92 rear gear is a little over 2k at 75mph so I know a non OD truck would be in the 3k range. I also think with the speedo going to 160 mph, people would be less likely trying to hit the max of 85 mph on the stock speedo and more so with a hot motor. I know I would not try in in my car that has the 160 speedo, OD trany and a hot motor, I like to see tomorrow! Dave ----

[Thinking out loud]If he had the Evap vents added or the factory vent holes you also have the vent tubes with BIG openings so how would pressure build in the bowl to push fuel any where let alone out the ventures? If the bowl was sealed with motor off then I might see that happening.[/thinking out loud] Other than the large Evap hole used with the Evap fittings over the small factory holes the lid has no other changes between the 2 right? How can just a lid change cause the carb to run lean? What happens when you cap the 2 Evap vents, yes I know the bowls would not be vented other than thru the tubes but think it would be ok for the drive way testing. It would have been nice to test that lid before the Evap vents were added to see if it was a lid thing or a vent thing. Now running lean with my next thinking and what Gary saying of the bowl pressure: When running and air rushing into the opening of the carb where the bowl vent tubes are air could air be forced down the tubes and if no place to exit, build psi in the bowl? Now we have a small vet hole not in the air flow so could this balance out the psi coming down the tubes? You now changed this opening size and made it larger so more air out than in so where ever that psi was pushing the gas is no longer there and runs lean. Wait the Evap path from carb bowls to canisters is closed when running right? If so forget what I posted above and running lean unless it is not closing off then the bowls would build psi when running as the air down the tubes has no where to go. Sorry for running on & on Dave ----

All the factory manifolds be it the stock truck, the HD or the EFI manifolds they are all cast iron and from what I have heard over my years if you want to weld cast iron you need to heat it first. I do like the "bolt it to a head" to try and keep it from warping but you would need to heat both the head & manifold as a unit because as soon as you bolt the hot manifold to the cold head it acts as a heat sink and pulls the heat from the manifold. Remind me / us why use the HD over the stock truck manifold - pro / con as I don't remember now. Wonder if anyone has done flow testing on the 3 types of manifolds and if so what did they come up with? Dave ----

If you want 4x4 drive train then I would say it is worth the $200. Maybe the cab is good? But the right door & both fenders are gone and the hood may have rot by the hinge mounts like 1 of mine does. What is the frame like? I gave a long bed frame away, they paid for shipping, and that helped 2 people. I did not need to cut it up to get rid of it and the other person needed a frame because of rot. What is the insides like(no pictures), bezels, door panels just to name a few. Dave ----

The custom gauges I installed in my 70 AMC Javelin also has a 8K tach, 160 MPH speedo and a quad gauge on the right And I have had them for many years now. Dave ----

Ok lets think how this could happen? If I understand this the vents that were added are open to the canisters when the motor is off. The stock bowl vents are pretty tall so thinking gas would not be pushed up them to the intake. So the fuel would go to the canisters before the intake no? Now being it did not even try to start maybe it would have taken more than the push to close the choke to get it to light off, read too lean and may need 2 full pumps? I also don't think you needed to swap the non-vented lid when all that would need to be done is pull the hoses and cap the barbs no? Or did the other lid have that small pin hole vent in it? Think he needs to do more testing and report back to us LOL Dave ---- edit: Just thinking all this stuff was made for a different gas blend than we have today could that be a cause of your out come?

No I don't have any information on the Webber carbs. I don't know where my son got them (2) from but what I remember they were newish looking. He might have bought a kit to replace the old carb on his Jeep, there are places that sell this to the Jeep crowd. Think we rebuilt 1 of them but with both I could not get them to idle right for some reason? I do think if we could have gotten it to work that was the way to go. As Gary pointed out with the small primary would be like the stock YF till you kicked it in the azz. The other thing that has to be kept in mind is the intake manifold. If the passages are to large the flow will be slower and the fuel will drop out of the air and pool on the floor of the intake manifold causing issues. As they say it is the whole package that has to work together. Dave ----

Holley makes a 390 CFM v4 vacuum secondary carb that the Jeep / AMC 258 six guys use. Holley also makes a model 2300 v2 carb in a 350 CFM & 500 CFM. This is the bolt on for the MC 2100 / 2150 carbs. The 500 CFM is a little much for the 258 six but when you have one on the shelf that's what you use. My son did have 2 of the Webber / Holley carbs you talk of on his Jeep before the 500 CFM but we could not get them to run right and why the 500 went on. This is also the carb Clifford sells with his kit. I think if I could get the Webber / Holley carb to work run right would be the way to go but I have tuning parts for the Holley 5200 and would try the 350 CFM carb. Then again with all the stock "logs" out there maybe try my hand at 2 or 3 stock YF carbs :) You would not need to weld them together just the 2 end ones to close them off and use hose & clamps to join them together, don't they do this on some of the bike carbs? You could even make water heat plates under each carb to plumb hot water to the intake. Then again I like KISS and why a kept the stock carb and only went with EFI exh. manifolds. Dave ----

Great idea! Hadn’t thought of that. You guys don't give me a lot of hope on the 2 new ones I installed on my project. I can tell you so far with just 5 gal of gas in each tank the needle does move for both tanks to a point I am happy with. I don't care if they read full as long as they read close to empty and still have a few gal in the tanks and they do. Dave ----

As said looking good Did you or they check out the cowl area for bad / cracked sealer? The weather is to be cooler this weekend so I hope to do a cleaning of my garage, get the truck in primer and if I have enough time get the white on the cab. Race is on who will have paint done first LOL Oh you have yours half done Dave ----

As you said no need to rush them and maybe have the paint not come out right or you rush to put it back together and hurt something. Dave ----

If you decide you want to go the clock route let me know. I've got a couple that I should be able to test out once I get my truck back together. If at least one works, you are welcome to it. Better to use than stored in a box. I am also interested in Perry's progress... very promising. Thanks for the offer. When you do test them (no rush on my part) and find a good one please let me know as I believe all wood bezels have the cut outs for the clock and to convert the weave to take a decal would be a lot of work. When you go to test the ones you have I would like to see what the wiring on the truck side looks like so I can hunt it down in mine. Dave ----

Looking good. So was it this weekend or next the truck is going to have paint on it for the show? Dave ----

The wood radio bezel in the picture as you saw is made for the clock and NO I don't have that assy. to install. I have a complete (gauge & radio) black weave set that does not have the cut out for the clock that are broken but can be repaired with glue. I have been thinking I can then lay down a wood decal. I have also been following the post on here from Perry that is working on a decal set for the different wood grains & the brushed ALUM. and if a good price would go with them when they are for sale. If I came across a clock set up that works and is cheap I may go for it but I also don't know how it gets powered up and don't know if that part of the wiring is still in the truck as other wires in that area were cut that I had to repair. Dave ----

Most likely not. Paint is money why put paint on something that is going to be covered or another color over the top of it? They did not put paint under vinyl tops because of the money saved and why they rusted out. So no way they would paint the whole truck 1 color then put a different color over some of it. Where I found the white paint on mine is up to high on the pillar to be over spray and why I think the top might have been painted. Dave ----

That's a valid concern. None of these parts are super tight with their clearances. I pulled a few latches from some jy doors (in case this project was a bust) and tested them vs the coated ones after applying the grease. The coated ones work just as well and seem to have a little more 'snap' to them. For the door latches it took a lot of blasting and a lot of cleaner to get the old grease out of all the nooks and crannies but the aerosol lithium spray did a good job of replacing it all. None of the parts I've done aside from possibly the sliding seat tracks have been tight enough on clearance that the coating has caused an issue. I like seeing the parking brake all black also. It wasn't too bad to do - you just have to drill out the stepped rivet that holds the handle on and then force out (after heating) the hard rubber grommet the handle goes through. Yes, I coated the channels also. Everyone that gets in your truck wants to look at the innards of the doors to see if they are shiny, right? If you plan on getting your vent windows tinted and you have the door apart anyways, I would recommend going ahead and removing the glass completely. After disassembling the vent window (being careful to not twist the threaded rod), I removed the glass from the frame by heating it in the oven. I then coated the frame and dropped it and the glass off at the window shop. They tinted the windows and reinstalled them in the frame. This allows the tint to look seamless/factory. They are a jumble for sure. I've got a few doors in the shop and the spares that I pulled from the junkyard still have the rods on them that I plan on using as guides to put them all back together. If ever needed, I can add a photo of them. While on the topic of coating things, I'll go ahead and add the accelerator pedal. This one was really a bit of a pain to do but I do like the look of it over the somewhat rusty original. Scott, I got to say that puts it over the top. Sorry to say the parts inside the doors wont even get painted just cleaned (done before stored), lubed and installed. Being I started this rebuild in Dec of 2015 and hope to get paint on it by years end or sooner and it being a driver I skipped detailing some of the little things like the throttle pedal. I had to replace my vent window frames and the replacement ones the glass has a green tint but the door glass no tint. I have looked into getting the door glass tinted but being the glass is out I may try and do the tint myself. I will most likely paint the frames before I install them, don't remember what they look like now LOL Keep up the great work Dave ----

On every truck I buy or work on, I try to document ALL its tags & labels ASAP: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1133854/thumbnail/tags.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/1133856/thumbnail/20180526_120510.jpg The truck was made to run a type of plug at a gap the factory gave it why mess with it? I have also seen posted of people having issues using the new double this or that plug and it not running right. Run a gap to large and the ICM has to work harder, read out of factory spec. and shortens its life. Anyone remember when GM came out with the HEI and the plugs were gapped to 60? Yep burned up ICM and burned thru rotors as that was the shortest path to ground, think they backed it down to 45 - 50 gap. You ask what did I use for my 81 300 six? I asked for plugs for an 81 300 six at Auto Zone, don't remember the gap but sure I used what was posted on the radiator label. Only thing I would maybe change is the heat range up or down as needed from stock. Dave ----

This is another scheme I have not seen before. Don't know if I have even seen it on a style side? Thanks Dave ----

Scott, thanks for the pictures why did I not think of Google search That black with white with the white roof is what I was talking of, I just never seen a flare side done like that, would that be factory on a flare? It is different and I don't know if I like it or not? I also now see in the pictures the tail gate has the 2nd color in it also and the letters in the base color was this also factory as I have only seen the letters in the 2nd color. As much as I would like to paint the letters back on the gate like the factory did I am going with decals with a twist if I can .... you will have to wait ;) Thanks again guys Dave ----

Thanks Steve, Yes the truck is red with the white in the center. Most of the two tone flares I have seen pictures of were like this. Then when sanding it the other day I found white up high on the B pillar and made me think maybe the roof was also white? I have seen style sides with the roof in the 2nd color just not a flare side other than below. Dave ----

Coated parts look great just wonder how well they will work after being coated? Just a little old grease with dirt in it they don't work to good. I do like the park brake assy. and the vent windows done as you can see them. You also doing the door glass channels inside the doors? Have you given any thought how all them rods go back in for the latches? I pulled mine years ago and they are in bags marked left & right but from what I remember they were fun to pull out so going to be twice the fun going back in .......... NOT! Dave ----

Scott, thanks for that. I don't know if they did the roof in the 2nd color on flares or not. Good question on the report wonder if someone that has gotten one and has two tone could answer as I am too cheap to get a report LOL Yes but when sanding the other day I saw white on the B pillar and why the question. Just have not seen a flare with the roof done in the middle color. Shirt says it all! Dave ----