85lebaront2

That is great! My 2 boys also had Ford trucks, younger one (46 years old now) has a 2002 Excursion he bought when they were cheap as no one wanted them at that time. Knowing how to repair things is great knowledge to have, even my daughter knows how to do things, like change brake pads.

Gary, having dealt with numerous part numbering systems (Ford, GM, Chrysler, Mercedes-Benz, Jaguar, MG to name the bulk of them) I have found that Ford and Mercedes-Benz have the most logical ones to follow. The center part of a Ford PN identifies the basic part, like 12B579 is on MAFs, 9424 is intake manifolds, 9510 is carburetors. Mercedes-Benz PNs are numeric in 3 groups of 3, 1 group of 2. In theirs the second set of 3 is the basic group, I believe 260 is transmissions. First group of 3 is the engine or chassis the part was first used on (like for years the 9" carrier to axle gasket had a B7A prefix) for example, an engine PN for the DOHC 2.8L would be 110 as it is an M110 engine. 116 was the 3.5L V8, 117 the 4.5L V8.

1994 is capable of delivering live data to a good scan tool (not a parts store one).

My son's 1986 F150 had the filter in it. He found that out when his would act like it was starving for fuel (it was) and the Bosch high pressure pump would start making a horrible racket trying to get fuel. Now, it might be like other changes, different plants changed as they exhausted the supply on-hand. His truck was built in Norfolk.

A couple of things, the 1985-86 5.0L EFI trucks I have worked on, the engine wiring was in terrible condition, bare areas, cracked insulation etc. The second item, the entire system grounds at an open to the underhood air plug attached the battery negative post. I have seen the plug so green with corrosion it was nearly an open circuit.

The question would be, did any of the cars using the 400 come with a Saginaw pump? I know some Lincolns with 460s used Saginaw pumps, I put a Lincoln front dress on a 1971 Mercury 429, primarily to get the GM A6 compressor instead of the York or Tecumseh twin.

Very true. This is why I always rebuild mine rather than buy a rebuilt. The better rebuilds used to come with bushed shaft bores and new shafts.

Keep on buying Walker and Monroe, it helps one part of my pension. I ran into an issue years ago on my 1971 Mercury Colony Park. I needed a muffler and tail pipe, Muffler was no problem but, parts store showed one tailpipe for the wagons (Ford or Mercury) with a 6 cyl and one for all V8s, 302-429 4 barrel. The original part was 1 7/8" for 302, 2" for 351 and 2 1/4" for 429 2 or 4 barrel

You just named the reason I will never buy a Tomco anything. Their kits were junk, super soft gaskets, and a needle and seat that rarely worked. I also know what I used to sell to J.N.Grillo, a core supplier out of New York. Carburetors slapped together with mis-matched parts just to get a core value. The best one of all, Vince came down one time and was looking for the Holley 4 barrels Chrysler used, he was willing to pay top dollar for them. I went to all the MOPAR dealers in my area and gave the service managers $1 a hole ($4 each carb) for them. When Vince came back I had 4 55 gal barrels full of them, he dumped one and counted, multiplied the count by 4 and then I think he was paying $15 each for them, he was peeling $100 and even a couple of $500 bills off his roll. Next time he came down he looked at me and said "You got me good on those" bottom dropped out on those.

Glad you got it sorted. They really are an easy carburetor to rebuild.

16:1 is quite lean, the old 2 barrel 390s would run that lean with no problems and that was with breaker points. Have you taken any of the plugs out and examined them for carbon build up on the insulator and for burned electrodes? On coil failure, I have seen a few, I have also seen carbon tracking on the coil tower leading to arcing to the can or one of the primary wires.

4R70W also, but like the E4OD is also requires an electronic controller. 4R70W or 75W is essentially the same physical size as an AOD (it was a descendant of the AOD to allow computer control). That would just need a controller and no drive line changes.

One quick way to look for plug wire issues is check at night in the dark, a glow around the wires indicates weak insulation. One other item, check voltage at the coil + terminal running, I believe it should be around 6-7 volts DC due to the resistance wire in the harness. If it is low then that will cause misfiring (bucking). On the older Fords it was made as a plug in wire built into the dash harness and was available as a service part. You bought the service wire, unplugged the bad one and plugged the new one in and secured it to the harness.

If you do not have the diagram on your radiator support, here is the 1985 all 5.0L EFI: The solenoids are behind the battery along with the MAP sensor and a vacuum reservoir.

The piece om the inner fender is part of an old trailer electric brake control. They were used with a brake controller like this, if needed: This is a hydraulic actuated electric brake controller made by Kelsey-Hayes and is no longer as it is not compatible with ABS systems.

One thing to try before you get too far down the rabbit hole. Find a safe area where you can back up fairly fast then hit the brakes. If you can't slide the front wheels under those conditions, then it may well be the proportioning valve causing your problem.

I do hope it is a Marine grade starter, they are sealed so they can't spark and ignite fumes in the bilge.

That is the same place Darth was leaking, I found no sealer inside that vent area in the corner where the side, floor and firewall all join.

I guess I should start with a picture of the valve. Here is a view from above with the bed removed: And one from the front (axle was out as I was changing it): The valve reduces the pressure to the rear brakes under light loads, as the load is increased and the frame comes down closer to the axle the pressure is increased to compensate. There is another brake valve up front under the master cylinder, it also regulates the brake pressure to the rear an addition to providing a failure warning.

That was a Teflon bushing for the choke shaft. A lot of the rebuilders replace them with a brass or bronze one. That involves boring a larger hole in the housing.

Chrysler put turbos on the 2.2L engines because they were getting killed in the market by Ford and GM who both had V6s in the K-car size range. Chevy had a 2.8L V6 optional in the Citation, Ford had a 4 cyl engine for the Taurus but it was only in fleet sales, most had a 3.0L V6. Until Chrysler got the Mitsubishi 3.0L OHC V6, their "big engine" was the 2.6L Mitsubishi 4 cyl, which was a mediocre performer with poor fuel economy. Let's step back to 1964, Lee Iacocca was head of Ford Division and they had released a sensation in April, the Mustang. Dropping the Fairlane's HiPo 289 in the Mustang helped, but it needed to be a race winner if it was to really sell. In 1962 a Texas chicken farmer and former race car driver named Carol Shelby had an idea for a V8 powered sports car, Chevrolet turned him down on buying their engines, so he called Ford, Lee Lacocca thought he had a good idea and since the Ford 221/260 were a bit lighter than the Chevy it sounded good to Shelby. He was almost as much of a con artist as Smokey Yunick, He built a prototype after convincing AC cars he had an engine (he didn't at that time) and Ford that he had the cars (also not true at that time). He took it to car shows (I saw it in Norfolk VA) and painted it between shows so it looked like there were several cars. Iacocca called Shelby and asked if he thought he could make the Mustang into a race car to compete with the Corvettes, he did just that. Now, Ford had canned Iacocca because he was getting too powerful and wasn't part of the family, he landed at Chrysler charged with saving them. When Ford fired him, all the projects he was working on were scrapped, one of which was a smaller FWD 6 passenger car, this was the basis for the K-car. Engines, Chrysler had just introduced a new 2.2L 4 cyl which was a decent running engine particularly in the Omni and Horizon. Iacocca wanted to add some spice to the lineup and called Shelby, first out was the Omni GLH for "goes like hell", a high compression 2.2L that put out 110HP carbureted, Chrysler was already building some turbocharged 2.2L engines that put out 142HP. Shelby put more boost, a better intake and an intercooler and upped it to 175HP. These were called Turbo II and had a forged crank, larger rods and a two piece intake. Dropped in an Omni, it became the GLHS Shelby and Chrysler's engineers came up with the turbo III, a DOHC 2.2L and the turbo IV a variable nozzle turbo and turbocharged the 2.5L that replaced the Mitsubishi 2.6L starting in 1986.

The one for the later Fords is bigger.

If you will message me at wavose at g mail dot com with your email I will send you the pictures and information I sent to EGR brakes.

There was a tool that had a pilot that went into the recess in the jet and had two short "blades" one on either side. The top end had a "T" handle. I had nearly every carburetor tool made, but in clearing out my old garage and house the box didn't get packed.

Ok, the wires on Darth were yellow and came through the firewall under the AC case.