FuzzFace2

True and only will know how to go with it. If you are close to GA I might know of a 300 that came from a truck that was wrecked, don't know what he wants for it. Trying to find a good used one can be hard to come by. I was lucky and found both my project truck and parts truck, less motor and some other parts, on Craig's List at the same time. Good luck on your hunt. Dave ----

I took the weekend off from working on anything and held down my chair and surfed the forums. In my travels I may have come across a NP435 transmission for a little more money than a rebuild kit for my T18. The seller is checking a few things I need to know to make sure it will fit my truck. It came out of a 86 4x2 LB with a 300 six but from the pictures it looks like it will be a bolt in other than maybe the drive shaft. I know I was looking for a 5sp but cant pass up this as mine needs to be rebuilt or replaced. The NP435 has a lower 2nd gear ratio than my T18 and you drive both as a 3sp transmission and I still have a granny low for getting loads moving. I can also go with a Advance Adaptors range splitter for over drive if I want. Have to see once I get the trans but still have an eye open for that 5sp. Dave ----

From FL to Stamford, CT 06902 was $80 and can have it by the 14th Dave ----

Yes, exactly...it's a little tall for the 302 if you're just cruising at 65 MPH and hit a hill. Almost guaranteed to have to down shift. If I'm over 2000 RPM it's much better, but I'm also going faster and have more momentum to get up the hills. Problem is, I just don't drive at 75MPH. The good thing is that 4th is still 1:1, which is exactly what it was before, do down shafting isn't drastic or anything. On flat ground though, the 5spd is nice. The 302 doesn't have much power below 2000 RPM, so it's a bit of a dog there. If it's up around 2500 RPM, it pulls very nicely, but I'm talking 4th gear...I don't think I've ever hit 2500 RPM in 5th. That is what I was thinking , RPM up where the 302 likes it and no problem. I have been watching my tach & speed to see how well the 300 pulls at a RPM / Speed. I was around 600 or 700 and about 20 MPH think 3rd maybe 4th as it is hard to shift between them, and it pulled pretty good. Pulls even better at 1000 RPM so I know mine should pull good at lower RPMs than the 302. I have also find a NP435 from a 86 that is a little more money that the rebuild kit. The 2nd gear is a little lower than my T18 and that is good when driving it like a 3sp like I do the T18. Checking a few things if it is a bolt in other than drive shaft. It is little over 6 hours away and if it fits the wife & I will make a weekend and see family when I pick it up. Then see if the banker will "loan" money for Advance Adaptor OD unit. Dave ----

Thanks for the reply I do remember the different holes in mine when I had it down for the speedo gear. The rubber mount looks like I might be able to use mine too but will not know till I have everything in place. I am sure he said it had the shift tower & stick and think I seen the stick in a picture. The only thing that worries me is how long it might be and how short the drive shaft might be with just the NP435. Then I have been looking at an AD range splitter OD unit that is just under 8" Dave ----

The T18 is in a 81 F100 4x2 short bed truck. The NP435 I don't know if LB or SB but is a 4x2 and out of an 86 truck. I hope he can get a measurement from bell to tail housing so I can compare to my T18 setup. I know the 86 uses a juice clutch and I can get the bell housing with the transmission but not sure on the fork as I don't see it in pictures. I don't think that will be an issue as the bell housing in the bolt on type and my thinking is to use my bell housing and rebuilt clutch linkage and new clutch assy. and bolt the NP435 to my bell housing. I don't know what I will need to do to the drive shaft and ask if the seller has the old one. I also don't see a rubber mount but think (hope) I can get a new one. I also hope I can reuse my cross member & brackets with out needing to move & re-drill holes. Also don't know what I would need to do to hook up the speedo? Get a cable & gear for the 86 truck? So how hard will it be to install this NP435 in place of the T18 in my truck? See anything I missed? Dave ----

Hi Dave, I did the tranny swap and motor at the same time. I had the engine dyno tested, but the dyno didn't start reading until 2800 RPM, so I don't really know what the numbers are below that point. It made 335 TQ at I believe around 3100RPM, and before the build up I believe factory spec for TQ was around 250, in the same RPM range. It was my HP that took a big jump from the factory spec of about 135 to 300, but that was at 5000+ RPM. Ford did build the trucks with the M5-R2 and 3.08 (and taller) gearing, so it's not like it's a custom set-up by any means. Actually, the truck my trans came out of was a 1991 F250 with a 302 and I assume 3.08 gears. The speedo cable drive gear in my trans is specifically for 2.75-3.08 diffs, and my spare M5-R2 is the same as well, so it was a common configuration. I shouldn't say that I find the gearing all that tall. I guess what I should be saying is that it isn't geared low. It feels pretty normal to me, like any other manual trans pickup from the 90's when 5spds were still common. The ZF5's were in the heavier trucks, and I've never really driven them, so I don't really have anything to compare to. Cory, Thanks for the feed back I was hopping to compare the 2 different transmissions with the same motor but not going to happen LOL Using Gary's gear calculator (my tire size of 235/75/15=28.9" tall) you went from a 3sp of 10.04 first gear ratio (3.26x3.08=10.04) to 5sp of 12.01 first gear ratio (3.90x3.08=12.01) So first gear is lower, not by much, for a better take off from a stop. You do end up with a OD final of 2.46 and at 65 MPH puts you at 1863 RPM. That is way below where your motor now makes any power and why you say it is geared to high. That is why I think my 300 6 would be a great fit for the M5-R2 5sp as my HP & TQ are down lower in the RPM range and even better if I went with 3.08 gear set. We also have to remember manf. were trying to get the most MPG out of everything back then and their thinking was to get the RPM as low as you can. A lot of cars & trucks were dogs back then because of the small motors, another way to get low MPG and the gearing. Thanks again. My plans may change. The T18 is hurting, PITA to shift with out grinding, and needs to be rebuilt or swapped out for something else. Would love a 5sp with over drive but I might have found a NP435 from a 86 truck for a little more money than what a rebuild kit goes for the T18. Going over gear ratios I see the NP has a lower granny but also a lower 2nd gear than the T18 and that would make it easier to start off in 2nd and drive it like a 3sp like I do the T18. I still end up with the same 1:1 4th as my T18 but if the transmission is in good shape we can add an OD unit to it. Just waiting for a reply for the person on what all he has then I can work out a deal for it and some parts he may have. Dave ----

I now see the drop downs but when I click on them only the arrow box is hi lighted, you need to click to the left to see the options. Getting closer I also see you put a blurb in where the information shows up but, don't you hate BUTT's, it looks to be cut off as are some of the upper lines. Like the box / cell does not go out far enough? Before you know it, it will be easy enough for me to use You are doing a great job Dave ---- BTW when I was in I.T. some of my jobs were Bata testing things like this so users could do their own install / up grade of apps. I would then relay back to the programmers what I found so they could make the changes. Making them dummy proof as they say.

You are also right with the BW's and them v8 cast iron autos were heavy SOB's My drag car came from the factory with one. Thing is you cant get any hop up parts for them anymore and I hear even rebuild parts a hard to find and why we go with the AMC bell TF's or the Jeep AMC bell TH400's for hi performance. Thing is some of the TF's have issues with the sprag when used for drag racing even the HD ones. Once over auto transmission deal you have to deal with bolt on hubs & axles. The hubs have splines and when installed on the axle cut splines into the axle shaft. If you get to much traction you strip the splines and no go! You can now get 1 piece axles but when I started building my drag car you could not get them. Yep fun time building a AMC drag car! Dave ----

You are right as my street car with auto uses a TF999 with the AMC bell housing. Now if you were talking of my drag car with AMC motor and using vacuum modulator you have to look at early Jeeps as they used a TH400 with the AMC bell housing. Some also used an adaptor and the BOP bell IIRC. Now being it came from a Jeep it had a 4x4 out put shaft that had to be changed to a 4x2 out put shaft and that could be from any GM TH400 auto. When dealing with AMC and making them live and go fast you have to know all the ins & outs Dave ----

:nabble_anim_claps:Yes that works. I am a little slow and took a while to see what was done. Maybe a blurb to the right they can find the answers in the Overall Gear Ratio green box to help out people like me Well done Now to put my calculator away and go play with your hard work. Dave ----

Yes that works just took me a bit to find what the change was LOL (I am slow) Maybe a little blurb on the right side with the over drive information that it shows up in the "Overall Gear Ratio"? Now to go play more Dave ----

Dave, I'm running the M5-R2 with 3.08 gears, but my tires are lower profile...I believe 28" OD. I find it geared a tiny bit on a tall side, but it's perfectly fine for what I do with the truck. I don't haul anything, and the little 302 is built up a little bit. I think it's right around 2000 RPM at 65-70 MPH...I don't remember exactly where it was. I really like the trans, and I'm hoping for some good MPG numbers when I can finally get testing it again in the spring. I bought a spare trans a while back...it was local-ish and cheap-ish (at $150) so I grabbed it. It's pretty grungy looking, but it was my plan to rebuild it when I run out of other rehab projects. Cory I was hopping you would see this and I remember you saying your setup was geared a little high. I was also thinking you have a 302 that is a higher revving motor for the HP & TQ than my stock low revving 300 and then you built it up and that would make it a little higher still. Would you know, of course you know, what your 302's HP & TQ is at what RPM's? I would like to see how it compares to a stock 300 as that can tell how well the 300 will like a M5-R2 transmission. BTW I don't remember did you do the trany swap before or after the built up motor? Dave ----

The pictures are of the channel the glass goes up & down in and he is trying to fit a new channel fuzzies in it. I just don't remember looking at mine when I installed the fuzzies to see if to long or short. Dave ----

Being winter do up a set of clamps for the front of the spring only. The rear may have a set factory clamps that are loose but make sure they are with the fronts clamped. This would take little money and time and can be a big help in controlling wheel hop as that is the first thing you have to stop. I don't know if I would go for the frame mounted bars. It turns it into something like a 4 link but you cant adjust center of gravity for lift like a 4 link does. Also how can you adjust preload or for track changes? At least with the old school traction bars you can change the rubber to adjust it. I just can't see spending money for something that may only work a little when you can get something that will work a lot for a little more money. And start a log book even if just fooling around. First it helps on filling in a log book for when you do this more and you can see from run to run and week to week what is going on. Dave ----

Yes the glass opening and you may not need to remove that hard to get off molding. But what ever works for the both of you. Dave ----

Way too much PSI in the tires, I would say try 28 PSI and use a good drag racing tire gauge. Thing is once you get a little traction you will most likely get wheel hop. Check the post above on home made spring clamps till you get Cal Trac's (hint hint). Then try flashing the converter. You may have to play with accel pump shot as you may get a bog off the line. Little by little you have to work on each issue till all fixed. If you have good traction and cant overcome the bog you can try to up the tire PSI to get a little tire spin but this can hurt the short times. It is all trying 1 thing at a time till you get the best from that change and move on to the next to do the same. Test & tune is great for this. Hope you are running a drag book log? Taking air temps and other weather conditions fi the track list them on the time slip. Then note how the run went with times from the slip and how you felt the run went. Any tire spin, bug off the line, shifted to early or late, backed out at the line so not to brake out, etc. This will also help with tuning the truck or any changes you want to make and be able to look back to see what it did. Don't over look the air temp to change times. I also found it helpful at tracks where you only got 1 run before racing. I could go back to the log book and look up different air temps even at different tracks or even a track I had not been to before to get a dial in time with just that 1 run. I used log books from Summit Racing and started it with the street car. For reaction times (RT) do you do the same thing every time before you get to the track? Yep can have an effect on times. Eat a big heavy meal 1 time and then the next candy bars your times will be different. Same goes for thru out the race day, I know that can be hard but if you want to win races it is what you have to do. I got other tid bits too LOL Dave ----

I had a long (maybe too long?) post typed and lost it. Try clamping the springs first: flate stock cut to over lap the springs on each side so you can put a bolt thru them. Flat on top of spring with bolts, flat on bottom with lock nuts and tighten to clamp the spring where the other leaves ends, you may only need 2 clamps on each front of the spring. Do not clamp the rear of the spring and if it has factory clamps loosen / remove them to let them work. On traction bars I don't think you will find ones to fit. The rubber bumper needs to hit where the bolt goes thru the main leaf or you can bend the springs. Also hard to adjust for different track conditions as you need to change out the rubber bumpers so you need to have a bunch in 1/2" leanth. Look into Cal Tracs https://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html If they don't list them for your truck call them, easy to work with them and great service. I run a set on the drag car with new stock leafs and HD gas shocks out back. I was at 1 track that was vary slick to the point some racers were thinking of not running. I may a little adjustment to the bars and it made a big difference. 4 link guys were changing holes for the bars, a lot harder & longer than me with the cal Trac's. Up front I run 90/10 shocks and 6 cly springs (v8 motor) no sway bar but some may want to run a sway bar to limit front end rise. 6cly spring compress more with the weight of a v8 and store more energy to push the front up for weight transfer. If you don't have this book find a copy https://www.amazon.com/Door-Slammers-Chassis-Dave-Morgan/dp/0963121707 I just saw the price! That has to be a miss print as it cant be that much. Anyway it is a great book for setting up a car / truck. Dave ----

Why was the mirror that is glued to the glass that can be glued in different places by anyone used? Even the factory could be off a few inches up / down or left / right or both. I have not glued my mirror back on as I don't have the visors installed and I had a truck where the mirror was glued on in the wrong place and the visor hit the mirror till the mirror fell off. I would think using something that was set from the factory like the glass open lip would be better. You can measure left / right to get center and from center on back. Think you could also use the visor holes to measure from? Dave ----

Are you flashing the converter? By that I meant foot on brake but motor at idle till the green (or 2nd to last yellow for my street car) comes on and floor it. This will "flash" the converter over stock stall a little. Because of the high gear in my street car, being a auto and had a Lock Right locker with street tires I would run a little higher tire PSI to get a little tire spin and flash the converter to help get the RPM's up and out of the hole. The car also had leaf springs and the front of the spring pack was clamped to act like MOPAR SS springs used in the late 60's. Again did not want to do a lot as I was building a drag only car but had to control wheel hop. Street car on trailer in drive after a race yep 15.70 in the 1/4 mile Drag only car 13.xx in the 1/4 but runs the numbers all day long with low .00x RT numbers As for hurting your self driving crazy I would get that way with a road race car I built. I would park it for a few weeks then pull it out for a week till to crazy and park it again! I was not racing it enough. When drag racing I never had that issue, guess I got it all out on the track as I was going just about every weekend? Dave ----

I don't remember even looking at the ends if short or longer than the channels? I knew I had the right kit as I had the vent window seals and they matched the old ones from the truck. At first I was trying to install the vent seals on replacement vent assy. and how I found out a little later the vent assy. were the wrong ones for my truck I can say I am vary pleased with the seal kit I got as it installed easily and fit was great. I still need to install them upper wind door seals as it sounds like a door is open or window is down LOL. Dave ----

Thanks for the feed back as it may helps others. On the delay wipers, I got the box & switch off Ebay used and the first time or 2 using the delay it would only delay at that setting from off. So if you wanted a lot of delay and it was off you turned it to a lot of delay and was fine. Now if you want a little less delay and turned it to less they would not work? I had to go to off then to the less delay. Same would happen if I went little to more delay? They other day I needed delay and was able to adjust the time of delay with out going to off? I am thinking the switch must have been sitting for a bit and got something on the rheostat and with me adjusting it cleaned it off? I have also found this with the radio that I also got off Ebay, the more I used the vol. the better it gets. Dave ----

Think I saw a D60 cell too? what if you put a link direct to that "cell"? like "To put the value in the cell click here" type deal? I here you on Excel, I have tried to do some spread sheets for my drag car and after asking the wife how to do something then don't do it again for few months I cant remember how it was done! I gave up LOL but I have that data on hard copy from when at the track. Dave ----

No rush for me as it will be sometime before I will do this swap and based on what has been posted looking for a small block ZF is like the needle in the hay stack and the M5 does not look all that bad when I ran the (total or final) numbers for the gear ratios. Dave ----

Did you fix something? (to make me look bad? I don't need help I do that all by my self ) I went back to the calc. page to look over some things and to take a better look over and I see some of the "cells" work better now. You can type things in and it does not put them to the right in the word field, they look to be staying in the cell. Now what is this "Cell D53" you talk of? You hung up in Excel I do see the "Other" but non-geeks may not know where to look? Then I was looking closer to the default numbers in the green fields and wondered how you could get them with out other information? Like MPH and not know the rear gear ratio? Then saw it had the right RPM for a MPH in the green, how could that be? Also had me scratching my head was when I put the numbers in the blue field I did not see any changes in the green field. Now maybe it was not working the first time I looked the other day? or what but I now see changes in the numbers. The only way I saw the numbers change today was to pick 1 number and watch it as I made a change in the blue cells. You do have to give it a few seconds but it works. So it is working just not the way I though it would - no mouse showing up over the cells and no button to push to start the calc it just does in and if not watching would think it is not working. Dave ----