FuzzFace2

Dave, I did all of the easy stuff...lol. There's really not much work to installing the bed. Myself and 3 coworkers lifted it on there, and then it's just the 8 bolts, 3 screws to connect the fuel filler, and plug in the left and right tail lights, and bam, it's done. I have to sort out the fender liners today, get the rear bumper and brackets installed, and then start working on the interior and cleaning up the engine bay. I see you are getting an early start That is about the time I got out of bed wife would have killed me if any sooner. As it is she is not happy but got to get the truck done! Now lets get that 2nd cup of tea and hit the garage Dave ----

Mine is not Blue Tooth but a radio and I can use a cable from the phone to the head set. I use them, with out the cable & phone just radio, when cutting the grass. 3 hours bouncing around on the tractor and hearing the 3 blades run you cant hear a thing when you get off. Only thing I found is they clamp too tight on my head and wearing glasses it starts to hurt after a bit. After 3 years I did bend them out a little but only cut half the grass so not a real test if that worked yet. So far in the garage I have not needed anything but could grab the head set if needed. I also have some of them foam ear plugs handy so I don't have to run to the house for the head set. I have computer speakers up high I plug my phone into for music. Dave ----

That's only 1 side of my 3 bay garage. The other side right now is covered in plastic for painting but is covering a car, a few AMC motors & autos, some of the parts truck parts and my sons things from his apt. It's not pretty Dave ----

Thanks Gary! It does look really good, but it's far from perfect. The paint job is really nice, and I'm very pleased with it. The panel fitment, and panel alignment is not 100%, but as I said, it's an old truck, and it is what it is. Most people would never notice, but if you start examining it closely, you can see the gap imperfections. And still, I have a to-do list a MILE long....lol. That's fine though, it will give me some stuff to do over the winter. Right now, the short term goal (next few days) is to get it finished, and cleaned up. Then, I'm going to ride the wheels off it as much as I can until the roads get salted, likely sometime after mid-November. Man that is sweet looking. Here I though it would take a few days to get it back together and based on posts it was 1 day LOL Dave ----

The push / pull on the side of the shifter is what trucks that have a 2sp rear axle use. The trucka I drove you split each gear so 1st & low in the rear then shift to high in the axle then 2nd intranet & low in the axle thru all 5 tray gears. It was easy as you use your pinky & ring fingers to pull it up and the side of your hand to push it down. I hear the new GV units you can't split unless you bypass the speed controller that only uses the GV above 30 MPH. Daveven ----

Thanks guys. Even the wife likes the red and said it again when she came out to the garage to see how I was doing. Only thing I don't like about it is it is mostly clear with a red tint. I used almost a gallon just on the 2 side and the front panels. Think I need 3 more qt, to do the fenders, tail gate & running boards. I hope that will all happen when I get back next weekend. Dave ----

Dave, if I do, it's only because I'm cheating by paying a shop to do the body work...lol. They're telling me I should have it back by the end of Tuesday. The truck was in the oven, but they still want it to sit over the weekend for the paint to harden up some more. I don't have a whole lot to do to it when I get it back. 1. Install mirrors and wiper arms. 2. Install grill and front bumper. 3. Install rear bumper and license plate bracket. 4. Install new speakers in doors, run speaker wires, etc. 5. Install new driver's door switch (The one for the dome light). 6. Install interior door panels. 7. Install door gaskets/seals. 8. Fix issue with fuel sending unit in tank. 9. Install bed back on frame. 10. Install gasoline in the tank and drive! Knowing you, you will have it banged out in a weekend Dave ----

When this subject was posted before think by Cory and an Ebay ad posted I sniped it. I don't remember the part number on it, will see if I can get out to garage before I go on vacation for it. When I test fit it to the plate bracket the bracket needs a little trimming for it to fit. It was like the half round hole was not round on 1 side or something like that IIRC. Dave ---- edit: E1FZ 13550-A #Painted argent 83/ R(99) — w/std. bumper or w/o bumper That is the same PN on the box of my light and if I under stand "argent" that would be silver right? Well mine is black but not a big deal if either color as it is way down low and can hardly see the light.

In general, Ford uses a ~1" (~25mm) long ~3/16" (~6mm) diameter ~5/16" (~8mm) hex-head bolt with large captive washer, and a matching U-nut for joining body panels. For panels with few fasteners, a larger 5/16" (8mm) bolt with 3/8" (10mm) head & matching U-nut might be used. 1 & 9 in this diagram are the larger later (metric) fasteners: https://supermotors.net/getfile/885753/thumbnail/01stepinstalla.jpg An earlier example would be the horn bracket to the core support fasteners, or the ones at the top of each front wheelwell holding the hard plastic to the fender (not the tiny screws around the wheel arch). Here is why I could not use the U nut, it hangs out to far. The bolt is screwed into the U nut and into the nut / washer I welded in place. To top it off I found 6 of the nutserts. I guess I ordered 8 from McMaster Carr when I ordered the carriage bolts, nuts & washers and were in the box with the other bed bolts I dug out today. Dave ---- I welded a flange nut that the flats of the nut fit the ID of the washer and then welded the nut & washer to the bed floor. Someone said to use a U nut but the way the drop down is on the side panel for the running board I could not as it hung over the edge to far. There is a nut & washer welded there. I hit it with a little black paint. With that done I could then get the floor on the trucks frame. First was remove the rear bumper so the rear sill panel would not get marked up. The horses were far enough apart I could back the truck between them and was able to get the front of the floor high enough also but I came up about 6" to short for the bed bolts to drop into the holes. A little work and I was able to get the bolts thru the frame and the floor in place. Next came getting the side panels & front panel in place by myself, again with out marking them up.. I had all the side to floor bolts painted but none of the others so I used some un-painted ones to hold it in place till I got a game plan together. I was able to install all the side bolts with washers & nuts, the 2 top front panel bolts as you cant see them and the front panel to floor bolts. I cant tighten them down till I get the other bolts & nuts started as I may need to shift things around to fit them in but the panels are in place and not going anywhere. I did tighten the bed to frame bolts & nuts so that is not going anywhere. With that part done as far as I could for now I turned to the un-painted bolts. It worked out the card board I used for the bed side bolts for painting have enough holes for them. The other day on the way home I hit Lowes hardware looking for Preval sprayer kit, could not remember the name of it at the time. It's has a glass jar for the paint and the top is the propellant, they never heard of it. I hit the local hardware store to see if they had it and when I described it the guy lit up! I asked if they had more propellant and he did not think they made it but the whole kit was $6 so not a big deal if I needed more, they only had the 1. Got to say it works pretty good and sure beats needing to clean my HVLP spray gun. In between coats I looked over other bed bolts and braces like for the fenders and think running boards, could not test the board ones at this time. I did put the fender ones on the bed as I think they go on one of the bed side bolts. That moved me to the fenders and 1 looked like it had the stud broken in it, was lucky when I hit it with a drill bit the mudd turned to dust!. The other fender had the brace still on it because the nut was rusted. I was able to unscrew the whole assy. and take it apart in the vice. I hit the local hardware for the studs to screw into the glass fenders and take a 1/4" nut. The glass side was too long so had to trim them but they are installed with washers & locknuts when they get mounted. Dave ----

Looking good Cory I was wondering who would have their truck painted and together first you or me I think you will beat me. I still need to paint the fenders (2 colors), tail gate & running boards and put everything else back in / on. Again looks great. Dave ----

In general, Ford uses a ~1" (~25mm) long ~3/16" (~6mm) diameter ~5/16" (~8mm) hex-head bolt with large captive washer, and a matching U-nut for joining body panels. For panels with few fasteners, a larger 5/16" (8mm) bolt with 3/8" (10mm) head & matching U-nut might be used. 1 & 9 in this diagram are the larger later (metric) fasteners: https://supermotors.net/getfile/885753/thumbnail/01stepinstalla.jpg An earlier example would be the horn bracket to the core support fasteners, or the ones at the top of each front wheelwell holding the hard plastic to the fender (not the tiny screws around the wheel arch). Here is why I could not use the U nut, it hangs out to far. The bolt is screwed into the U nut and into the nut / washer I welded in place. To top it off I found 6 of the nutserts. I guess I ordered 8 from McMaster Carr when I ordered the carriage bolts, nuts & washers and were in the box with the other bed bolts I dug out today. Dave ----

Thanks I will give that a shot along with what Gary posted. I will try each one on a bolt not seen to good and see what works best. It most likely will not be for at least a week as wife & I are going to see our grandson in FL and celebrate his first year birthday. Besides I have to let the paint dry on them some as I just got done spraying them. Dave ----

Flare sides are fun to put together! I was able to run metric taps thru all the places that the bolts went into like the front panel top bolts, tail light brackets and the tail gate hinge so they are all good to go. As for this 1 bolt I got it covered with pictures to follow to show what I had to do. I used a larger ID flat washer that the flats of the flange nut would fit inside of and welded the flange to the washer then fit the flat side of the nut thru the hole in the bed floor. I checked the other side and it was solid so I left it be. I don't know why I did not do it this way to start with. The hardest part was dragging the welder across the garage just outside where the bed was. I took the day off from work so I could get the bed together some what to get it out of the house garage and back in mine to make the wife happy as its been taking up her spot. Should have pictures of the bed floor with the side panels on the truck by days end. Dave ----

In general, Ford uses a ~1" (~25mm) long ~3/16" (~6mm) diameter ~5/16" (~8mm) hex-head bolt with large captive washer, and a matching U-nut for joining body panels. For panels with few fasteners, a larger 5/16" (8mm) bolt with 3/8" (10mm) head & matching U-nut might be used. 1 & 9 in this diagram are the larger later (metric) fasteners: https://supermotors.net/getfile/885753/thumbnail/01stepinstalla.jpg An earlier example would be the horn bracket to the core support fasteners, or the ones at the top of each front wheelwell holding the hard plastic to the fender (not the tiny screws around the wheel arch). When I could not find the nutsert or rivet nut at the hardware store they offered the U nut and I got 2 but the U part is to long and the side panels drop down to the running board would hit it and push it in so the nut would not line up with the hole in the floor or the hole in the side panel. I think when I was building tis bed floor I placed the side panels on lined them up and drilled the holes to use a bolt & nut. When I got to this front bolt hole to put the nut on is when found I had no access but was too late to use a self tapping bolt as the hole was to big at this point. On the front panel to floor I also looked into the U nuts and a few other things before holes were drilled and I went with self tapping bolts. At this point the welded nut & washer to floor is the way to go but thanks for pointing out what else might have worked. Its hard being me just ask my wife LOL Dave ----

Steve this is for the bed side panels front bolt on each side. Because I am using the style side bed floor and this front bolt is inside the front bed cross member and the side panel has a panel that runs down to the running board. If I am going to do as you posted and "weld" that steel block in place, need to find a steel block and not hit the junk yard, the welded nut to fender washer, that I have both of, will have to work. I will try and get pictures of this but I am tight on time as it has to be done by midday tomorrow so I can mount the panels to the bed floor that will be mounted on the truck so I can get it back in my garage. BTW I think the upper mirror screws go in to that steel block. Dave ----

Thanks for the tip. I have to get them all together on cardboard and give them a coat or 3 then do as you said. I went thru bins this morning and pulled all the baggies marked for the bed. I was looking for the nut for the fenders as I wanted to place them on the studs so I would not need to tap them up. Well some how I came up 4 short? And I had the 1 broken stud & nut in the bag, will need to get 4 nuts & washers when I mount the fenders back on. IIRC each running board uses 5 bolts to hold it on and they need to be painted too if I have enough. Dave ---- When I got out of work today picked up a roll of peel & seal I will use for killing the drum sound in the doors. I also hit the hardware store for washers & nuts for the fenders I was missing. Also when I was painting the floor 1 of the nutsurts (sp?) popped out. I checked a few places and work, they build their own trailer trucks, and no one has them and I don't remember where I got the ones I used? I also think it popped out because the floor deformed so I picked up some fender washers & nuts. I will weld the nut to the washer and washer to the floor and should not have this issue again. I wanted to get something done today but up at 1am for work and not home till 4pm was a long day and never made it out. Dave ----

And has been pointed out when you get the new glass check where the VIN shows thru as the new glass made for the newer trucks has the VIN in a different area and cant be seen thru the glass. So make sure they check this before they install it and install the right one. Dave ----

This back fire is it out the Exh. or carb? I am thinking out the carb because of the camp fire thing you had. That could be a sign of a flat cam shaft lobe and that will show up more under load and not unless it is really flat. What happens is you build up more combustion pressure under load and if the exh valve does not open all the way to expel the gases when the intake valve opens the gases come back up the intake track. There are a few ways to check this in no order. Pull each plug wire 1 at a time to see if it stops and that will tell you what cly. you need to look closer at. Once you know what hole to look at you can pull a valve cover and measure the rockers for lift. Pull the cam shaft and measure each lobe. I have also had a bad spark plug cause a back fire out the exh. At idle it was nice and smooth but give it a little throttle and it would start popping. At first I was thinking a valve hanging open when the RPM came up because this motor only was run when I needed to more the car and that was not often. I don't remember how I found it was a plug but changed them all out and it ran like new. Dave ----

Thanks for the tip. I have to get them all together on cardboard and give them a coat or 3 then do as you said. I went thru bins this morning and pulled all the baggies marked for the bed. I was looking for the nut for the fenders as I wanted to place them on the studs so I would not need to tap them up. Well some how I came up 4 short? And I had the 1 broken stud & nut in the bag, will need to get 4 nuts & washers when I mount the fenders back on. IIRC each running board uses 5 bolts to hold it on and they need to be painted too if I have enough. Dave ----

I had a small 1 car and like you needed the dollies just to work on the sides of the car. I had no room for anything else as my car trailer with car was parked in drive in front of garage and our 2 DD were out on the street. I had to move from CT to NC to get a nice garage. Bigger garage just has more room for more stuff Dave ---- Got paint on the bed sides, front panel and the rear sill of the bed. I had no room for the tail gate or the 2 fenders & running boards with my sons stuff in my garage. I also put a coat of bed liner on the floor of the bed as I used white paint so I could mark it for trimming and the rest was looking nasty, now looks pretty good. With that done I can mount the bed floor the 2 sides & front panel and part the truck back in my garage till I can get more red paint for the other parts and have time to paint them. I also primed yesterday the bolts that hold the sides to the floor and gave them some paint today. I still need to paint the rest of the bolts & nuts don't know just how I am going to do it yet and not mess them up when I install them? I also forgot I tested the intermittent wipers yesterday and they work. I got the switch & box off Ebay and they said it worked but I had no way of testing till I got the wiper motor assy. installed. Dave ----

I had a small 1 car and like you needed the dollies just to work on the sides of the car. I had no room for anything else as my car trailer with car was parked in drive in front of garage and our 2 DD were out on the street. I had to move from CT to NC to get a nice garage. Bigger garage just has more room for more stuff Dave ----

Don't know about young'uns, will be 60 next April, but you got to do what's got to be done! I had not cut the grass in a few weeks, that a slacker So I had to do the front and back yard by the house so I would not loose the cats. Then I had to go thru the weeds to get to my garage so did that area and that just made the rest look like crap so 3 hours on the tractor, last 2 with head lights on, we got it done. Now that I am caught up on the forum out I go for some painting. Dave ----

OT My grandson is named Logan and when I first heard his name I thought of Wolverine LOL I kind of got a little laugh from them so I guess he was named after him. BTW no one in mine or her family is named Wolverine or Logan LOL Dave ---- Out in the garage about 4:30 got measurements for a member then got on the truck. When I was prepping the cab for paint I found 1 of the 2 gas tank vents was loose and I knew it would leak so I ordered 2 new valves and grommets and installed them before the bed goes back on. I then installed the front shocks to get them out from under foot. I also saw I did not install the grease fittings for the kingpins so need to find them and install when I nut & bolt the truck before it hits the road. With that done I moved the truck out so I could get intimate on the bed I saw some of the primer on the top of the bed rails that was peeling off so I hit it with the sander and fond the rails were not too flat and would stick out compared to the cab so mixed up some filler and made them flatter. I then figured how I was going to hang the bed panels and took the bed apart. I was going to paint the white on the fenders like I did the cab but I don't have the room to hang everything at 1 time. I also had to put the truck in the house garage leaving the wife's can out side, my other project car is on the other side of the house garage. We are also going on holiday and did not want to leave my DD outside. So I will get the red paint on the rear sill on the bed floor the 2 side panels and the front this way I can mount the floor and the painted panels on the truck and stick it back in my garage when we are away. When We get back I will then do the fenders and mount them to the bed and painting should be done. I wet sanded the fenders, primed the bed rails and a few places on the fenders. Used drip check sealer on some seams so water cant get in and cause rust, still have a few more to do yet. Washed the bed floor to get the dirt up as I want to roll on a coat of bed liner so it looks good again as I had to use white paint to mark where I needed to trim the floor. So this is what I started with and 6:30pm this is what the bed looked like. And if that was not enough I cut the grass till 9:30pm Dave ----

I don't know who made the unit I have but here are the measurements & pictures 53" across 15" tall front to back 3" at the top 6.5" at the bottom Front view Side view Kind of a top view Hope that helps Dave ---- edit: I did check and the seat is all the way back and it still had room between seat & rack.

Cory you ask in the wrong area but mine used Velcro to hold it to the back wall. From what I remembered it held pretty good as it was still in place when I got the truck and that was after it went on it's lid. Dave ----