FuzzFace2

Again I know after a cab off frame rebuild, cab back on frame, making a bed and back on the frame, all 4 wheels on the ground, etc. Dave ----

Looking good I know how it feels when the dash goes back in, been there done that. Dave ----

Thanks yesterday before I went in I just sat there looking at it. Man I wish the windshield was in I want to take that puppy for a spin! I am off today so I want to nut & bolt the truck & check fluids as I have not done the trany or rear yet. Also have the glove box, door sills, badges, jack & lug wrench to paint and mount and thinking I am missing things too. Yes more like a truck but a project is never done you should know that I can tell you it will be an after market slider. I can just think what a factory slider would go for $$$$$$ Then again if I get the AC working and I have the non-AC kick vents I may not need a slider. Thanks for the heads up Dave ---- Off from work today so did a bunch of little things as most of the big things are done. Took a lot of time looking for screws, etc. One of the things was my box of cotter pins for the tie rods. I looked everywhere and found things I did not know I had but no cotter pins. Put the grease fittings in the kingpins and greased them & the tie rods, that is all the truck has that I found. Put screws in the kick panels I placed in the truck the other day. Picked the best set of door sills, drilled holes and mounted them. Worked on the door mirror mounting hard ware. Lower nut inserts went in with no issues but the first upper one did not work and looking at the others a nut insert will not work. The upper screws are right where the sport mirrors would mount but the nut have been drilled out but it left part of the nut. Because of this it is to thick for the nut insert to work, cant be thicker than sheet metal. I picked up some longer bolts & SS washers, forgot nuts, and cotter pins from the hardware store and will make them work. Don't want to mount the mirrors till the windshield is in so it will not be in the way. Cotter pins installed and checked suspension bolts & nuts, I did not find any loose Wired up and mounted the speakers in the doors, got to have tunes even if the sound is not that good. Looked into why the back up lights do not work. Found the plug on the harness that plugs into the switch on the trany was missing 1 of the barrel contacts. I did not know if the parts truck harness was the same or not as it had a different model trany so what to do? Pulled out the weather pack kit and a test fit of a 2 pin plug looked like it would work. Cut old plug off and crimped on the weather pack, plugged into the trucks harness and did a test and that part worked. Plugged into the trany and we have back up lights! May need to pull the trany to reseal it as it is leaking and from the top and I have not driven it just moving in & out of the garage. I will have to look at it closer to see just where it is leaking form maybe I can seal it in place? Pulled out the baggie with the old badges in it for the "FORD" letters and to see what I need to get them on the truck. I have clips but would like to get new ones as some are bent and I straighten out. I have new "F100" & "Custom" badges and they came with clips. Late start for work tomorrow so going to hit my auto paint supplier to see if they have any thing or know where I can get some clips. Dave ----

Ha! Well Ron, my truck and every other one I see has the bumper dents in the tailgate...lol. They stick out like a sore thumb to us Flaresiders. LOL I did not see it on the bumper but did see lack of a step. When I got my gate it had the bumper bend in it. It was an easy fix, place in on a2x4 and step on the gate to get it back into shape. Dave ----

YES! That is the big question. And I do believe I have in my drunken stooper tonight, engineered a way to limit the risk of rot. Do they have termites over there? Do you have them where you are? You said you have clay as a base. when it gets wet / damp out the clay can act as a sponge from below and the top stay dry. Because of this you will get flexing of the floor with heavy weight on it. We see it here and 1 of the reasons black top fails, flexing leads to cracks then to ..... One of the things they do here is mix cement in with the clay, add a little water to get it damp, mix it in with a large rotor tiller, roll it to compact and grade as needed. I am told they go down about a foot to mix it in so you are talking 1 foot thick concrete. The next day in a good rain I was able to drive my 80,000 trailer truck on it with no damage. They were doing the floor area of a wear house, concrete over it, but they also do roads this way with black top. Also have done loading dock areas too because of the weight of the trucks. You do not need to top coat if you did not want too. Dave ----

Thanks yesterday before I went in I just sat there looking at it. Man I wish the windshield was in I want to take that puppy for a spin! I am off today so I want to nut & bolt the truck & check fluids as I have not done the trany or rear yet. Also have the glove box, door sills, badges, jack & lug wrench to paint and mount and thinking I am missing things too. Yes more like a truck but a project is never done you should know that I can tell you it will be an after market slider. I can just think what a factory slider would go for $$$$$$ Then again if I get the AC working and I have the non-AC kick vents I may not need a slider. Thanks for the heads up Dave ----

So the plate has a "wing" to block that port and has a path to oil that area with a LITTLE oil. If you saw no oil psi right a way when it was running and shut her down you may be ok. Put the plate back in place the right way and spin the pump with the drill. It should be hard to spin and get good psi if all is good. Do this before putting the rest of the motor together. My motor ran great, 7200 shift rpm, after the no oil psi but I did shut her down right away. Good luck. Dave -----

It was not to bad a day. I almost did not go out after dealing with all the fur kids. If that wheel did not come off I don't know if I would have done anything more to it that day. I think the fixed & sliders do use the same seal I just did not want to use the new one on the fixed glass, saving it for the slider I want some day. Dave ---- After the fur kids that went better today I was going to deal with the glass other than the windshield. First up was the rear fixed glass. Little more prep mostly the old seal to clean and lube with dish soap along with the string. The hardest part was how to get into the bed holding the glass and not step on the tail gate to get the glass started. Most of the install is done from inside and it went good, little clean up and looks good. I even left the sticker on the glass. That went so good I moved onto the doors being the vent assy. were installed. Fitted the new door glass channels and that was not to bad either. Why didn't you guys tell me the vent assy. had to come out to install the door glass? So the new channel gasket & vent assy. came out and door glass in on both sides. Also fitted the outside fuzzy (window sweep), the door panels are junk and don't want to hurt them. On a roll I installed the door weather strips and the kick panels I painted yesterday. Did a poor mans wheel alignment, toe only with a tape. I knew it was off as the wheel would make noise when moving on the painted floor of the house garage and it was by almost 1 inch. By this time it was 5pm and fur kids were calling. Dave ----

It was not to bad a day. I almost did not go out after dealing with all the fur kids. If that wheel did not come off I don't know if I would have done anything more to it that day. I think the fixed & sliders do use the same seal I just did not want to use the new one on the fixed glass, saving it for the slider I want some day. Dave ----

2 things come to mind. What does the cam plate look like, dose it have a "wing" that covers that hole? Are you sure that port is not threaded for a plug? I know on the 302 I did it was something so simple to over look like that hole needing a plug. Dave ----

You were there in support and that helps Dave ---- Wife is away and with 6 of our own fur kids and 4 foster kitten 2 at 4 moth old and all 4 need meds so got a late start on the truck. I had to pick up a new battery. When doing the lights it died and would not start the truck with out a jump. Then when I got the dash done I left the battery hooked up and it died again. When charging it the battery got pretty hot to the touch and being 4 years old it got replaced. I checked for a drain and found none so it should be good the next time I go to start it. Before I moved it I wanted to tighten the lugs as they were just tight from up in the air. All was going good till the last wheel and the 2nd lug nut! The shank broke off the nut part and I am thinking how will I be able to get the wheel off now? I was lucky and the wheel came off and I was able to unscrew the shank. Then on to them pesky vent window assy. Got to say the hardest part was fitting the new seals to the frames. With seals & glass in the frames to was time to install them in the doors. Got to say that went easy now that I knew how they went in. I did have to trim the bracket for the outer skin from the other frame and it all went in. Not wanting to fight with the glass channel at this time I pulled out the windshield and started to prep for install. Then dug out the 1 piece rear glass that I thought was a dark tint. Well it is dark tint but it's a film I saw when I was going to remove the seal and did not. Being the glass almost popped out in the roll over I will look the seal over better to see if I can use it. I don't want to use the new seal that came with my seal kit as I want to get a slider rear glass someday and use that seal. Fur kids were hungry so called it a day. Dave ----

You were there in support and that helps Dave ----

:nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:I only wished. I made sure both window frames fit the doors, once I knew that I had to paint them as they had some surface rust so they are drying at this time. I hope to have the door glass in both doors and the rear glass installed by Saturday evening. I also need to see if I can kidnap the guy next door to give me a hand with the windshield. If I get the windshield in (and nut * bolt the whole truck) I can run it down the road about 2 miles for a cruse in and get diner when there. But that is a lot of work and don't think the windshield will get done. Dave ----

You did say that but why make more work for yourself and need to swap out oily wood blocks when cement is better option in my book. You can coat cement to have different patterns and you can just wipe up a spill. You know what they say it's your garage do as you wish. Dave ----

I am thinking of pouring some long concrete footers to move my 4 post lift back and forth on. It has casters, so I was thinking...there are only tow positions in the entire garage the lift will be in. Why not make a track that the lift can go back and forth from those two position? Then, all the cars I pull in the garage, only go to those two positions anyway. So one car or truck can fit on the lift and get rolled off to the side. The next car can sit directly on those footers. The rest of the floor can be wood paver. Yes, it would soak up oil etc. Never caused an issue at US Steel, General Electric, Caterpillar, Alcoa, GM, Ford and others. They all use this flooring on their assembly lines. When damaged I simply pull up a block with a slide hammer that has a lag screw welded to the tip of it. Replace the oil soaked piece. And be done. I don't weld very much. It would take a lot of sparks to get a solid chunk of wood to ignite. I can barely get a fire going with dry sticks and matches......don't know how I'd set the floor on fire. As nice as that looks I would never use it in a working garage. Look up Yale & Towne Manfg. fire Stamford CT. This building had wood floors soaked for years with machine oil. 1 spark is all to took to bring down this building. Now if you want to have an office in 1 corner and do the floor in it then go for it but a work in garage give me cement! Dave ----

From what I remember it is internal and why he does not have a oil slick under the truck. I think on the 385's you get oil coming out the bell housing and most likely all over the new clutch disc if a stick. Wish I could remember where it was on the motor I built Dave ----

The thing is I would still need to cut the divider bar shorter just to fit it up into place. Then I don't know because it was shorten if that will effect how the glass works and if the regulators are different between them. You cant look up part numbers because the glass & dividers are different so different numbers, don't know of the regulators? Thanks any way Dave ---- Just wanted to follow up on this. The 2nd set of replacements were 1.5" longer than the old ones and they had a bracket that a mirror screw went thru to help support it and keep the door skin from cracking. Now I first have to say I don't think how long the divider part is will keep them from being installed if you install them the right way! I cut this 1/5" off when I was trying to install them wrong and still could not get them in. They go in from the top where the door glass would be, in between the door skin brace and the latch end of the door. You feed it in so the lower bolt bracket fits thru the opening then turn the frame to feed it in to place. Once someone told me how it goes it kind of falls into place. Dave ----

I do have good news! With out you guys help I would have never figured out how they went in. In from the top where the door glass would be and twist and turn as you slip it in. The right side fits pretty good but the left side not so good. It is like the top of the door needs to come in but cant as the gaps to the body and A pillar are good. I matched it up to the old one and the curves are the same. The only thing I can see is that outer skin brace was broken when I got the truck and I may have pushed it together to much and in turn pulled the inner door frame in so the lower bolt is in a different position? The new vent dividers have a bracket for a mirror and I had to cut this off on the left door to get the frame into place. With them now fitting in the doors I sanded and painted them. Going to let them dry good before I put the seals and glass in them. I picked up a new dimmer switch on the way home today so I mounted it and tested the head lights, they work. Only lights I know don't work so far are the back up & inside dome but I kind of knew it would not. If I can find the under dash light plugs I will install something under there. I also pulled the metal plates off the kick panel area that blocks air from coming in on AC trucks. I had a set of vents from a Non-AC truck I painted the other day so I installed the vents. I still need to paint the kick panel that finish off that area. Thanks guys for the help Dave ----

Thanks guys it did turn out pretty good for a trash hauler LOL I may have found why the vent window frame will not fit. Someone said it has to go in thru the door glass opening and kind of twisted to get the lower bolt bracket in the slot and the frame to line up right. I am going to give that a try and see what happens I just did not think that is how I took it out 4 years ago? And most of the doors I have worked on everything but the door glass goes in thru the big hole in the door frame. I was also trying to put the window frame between the brace and the front of the door and the frame may go behind it to the latch end? Again I have a few things to try. Dave ----

I bet that is where the issue is and it may not be all that bad. IIRC there is a oil galley that should have a plug in it that I would say was not put back in after the cleaning. For the life of me I cant remember were this plug is? Maybe under the intake manifold or behind the timing cover, just cant remember now as it was like 40 years ago. Had the same thing happen on a hot little 302 with 351 heads I built for one of our off road 4x4 race trucks. Maybe ask the machine shop if they would know? Dave ----

I will try but may be a few days before I get back out to the garage. It will also be tricky trying to get the pictures as there is not a lot of room the get the phone in there. On another note I found 2 of the 3 door latch posts! I checked the parts cab and that was the only thing I did not remove when stripping the hardware from it. Think it was because I did not have the torx bit out with me and why I did not pull them off. What was nice besides finding them, they still had the plastic sleeves. Dave ----

The good, the bad and the I hate this truck! I had no work today so put a little time in on the truck starting with painting the dash pad, seat belt covers on the B pillar, the non-AC kick panel vents. I also washed the other part of the kick panels but did not paint yet. I went to use the textured SEM and both cans do not spray! I don't remember where I got them so $70 down the drain. Wonder if there is something else we can come up with to add texture? After the paint was dry on the pad time to install it and the rest of the dash. Only took about 4 times to figure out how it all went together. Then there was the issues of finding the right screws, this took most of the day but came out pretty good I think. I removed the trany cover and installed closed cell foam to seal it to the floor. I also washed the shifter boot and got that installed. I also installed 1 of the seat belt covers then saw that it might be in the way of installing the rear glass so held off on the other side. Now about glass, I trimmed the 2nd set of dividers shorter and tried to fit them in the door(s). Yes tried as I still could not get either into the doors. They are closer but just cant get them to fit. The door has a brace at the top the runs from the outer skin to inner frame to keep the outer skin from cracking from the weight of the mirror. If this was not there then it would be able to move back a little to let the "wing" clear the front of the door. I couldn't even get the old ones in and the doors had that brace in them before so I don't know why they will not go in? At that point I gave up and called it a day. I just don't know what I am going to do to get them in place? And they don't have the gasket or glass in them to make it easier to handle. Because I got the dash bezel installed I was able to turn the head lights off so left the battery hooked up and hope the battery stays up. Dave ----

When I did the battery cables on my drag car, battery in the trunk, I bought a cable crimper you use a hammer to "crimp". I also cut small solder and stuck it in the lug with the cable before crimping. Add a little heat and call it done, was not to worried about water tight as the car is not driven in the rain. Works pretty good they are not like them below. https://www.tooldiscounter.com/product/e-z-red-hammer-indent-crimper-ezrb790c?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhpDIyqyy5QIVFmyGCh1jgwopEAQYCyABEgLBrvD_BwE https://www.airgas.com/product/Welding-Products/Welding-Support-Equipment/Miscellaneous-Welding-Support-Equipment/p/RAD64002046?fo_c=306&fo_k=bd68fe0cc5b84012906ad5383413daea&fo_s=cstmc&s_kwcid=AL!10136!3!381226765332!!!g!814860517845!&utm_arg=SEM:Google:GSN_-_Items_-_Welding_Products-Miscellaneous_Welding_Support_Equipment::pla:pla:Airgas:welding_products::RAD64002046::PLA&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhpDIyqyy5QIVFmyGCh1jgwopEAQYBiABEgLFxPD_BwE As for shocks: They are not meant to support any kind of load and is a good way to break a shock mount! I just went with KYB's from LMC the truck does not bounce when getting in or out like it did with out shocks bolted on but cant say how they are on the road yet. If you need to support more weight either load carrying helper leaf springs or air bags with HD upper mount is the only way to go. Dave ----

I would also like to know about the LMC ones as I have wood ones now. They are nicely done but don't think they go to well with the rest of the truck. Dave ----

Thanks I would have taken the picture outside but it was raining and no glass in truck so no outside. Dave ----