FuzzFace2

IDK what you mean. I see a few cutaways in that thread. But if it's missing, how can anyone refer to it, or use it as a standard? The brass one that seems to be the topic of the thread doesn't look OE to me. Mine seems to match the last diagram in post #29. I assume you've been talking about the 2nd diagram in that post, which does seem to show a blockoff valve, but it's in the proportioning section - not the switch (piston) section. But mine isn't like that, and IDK what vehicle that diagram applies to. Yes, there are certainly some mistakes - even in the Ford manuals. But Haynes is something that's commonly available, so we can all look at the same thing. Are we sure the valve is getting psi for the rear part from the master? I know he said he got nothing OUT of the valve going to the rear but is nothing is going into the valve you would get nothing coming out. Also if the system was open for a long time or replaced all the lines so it is mostly dry it will take a lot to get 1 side or the other to build presser. I open all bleeders over night or 2 till I get fluid out. I close that one and let the others to get wet. I then start at bleeding the master like it was new out of the box. I then move to the first fitting and crack it to get fluid and work my way thru the system till I am at each wheel to do the bleeding at them. I think he just did not go back far enough, only to the outlet side of the valve, he needs to go back farther to test the master & lines. Dave ----

Oh it was not that bad LOL If you did not know the firewalls are different between trucks with factory AC and non-factory AC. I wanted AC in my non-AC truck and had a parts truck that had AC so I swapped in the AC firewall so it look factory. Yes my truck was also flat black when I got it and hated it. So I did a lot of work to return it back to factory colors. Have the rear fenders, tail gate & running boards to paint red yet and will be done this weekend. So lets see some more pictures of the truck like the custom inside. Have you though of lowering the truck a little? If you still have the factory kingpins could be and issue or I would have done that with my 81 F100. Dave ---- BTW welcome to the forum and nice looking truck

I was like what? as the rear glass is set in a rubber gasket then saw the truck. Dave ----

That is one pretty truck So tell us how much driving you tried to do and how much you got stopped and had to talk LOL Again nice job enjoy it. Dave ----

Got to keep the wife happy if it take building a shelf then be it. Thanks on the bushing for the dimmer I never looked that close I guess to see them. Dave ----

I heard of using a red hot nail to poke holes thru the carpet for the seat belt & seat bolts so it does not pull the rug apart. I will have to buy a cheap iron that I can put a knife on to cut out a bigger area when needed. Dave ----

I sure can't see it. No one is going to see it with all that beauty staring them in the face. Cory do you think you can stop driving it for a few and get some "together" pictures for us? Last pictures you posted it was missing some parts LOL Dave ----

You have to study & analyze the wiring diagrams to try to figure it out. If you can find a factory EVTM, it sometimes explains the circuit in that much detail. Yea and that makes my head hurt With the new battery it is now charging at 14 volts and I am happy with that. If I feel or see it not charging again I will let the dealer deal with it as I need it or a loaner to get to work at 3am. Wife dose not want to take or pick me up from work and I don't know if I would be able to bring the work truck, trailer truck, home every night till mine was fixed. Dave ---- My grand son give me his flu so I never made it out to the garage yesterday or today and that just killed me as I wanted to get the last of the red done. I dread going back to work right after vacation, not felling 100% and they say low to mid 90's for the week Maybe during the week if I get out early I can get more paint to be on the safe side I have enough for next weekend. Dave ----

Looks really good Did that dimmer switch cover come with the carpet or ? Don't think I have seen any like that most I seen is a ring you fit on the carpet after you cut out the hole. It will be a bit before I can get a carpet and 1 reason why I went with the bed liner. Dave ----

On my 70 AMC Javelin because I am flush mounting the front & rear glass that will be farmed out but the truck I will use the Butyl as I can do that install myself. The only thing I have not done myself was press the kingpin bushing in and ream them and I should have tried as they messed that up. I do know when to get help or farm out but this is not one of them times. Dave ----

Not all of us have a sweet sounding v8 to listen to. My six is so quiet I hear the voices in my head so I had to add the radio back in. Dave ----

I was wondering why we did not see you on the forum much yesterday, you were getting in truck time LOL With that 3.08 rear gear is like having OD just in 4th gear LOL and you still have a 5th OD to use. In moving my truck from my garage to the house I can tell the 2.75 rear gear is pretty tall. Let the clutch out all the way and with a 900 rpm idle it takes off, need to lower that idle. Dave ----

Not for that price you don't! I had the Toyota LC version to play with. When my son got old enough to play with it something broke. When looking and not finding anything is what pushed Santa to bring 2 pro racing trucks for charismas. On Saturdays we hit a local hobby shop that had an off road track out side and held races. Son would do pretty good but he was a lot younger than the others he raced. They would change the track every other week. Race clock wise 1 week then counter clock wise then change track so no one would get use to the lay out. Winter they had an inside track for smaller "class spec. racing" cars, no jumps just a flat track. I would say between the 2 trucks and the support gear we had $1000 into them and we where the "cheap" team racing. Dave ----

I wanted to get 2 of them to paint my cab, 1 for each side so I would not have to move it around along with the air hose & spray gun but HF did not have any but could order and maybe get it in a week. I went to Northern Tool and they had 2 in stock. They are a little high to step up on and the little "ladder" for the legs are too short between rungs. They worked great for painting and make a great bench seat to sit on. Dave ----

Way to go. What class did they put you in? Just like to know is all. Dave ----

Before I installed the bed I dumped 5 gallons in each tank to see where the needle would fall, not that I remember now. For me with 2 tanks I can "test" how far down the needles will go before it runs out and still make it to the gas station I would be happy with 15 MPG and more so if around the city. Dave ----

You have to study & analyze the wiring diagrams to try to figure it out. If you can find a factory EVTM, it sometimes explains the circuit in that much detail. Yea and that makes my head hurt With the new battery it is now charging at 14 volts and I am happy with that. If I feel or see it not charging again I will let the dealer deal with it as I need it or a loaner to get to work at 3am. Wife dose not want to take or pick me up from work and I don't know if I would be able to bring the work truck, trailer truck, home every night till mine was fixed. Dave ----

I don't know about cheaper. Maybe to buy the tube(s) of glue but I hear you need to heat it, it uses a special gun to get it out, there is a learning curve to get it 5/16" thick all the way around the glass and it will squeeze out and drip on the dash and why they lay down rags till it sets up. Tape is easy, is not that much money, as you said pinch weld needs to be flat for both and clean for both. Tape comes in a roll starting at the top and roll it out all the way around and lay the clean glass on top and press down all the way around to make sure it sets on the Butyl. Also if the glass sits to low or to high the moldings will not fit right. Dave ----

Looks good want to come over and fix and install my dash? No carpet at this time so should be easy Dave ----

Thanks guys I knew of the VIN window but I don't have to replace the glass just install it as I took it out for body work and to reseal with new Butyl but will make sure some dope did not install the wrong one before it is dropped in. I have done a few of the Butyl installs and know once it touches the tape it is not moving, so get it right the first time as there is no 2nd time! The pinch weld is nice and clean and flat like the glass so should not have any issues on leaks. 5/16" it is I don't know if the paint store stocks it but will get a kit ordered if not. I also need to check the molding clips to make sure I have enough from the 2 trucks to have a good set. I also know it uses 2 different types of clips and think I can get either from LMC if need be. Thanks again Dave ----

Kind of hard to see in this picture but the factory radio uses them From what I under stand depending on year truck & radio there were 2 different radio brackets. There is also a rear bracket that supports the back of the radio and is a slip in type bracket. I posted something over on FTE https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1598160-anyone-have-a-custom-stereo.html On how I think I would go about mounting the newer type of radios in our trucks. Then again I like the look of the factory radio. My radio & brackets I understand is of the 87> type mounted in my 81 F100 flare side. I got lucky and got everything off Ebay as a set, even the pig tails to splice it into my trucks harness as they cut the wires & broke the dash to get the radio out before I got the parts truck. Dave ---- edit: I just remembered the 2 brackets. The early type is like a sheet metal plate that has the holes & pin to screw it to the dash. Mine has 2 brackets (1 each side) that bolt to the side of the radio that have the holes & pin to mount to the dash. Mine also has a 3rd bracket off the rear for that slip in support. I don't know what the early ones have but guessing the same type. I think Gary listed this at one time when I was looking to see what was used and I kept seeing the flat plate type and why I listed it in the link above.

First lets not start "it is not legal ...." bla bla bla. It is my truck and it is the way "I" want to do it. Does the factory books list how thick the Butyl tape should be for the windshield? I know it comes in at least 2 sizes 5/16" & 3/8" and I want to get the right size so when I have a helping hand I can install the glass. BTW it will not pop out in a crash! I had to cut this one out so I could remove it before the dogs would get hurt on it. Dave ----

This site now requires an actual e-mail & login to access, but it's still free, and they're not spamming me (yet): http://www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams-database/ If it's a ~'02~11 Ford, the PCM just raises & lowers the "sense" voltage going into the VR to tweak the output. But without the PCM (true B+ on that circuit), the VR just behaves like an older VR and works like you'd expect. I put a later PCM-controlled alternator on my '98 MGM for a while (just switched 2 wires in the VR connector) and it worked the way the car's original "dumb" alternator was supposed to (while the original was being rebuilt). So you can bypass the PCM to diagnose that circuit; and you should make sure the case ground & output terminals are clean & shiny; if it still doesn't work, the new alt. There is only 2 wires or 1 wire and 1 cable. The cable is the out put and goes to the battery so a no brainer there. This 1 wire is maybe a 14 or 12 gauge wire and as a guess must tell the PCM, where ever that is, to raise or lower the out put of the ALT. Thing is I don't know if it works by grounding that wire thru the PCM or what? I tried to Google this for my 02 Dodge Durango but all I found was for 2000 with a 4.7 mine is a 5.9, and all the wires were different colors. I am going to throw a battery in it as it is at least 5 years old and went dead just sitting in the garage. This should give me enough juice to get it to the dealer so it does not need to be towed. They would most likely put a battery in it any way. Dave ---- Well installed a new battery in the Dodge DD and the volts came from 13.5, low side of ok, to 14 volts so I call that good and no trip at this time to the dealer. I have no clue how old that battery was but I have been in NC summer heat for 4 years now, cold & heat kill batteries. With that out of the way I went to the next town over for paint and all of down town stores are closed for "Mule Days" so no paint. I have about a qt of red and after I prep the fenders, tail gate & running boards I will paint the fenders & gate and if I have enough paint will hit the boards. I also need to find the running board bolts as they need to get painted also. If I don't paint them there is a lot more that needs to be done putting the truck together. Dave ----

This site now requires an actual e-mail & login to access, but it's still free, and they're not spamming me (yet): http://www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams-database/ If it's a ~'02~11 Ford, the PCM just raises & lowers the "sense" voltage going into the VR to tweak the output. But without the PCM (true B+ on that circuit), the VR just behaves like an older VR and works like you'd expect. I put a later PCM-controlled alternator on my '98 MGM for a while (just switched 2 wires in the VR connector) and it worked the way the car's original "dumb" alternator was supposed to (while the original was being rebuilt). So you can bypass the PCM to diagnose that circuit; and you should make sure the case ground & output terminals are clean & shiny; if it still doesn't work, the new alt. There is only 2 wires or 1 wire and 1 cable. The cable is the out put and goes to the battery so a no brainer there. This 1 wire is maybe a 14 or 12 gauge wire and as a guess must tell the PCM, where ever that is, to raise or lower the out put of the ALT. Thing is I don't know if it works by grounding that wire thru the PCM or what? I tried to Google this for my 02 Dodge Durango but all I found was for 2000 with a 4.7 mine is a 5.9, and all the wires were different colors. I am going to throw a battery in it as it is at least 5 years old and went dead just sitting in the garage. This should give me enough juice to get it to the dealer so it does not need to be towed. They would most likely put a battery in it any way. Dave ----

Added Peel & Seal to the doors to make them sound less tinny when closing and for the speakers to sound better. I gathered the painted bolts & nuts for the bed sides and got them installed and all tight. It took me a lot longer than I though it would. I do have some touching up to do to them but not bad. I than finished prepping the fenders and the 2 gas filler doors for white paint. Yes we have white paint on the rear fenders and gas doors. I don't know how I am going to paint the red yet. If they are on the stands I have then some of the edges may not get paint so going to have to figure that out. As for red paint I need I think 2 more qt's to do the fenders, running boards, bolts / nuts & tail gate. I will try and pick that up first thing in the morning so I get the red done but .......... When I pulled my DD out of the house garage to put the pick up in the DD almost did not start. I replaced the ALT. before I went on vacation and it was not charging like it should have. The PCM controls / regulates the ALT. out put and I do not know where it is or how to test it. AZ lists one for $220 but it has to be factory reset on top of that. Looks like it has to go to the dealer and if they don't have a loner I am SOL during the work week getting to work or the wife is stuck at home. Yep she is not happy as she wanted to get rid of the 02 Durango years ago but I say this is normal wear items like brakes. Dave ----