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Ok, I thought I remembered an area where the ends of a wire section were where the connector group number was show and maybe the complete connector PN. The numbers there are the harness basic number 12A581 being an engine harness, 18A885 one that plugs into 12A581, 14401 is the dash harness. C460 are the pins on the side of the distributor mounted TFI module. Bill On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 11:21 AM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

I put a set of front and rear sway bars on Darth from a 1990 F250 2WD. The definitely improved the handling on corners, but the 168" wheelbase helps too as far as sweeping curves. On the king pins, are they new? If so were the bushings reamed properly or are yours plastic? I still have the original 1986 king pins in Darth and they are still well within tolerance, but I do grease them regularly.

Rusty, I just sent you an email through the site, so look for it and that will give me a way to send you the information I have for you.

Hello Randy, glad to see you here. I didn't realize you also were interested in Ford trucks.

I know he does some nice work, I have 3 valve covers, an intake and plenum, top hardware for my convertible, thermostat housing and valve cover bolts he did for me.

Is there a specific name for those style of connectors? The larger connectors at the bottom with the bolt to hold them together that might be more along the lines of what I was looking for to make my connections at my auxiliary fuse box under my hood but I would have to do the math and figure up how much current I would be flowing through each wire, I think my 100w driving lights would probably be the most load intensive circuits out of the box which would be some 7A @ 14.3V based off the 3G alternator regulator set point for voltage. But the main power wire coming in how ever I havent decided if I want one power wire to power the entire auxiliary box or split my circuits up to have two to three battery hot wires through individual fuses. Rusty, I have no idea other than "multiple junction connectors" I do have the 1995 Continental EVTM here and can at least give you the wire sizes, and possibly functions. The car has a decent size PDC underhood and a huge square fuse block inside near the pedals. The blocks snapped through the inner cowl area on the right side and the black channel snapped over them and the harness. Written on the wireway I have from the open end 150, 139 and 140 which should be the connector numbers as C150, C139 and C140. I will look at the EVTM tomorrow and maybe copy the pages so you have an idea what size wires were in them.

Ya, my thoughts exactly. I looked this morning and I don't have the parts, I must have gotten rid of them when I scrapped the 1980 frame, and when I sold the 1995 cab I think the front cable was still attached to it. Anyway, I'll order the 1995 equalizer and the 1980 adjusting rod so I can run the 1980 front cable with the 1995 rear cables. It will either work or I'll make it work lol. Ok, on Darth when I redid the brakes and inside the cab, I think I kept the 1986 rear cables, but may have used the ones on the 1993 rear axle, let me see if the pictures show anything. I used the late parking brake pedal as it and the steering column support have to be used as a pair. I did find that on the 1994-96/7 trucks the pedal assembly and front cable are common to all wheelbase lengths, there is an extension cable used on the longer wheelbase trucks. I used the cables that came with the 1993 axle and the later equalizer bar (without the built in cushion spring). One item, the 1994 up pedal assembly is self adjusting and if you do not lock the adjuster before removing the cable you are in for a fight.

Ok, here are some more, first are some non-weatherproof .060 Wedgelock connectors typically used inside the vehicle where multiple wires run and also to plug into modules such as a remote keyless entry, audio amplifier etc. These are 10, 14 and a 16 pin, the 10 and 14 are sets, the 16 is probably a plug into a module. This is a pair from a 2000 Lincoln Continental power seat switch harness. These are from a 1995 Lincoln Continental and are weatherproof and were located at the rear of the right front fender. These handled everything going from the inside of the car to underhood including lights, horn, air suspension etc. They can house 12 .110 and 28 .060 pairs giving the possibility of 120 pairs of wire passing through them. These had 21 .110 pairs and 66 .060 pairs.

And part numbers/sources? I have pictures and PNs for the terminals. Ford calls these Wedgelock connectors from the way the terminals are retained in the shells. I only had salvaged .060 parts when I took the pictures but had found a good source for the .110 parts. First the .060 female, Ford PN E7EB-14487-AA, Clips & Fasteners A18408 Next the .060 male, Ford PN E7EB-14461-BA, AUVECO 20475 Now the .110 female, Ford PN D1AB-14488-CA, Dorman 85356, AUVECO 14888 Last the .110 male, Ford PN D1AB-14461-AA, Dorman 85345, AUVECO 14887

I was thinking of asking you about that.

I ran into a situation on Darth when I went to use the C2 pump from the 1990 Parts truck, the pressure fitting was metric where the 1986 was US standard. I just changed the hose as it was probably the original.

Ok Rusty, as promised with the exception on one non-weatherproof set. First 8 pin round for .060" diameter pins, they are 5 colors and by changing gender in a group Ford has 10 combinations. These were used 88-91 on the engine, transmission and chassis to front end connections and used in the rear for tail lights: Next some 4 pin versions, common on HO2S and other sensors: You can see from the seals that Ford only used as many pins as were needed and left the other locations blank. Now for the .110 connectors, 4 seems to be the biggest other than the 1987-91 and the outer rows on the 1992-97 bulkhead connectors that Ford used in weatherproof connectors: Now for some more unusual ones, these are from late 90s/2000s Panther platform cars, four .110 and eight .060 pins not all of which were used. These are a PITA to disassemble, but once done if the red retainers are left unlatched the wires slide in easily: A few more for your perusal: Enjoy and see if these will work for you.

I will see if I can get pictures of the newer weatherproof ones for you today.

Ill take a look at those connectors if they look very similar I wont mind using them I just dont like having a visually different connector. Such as going form a semi round OE ford connector to a perfectly square connector that is only had in bright grey with bright red/orange weather seals. I don't have pictures of the small pin ones right now, I will have to get some, also, on these I need to get the PNs off them. These are the non-weatherproof ones and use the .110 pins

Seems like most OE Ford connectors for this vintage are hard to find but companies can get them just fine its the consumers that just cant really get them. Its like Custom Auto Wire, their systems use OE connectors as well for our trucks from the photos I seen of the update wiring kit. Rusty, if you move up a few years, Ford changed their connector design to some very nice multi-pin style, in .060" and .110" diameter male/female pins. They are available in weather proof and non-weatherproof styles. The larger ones seem to stop at 4 pins for the common weatherproof ones, the smaller ones go as high as 16 pins, but are frequently 8 pin round connectors. The actual pins and female sockets are available aftermarket from Dorman among others. These used inside the vehicle have an O-ring in the female shell (has the male pins in it) and outside will also have a rubber gasket the wires pass through on both ends to make the whole thing weatherproof. I have updated all of the wiring on Darth to the newer connectors and have a load of salvaged parts from scrap harnesses.

Yes, I had ordered several of these as the were not expensive, they have 3 sets of 3 pins on each side. The 2nd, 5th and 8th set are connected to the 3rd, 6th and 9th respectively with the switch in and 1st, 4th and 7th respectively with it out. due to the design of the system in 1990 and the use of very small switches to operated all the lighting, Chrysler used a bank of relays, 4 of which are for turn signals, 2 more are for cornering lights if installed. Since all this switch needs to handle is the flasher feed (15 amps hazard fuse and 20 amp signals) and to ground the 4 relays it should be OK. The extra pair of wires (yellow and black) are for the illumination bulb. Now I need to come up with a button or a new lens for one of the GM ones. One had a cracked inside tab, so I took it apart for some measurements of the button and lens.

Well, after getting the panel built, and going through some other things, I found the switch parts I had wanted to use to make it a push on, push off system, where in is normal and out is hazard on. I had a GM HVAC control I had gotten at Pick-n-Pull that had several push on, push off controls. Problem is they are a DPST switch that turns on or off functions. I had bought some 6 pole single throw switches to try to build something that would work. I tried doing one by soldering wires to the pins, melted part of the switch as they are intended to be mounted to a PC board. The GM HVAC panel has small plugs that connect to various places, the pin spacing on the plugs exactly matches the pin spacing on the switches, so that means no soldering of wires to the switch. The front two pins are grounds so when the switch is in hazard the second row is grounded. All 4 turn signals are turned on or off with relays and one side is left side the other right side through a diode package that allows left and right turn or hazard. The plug is a 6 pin of which 5 are used to switch the flasher from turn to hazard mode which also changes the power source from ignition switched to direct battery.

Ok, let me try this again. I had posted a nice reply and it vanished into the Nabble black hole. In looking at your pictures, I see what appears to be two of the battery isolator relays, one in front and one back on the driver's side firewall. On Darth, when I converted to the 1995/96 harnesses, I ran the large feed wire to the PDC from the starter relay hot post, across the top of the radiator opening, under the overflow/washer reservoir and air filter mounts to the PDC which sits roughly just back of center on the inner fender. The auxiliary relay box (trailer stop and turn, backup and battery charge) mounts to the back of the PDC mount. The 42 way engine connector carries everything to and from the engine except for the alternator and front O2 sensors. As I mentioned a while back, the PowerStroke trucks, 94 1/2 - 1997 have the washer reservoir on the right inner fender. If you want to try it, I have one or two extra Chrysler overflow reservoirs that are tall and not super wide so might fit in the radiator side area with the large portion under one of the battery trays.

My son had a 1965 Corsa coupe, 140hp 4 speed and it had the "heavy duty" suspension (handling package) including the faster ratio steering. That was the package that was turned into the Yenko Stinger. I rejetted the carbs and put lighter power valve weights in the primaries. It had an Otto OT20 cam and was somewhere between a stage I and Stage II Yenko package in addition to having .030 cylinder kits. We were in Richmond VA for the opening of the Corvair Museum, now relocated to Michigan I believe, and one of the club members who had a strong 110hp early model was told to "teach Matt a lesson", he pulled along side on I64 and did the classic "I wanna race" maneuver. I told Matt "go ahead", he dropped it to 3rd, and walked away from him.

He forgot to ask what color. Want to drive one crazy, ask for a radiator for a 1965 Corsa.

I've never seen a bolt head with a groove, it is in the actual remote cooler adapter or the "grenade" oil to water one in the lower hose. Here you can see the O-ring in it's groove under the bolt head:

Superbee should have had an Airtemp RV2 compressor unless it was an aftermarket system, and those RV2 units did "gallop" almost as bad as a Harley at idle. Once the rpm came up they didn't have the "drone" of the Tecumseh or York twins.

Bob, that is exactly why I bought the Hayes Genesis, it retails for around $100 but is a deceleration based unit. Years ago, a fellow employee at NNS and I brainstormed a strain gauged draw bar concept that would keep a fixed drag on the tow vehicle when the brakes were applied. I'm sure it could have been worked out and would have been excellent as long as the tow vehicle did not brake harder than the load being towed. The Genesis is supposed to be "almost equal" to the older hydraulic actuated ones.

There shouldn't be any reason he couldn't use the original 1985/86 location, the EEC-IV and EEC-V boxes are the same physical size and if he kept the original grommet he should be able to use it for the wire harness. The power relay is there, and the same fuel pump relay should work, but if not a pair of the later Bosch relays could be mounted next to it.

I bought a pack of 5 -87147-S91 O-rings from Kool Ford in Keller VA along with some F0TZ-6749-B square cut O-rings for the bolt head seal (groove in the adapter for the remote oil cooler).