FuzzFace2

Perhaps for this week only...but yes. So you don't feel so bad here is my mess. Work shop / storage room table. And the work bench down 1 wall in the bay area. I don't see me cleaning either one soon just the area I need to work in. Dave ----

LOL I did not know I did that till you said about the same 3 pictures, guess that is why you said I was proud I just did not pick up on it. Guess I need to check my posts when they post. Dave ----

I have 2 different reducers based on the temps. I have a lot of the med temp but only a little of the high temp. The high temp is hard to come by down here for some reason? I would think that would be all they use because how hot it is? The first coat I used the med. temp and it went on OK but was not really happy so the next 2 was the high temp and that went on really nice. It does not take a lot of reducer for thinning but I want to make sure I have enough so going to get more of the high temp to have on hand. If the first coat goes on bad the rest to follow will also be bad. Under side of the hood no one really sees and it was a small enough panel I could "fix it" by adjusting my speed, on the body I may not be able to do that like on the big roof and the flat hood. As said that spray gun got heavy! Dave ----

It did come out pretty good for the under side. I do see a little dust and 1 bug, had doors open but did not feel any breezes. I was kidding you about posting the SAME picture three times... Crap When I copied & paste I had to add the pictures back guess it did not copy the link right? I will fix it. Dave ----

Thanks It did come out pretty good for the under side. I do see a little dust and 1 bug, had doors open but did not feel any breezes. Before I paint the cab & bed I need to do a much better job cleaning the "spray booth" Man do I want to drive this thing! Even after the painting is done I still have to put everything back on and to do that spend more $$ for all weather strips and gaskets, want a rear slider, old one is junk and don't want the solid glass but will install it if I have too. Goal now is to get the paint done ASAP but I think the heat will tell me when I can do this. Dave ----

Put parts on and take parts off but this time it is all good! Last weekend I prepped the under side of the hood & cowl cover for paint but was to hot but we have a cool spell so I got out early to paint the under side of the hood & cowl cover. Wile I let it dry I cleaned out the bed of the truck so I could remove it at some point. Once some what dry I got the truck turned around so I could get the hood on the truck. You may ask "how do you install a hood by your self"? You hang it from the rafters and drive the truck under it. Get the hinge bolts started then lower it some so you can get the springs on. Once on it took a little bit of adjusting to get the gaps good and to close it felt good to see it on. I then turned the truck around again to pull the bed off. I used a few 2x4's, some straps and my engine hoist to lift it off the trucks frame. I then used my garden tractor & trailer and lowered the bed on the trailer and parked it outside by my race car & trailer and sons Jeep. With the bed off I was able to blow the body filler dust off the rear half of the frame. I will need to wash it all off before the bed goes back on as it is looking a little shabby. Tomorrow I hope to check the fuel gauges for the 2 tanks now that the bed is off and I may put some gas it a tank because with the hood on I cant cap the can I have been running the truck off of as it sits too high and would hit the hood. Dave ----

YES! Every Saturday, Sunday, and a couple days through the week. LOL I had to clean off part of the 10'x8' table in the workshop room to mix paint on. I also blew the dust off the 20' work bench in the bay part of the garage to try and keep the dirt out of the paint I will spray in a bit. As they say any flat spot (cars) that does not move in a week or more becomes a shelf. I have 2 of them, 1 in the far bay in my garage, has truck parts on it and the other in the house garage, this one only has the glass from that car on it so not too bad. If it makes you or anyone else feel better I can get pictures later of my messy table & bench LOL BTW I bet you now can find anything Dave ----

The picture of the EXH. manifolds I don't think a see the valve I was talking of so wonder how the hot gat is forced to the intake? That is close to the story I go of my truck. A father bought this truck from a farmer for a father & son project. When he gave it to his teenage son it was not appreciated and the child said something to the effect of "I'm not driving it." The father said fine and sold it to me. He did use it to move things about his land and to teach his son to drive stick. Being they were moving and son wanted no part of it it went up for sale. Dave ----

You guys are talking of tubes thru the frame to keep it from cracking have you looked at the Crown Vic front end swaps? From the factory the frame has tubes all the way thru and welded top & bottom. When doing this swap onto a truck frame you need to grab the tubes and weld them into the frame of the truck. The tubes are longer than the trucks frame is wide, looks to be about 1" to 2" longer. Most have the tube stick out above the trucks frame and have the CV cross member sit flat on the bottom of the trucks frame. So I guess they learned something? Dave ----

That is what I was thinking, all or nothing or have a mismatched set. Being I dont have the door panels parts I would be looking at the dash bezel parts & wheel so they all matched. Other than a Ford truck pro who would know the grain is not factory is they all match. And I am thinking only a pro would know of the door panel parts also if I do the dash & wheel. Now I do have sort of a question. I am thinking you could not apply this over a black weave bezel as there would not be enough "meat" for the over lay to stick to and the weave may show up from under it. What you think? Dave ----

It is nice that you can do this with your son. I have done some things with my son but nothing on a grand scale. It would have been nice to work together on my truck project. Now back to the motor: Some of you talk of not blocking the intake cross over so it heats the intake when cold out. Is he going to run headers, short or long? Can you see where I am going with this? ........... No? The stock exh. manifolds should of had a valve that closed off the exh. flow on one side to force the hot gases up into the intake to heat it and out the other side. With headers you don't have this valve so no flow to the intake. Just my .02 Dave ----

I don't remember how the AC duct work was run if you could use part or it with an AC dash and plumb an after market system into it? The other thing is where does the factory fresh air enter the truck, again I don't remember and raining to hard to run across the yard to my garage to see if I can tell. Looking over my pictures the left side of both AC & non-AC frames have the openings for the AC duct / vents and just bolt them in and change the gauge bezel to an AC one from the looks of it. Now the left side I don't think is that easy to just cut the openings and install the vents and think that is part of the main dash frame. I dint think the pictures Cory posted of the Bronco setup is all that bad. They are in the factory spots just a little smaller / thinner is all. And other than the rear window not marked up/down the control looks pretty good also. I think everyone knows where I stand on factory or aftermarket AC systems Dave ----

Man is he reaching! And he cant even get the years right. Dave ----

Maybe? My 1980 with a 3/80 build date has the long slots. This was a non-A/C and I *think* non-radio truck. So some where between 11/80 & 2/81 there was a change but still don't know if it was because of radio ANT. or AC because the 11/80 truck was like yours no radio & AC. Would be nice if we had a member with an 80 model and it had factory radio & AC to see what slots it had. I don't think I would have seen this but I was looking at the back sides to see how the foam seal was run and if I could follow the one not used if I could not tell on the one I was going to use. Dave ----

At first I thought the radio / no radio was the answer till I read more of the post. I thought this because the long slots were from my 11/80 F100 Custom non-AC (DSO 2? cant see in picture) and it looks like someone drilled the hole for the ANT. (no ANT with truck) and is all bent and why I did not want to use it Then the tapered slot cover were on the 2/81 F100 Ranger AC (DSO 22) and this ANT. is the Ford rectangle type held on with 4 screws and looks to be factory, even had the part number yellow tag on it. So maybe the even slots were a 1980 hold over from different plants? I also like the slots over the holes and have been thinking of the screen trick but I cant see much of anything getting down inside as the truck will not be parked under trees at my house or work when I take it and cant see it being under trees when I drive it. Dave ----

Yesterday I had to cut the grass as we were loosing the cats in it, started at 7am when it was cool when done with just tractor work at 10am it was too hot to do the weed wacking so to hot for garage work. I did pickup the foam tape for the hood & door jambs when I paint. I also picked up the hardware that was missing for the paper / tape machine and kind of put that together to see if would work. Today got out at 7am and moved the truck out side and let run a bit wile I moved the hood and cowl panel so I could work on them and paint the bottom of hood and edges of the cowl panel. I have 2 cowl covers and when looking them over to see where the foam seal goes I saw they were different and both are 81's but 1 is from an AC truck (I will be using better shape) the other non-AC. The difference is in the louvers at the outside ends. The non-AC they are even all the way across where the AC one the last 3 or 4 get shorter to the next the ends one are the shortest. The cowl on the 2 trucks look the same and I even tried each one on the 2 trucks to make sure they would fit and they do just don't know why they did this? I picked the better of the 2 cowl / wiper motor plates prepped & painted it satin black. I sanded the bottom of the hood and it is ready for paint so I moved to the cowl. I had to work the cowl over pretty good to prep for paint and doing so had to hit it with primer well by this time. 11:30 it was 96* in the garage, and the primer did not like it. I had the fan going so I did not feel it but could not have it on for painting so the paint part was side lined till next weekend when it will be cooler. Turned to the tape / paper machine and set the tapes up to hit the papers as it should may need to tweak it a little but the testing I was happy. I even used a little to tape off the fender on the truck as I had to prim a little spot. Should come in handy when I need to tape up the truck for painting. I then turned to that mess called a dash pad I been trying to repair. Well seam sealer to fill cracks is NOT the way to go. When sanding with 80 grit on a DA sander the sealer gets soft / sticky and does not really sand it kind of gets pushed. So I used a wood chisel to remove some of it but where the speaker was I left that area, no easy way to remove that area. I think I an going to try hot glue to fill in the low spots I have where I removed the sealer to see how this will work. This was the worst of the 2 pads I have and just trying to see what works, so far I have only found what dose not work LOL. The other pad I have a cover for and I should get that mounted as it is sitting on top of the truck and needs to come off for painting. Dave ----

If belts are slipping you either have them adjusted wrong or the wrong one spec'd. All power transmission systems lose energy. It's a fact of thermodynamics. First, no motor is 100% efficient. 746W in, does not make 1hp out. There's also friction from the bearings supporting each sheave (or sprocket), and just flexing the rubber as it passes around each pulley creates heat in the belt. That energy (lost as heat) has to come from somewhere. And that 'somewhere' is the kinetic energy imparted by the motor. Just like the brakes in your truck don't 'create' heat. Friction changes inertia into heat, shedding momentum energy from the system and slowing the truck. Going with a Gilmer type belt you are using more of the energy the motor is putting out. A V belt no matter how tight you get it will have slippage and the tighter you get it the more wear on bearings you will have. The Gilmer belt you don't have to go as tight so less strain on bearings, you don't have heat build up from V belt slippage, this slippage also causes the shives to wear and need replacing over time. This set up was used on 10 - 30 HP motors and would replace 3 V belts with 1 Gilmer belt. We found after the belt change the motors were over ampping with the fans putting out the same RPM/CFM and had to make changes to get the amps down but same CFM output just don't remember what that was 25+ years later. Dave ----

We've requested matched V-belt sets for industrial applications before. It does matter. They're cut like slices of bread from a loaf, and every loaf is going to be a little bit different. I don't believe I've ever had a vehicle with a double v-belt set up. Of all the vehicles I had that were old enough to have V-belts, they only ever had an alternator and a power steering pump that were belt driven. When I worked at the hospital any of our fans that used more than 1 belt used matched set, some fans had 5 or 6 belts and came as a mat un-cut belts. On some of the smaller fan units we went with Gilmer belt drive setups and var-i-speed controllers. The Gilmer belts (think blower belt) do not slip like a V belt does so all the energy going to the motor was sent to the fan wheel. At times you could cut back the speed of the motor or turn it off to save energy. Dave ----

It can be done by yourself as I have put it on and off many times when customizing both the front & rear. Now if you loosen 1 side, I think you will need to loosen both sides, and pull it out to stick the washer(s) between bumper & frame the other side will move in and could hit the body and scratch & dent it so be careful. Dave ---- ps: the bumper was just placed on the truck along with the grille & head light doors.

I realized this the hard way back in 2008 when I fell to heat exhaustion, twice in two months. Ten years later I still have heat anxiety whenever I'm working in the heat, even if I have plenty of water. I have a nice collection of hardware and it is even sorted different types of bolts, screws, nuts and I have started to sort the nuts & bolts by thread size. I need to get more of them plastic colored bins. I have some that are stacked but need to move 1 or 2 to get to the lower bin and others that hang from a metal rack. I have to check the next time I am in Home Depot for them or maybe HF? This tapping machine is metric and I don't have a lot of that so was thinking the hardware store may have the wing nuts. Well not in the size I needed so I got looking and figured with some metric ny-lock nuts, fender washers and springs I could make the tape holders work as they should. In the AC of the house I think I have them so they should work. When it cools off later and I go out to close up the garage I will fit them back on to see what I may need to change to have work but got a feeling they will work out of the box ;) Yea this heat is no joke! I am out in it for work off loading (blowing off 26 tons of powdered cement) when not driving and even then have the windows partly open so I don't feel the heat so much when I get out. I was out cutting grass at 7am today and it was not to bad. By 10am when done it was getting bad. I forgot to get something at the paint store yesterday so I went to get it and by the time I got back to the house it was already mid 90's and over 100* in the garage. Needless to say nothing is getting done to day. Will see what tomorrow brings. Dave ----

I don't know if you can get a copper radiator with out really needing to look for it as I think the Alum./plastic is the standard now. This one replaced the pin hole leaking copper one my truck had. I also think that the new Alum./plastic radiators are a lot better now than when they first came out. Yes they did seam to leak at the rubber seal between plastic tanks and the Alum. core, I have not heard of one leaking in a long time now. I got mine thru Rock Auto and the shroud think was from Dennis Carpenter, it is for an 81 300 six with AC. Dave ----

Nice looking truck it is hard to tell could that be a rubber mat and if so why cover up the wood floor? $13000 for a non-wood bed and non-stock seat I think is a little much. There is a member on FTE that took me lead and also did a metal ribbed floor, his came out pretty good. Dave ---- Yesterday I picked up the white paint and the extras that go with it for another $200+and I for got something so going to try and get back to day to see if they have it and if not will get it on line. I also got the paper / tape machine and supplies and put it together. Well China struck again! No axle for the wheels so had to come up with long bolts and nuts. The directions are for crap! They give you a crappy picture with numbers to the parts and a list of the numbers and how many but can hardly read any of it. Some of the other parts, 8 wing nuts for the tape holders missing and think they gave 4 to many paper roll jam collars. The collars worked out as I was able to move them around along with springs& washers so I could add a 3rd roll of paper. So this 2 roll machining is now a 3 roll with 12". 18" & 36" paper. As said the tape holders, has 4 of them, does not have any way to adjust where they fall on the paper because of the missing wing nut, and no way to hold tension so I need to fix that. Also the tape will fall off the holders but a few wraps of tape on them should hold the rolls to them. Don't know how much well get done this weekend the temps to be in the high 90's was 104*in the garage when I went for tools for the taping machine at 3pm Dave ----

Nice looking truck it is hard to tell could that be a rubber mat and if so why cover up the wood floor? $13000 for a non-wood bed and non-stock seat I think is a little much. There is a member on FTE that took me lead and also did a metal ribbed floor, his came out pretty good. Dave ----

To late I have the 12" paper & sleeve of tape, the 18", 36" paper & 2 a paper machine are on there way. I was also looking into 3M foam tape for the jambs to keep from getting a hard paint line. I will check if my supplier has it when I check on the white paint. I have never used card board but have used newspaper, that was the only time I got to read it LOL. With news paper to keep paint bleed thru down fold the edge over about 4" you will put the tape on. This way the paint has to go thru 2 layers of paper and the tape before bleed thru. I never seen an issue with lint using newspaper but they say it happens. With all the dirt in my garage I need all the help I can get to keep the paint clean. Dave ----

6:00 heck I am at work for an hour on my late start days. This noise does it sound like the starter is spinning or the relay buzzing? Dave ----