85lebaront2

It's not the adaptive learning it is the EEC picking up the basic parameters, specifically things like "how high a duty cycle is needed on the IAC for 1000 rpm".

Gary, if you simply pull the EEC power keep alive power fuse, it will clear the memory which is what Ben wants. Once that is done it takes a little bit for the EEC to relearn the basic parameters. Darth does strange things after a battery disconnect or fuse pull.

I tested a set of 8 for two different Chevy engines. One was a 1996 454 where they are buried inside the middle of the intake. The other was an LT1 350 Chevy. On the 454, once the top half of the intake was off you could see which ones were leaking by energizing the fuel pump and watching for which ones either sprayed or dribbled. On the LT1, 8 small glass jars, one under each injector with the sets pulled out and crank it then see if any were dry and any dribbled. If your engine doesn't have the retaining clips for the injectors, many vehicles do and you should be able to find some.

I needed glass for a pair of Chrysler LeBaron power mirrors. The local glass shop here was able to obtain replacements for me and install them. Right side is the convex style with the objects are closer than they appear script on it.

Just about every function/setting in BE that can be disabled has a 0 value to disable it. The misfire detector was one of the OBD-II required features, and on newer vehicles will (and might on the 460s) give the specific cylinder number that is misfiring. It works by detecting a change in the time between pulses and the slight rpm change. The trigger is set at a specified (I found it once) number of degrees ATDC so a misfire is evident in the longer time from the previous triggered pulse. It also is inactive above a certain rpm that is in the misfire detection tables.

Mine is set to 0 because I do not (nor do you) have the misfire detector. It mounts on the timing cover and is triggered by a 4 pronged trigger that is part of the external balance weight.

Let me expand a bit on what Gary said. First the EEC-IV system EECs are not reprogrammable, they require use of a piggyback device such as a TwEEcer or Moates Quarterhorse. One advantage to the smaller engines (302/351) is there is a lot of support for those engines in the Mustang groups. The 460 EFI systems started in 1988 and are probably one of the worst systems Ford built. Everything points to it was emission requirement driven and in stock form has a penchant for problems in #5 cylinder leading to oil consumption. The exhaust went backwards from the mid 1984-87 system. The 460s did not receive to nice tuned runner intakes of the smaller V8s, using what is essentially a modified 4 barrel intake topped with a ? shaped upper plenum.In 1996, part of the OBD-II requirements called for the capability for dealer level computer reprogramming capability to solve the issue with having to replace the computer for updates (specific example, there are a load of different 1985/86 5.0L computer numbers due to updates). There are only 3 different 460 MAF system computers, FEZ1,2 & 3.The trucks started getting MAF/SEFI systems with the 1994 model year on the 5.0L, 5.8L in 1995. All except the HD models and 460s in 1996. One truck peculiar issue that crops up, no car ever came with an E4OD because it is huge, the mount is 7" further back than a C6. The smaller 4R70 series was installed in cars, so a 351 with a 4R70W can be run with a reflashed car EEC and definitely a 302 and 4R70W can.

As Gary said, I did my EFI conversion over 10 years ago. My goal was two fold, the need for a control system for an E4OD and the fact that Darth was never really an everyday driver (finding a parking space for a 22 foot long, 8 foot wide vehicle is interesting). With the carbureted engine, even "cheating" by priming the fuel system with the electric pumps it could still be a pain. Once primed and started it wasn't bad. Fuel "economy" was a pretty solid 10 unless I was towing the 5th wheel, then it went down to about 8. What I was finding was (a) E4OD requires a computer of some wind to control it (b) EFI conversions I was finding were TBI systems, essentially a pressure carburetor. Prices for either were high, $1500 for a Baumann transmission controller, and even more for a TBI conversion. Having spent a number of years working on vehicles including 3 years at a Dodge/Jaguar/MG/Mercedes-Benz/Mitsubishi (colt)/Sunbeam (Cricket) dealership I was familiar with EFI and mechanical injection systems. While trying to find a way to set up a 5.0L E4OD computer for a 460 E4OD combination, I was hitting a brick wall due to no information on how to re-program a Mass Air control 5.0L EEC to work on a MAP control 460. End result, while searching, Adam Marrer (now part of Core Tuning) contacted me and we worked out a system using a reflashable EEC-V computer.

That could only be a bad gasket, but, getting the bolts out can be mission impossible. Getting it good and hot might do it as they will get red hot after a good run. Does your truck have the dual air pumps with the pipes to the manifolds? One of the issues on the right side (cyls 1 - 4) is access to the bolts around the upper spring seats on a 2WD model. Removing the inner fender plastic liner helps as you can get a straight shot at several of the bolts.

Gee, and someone I seem to remember questioned why I converted Darth.

That's the same hose I snagged at Pick-n-Pull for Darth. It is definitely shorter than the old dual air pump one.

Here's the log for C/L with red arrows showing tip outs and green arrows showing tip ins. Looks to me like that exactly fits the definition of the manifold volume being too high. Does that make sense to y'all? I still have the powder coated intake and plenum not installed yet. Let me look at the FEZ3 (factory MAF/SEFI/E4OD tune) and see what it shows for intake volume. Loading FEZ2 and looking at the value, it shows intake manifold size in liters as 5.000 Liters. Since that is the factory tune for a 1996 CA spec 460 with E4OD that is where the value came from. I guess my question would be is that the entire intake volume including the plenum? Does it also include the intake ports?

Yes, that is the relay coils, the seat circuit has a 30 amp breaker and it is possible to have two motors stalled at the end of either going full up or full down. Biggest thing was to get rid of nearly 10 feet of wiring between the power/ground source through the switch and back to the motors. The updated system has 12 ga feed and ground to within 6" of the relay contacts where it branches to 6 16 ga power and ground feeds.

Got some more of the power seat relays done. Here is the relay block with the relays and wiring labeled: The wiring is not done as all one piece, but is in three sections, under seat, sill plate and door. Here is the sill plate: Here is the section inside the door and into the left kick panel connection area: This is the switch connections and switch: All the wiring switch to relays is 20 ga, max current load is 0.28 amps at 13.7 VDC with either of the seat up or down (both ends at once) switches actuated.

It would really help if you could put some details as to what your truck is, engine etc. Then we could give you better informed answers.

Jim, I should have replied to this one earlier, Holley introduced the double pumper mechanical secondary carbs around 1969 or 1970, we sold a load of them.

I was meaning to tell you that I occasionally have an issue with my desktop PC losing the keyboard input from the wireless keyboard receiver. Other than the pain of crawling under the desk to unplug and replug the USB cable a few times that fixes it for several months. Radio Shack Control Contact Cleaner and Lubricant helps a lot and I would imagine Amazon has something similar.

I think I have one or two extra of these older MacBooks (the ones with the Intel processor) that have the dual USB 2.0 ports. They will run Windows quite well in a dual boot configuration.

You made a decision while I was getting some information on what I use. First, I have a MacBook Pro that I have set up as a dual boot, MAC OS and Windows 10. It has two USB 2.0 ports, so I have a Connectland USB 2.0 hub that has a switch for each of it's 4 ports. Second, when flashing or datalogging I plug the Mongoose Pro into one of the computer's USB ports, and the Connectland hub into the other. I then connect my wideband, Dongle and Mouse receiver into 3 of it's ports and turn them on. The wideband's serial output cable is connected to a Sabrent Serial to USB adapter cable.

Jim, I don't know which computer he is using, I sent him one to help get started, and I think he has another one. He is at least close to one of the three from Core Tuning. I never tried to integrate my wideband O2 sensor into the computer, I only used it for datalogging and as a glance at the reading occasionally item.

I had to do some digging, Ford changed the caliper design and mounting between 1985 and 1986. Darth uses two strange split pins with rubber between them, I remember dealing with the retention system you have on my 1977 F150 and possibly on some of my big Ford cars. The only things I can come up with as a reason, would be (a) caliper is either worn a lot where it slides on the bracket or (b) bracket is worn or bent so the fit is loose. The only way I can think of to determine which is the cause will involve a bit of measuring. The width of both the caliper slide areas and the spacing of the caliper mounting bracket will need to be determined. Unfortunately, I imagine the caliper mount is part of the spindle and not removable like a 2WD generally is. If it is removable, I would try (even though it will be a pain) checking the fit on the opposite side caliper to see if there is a difference in the fit.

The other item from yesterday was a "topping off" party. Had the neighbor and his wife and two sons come over and this got done: It still needs a nice warm day to soften the vinyl some more so I can smooth it out. Top will need to be replaced as it was originally installed on the 1985 in 2003 and has been stored since late 2009.

Gary, that did work and I have some that is a little lighter, but looks nice on the panel inserts. One of the items I am redoing relates to the power windows and seat. On the 1986, the power window switches were laid out relatively normally, master switch in left door armrest, one for the passenger side in that door armrest, and no switches in the back. The 1989 center console has all 4 window switches in it along with the power top and rear window defroster. The 1986 Power seat has the switches on the outside of the lower cushion area, the 1989 convertible has them in the left door armrest, but the 1989 coupe has them in the center console. I modified the left armrest switch panel to use the 1989 coupe power seat switch, but after some further thoughts (primarily voltage drop) harness from the switch to the seat motors ended up being about 8 feet end to end, so 16 feet round trip from switch through motor and return. My solution is a set of 6 small Bosch relays that will be mounted under the seat and fed/grounded with 14ga red and black wires. This also removes 1 12ga red wire from the door harness and 6 16 ga wires, black 12 ga stays as it is the ground for the other items and was the power window switch ground. Since the relay coils can be grounded along with the 87a terminals under the seat and the relay coils work with 20 ga feeds, my door to body wiring will be a bit more compact. The switch to relay wires are nicely color coded 20 ga silicone insulated and extremely flexible. Here is the relay block. 1 - 2 are horizontal, 3 - 4 are front vertical, 5 - 6 are rear vertical. Power and ground are the red and black "spiders" black being double, 16 ga to relay 87a and 18 ga to relay coil 85, small colored wires are 20 ga the relay coil 86. Relays are actual later Chrysler parts.

I think the current schedule is around the 32nd of Juvember.

Right now Darth is not being driven due to either a blown left head gasket or a cracked head. Neither of which will even be investigated until the new engine is installed, after that I will probably disassemble the old one.