FuzzFace2

IDK what to tell you except: the door is the same size, shape, & construction from '80-96/7, other than a few things that DON'T affect the windows like: -the sill button hole -the small contour at the bottom rear -the ventilation louvers -the '94-up wiring harness hole diameter -the '95-up side impact beam -the mounting holes for the optional mirrors Check out the pics I posted in your other thread. I will look at the pictures a little closer but with out cutting the 5 extra inches off the "wrong" dividers it's not going in. I also don't know if I was to get the glass to go with the dividers it the regulators I have will work? I just don't want to get in deeper and have parts that don't work and I cut up to try and work and cant sell or give them away to someone that can use them the way they are. Dave ----

That's the glass run channel that drops inside the door - it's longer on later trucks to keep the glass in-place better, so it's an upgrade. No need to cut it off since the door is the same shape, so it will fit into an early door exactly as well as a later one. I tried for hours to get that 5" longer glass divider into place in the doors and there is NO WAY it fits. I had to force it just to get it in the door. The bottom hit the bottom of the door, the part that sticks out of the "wing" hits on the front where the hinges bolt up and the tab that bolts to the door panel side gets hung up on the regulator. If it was shorter the bolt tab would drop down just a little to clear the regulator and may fit up into place. Then as pointed out the divider is wider so I would need the glass that fits that but would it fit is the question? Being the channel is longer is the glass longer? Is the regulators different between the trucks? Being you have to cut the divider shorter to fit it into place what will hat do to the glass from going down all the way? From what I can tell of the parts I have the wing parts are the same from the pivot frame that pop rivets to the divider. BTW the wing frame is not part of the divider and I need them also. So unless someone has all the parts to send my way, I will have to cut the divider shorter (little at a time) to get it into place then fit the rest to see if it all works. I will be looking for the shorter & skinner dividers. I may have a line on a set from a member on the other forum I will keep you posted. Dave ----

What they all said I would not mind having that parked in the garage next to my flare side. Dave ----

Wood bed floor what is that If I was going to do that truck I would go back with the stock silver color and the blue pin stripe or could get fancy and do 2 tone in blue LOL But the color code would not match then again the motor does not match so? Paint the bed apart, wood showing the grain other wise why go with wood? Paint the inside of the bed the silver, mat black I think would not look good or right, darker wood with silver painted strips would look sweet. Because I had to put my bed together by myself I had the floor on the truck, front panel bolts to side panels handy, put one side on the edge of the floor lifted the front panel up so I could get 2 bolts started and that held the front & side panels in place so I could get the other side panel in place. I then dropped the bolts thru the side panels to the floor and got the nuts started, got the rest of the front panel bolts started along with the rear side panel to rear sill bolts started. Once all the bolts were started I squared up the bed panels and took a wrench to all the bolts & nuts. Dave ----

What he said. In order to use the bricknose vent windows, you need the bricknose door glass as well. It's narrower than the bullnose glass due to the wider vent window. Thanks guys for the replies I thought so on the door glass. So must be 92 on up as Bill posted 80/91HD trucks. I have to step back and see how to attack this. Thanks again Dave ----

I only ran them to the frame. My taillights were originally grounded through the bed...and good grief what an awful system that was...lol. However, it did indeed work, even on an old rusted out thing like mine. I don't think my bed would be a good ground now though, so I just went straight to the frame. My new taillights are working great btw...nice and bright! Little set back, well maybe a big set back today I was all set to install the new vent window seals into the replacements I picked up years ago and install them in the doors. When I pull the old seals I saw they were a little different from the new ones (clue 1) but never gave it another thought. Had a hell of a time installing the seal, about 90% in and I look at the old seal and see I installed it wrong so had to fix that. The next fight was trying to install the frame back in the door. First just trying to get it in the door was hell but do able (clue 2). Once in I could not swing the frame into place (clue 3). I even pulled the glass back out because I thought the upper hinge was hanging it up. When that did not work I then moved to see if I could install the other frame I had not touched yet. Never made it pass trying to get it in the door as it was not going to go (clue 3) WTH? That is when I pulled out the 2 old frames to see what was going on? The new ones are longer by 5" and why I had a hard time just getting them in the doors and could not swing it into place. So thinking I could cut the 5" off I tank a closer look and see something else. The frame the channel seal sits in is wider by 1/2"! So till I can come up with a fix the doors sit empty! So I looked at the dash pads and dash cover to see what dash & cover fit the best and see what I need to do to install in the truck. I took the edging off the pad I was trying to fix to see if the cover would fix better. It kind of dose but when installed there is a gap between the cover & dash frame that the dash pad fills in. So that pad I was looking to fix is now mostly junk. I was not in the mood to mount the cover to the pad at this time. With the pad / cover placed in the truck I them fitted the bezels to see what tabs need fixing. Looks like the bezels & pad use the same screws so will need to repair a few tabs. Being I had the bezels out I found my silver paint pen and started painting the raised parts that should be silver. I went outside the lines in a few places so need to touch up with a black marker and should be ok. Wife and I had plans to go out for 21 years being married, so called it a day. Dave ----

I only ran them to the frame. My taillights were originally grounded through the bed...and good grief what an awful system that was...lol. However, it did indeed work, even on an old rusted out thing like mine. I don't think my bed would be a good ground now though, so I just went straight to the frame. My new taillights are working great btw...nice and bright! I only ran them to the frame. My taillights were originally grounded through the bed...and good grief what an awful system that was...lol. However, it did indeed work, even on an old rusted out thing like mine. I don't think my bed would be a good ground now though, so I just went straight to the frame. My new taillights are working great btw...nice and bright! I went with the same lights and I do like the brake / turn how bright they are but would like the running light a little brighter. I also used the alum. silver duct tape on the inside where the stock ones were painted white to help make it brighter. Dave ----

Dave, My inner door panels are still not installed so I have access to the window frames. Mine is 1" wide and approx 31" long. 1984 F150. Thanks yours are like my old ones. I don't mind cutting the new ones shorter I just don't know if that 1/2" will cause any issues. What I may do is pull out the new channel seal and see how it sits in the frame. Then if it looks like it may work I can cut and install and see if the glass will fit. I just want a little more information before I go forward. Dave ----

I think an easy way to tell at least from the 2 I have and not have to pull the frames, I know you are not going to and I don't want you to, is to measure the metal frame. I will go back out and measure the 2 I have and get back. Old frame is 1" wide 31" long New frame is 1.5" wide 36" long So Cory what do yours measure 1" or 1.5" wide? Dave ----

Project just came to a screeching stop! After fighting for a long time installing the new rubber and noted the new was not just like the old but moved on any way. Then found I installed it wrong and had to fix that. Go to install the frame and cant get it to go in? I even pulled the glass back out and still will not fit so I then try the other side I have not pulled apart yet and it will not fit also WTH? I should point out that I had to get new frames as mine were rotten. So I pulled out the old ones to match up and that is when it all turned to http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/poo-23_orig.png This is what I found. I could not get them to fit because they were to long maybe 4" (did not measure) and was thinking I can cut off the extra and should fit but ........... If you look the channel the glass would fit in it also wider. Think they are from a newer truck? I got them years ago and don't remember from who now. Now it looks like there is a spacer in there that takes up the extra space but they would then mean the glass is skinner. So the question(s) is do you think I can use them by cutting the channel shorter to fit in the door? What do I do about the spacer in the channel? I don't think the new channel seal will sit all the way in to the bottom? Anyone have good vent window frames they want to sell for a 81 truck? Dave ----

I did think about that when posting before but ...... With the 6 to 8 (I forget now) bed bolts thru the bed floor, countless bolts down each side for the bed sides to the metal floor, 2 bolts per light bracket to the bed side and 3 bolts per light to bracket it is good. I forgot what I was doing when testing the lights on the brackets the nuts & lock washers were only finger tight and I had grounding sparks so had to take up on them a little more to get a good ground lights to brackets. The termite bed guys have to work to get a good ground Dave ----

The floor is bolted right to the frame, no rubber between the bed rails & top of frame as that is how it was on the style side. Now a normal flare side has the rails on wood blocks on top of the frame. Then you have the wood planks or ply wood on top of the rails. Some of this wood the bed bolts go thru then thru the rails & wood blocks so no way for it to ground. Then the bed sides sit on the wood planks or ply wood, the light brackets bolt to the bed sides so I can see why the lights need a ground like Cory did. I cant see how it could ever get a ground? I don't think I will have any problems with grounding the bed IIRC I have 6 or 8 bed bolts and my battery ground hits the frame first then to a starter bolt and a 10ga. wire from motor to firewall for the body ground. And yes I have the hood grounded to the firewall. Think I am covered Dave ----

I think one of the reasons you don't see a stick in new full size trucks and guessing cars too is the new autos run by computer keep the motor in the MPG band the EPA wants unlike autos of years gone by that did not run off a computer or had lock up converters. My DD SUV is an auto with lock up and OD and I do hit stop & go on the way home that is not too bad so taking the pick up truck a few times to work I can live with. Now my work truck is a stick, 10 speed trailer truck, you only use the clutch to start & stop and float the gears the rest of thetime. I can tell you after a 10 to 14+ hour day it is nice to drive the auto. I drove 1 auto truck we have just to move 4 trailers 2 miles and I hated it. I would rather drop the trailer hooked to my truck than drive that auto. I also hear from the cement truck drivers next door their auto trucks shift a lot different than the one I drove so maybe I would like that type but I don't see the company getting any more auto trucks. As a note new truck drivers have their lic. marked what they can & can not drive. If you test on an auto truck you can ONLY drive an auto truck. Dont know about stick if you can also drive auto & stick or just stick? It is because it takes skill to double clutch shift a stick truck. Dave ---- btw if I ever get my street AMC Javelin on the road it has a 5sp OD but that is my fun car to sport around in LOL

Yes progress cant wait to get to drive this truck! Thanks on the harness. The ground was only an issue when I tested the style side harness. I wanted to make sure I had power out back before I went cutting up the harness. I know Cory ran grounds to each of his new lights, I did not and they are grounded. Then again I have a metal floor not wood so maybe that's it? Dave ----

No trim level badges on the strippers like my truck. Just the F150. My old 1980 F100 Flareside was a Custom and it said "Custom" under the F100 on the fender, but I think that went away in the early 80's didn't it? Maybe the Custom went away with the F100 in 1983? My 81 Flare side is a Custom but it only had P/S. With a 300 six and T18, no radio and no P/B that was it so I thought it was a "striper". Other than the weave on the dash I don't know what color it was as it was spray bombed with blue then black. Dave ----

Cory, what killed the spacer? You didn't have a carb fire so what melted it? Dave ----

What color is the inside? If it is red or blue I have seen them colors in reflective also. Dave ---- Put a full day in on the truck. Wanted to get the trail lights working so that meant making a tail light harness for a flare side from the style side one. Here is the style un-taped and plugged into the truck to make sure it worked before cutting it up. At first it did not so pulled out the test light and checked fuses, I replaced them all a while ago, it was good then checked where the main harness plugs into the frame rail harness and had power there. When walking to the rear it hit me this early harness has a ground at each (note each)light NOT in the harness. Used a jumper and got 1 side to work but not the other? Remember the EACH used jumper on that ground and we had tail & turn lights out back so could move forward. I had to join the old light pig tails to the new lights and get them installed so I knew where I needed to cut the tail light harness to work. You can just make up the pig tails hanging and the trailer light Tee wires wrapped around the hitch in the above picture. This is what was removed. This is the harness made with the plugs that the plug into the tail lights on it but before putting split loom on it. Here is the plate light harness. I used 1 of the style side plate light sockets. I was able to use the harness loops on the frame to hold the harness in place. I still need to run 10 ga. wires for trailer brakes & power to charge a battery then add the 7 flat pin trailer light socket. Then moved on to putting the doors together ..... OH JOY! I must of had the latches in & out a 12 times or more. When I took them out 4 years ago I tried to keep the rods on them and they were put in bags marked to the side they went to but it was 4 years ago and I remember they were a bear to get out. I found 1 or 2 rods were on wrong and the slider lock rods needed to be bent a little to clear the door frames but latches are in. I installed new door locks as I did not have a key for the ones I had and they were paint black. Had to reuse the old clips as I could not get the new ones to fit all the way in. Next up were the door handles. The new gaskets needed work to fit right and I had to clean layers of paint off them too. Only thing I could not find was a 2nd door latch pin. I should have 4 and can only find 1??? Going to have to dig thru my parts bins again. I started to fit the door glass channels to the doors, pulled out the door glass, did a quick cleaning on them and pulled out the vent window assy. I need to do the vent window seals before I can do more work on the doors. Dave ----

What color is the inside? If it is red or blue I have seen them colors in reflective also. Dave ----

Did it have the front ones? Do the fenders have the stud or the nub the stud screwed into on the rear of the fender? I think 1 of my fenders was replaced as it was missing the brace & the stud but the nub the stud screws into was there. I thought they all had the rear but not the fronts? Thanks for the data point Dave ----

I was thinking the same thing. Could start with that gap and work your way up to see what works best. Dave ----

OUCH! At least you know there is an end to the shots. For me every now 10 weeks, was 12 weeks, I need a shot in 1 of my eyes for the rest of my life if I want to keep it. I like my eye(s) I have grown to like them Dave ----

I had to use all the harnesses from the style side parts truck because of duel tanks and I did not have a flare side tail light harness. Someone cut off the frame rail harness plug and use other wire to wire in them cheap boat trailer lights that were not wired & broken. Like Cory did I have to splice on the flare side light plugs to both the new lights and the style side harness so it should all look factory when done like the other things I have added. Dave ----

Home early from work and mounted the grille & head light doors, put the first chip in the paint : The grille is not sitting square in the opening and when I closed the hood it hit the grille and chipped it. I also could not see it was not square till the hood was closed. I have to pull it all apart and see if I can adjust the brackets the grille bolts to. This nose is from the parts truck that rolled on its roof and wonder if it get tweaked? I turned the truck around to get more room to work on the tail lights. I had to un-tape the style side harness to see what I had to work with and cut the wires & plugs off the broken factory flare side lights and prepped all wires to soilder I also see the ground wires on the style side tail light harness only goes between the light sockets and 2 eyelets that get screwed to the bed behind each light. It has been posted later years the ground runs back up front and screws to the fire wall inside the cab behind the radio. Dave ----

Weren't the original letters decals? My '84 had old cracked and weathered decals for the tailgate letters. Again, maybe this is something that changed over the years? I bought the ones on Ebay and they fit and went on nicely. My originals were white also. The gate I have that my brother sent me from calif they were painted on. On phon now so can't get a picture of when I got it. Dave ----

I was looking to paint it like the factory did but too much work so the plan it to get reflective letters as I think the back nerds more to be seen in the dark. I leave for work anywhere between 12am and 7am when it is still dark out, at work now, so the letters should do that. Other than the picture, I have not looked at the grille & head light doors since I painted them. It was the last thing I did and called it a day. On the grill & doors they should be replaced. The chrome on the doors are showing wear and 1 has a Crack thru the chrome but no money so we do what we can. What I painted on the doors was where the factory painted and cleaned the rest the best I could. Grille painted to match the doors. Dave ----