FuzzFace2

I see you have a his & hers flare sides now http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif Thanks but it is no way near as nice as yours. Dave ---- Was home by 11am so hit the garage again. I pulled the grille & head light doors so I could fix some cracks and missing mounting tabs. First was a good washing so I could see what I was working with. I found there is no easy way to clean the insides of the turn signal lights, they were fill of mud & dirt. The grille & doors came from the parts truck that rolled over and why the damage. I used Crazy glue on the cracks on the grille and Plastex to make tabs. I also used Plastex to finish the cracks and reinforce 3 tabs I either glued back on or had cracks. With that all done and setting up I taped off the head light doors for painting. I had to hit the cracks with a little sand paper to smooth them out before painting. The doors & grille I used Krylon Metallic Dark Metal paint, I also set up all the screws and they got black paint. I was going to install but the paint was still a little soft so I let them sit. Being still early I started looking at the tail light harness. Well just looking at it I was getting covered in dirt. So in the bucket I used to wash the head light doors, grille went into the tub, and started cleaning away. Did not get a picture of the harness or the trailer Tee I will use. When I get the 2nd new tail light I can mount it and plug in the harness in and make a plan to make them one! Dave ----

I see you have a his & hers flare sides now Thanks but it is no way near as nice as yours. Dave ----

Did you miss my post back on think page 27 with pictures of how the hot air path works? Copper tubing is better, it will not rust out and is easier to bend. Poor man headers ... EFI manifolds http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n40066/20180916_131830.jpg http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n40066/20180916_170816.jpg http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n40066/20180916_170737.jpg http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n40066/20180916_170802.jpg If you need to run pre-heat to the air filter you can make the tin from sheet metal and/or tin cans to catch the heat and use the paper hose up to the filter housing like stock. I have not done this and don't know if I will have to only time will tell. Dave ---- Dave ----

What no "his & her" trucks? It does not look that bad from here so maybe a quick fix use for a bit and if the wife does not want "hers" then up for sale it goes. Being it is not black the body does not need to be 1000% straight. Dave ----

Thanks guys, I have no way to know what year the running board brackets were from that my brother sent me but it looks like it could have been an early truck. Dave ----

If the VIN said 85 with a 302 and it has FI 300 in it wonder what the frame VIN has to say? Could it be a cab swap? On the kick panels I would think they would match the others. Now a black rug with other inside colors I can see. On my phone I can't really see the pictures so can't wait till on my pc. Dave ----

Thanks guys I am happy how the paint flowed out just not happy on the dirt that got in it but I guess it is going to happen when you paint in a garage that you also used to do body work in. But to tell you it is not the body filler dust in it this is little bigger than that, like the bug I found still moving but was stuck in the paint As for being done before you Gary we are building our trucks on 2 different levels. Unless it was powder coated from the factory there is no powder coat on my truck. I am sure the paint jobs can not compare to each other either. I also have a dead line of November 9th. Work is having a car / truck show for its 60th birthday and would like to take the truck. The inside will not be complete, lack of funds, but the outside should be. I need to replace the booster & master, E brake cables again as they don't hold and no more adjustment and 4 tires and should be road worthy. The hardest part I see coming up is the windshield install as I need a hand and don't really know anyone around here but "I" will get it installed. Dave ----

Forgot I installed the battery hold down and the fresh air flex to the air filter Dave ----

After I got the fenders held on with a few bolt I was able to get it in my garage to fit the running boards, fender & running board braces and the rest of the fender bolts and got them all tight. In fitting the rear fender brace on the left side I can see why the factory may not wanted to run the rear tank on flare sides. The brace kind of run thru where the filler is. I was able to push the hose over but if I have issues filling that tank I may need to remove it. Fitted up the 2 fuel fillers & doors. I did not order enough rubber bumpers for the doors but the 1 I did order would fall thru the holes for it in the fuller box. I had 2 larger bumpers I ordered but did not know what they were for, found out later, and used them on the front door but the door still hits the bolts? I will order 4 more of them bumpers, 2 for the other fuel door and 2 for what they are for. I also need 1 more "unleaded" sticker for the 2nd fuel door. Mounted the tail gate and the chains. Was not bad once I figured how I was going to do this and not hurt the fresh paint on anything. It was when mounting the chains I found where them bigger rubber bumpers went ...... Yep the handles of the chains to keep from hitting the painted tail gate! I also glued in the 2 rubber strips in the tail gate sides to keep the gate tight to the body and moving making noise. When doing all this I was going thru my parts bins looking for parts I could put on but was really looking for the rear tail light harness for either truck. I found the full harness from the flare side, I am using the parts truck harness for the options it had and I am running. The flare side harness did not have a tail light harness. Someone cut the plug off the frame harness and added wires to reach the cheap boat lights that were mounted up high out back, so that harness when back in the parts bin. I did find the 2 broken flare side tail lights my brother sent and he did cut the truck side harness so I have the needed plugs to put in the new lights when I get the 2nd one this week. I also pulled off the brackets, prepped and painted and installed on the truck with the 1 new tail light I have. Mounted the new front side marker lights, installed new 194 bulbs & 1157 in the front turn lights but I need to pull the head light doors & grille to repair & paint yet. I also cleaned up the grounds for the lights at each fender and the hood ground and got them in place. The rear lic. plate bracket I marked and drilled for the plate light and got the light & bracket mounted up. I did find the parts truck tail light harness in a bin I did not placed with the others and it was the only thing in it for the trucks. I did not look it over just yet but did see it has the Tee for the trailer light harness so I don't need to splice into the trucks harness. Oh I took down my paint booth, plastic I had on the walls and over stuff in the other 2 bays so no more painting! Dave ----

Sorry to say I don't have one, would like one but don't have one because of $$and I don't really need it. Even have a port in the EFI exh. manifolds I could install one. But yes would be interesting. Dave ---- This morning before unwrapping Just 2 bolts holding it on, breakfast was getting cold! Dave ----

Sorry to say I don't have one, would like one but don't have one because of $$and I don't really need it. Even have a port in the EFI exh. manifolds I could install one. But yes would be interesting. Dave ----

Thanks guys. If the idle stays where it's at I cant see the need to fix what's nit broke LOL I will get pictures I hope with the fenders on the truck if the paint is dry enough to handle. Dave ----

Dave, Just as a side note, I don't think all Flaresides had them. They are shown in the drawing below, front and rear, but I've looked at about a dozen of these trucks, and I've only ever seen one that had the braces. My truck does not have them, and you could tell that they were never there. Just interesting is all. It might depend on who assembled the truck that day. Thanks guys you are great. I think why I only have 3, 1 from my truck and 2 my brother sent, is 1 of the fenders was replaced at some point and was not put back on. The big reason I don't remember is the 4 years between removing and installing them. I wonder if the later years they did not install them to save money? Both of mine are early 81 trucks, 11/80 & 2/81. Cory think yours is 83 or 84? And OZ think is an 81 truck also? Now if the paint is dry enough to handle I can get them installed and it will look like a real truck again Thanks again. Dave ----

Fender brace / strut question. I know the rear part of the fender has a strut and goes up to 1 of the bed side bolts and the other end to a stud screwed into the fender. The question - is there 1 up front also? I ask because mine only had 1 and I cant remember where it goes I also got 2 others my brother sent me with other parts and are brown. All 3 were in a bag marked bed / running board bolts. I could not see were they may go as I did not have the fenders mounted to the bed yet but I just can remember how they fit in. Thanks Dave ----

We got the last of the paint on the truck! Started at 4am and lights off at 8:30 yep a long day again. The tail gate needed a lot more prepping than I remember it needing. After wet sanding down pretty close to bare metal I had to give it a few heavy coats of primer. Then more wet sanding till ready for paint. Also wet sanded the 2 running boards. The fenders got taped up then dry sanded, all final sanding was with 600 grit paper even on the cab. In the middle of this I had to move the truck out of the house garage to get the tape & paper rack out to my garage. I have had an issue of the idle being to high so I looked into it. Turning the screw did nothing? Digging deeper covering the carb with a rag also did nothing! That showed me there was a good size vacuum leak some were? I knew the intake manifold was good as I did new gaskets not long ago and the carb gaskets are new when I rebuilt the carb so where could it be? I got thinking of a post Matthew on FTE posted about the PCV valve & the charcoal canisters. He said the PCV valve has 2 ports, large one for the valve and a small one for the canisters / carb bowl vent. This this small port should have a vary small opening to meter the amount of vacuum to go thru. Well mine did not have this metered opening and caused a vacuum leak. Went thru my Holley carb pit box when I raced and pulled out the smallest jet I had, #64, and installed this in the rubber hose and stuck it back on the PCV valve. I think the #64 is still to large but the idle is now at about 800 RPM by the dash tach. and that is what the sticker said it should be at. I also adjusted the idle mix and she runs good again. I will get pictures tomorrow Dave ----

It doesn't really matter to which post you reply, but it sometimes causes confusion if you click "REPLY" on a post, and then don't address that post. In any case: if you simply type someone's name, or quote him, you can respond to several posts at once. I call that the front wheel well - I'm not sure what Ford calls it. The '80-86 parts are different because of the shape of the wheel arch. You could try to mount an '87-96 wheelwell, but you'd probably have to stretch &/or cut it to get it come close to lining up along the edge. If you feel the need. They're not very visible when the truck is assembled, so I doubt anyone but you will notice if they're faded. I've used black leather dye on automotive plastic, with good results. But that dye seems to be hard to find now. I think any paint would peel, given the high abrasion at that location, from thrown dirt & gravel. I agree - any JY that has any '80-86 F-series or Bronco should have these wheelwells, and they should be <$20ea (probably closer to $10/pr if you pull them). Again - I agree. A posted description of the truck gets lost in the thread, and is useless when you participate in other threads. Your signature appears automatically under each post, so we can review it easily. An avatar showing the truck helps, too. I thought that he was wanting the inner fender wells and not mud flaps. I feel you pain on not finding anything in junk yards. I moved from CT 4 years ago and the yards up there do not keep anything older then 10 years and they may have shorten that who knows? With the laws and all and the room or lack there of, they cant keep older cars & truck around when they could sit for years before someone needs something off it so to the crusher it goes.. If you have not hurt them to bad with the heat I would try and fix them. I think HF has plastic welders to fill in the holes and for the scratches I think a fine disc on a die grinder would work to fix them and then paint with the plastic paint. Mine were not scratched or had extra holes but were faded but I am rebuilding a driver so did not care a whole lot. I am more pissed that over spray got up under the hood into the engine bay and coated everything and that looks worst than the faded inner fender liners. Dave ----

Copper tubing is better, it will not rust out and is easier to bend. Poor man headers ... EFI manifolds If you need to run pre-heat to the air filter you can make the tin from sheet metal and/or tin cans to catch the heat and use the paper hose up to the filter housing like stock. I have not done this and don't know if I will have to only time will tell. Dave ----

Yes the moldings are covered with 2 layers of plastic and I don't want to go moving them just yet to kick up dust & dirt as I have more painting to do today. I did give a quick look, in the dark, at the fenders that are off the truck and there is a hole in the brace to get a nut & socket in there but you would need to drop the inner liner and I don't know if you have room because of the cab cowl vent drain coming down in that area. I also cant remember how I removed the moldings off the parts truck as it has been almost 4 years. Dave ----

I think the red & white truck needs the white to go all the way to the lights front & rear to look right to me and not liking the roll bar. Now if it was a flare side and red & white then ........... LOL Now that free wheeling I do like the combo and it should get the roll bar as I think it fits that package better. I did not dig to deep into either one but what else was added other than stripes & wheels/tires and how much did it bump up the price? Dave ----

And that is why I added the 2nd tank out back on my flare side, flip a switch and I have a full tank again Now the picture thing is great as I would not think of that. Because I don't plan on using the truck much I think till I get to know the truck I will keep a little note pad in it, yep no trip counter. This way I can keep track of MPG from each tank and total of both. Dave ----

Joe it might help to list where you are at as they are not something that would ship easily. Have you been checking CL and some say FB has some things also. You may need to buy a full parts truck for them and might get lucky and it will have other parts better than what you have now. I did that for my project and I used a lot of it and gave some parts away I was not going to use. BTW welcome to the forum Dave ----

What do you mean with the '(not)'? What I meant was it's a threaded stud and "not" a pin. When I get to the garage this weekend I will see if I can dig up the moldings but I think the are covered in plastic for painting the truck and can't get to them just yet to check. Dave ----

I got home from work early, went in for 1am, but it was to hot when I got home, got to 100* here to day so did not even try getting out to the garage. It is to be cooler this weekend and will get the rest of the painting done. I ordered the Grote tail lights and the Butyl tape seal for the glass and all should be here next week but I have a lot of work that can be done once the painting is done. Dave ----

There should not be a need to remove the driveshaft or cross member and slide the trany back, it just more work that is not needed. Yes remove the inspection cover and remove the 4 nuts that hold the converter to the flex plate / flywheel and you should be able to push the converter back a little so you know it is free from the flex plate. Before you pull the motor support the trany with a floor jack with wood across the pad to protect the trany pan. You DO NOT want to keep the converter bolted to the motor / flex plate and try and remove the converter with the motor! You can hurt the converter and / or input shafts & splines and you will hurt the converter seal. I can also tell you, you CAAN NOT install the motor with the converter bolted to the flex plate as there is no way to get the input splines to line up in the converter. When you install a converter to the trany you have to turn the converter while pushing it in and it will click 2 time to seat it. You can also take a flat edge across the bell housing and the face of the converter should be inside about 2 inches. If the converter is not seated all the way and you bolt the motor up you can force the input shafts into the converter and break both. You may want to mark the flex plate and converter so when you put them back together you can line up the marks to help it go together. I know some converters / flex plate holes only line up 1 way and why I say this. Dave ----

That is the wrong "clip" on that (not) metal pin. That molding retainer is threaded and gets a nut to hold the molding to the body. There is no way to get that clip off the threaded retainer and why it pulled out of the body when removed. That type of clip is made for smooth pins like the fender badges and hood letters. That brings up a question of that type pin retainer. Do we have a size / PN for the fender badges and hood letters pin retainers as I will be needing some shortly to put them back on. Thanks Dave ----