FuzzFace2

Truck has new sneakers Yesterday I dropped them off around lunch time on the way home from work and I stopped by about the same time today and they had 2 already mounted, other 2 while I waited. Took a little nap, up at 1am for work kills me, then hit the garage for a spell. Cleaned the lug nut up on the bench wire wheel. They should be replaced and I have a mix of 2 different types and some are rust pitted. Once the lugs were cleaned I mounted the wheels to the truck and got it down on all 4 again. I am on stand by for work so I plan to get the dash pad painted and if dry enough mounted along with the bezels to get them out of my way. I also want to get the vent frames trimmed and in the doors so I can get the glass installed. I also have to see if Auto Zone has the door striker posts as I cant find the other 3 I should have so I have no way to keep 1 of the doors closed. Dave ----

It may not be the filter but could be if QC was sleeping when that one came down the line Dave ----

I have one I removed from a 1991 F250 but haven't installed it in my 1984 yet. My truck is a Non-AC, and there seemed to be lots of room back there, but then again I didn't try to fit it back there yet either...lol. Gary has a page on the upgrade in the Wiper section. It looks like the same one I installed in mine and I have AC. The switch and wiring went right in. On the box I could not find a screw or hole that would line up with the screw hole clip and "tab" to fit on the bottom of the dash frame to look factory installed but it is mounted up out of the way. Dave ----

If not in the mood and you do the job I feel it will not come out the best it can as your hart was not into it and why I moved on to something else. On the green I was putting it on with a sponge that had the green scruby and I worked 1 wheel at a time and rinsed with water. I did see when work the wheels the soap would turn gray. Maybe I need to hit them again as they still have some dirt stains on them. I also need to clean the back sides for the stick on wheel weights, I don't want them on the front side and I think that is all that will fit this wheel. When working the center caps I found they were ET's so wonder if the wheels are from ET also? I have not used the texture yet, bought to do this, and will let you know how it works out. Been raining pretty heavy here since 5am, even the dogs don't want to go out, so running across the yard to my garage is something I am building up to LOL Dave ---- I knew I would have an early get out day so took the wheels with me to work and on the way home dropped them off. If all goes good I should have them by EBD but this is me (look below) LOL Thanks to Bill aka BRNWAXA, member on FTE With the parts I got from Bill and some of what I have will work to make a complete working set. I see the parts have a bracket that looks to use a mirror screw to support the mirror & outer panel from cracking, I don't know if it will clear on my truck so I wanted to test fit. Also wanted to test fit before I got into painting them & replacing the rubbers. I tried to fit 1 in a door, after trying for 45 min. and only getting a little farther than I did with the other wrong parts I was going to try the other side when it hit me! Why not see if the part is the same as what came out like I did with the wrong parts! Well besides the bracket that I can cut off if I have to they are ALSO too long! Only 1.5 inches longer but enough I cant get it to pivot it into place. When I have time, most likely this weekend, I will trim a little at a time till I can get them into place then I will make them look new before installing for good. Dave ----

If the filter has an anti-drain back valve it may not be working or They no longer install the anti-drain back valves in the filter to save money? Dave ----

The ones that came on my truck were plated flat black when the rest of the truck was done by a PO. Also 1 of the custom was broken or I would have taken the paint off them and reused. The F100 from the "Ranger" parts truck would look bad next to a new custom badge and why I got both. If they do go yellow they will both do it at the same time and may not show, I hope. Dave ----

Yes that is what I was looking for. So if you took flat plate and welded a "ear" on maybe from channel for the link that may work. It looks like the ear is off set some from the base so you would need the sway bar & links in place before welding the ear to make sure it was set right. Now If I remember right there was something with the front bolt in cross member for the bar brackets also right? Dave ----

If not in the mood and you do the job I feel it will not come out the best it can as your hart was not into it and why I moved on to something else. On the green I was putting it on with a sponge that had the green scruby and I worked 1 wheel at a time and rinsed with water. I did see when work the wheels the soap would turn gray. Maybe I need to hit them again as they still have some dirt stains on them. I also need to clean the back sides for the stick on wheel weights, I don't want them on the front side and I think that is all that will fit this wheel. When working the center caps I found they were ET's so wonder if the wheels are from ET also? I have not used the texture yet, bought to do this, and will let you know how it works out. Been raining pretty heavy here since 5am, even the dogs don't want to go out, so running across the yard to my garage is something I am building up to LOL Dave ----

Thanks Gary, I think the reason they are so hard to come by in the used market is that it's quite a bit of work to remove them. Depending on how must rust there is and where the truck is sitting, getting the long mounting bolt out of the I-beam and coil spring, etc can be an UN-fun job. How hard would it be to make them? Being I have never seen them in person and that picture out of the parts book is hard to tell what it should look like. I do here you on trying to remove them because of the long bolt going thru the beam and it not wanting to come out. Dave ----

I'm having a hard time imagining where you mean. Can you post some pics showing the point of interference? I will tomorrow when I get back out to the garage. I meant to get one before and forgot. Dave ---- I had great plans to do the SEM paint on the dash but...... Just before I was going out my alarm on my phone went off ... drivers safety meeting in 1 hour! Before I left for the meeting the wife and I were talking and she wanted to know if the truck would be ready for my work's car / truck show Nov 9th? Told her was not sure as I need to get the windshield in and new tires. I can drive it with out the door glass in or door panels and other little things but tires are a big one. Wife cant drive stick so she cant take the truck anywhere and I don't want her to drive it before me testing it. So the plan is I will load the tires in my truck, it has room, and she can take them to get new tires mounted, and off I went for the meeting. So when I got back home I just did not feel like doing the dash and if you don't feel it don't do it is what I say so I moved on to something else. You know them black wheels that have tires that need to be changed? I pulled them off the truck and used paint stripper on them. Paint came off pretty easy and I think it had silver paint under the black. I also used Simple Green and a green scrub pad then used Alum. wheel cleaner and a soft brush. They look OK but they need some type of HD cleaner and a quick polish on the outer ring & fins. I took a DA sander to center caps as they had black paint on them to cover up the rust they had and then sprayed them with the same bright silver color of the bumpers. I wanted to use a little darker silver but the can would not spray. I need clean the lug nuts of paint yet. I drilled & taped the trailer hitch mount for the 7 blade trailer light connector. Need to pick up wire for the trailer brakes and run that and a 12 volt power wire from the engine bay to the light plug before I wire up the plug. I went back thru all my parts bins looking for the 3 missing door latch post .... still MIA, have to check the thread size of the 1 I have and get new ones. I also pulled out the rest of the plastic that needs to be washed and painted with the SEM paint. Don't know if I will do them the same time as the dash pad / cover as they will need a lot more prep and SEM texture spray before the paint goes on. Dave ----

I'm having a hard time imagining where you mean. Can you post some pics showing the point of interference? I will tomorrow when I get back out to the garage. I meant to get one before and forgot. Dave ----

Cory I would call that a high hump So would the ones that our trucks should have be a "mid rise hump"? I can see your rubber mat fitting over the mid rise hump a lot better. I do like the look of the new stick. That straight one looks like they forgot to install one andall they had was the pipe laying around to use Dave ----

You want to use a string that will pull in soap like a liquid dish soap, soak the string in the soap. IIRC you need to fit the chrome into the rubber first then fit the rubber to the glass. Fit the soapy string in the groove the pinch weld goes in. I liked to over lap the ends about a foot at the bottom. Fit the glass to the truck starting with the bottom pinch weld into the rubber gasket. Now pull the string a little at a time on each side to pull the rubber over the pinch weld. The bottom should be easy as pinch weld is in the rubber its when you get to the part of the gasket not over the weld. You will also need to push in on the gasket in the area the string is working the rubber. Again work a little each side of the string as you want to keep the twist of the glass / rubber even. So if working the bottom from the center work say a foot on the right then a foot on the left then back to the right pushing in on the rubber so it sits as it should. Do this all the way around till the rubber is over the pinch weld and the glass / rubber sit right. Now cleanup the soap slime install the wipers and enjoy. I have done a few to many VW bug glass when I was younger with my dad in our shop. Dave ----

When I installed a Ford T5 5sp in my 70 AMC Javelin that had a AMC T10 I had to use the T5 yoke and a joint to fit the yoke to the AMC drive shaft. Like you posted I took measurements went to NAPA they pulled out the chart and I went thru it to find the one I needed. Time to measure and hit NAPA Dave ----

Looks a little higher hump than the flat auto floor would be. I do know what you are talking about, the ZF has a higher hump than the T18/T19 cover. Dave ---- edit: yes the pan openings are different between the model of trany used. The one pictured is for my T18. I also have one for the SROD that was in my parts truck and the shifter came in a different location.

Same with my stripper '84. The rubber mat basically ends just past the front bolts for the bench seat. I do plan to replace mine at some point, but since I have the 5spd swapped in, I'll need a rubber floor from a 1988-1996 truck. My 81 custom was the same, firewall to front bolts on seat. Now I thought the floors were different if auto (flat hump) or stick (high hump)? I think for that price & no padding I would go with carpet & padding and be able to hear myself think LOL Dave -----

I just bought 2 and the "F100" from LMC Have not put them on yet. Good thing is they look to come with the clips. Dave ----

I don't think I would have found it if I did not remove that short hose harness and blow air thru it as it was leaking right at the grommet. I did not see the crack but felt the air so I pulled on each end and it came apart so it had to be fixed then LOL In my hast to fix it I cut the other hose so that is why I used hose to pass thru the grommet for both. I don't think I will have any issues with them inside the cab its the engine bay side with the heat that kills the plastic tube. On the dash it has been out from day one so made sense to do it outside on the bench. Going to prep & paint it and the kick panels being I will have all the paint out. Yes it does have the adjustable plastic things and I did raise it some but it pushed the hood up higher than the fender. It is where the hood lip goes from flat across the front to the sweep back part on the outer foot of the hood lip. Just that bend is lower and hit the grille. Looking at the hood with no grill it looks good put the grille in and you can see it is close at that point only. If I was to try anything to fix this I might end up doing damage so it will stay till it bugs me but have a feeling it will not LOL. Dave ----

There you go and welcome to the forum. Dave ----

I hope to have the vent window dividers under control and being I had the day off I got some more done on the truck. Back a few weeks ago when trying to figure why I had a high idle and was pointing to a vacuum leak I tried the HVAC control and found it was stuck on defrost. In the pass it had worked as it should so this was new to me. First thinking was the hinge broke for the blend door and was stuck on defrost. Well in checking none of the vacuum motors would move? So thinking the worst I pulled the radio to get to the control but it looked like the dash would need to come out to do so. I then checked for vacuum as I had an issue when putting the HVAC together. First was no vacuum to the tree on the firewall and then the juice can had pin holes, maybe the same thing happened again? So that is where I started this time. I found where the supply plugs into the system under the heater core access panel and pulled that apart and found almost no vacuum? Thinking back when I first got this together I went to the check valve thinking it may have a restriction, I checked that and no restriction but no check either, so will need to look into that later, but the vacuum was good. I was still not happy with the flow (like none) going thru the plastic line that supplies the HVAC control. Thinking maybe a plug in that line so I took air to blow thru it and it sounded good so I hooked vacuum buck up and still nothing WTH! So pulled that vacuum harness out to bench test with air and found the problem. The plastic line had a crack right at the grommet and could not be seen or heard but felt with air blowing thru it. Did not get a picture was in the zone but I cut the plastic lines flush with the grommet, drilled the holes bigger and used rubber hose as part of the grommet and pushed the plastic lines from either side into the rubber hoses. It now works great better than before because I would need to play with the control to get some of the air flow to work as it should. Took way more time than I wanted but I did not need to do a hinge replacement. With that working I put the HVAC control and radio back in. With that out of the way and no need to remove the dash I worked on the dash pad & cover to be one. I did a test fit and lined up all my clamps then was to wash the pad, most of the time I do this when the wife is not home, not this time LOL While the pad was drying I installed the door jamb light switches, not that I have any lights under the dash and I don't think the dome light will work but they are installed. I also ran speaker wires from the cab thru the doors with grommets and gave a quick test. Used 3 different pairs the radio & tape deck does work but sounds like crap. At some point down the road I will dig out my 3 other after market radios to see what I want to use. Dash pad now dry I glued the cover lay on and clamped it down and put weight on the flat tops to hold them to the pad and left it to set up. I turned the truck around, front out, so I had room to pull the grille to square it in the opening and keep the hood from hitting the head light door on 1 side. It is now square and have a little more room and don't think the hood will hit but I think it is the hood. That was the side that got crunched when the truck rolled. I thought just the top took the hit but it looks like it pushed that area down 1/8"or a little more. Good thing it's a driver and not a show truck LOL Only picture I took today of the cove lay glued to the pad. I need to prep it so I can paint it with SEM paint to match the dash frame. SEM is a brighter color, the cover is more maroon. The rest of the panel will also be done with SEM to match. Dave ----

The thing is I would still need to cut the divider bar shorter just to fit it up into place. Then I don't know because it was shorten if that will effect how the glass works and if the regulators are different between them. You cant look up part numbers because the glass & dividers are different so different numbers, don't know of the regulators? Thanks any way Dave ----

I think the silver with the blue as the accent color both done in BC/CC would look great. Wood in the bed not painted, paint the inside of the bed silver along with the metal strips. Dave ----

I did see that spacer and did think of pulling it so the glass would fit then I was thinking of the fuzzy channel would now sit in too far and may bind on the glass? I just think there are too many "what if's" and not having all the parts to give it a try. Dave ---- Some have asked why I need to replace them? I can tell you it's not because they are dirty and I don't want to clean them Here are some pictures Bottom of 1 of the dividers rusted away. The real issues is the outer frame that is not there any more and the broken bracket to keep the glass from turning to far. Dave ----

I did see that spacer and did think of pulling it so the glass would fit then I was thinking of the fuzzy channel would now sit in too far and may bind on the glass? I just think there are too many "what if's" and not having all the parts to give it a try. Dave ----

IDK what to tell you except: the door is the same size, shape, & construction from '80-96/7, other than a few things that DON'T affect the windows like: -the sill button hole -the small contour at the bottom rear -the ventilation louvers -the '94-up wiring harness hole diameter -the '95-up side impact beam -the mounting holes for the optional mirrors Check out the pics I posted in your other thread. I will look at the pictures a little closer but with out cutting the 5 extra inches off the "wrong" dividers it's not going in. I also don't know if I was to get the glass to go with the dividers it the regulators I have will work? I just don't want to get in deeper and have parts that don't work and I cut up to try and work and cant sell or give them away to someone that can use them the way they are. Dave ---- Some have asked why I need to replace them? I can tell you it's not because they are dirty and I don't want to clean them Here are some pictures Bottom of 1 of the dividers rusted away. The real issues is the outer frame that is not there any more and the broken bracket to keep the glass from turning to far. Dave ----