FuzzFace2

You are not the only one that hopes it holds I needed to clean up the threads on thebolt part and I thought it was 9/16"nc and found it was 5/8"nc as 1 of the garage guys at work on a die to chase the threads. I still think it needs more work so I bought a tap & die set for large jobs. It has 1/4" thru 1/2" then has 9/16", 5/8", 3/4", 7/8" and 1" Will get pictures if I don't get in the zone and forget. I did see the rear but it will not fit the flair side, it's made for the style side beds. I also don't think lights would look good in the rear bumper as it is pretty thin. I also hate this new fad of the LED light bars but short ones may work under the bumper. When I was working on getting the back up lights working they are pretty bright and maybe just an LED bulb upgrade in the factory type light may be all it needs for more rear light. Dave ----

I have the booster, master and a little more work on the motor side Z bar clutch pivot but work keeps getting in the way. I hope after wok I can get something done as I will only have 2 day before the show and it still needs to be washed & a little detailing. This is starting to turn into one of them TV shows with all the drama of dead lines due and a lot of work still needed! Welcome to Dave's garage. This week we have a 1981 Ford F100 Custom Flare Side pick up truck. We only have 2 days to go thru the truck and we know it needs brakes looked at as it does not stop but we cant get it going because something is wrong with the clutch. And the catch besides the 2 days, may only have a few hours each day to do any work on it ...... stay tuned! Dave ----

I did not really do a write up it was more of a post in here as part of my project. This is the finished product I wanted driving lights but not mounted on top or below the bumper. Looking thru LMC site I seen the late 70's truck had a front bumper with the lights in it but not so for the 80's trucks. They sell just the lights as replacements and listed the size. I then made mock up light size from card board (green in the pictures) and placed them on the bumper to see where they would look the best. The 70's they were to the center but we have the frame / mount that moved them in more and just did not work for me. Thing is if you move them to the outside of the frame / mount that puts the light on the bumper that is angled back so the lights would be pointing to the outsides and not in front. So to get them to point straight I had to angle them in the bumper and to make it look right I had to frame it out so you doing see a gap between the light & bumper. The openings could have been a little bigger to aid in light adjustment. Here are links of picture when doing this. http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=54 http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=55 Hope that helps. Dave ---- Ordered the Booster, picked up the master so should have brakes by the weekend ... I hope. Worked on the clutch linkage. The ball part of the motor side Z bar pivot broke off from the threaded part, weld never took to the ball part. I had a 2nd bolt from when this first happened so that was the start of the fix with the ball. I picked up 2 different size harden dowels and 2 different size roll pins. Plan was to drill out the center of the bolt and the ball and drive a dowel or pin in to help make it stronger then weld the he11 out of it. pictures to follow later. So that is what I did, drilled, drive a roll pin in and weld it up. I ground down the weld to make it look good. I need to run a die down the threaded part thing is it is 9/16" and my set only goes up to 1/2" so need to find one some where. Dave ----

I did not really do a write up it was more of a post in here as part of my project. This is the finished product I wanted driving lights but not mounted on top or below the bumper. Looking thru LMC site I seen the late 70's truck had a front bumper with the lights in it but not so for the 80's trucks. They sell just the lights as replacements and listed the size. I then made mock up light size from card board (green in the pictures) and placed them on the bumper to see where they would look the best. The 70's they were to the center but we have the frame / mount that moved them in more and just did not work for me. Thing is if you move them to the outside of the frame / mount that puts the light on the bumper that is angled back so the lights would be pointing to the outsides and not in front. So to get them to point straight I had to angle them in the bumper and to make it look right I had to frame it out so you doing see a gap between the light & bumper. The openings could have been a little bigger to aid in light adjustment. Here are links of picture when doing this. http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=54 http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=55 Hope that helps. Dave ----

Where did you find the speakers at as I need a set also. Dave ----

Ya know Dave, if only you had a hydraulic clutch, none of this would....hahaha. Sorry, I'm just picking on your because I know you don't like hydraulic clutches!! On the up side, the brake issues are all easy repairs. I'm not sure about the clutch linkage repairs, but I know you can handle them. Hydraulic clutch ..... to tell the truth I did give that a though if not for the different pedal set up as I hear they are different. Then the firewall plate and would not have to worry of that pivot breaking again. I will get after it tomorrow if home early. No did not but it could have gotten ugly if I did. Truck has to be running for the show Saturday and I got crazy work hours. Dave ----

I see it now! I had to go back and look at my old pics because I was pretty sure my old 1980 Flareside was an F100 Custom. See pic below from 25 years ago...and like yours, you'll notice there's no mirror...lol. There was no mirror on the passenger side when I bought that truck, and there was none on it when I sold it either! Nice work Dave, Can wait to see some photos of her out in the wild! Well we have no grin or smile from the test drive, closer to crying Home early from work so I hit the garage. Got the chrome around the windshield, wipers on, pulled the door panels, broke 2 of the clip holders, to get nuts on the mirror bolts. Wife helped with the mirrors and did a great job. I was going to wait till traffic was less but what the he11 lets go for it. Not even out the drive and the brake pedal is almost to the floor, master is toast and the booster leaks. If I don't get both got to get the master but we are still on for the test drive. Not 200 feet up the road and I cant get it in gear between shifts so had to pull over. I spend to much time in my work truck and I was to shift this the same way, float the gears and you cant really. So going to have to get use to the way this truck shifts, no big deal. Speedo does not work so don't know how fast I was going but don't think the speed limit of 55 MPH and the truck wants to dart so toe may still be off? I also found the wheel will not return to center so caster may be off also. I will have to take it to a shop to have it checked. Get back to the house after about 5 mile run and going to back it into the garage clutch in and BANG! Clutch pedal to the floor and truck still moving toward a 3 foot drop off back onto the street. Shut the truck off, remember no brakes, and it came to a stop in the middle of the yard. Well that Z bar pivot on the block side I fixed twice before broke again! Well at least it broke down in the yard. Tomorrow I will order the master and will see what time I get home if I want to deal with that clutch linkage. Dave ----

The first picture of the 6mm? bolt head is what should be used on the door arm support as that is what my truck has. That flat head screw looks to be a trim screw for maybe the sill? How long is it as I think it could be for the dash bezels too. Dave ----

Gary, sorry getting bad late on this. I measured the FORD letter pins and cam up with .125 = 1/8" The new barrel clips I got were for 1/8" pins but slipped on & off the pins. They were also bigger OD than what I pulled off the truck and would not fit in the holes. I even drilled the holes bigger and tried to use the new clips but could not get them to start in the holes and fearing they would not hold the letters and not go too big on the holes so I could not use the old clips I wound up using the old clips. I do think if I was to get the new barrel clips in the holes they would close up to grab the pins but again I did not want to risk them not so used the old ones. Thanks Dave ----

It must feel good to be this far along finally Dave. You must be (and should be) proud! Man, that is A LOT of work to have done, and to be able to stand back and say that you did all of it is very cool. A tip of the hat to you sir. Man, I'd be out driving the wheels off that thing. If the wife asks where you're going and when you'll be back, just say you don't know...lol. Thanks It does feel good that I can say "I have done all the work" as good or bad as it may be for being done in a garage. I don't think there are many that can say that. I am just waiting for someone to ask who did the work, like they do at shows, and start picking away at it that I can ask where their car / truck is and who did the work? That is if I don't beat the s*** out of them first As for the wife and going for a ride, she cant wait to go with me. She keeps coming out to see when "we" are going for a ride. She has been really good thru out this project, that she did not want me to buy as I have 2 AMC Javelins & Gremlin to work on. Then the time it took, 4 years come next month, and the money I kept putting into it. But her seeing it now looking like new she is happy and cant believe how nice it turned out. Heading out to garage, home from work already, to see if "we" cant go for that drive Dave ---- ps; did you see I got the badging on the truck?

More details: Not know when my glass helper would show up, he did about 4pm, and it being about 9am I did a few things. I worked on the door panels putting them together and got them installed, this will come back to bite me Here you can see the chunk I had to fix by the lock opening, it is that black triangle. I also used hot glue to hold the door handle gaskets as the studs were broken when I got the truck/ That white (silver) square is tape I used as a dam to hold the Plastex to fill in the screw holes. I also used the same tape to fix that chunk area. Here they are installed. Don't look to closely they are ruff and could of used a few more coats but ran out and did not want to waste it on something that will be replaced. Next was to wire up the driving / fog lights in the front bumper. Directions were NFG because you have 3 or 4 of the same color wires, blue / yellow / black that go to the lights / relays & switch. Had to do a lot of bench testing before I found what set of wires went where. With the glass installed I still need to do the chrome and wipers that I painted today also but want to wait a bit. So figured I would install the mirrors before a test drive and that is when I got bit! I need to get inside the doors to catch nuts on the mirror brackets and guess what .... door panels are installed I did not feel up to pulling the panels so called it a night. Dave ----

No blast cabinet here so cant reply on that. The controller looks small does it have a knob to apply the trailer only brakes and how do you adjust the level for the trailer loaded or un-loaded? I need to pick one up for my truck at some point and some wire to run from the engine bay to the trailer plug out back. I had to look at a picture of my 81 for that plug and it did not have it. Then again no engine computer either. Dave ----

It dose look good and there is nothing wrong with painted bumpers. I did the same to mine as no money for chroming them after I did some customizing to them. Dave ----

Not "loaded" they don't, out of stock. Loaded is you buy the booster and the master comes with it as a unit. I checked 4 other places and they were all out of stock. I think I could have gotten a booster and then a master but I did not want to do it that way. I am going to drive it a little to see how it feels. I know the booster has a leak when you step on the pedal but it still stops when moving it. Dave ---- I was told yesterday my glass helper will not help till Sunday, don't have a time but hope early morning. My part order came Friday, window crank handles & hardware and rear brake cables. Also checked on insurance as I wanted it covered for more than book value so for about $400 a year it is coved for$11,000 if the un-thinkable happens. A little nap and hit the garage at 7pm till 10pm Pulled the wheels to do the cables and before I pulled everything apart I measured the short cable and found they were the same and being both cables ended at the adjuster the cables were not why the park brake does not work. So will need to look in to why. Hunted down the windshield chrome. I was freaking out because all I could find was the bent up ones from the parts truck. I found them above the work shop to be safe. I then looked over the door panels to see just how bad they were and the A pillar covers. Decided to do a quick repair and paint of the door panels and started on them. Today started with washing the door panels, doing the needed repairs and paint them. Someone drilled screw holes across the bottom of panels and 1 had a chunk missing around the slide lock I had to fill in. They are not great and will have to do till I get money for new ones. Went digging thru my parts bins looking for the front park brake cable to see if I used the wrong one. This one is about 5" to long but based on wheel bases I cant see why it is only 5" longer? Found the other cable and I am using the shortest one I have. So I did a Rube Goldberg on the front cable to make it shorter and I now have a parking brake. I then worked on the badging. I picked up mew barrel clips for the FORD but they did not fit the holes in the hood and fell over the pins on the letters. I wound up using the old clips and drilling the hood holds bigger. I also had to ream the fender holes for the badges there also. Under hood is not complete with out the jack & handle and lug wrench so I prepped and paint the handle & lug wrench. I went and tried the jack and found it did not work so I am trying to fix it otherwise it will be a prop under the hood till I find a good one. I picked out the best the windshield chrome and cleaned it up. I also tried to straighten the bent parts. One I think can be used if I had to but the other is bent in a way I can not fix. I will get pictures after the windshield is in tomorrow. Dave ----

Thanks I cant keep the years straight when they did away with the hood letters or went to ball joints. It will not be the last time I get it wrong. The clip looks like type 2 is your post. Over the weekend I will get measurements and some pictures Dave ----

Oh, I see. So you want another Flareside to live in? Might be a bit cramped in there. Should probably look for a crew cab...lol. PS: There is a blue '84 Bullnose (Reg cab, long bed) 4x2 for sale locally that I really want. It's a 300/6 truck with 4spd, and it's the same color blue as mine. I by no means need another truck, but now that mine is mostly all finished, I don't want to use it as a truck...lol. Dont be saying that. I have been thinking if I can get the windshield in early I want to load the trash in it for the weekly run to the dump. That is why I bought the truck, think I can sneak in 1 load with out a sticker Dave ----

Not "loaded" they don't, out of stock. Loaded is you buy the booster and the master comes with it as a unit. I checked 4 other places and they were all out of stock. I think I could have gotten a booster and then a master but I did not want to do it that way. I am going to drive it a little to see how it feels. I know the booster has a leak when you step on the pedal but it still stops when moving it. Dave ----

Thanks guys LOTS of details! Now all the little things that did not look that bad when I first started are now looking pretty bad LOL Dave ---- Ordered window crank handles and hardware as my truck was missing the hardware and the handles broken & painted over. I also ordered new rear brake cables as the ones I have now (new) I think are the wrong ones because I cant get the park brake to adjust. I also tried to order a new booster / master (loaded) and no one has any and I did not want to buy 1 of each at this time. Dave -----

I have used dish soap for dusty parts like door & kick panels but for greasy parts in my parts cleaner Zep Purple industrial degreaser. I have also been known to use old gas to degrease a motor & trany. For rust I have used Electrolysis in a 5 gal. bucket as a test then moved to a home built pool on large parts, fenders & hoods and it worked pretty good on rust & removing paint. Paint stripping & rust removal on panels I use stripping pads from Eastwood, gray pads work the best. I have also soaked smaller rusty parts in Evap-O-Rust and it does ok. No blasting or case hardening here. Electrolysis pool with fender & bumper backets. Eastwood pad on an air grinder, 3/4 of hood done. Dave ----

BTTT Gary or anyone in the know for the 80/83? trucks with F O R D letters on the hood do you have the barrel nut dimensions / type for them? I have the old ones but some were bent and I got then some what straight. I also got a pack of 15 from NAPA but they are a little to big. Tthey slip on / off the pins and have not tried in the holes on the hood. I fear if I get them in and they don't fit tight to the pins I cant get them out with out hurting the paint. Thanks Dave ----

Sorry getting to this so late. Yes I pulled the truck apart back in Dec of 2015 and a lot is leaking out of the gray mater upstairs Now if I was smart enough I would have opened a book to see how they came out and back in. I had the vent assy. in the door and tried to install the glass for about 2 seconds and saw there was no way so opened the book and it said you have to pull the vent assy. for the door glass and that worked great. Dave ----

Thanks guys LOTS of details! Now all the little things that did not look that bad when I first started are now looking pretty bad LOL Dave ----

Turbines came with the truck but were painted black along with the rest of the truck. I stripped the paint and washed have not tried to polish them. My 4x2 is also high out back think that is the way they came and once a load was put in the bed it leveled out. Dave ----

Yes looking good. I just put new sneakers on my truck after I removed the black paint from the wheels. Not as big as your 32's but also not a 4x4. Dave ----

If you are going to do that just pull the motor, put it on a stand and check all the bearings. You going to oull the cam to check the cam bearings? Put the plate on and spin the pump with a drill and see what you get. If it is low then pull the motor abd check the bearings. Dave ----