FuzzFace2

How did it work before the last few weeks? I ask because I installed a new tank and the same sender that you installed. The first fillup took a full 16 gallons (the 5ish were put in at my friend's hangar and the 10ish we put in when we drove to town) but the gauge didn't read. I was not as smart as you and didn't test it before I installed it. So I managed to remove it without dropping the tank thinking I'd confirm that the sender was bad. But it worked just fine outside the tank. I bent the wire a bit to get it to register higher; now it reads 1/2 tank when I fill up, but I never put more than about 7 gallons in because it feels so weird driving on E, even though I suspect that when I get to E I still have another 8 gallons. A week or so ago I put 5 gallons of gas in each dry tank with new senders (16 gal side tank / 19 gal rear tank) and found the needle came up to the empty line for both tanks so I was happy to be on EMPTY and have 5 gallons left. Being I don't know when the truck will be on the road and not wanting to spill gas from a can on fresh paint I added another 5 gallons to each tank and found the 16 gal tank not reads full? The 19 I think was about half and think that is about right. As long as they read good when close to empty I am happy. Dave ----

That's what I did, painted the cowl with the cover off so it would get color down inside not that you would see it with the wiper assy. installed and cover on. Dave ----

This came at a good time as I need to dig out the grilles & light doors and I am sure even having 2 trucks I pulled apart I will need screws and the clips they go into. If there is a size listed then I will just hit up the local hardware store. Thanks Dave ----

I think a come-along or ratchet strap would work better than that chain binder for pulling fence post or frames back into place. What happens is that binder only pulls it so far then locks where the come-along or ratchet strap would pull it a little farther so when released it will be in the right place. To tell the truth I don't think truckers use that type binder any more as you needed a long pipe over the handle to pull it closed and when undoing it could take your teeth out if not knock you out! Dave ----

Never heard of such a thing and being they hold the wheels on I would get the right shank type nuts. As for the spare, put 5 nuts in a baggie and pop it in the glove box. Where would you keep the wheel lock key? I don't think there is enough room in the ash tray for all 5 nuts and the lock key. You are lucky to have a spare. I have the holder but no wheel that will fit the truck. Dave ----

Thanks How is yours coming along, going to be putting it together soon? Dave ----

By the vacuum sticky it looks to be the VDV going to the air bypass valve? It also looks like the white part of all the valves should be to the vacuum supply, look at the sticky Gary posted on the right side. The only thing I am not sure on is the 2 temp switches, 1 in the lid & the other on the side of the housing and what each is called so you know what one gets used for what. Dave ----

Yes them and if you use them shanked nut you don't need longer studs as the shank goes into the wheel to grab the stud as needed. If you were to replace the studs with longer ones then you would need open ended nuts with a shank. That's what I have to run on my drag car as the studs have to be longer when running drag slicks. Dave ----

Remove that hose off the back of the carb that has the teal / black / white valve in it. See that other short hose on that metal line just under it? One end goes into the intake manifold the other end with the short hose goes to the carb you pulled the other hose from. Now that hose you pulled off with that teal / black / white valve (VRDV) in it based on the vacuum line sticky should go to intake manifold vacuum supply then to the A/CL BI-MET switch on the filter lid or the side of the housing (don't know what one?) then to the filter housing snorkel door A/CL DV. Dave ----

Thanks even the wife said she liked it I really pushed to get it this far over the weekend and I am happy I did and the way it turned out. The next step is to get paint on the bed so I need to pick up paint for it so it is on hand. As for together soon ...... don't think so., but will keep plugging away at it. I need weather strip kit to put the doors together as I have nothing for the glass, it was all at the bottom of the doors! Need the door handle gaskets too, all nickel & dime stuff but it adds up fast! I will go thru my parts and get the best ones to fix / clean / paint before they go back on. I may do this before next weekend as we are to get part of that hurricane and don't think I will have work. I just need to move the truck to the house garage, wife should like that as her car has to go out, so I can lay parts out on the floor. Dave ----

NO YOU CANT! You need to get the shank type lug nuts for the wheels as the shank part is what centers the wheel. Right now the wrong nuts are not supporting the wheel. To get the right size shanked nuts you need to know the thread size and how deep the wheel if from the face where the washer sits, yes you need washers also, to the back side. If it is say 1/2" you don't want shank nuts that are 9/16" long or the wheel will not tighten down. Also FYI threads should come out the end of the nuts half the dia. of the stud so if the stud is 1/2" it should poke out 1/4", they do not in your picture. Local auto parts store should be able to get them or go thru Summit Racing or Jeggs. Dave ----

I am happy I painted the truck yesterday as it was HH&H when I walked out the door at 7am even the little work I did I was soaking wet from sweat Pulled the rest of the masking paper & plastic off the truck, installed the rear wheels to get it ready to move out of garage for better pictures. Before doing so I wet sanded the front & rear bumpers in prep for paint. Once the truck was moved out I painted & cleared the bumpers using premixed bright silver paint & clear from Duplicolor. Did not lay down as I liked but in cleaning the spray gun I found some old red paint flakes came out so that may be why? The bumpers were still to wet to install when I called it a day because of the heat & humidity, may go out later but being I have to work tomorrow I may just take it easy? I need to pull out all the duplicate parts I have and pick the best ones, repair& clean as needed before I install them. Need to pick up some spray bombs to paint behind the grill and maybe the grille & head light door. Want to get paint stripper to remove the black paint from the wheels then can see what is needed to make them look good to match the body. Also need a rubber gasket kit for the body before I can put the doors back together and some small things from LMC or Dennis Carpenter like door handle gaskets, fuel door bumpers, battery hold down, etc. Wife is going to kill me when the bills come in. Dave ----

Thanks guys The plan tomorrow is to get it outside to free up the bay so I can get paint on the bumpers. During the week I want to get more paint for the bed this way I have it on hand when I have the time. When I do start on it, it will have to be quick as the wife's car has to be put out of the house garage so the truck can go in because of no glass. Dave ----

Sorry the pictures are not too good it was hot and I wanted to get out and I am hurting from 2 days of painting. It has a little dirt on the hood. I had the air hose leaking half way thru the last coat and had to throw the hose outside to fix it and the door opener shook the dirt down. It is now baking as it must be 90* in there! Got done just in time as the wind is kicking up and starting to rain. Tomorrow I will pull the rest of the paper off and see about prepping & maybe painting the bumpers. I did not want to do them before I had a safe place to put them and now I can put them on the truck. I also need to get another gallon of red paint for the bed, it took the full gallon just on the cab already told the banker I need $200+ for it. Dave ----

I got out there about 630-7 and right now, stopped for breakfast, I have the outline taping done. Wife had to move her car to get the tapping machine out of the house garage to give me more room in mine. Tape it up a little sanding where the over spray of white is, wash it down and should be time to mix some red paint If it was only that easy Dave ----

Next pictures should be with red paint on the cab. The bed I can do almost at any time because other than the fenders there are no really big flat areas like the doors, roof & hood that can show dirt and how flat the paint smoothed out. After my cup of tea I will hit the garage to prep for the red paint. Dave ----

WE HAVE PAINT Still a little fogy from over spray. It was a long day 3:30am start and lights went off at 7pm only stopping for breakfast and run the trash to the dump. This all almost did not happen. When eating breakfast I heard a loud pop followed by a loud hiss. Went running out to my garage to find the 3/4" pipe blew out of the air dryer that leads to the air system piping around my garage. It is a compression type fitting so an easy fix but 80 gallons of air @ 180 psi blew a lot of dirt around. Good thing I was still sanding so was not too bad. Dave ----

Closer 3:30 to 8:00 got the truck taped up, more stuff tucked away, floor swept and primer on the cab! A little food and trash to the dump and hope primer will be dry enough to sand and throw some paint on it. I will get a picture or 2 with paint on it. Dave ----

It better be better tomorrow as I plan on getting out early like 3am or 4am and when I call it a day it will have paint on it. Looking to do the white on the cab and thinking the rear fenders this way the white is done and should not need to open that color can again. Let it dry on Sunday or if it feels good I will tape off the white and do the red other wise Monday I do the tapping and red. That's the plan any way. Dave ----

I don't even have to touch the truck and I go backwards! When tapping the door jambs & hood jambs I used this 3M foam tape my brother said to use, he does body work for a living. When painting and used in places like door, hood & truck / deck lid jambs it makes a "soft" paint line where if you use tape leaves a hard paint line. Well it took me for ever to do the doors because when you closed them it moved the tape and paint would have gotten into the jambs. Well today I went into the garage for something and was thinking of doing a little on the truck and I saw most of this foam tape came undone. Thing is this was put in place before the door windows were taped up so I could close the hood all the way and put bungee's on the doors to hold them closed tight to the foam tape. Don't know how I am going to fix this as I cant prime & paint it this way and I did try tape on the doors and this WILL NOT WORK. Needless to say I was turned off on doing anything on the truck after finding this. Will see what work has for me tomorrow and if I have a late load I will see about putting a few hours in before work when I am fresh. Was up at 2am for work and found this at 3pm just killed the day! Dave ----

Princeton says "The lower pressure in the venturi will attract fuel from the fuel bowl into the pipe in an attempt to even out of the lower vapor pressure of the venturi and the higher atmospheric pressure in the fuel bowl." So it is the differential between the pressure on the fuel in the bowl and the pressure seen in the venturi that causes the flow. If you change the pressure on the fuel in the bowl you will change the flow of fuel for a given flow of air in the venturi. In other words, you will alter the air/fuel ratio. I can't tell you that is what is happening, but I know for sure that if you change the pressure you will change the AFR. And since air has mass, if air flowing into the air cleaner has a straight shot into the bowl via a vent then the pressure will go up. That is what I was thinking, the air rushing in to the carb is also going down the bowl vent tubes raising the pressure in the bowl causing the AFR change. You would think it would make it run rich so I cant say why it is lean? Could it be the air bleed jets why the change? Dave ----

I wonder if it broke again? From what I remember there is not much to this brace and to weld to both brace & doors IIRC. With all the work I have put into this truck body work wise I hope it does not crack again. Dave ----

As a quick fix till he is ready to do the crate motor swap I don't see any thing wrong with it. Might not want to put the radiator cap on all the way so it will not build up pressure. I have 1 motor with 3 or 4, one of them a small one in the head. You can not replace them with motor in the car and it is just as hard to pull the motor, compact car with a v8. Car is now laid up. My project truck had 1, don't know how long it had been installed. It did start leaking just sitting as I was working on it but was able to tighten it up and it stopped. A week latter I had a leak again but it was not the rubber one leaking. That is when I did the right thing and replaced them all in the block. The rubber plug is ONLY a quick fix but we do what we have to do Dave ----

There is a reason for the crack but you would not see it till you pull everything, glass & vent window, out to see why. Someone said "bridge" there is a brace that goes between the inner door part and that outer door part. This brace breaks free from one or the other part and because the mirror is on that outer part with vibration it pulls the panel out & down and the crack starts. Both of my doors had cracks just not that bad. I welded the brace back in place then welded up the cracks. You are a day late, taped up for painting or I would have gotten pictures of this brace. If I can remember after painting I will try and get pictures. Dave ----

I don't think you need to cut the tie and being you have a six and the plug is on the right side it should be easy to look at all the freeze plugs to see if 1 has the heater in it. It has been a L O N G time since I used a block heater on a diesel I owned to remember if you could even feel it in the winter. I even had the radiator blocked off like the big rigs do with a grille cover to help keep heat in. You can try and plug it in overnight and check in the AM if it feels warm on the block by the heater. Dave ----