85lebaront2

Jim, the C & C trucks have a different rear frame due to the use of a Dana rear axle rather than the wider Sterling 10.25". On bleeding the clutch hydraulics, from a Mercedes-Benz manual (their clutch master is inside and essentially is where a mechanical clutch rod would go, so is near vertical) They use the nearest front caliper to reverse bleed. Take a suitable hose that is a snug fit on the bleeder screws connect the clutch slave bleeder to the caliper bleeder. Open the clutch slave bleeder at least 1/2 turn. Bleed the caliper through the clutch slave until all the bubbles are gone. Two items (a) M-B clutch hydraulics use the brake system reservoir (b) it works better if the clutch supply line is at the upper fitting on the slave. This also works on rear or mid engine hydraulic clutches (Fiat X1/9).

And everything I read says USB-C is fully backward compatible with USB 1.0, 2.0, and 3.0, which are the protocols used in USB-A connectors. But for some reason my Mongoose cable with a USB-A connector plugged into a USB-A to USB-C converter which is plugged into a Thunderbolt 4 port doesn't work. I wonder if a Thunderbolt 4 to USB-A converter would, but everything I'm finding with a brand I recognize is $200+, and I'm not willing to gamble on that since I have a solution. We went through a bunch of this a few years back when we got newer MacBook Pros. They use Lightning ports. We had to get Lightning to USB adapters for things like a mouse. Hopefully market pressure will force everyone to a mutually cross compatible system. I thought my Mongoose Pro cable was bad, but found a shot of Radio Shack contact cleaner and lubricant fixed the problem.

I have a 4 port USB 2.0 expander. The switches opposite the ports allow you to turn them on or off.

I had a TwEECer and sold it when I went to an EEC-V system. I am now using BE (Binary Editor) and a Mongoose Pro pass through cable to reflash my EEC-V box. I have been using it for over 10 years (since May 2013). Core Tuning is the source. Gary Lewis has started using Tuner Pro and I also have another one I use but not on Fords, it is MPTune and is for Chrysler computers.

Amen to that! When I bought "Big Ugly" the 1990 F250, I was told that the wiper switch stop was broken and it would go past off, when I checked it had intermittent wipers, PO never knew it.

Well, at this point the above doesn't appear to be true. Just spent considerable time on the phone with two different techs at OPUS, the people that make the Mongoose cable, and they cannot get the Mongoose to work through either of my two different USB-C/A converters. The acid test is to connect the Mongoose cable to a vehicle with the key on and to the computer. Then open up Device Manager (right-click the Windows logo) and scroll all the way to the bottom of the list. There at the very bottom you should find Vehicle Passthrough Interface. On the "old" Dell laptop running Windows 11 I see that, but on this Surface Pro 9 Win 11 using either the Acer USB Hub or the Anker USB Adapters I don't. So something in the conversion from USB-A to USB-C is NOT working. Given that I'm going to have to keep an old laptop around in order to program ECU's via Binary Editor and the Mongoose cable - unless someone has a better idea. I have never tried my newer MacBook Pro as it has the Apple CPU and will not run Windows. I have an older MacBook Pro with the Intel CPU and set it up as a dual boot and that's the one I use on Darth and with a program called Forscan to run diagnostics on the Flexes. From what I remember Binary Editor only works in a Windows environment.

I lived in Hampton, apartment on Elizabeth Rd. Southampton area. After I met my first wife, I moved in with she and her kids on Pine Grove Ave. and cancelled the apartment lease. After we were married, a neighbor of ours in the Hollywood Shopping Center (sounds ritzy, but wasn't) Preston Carburetion was at 9823 Jefferson Ave. and he was Farah Realty and said he had a great deal on a house on Old Chestnut Ave. 4 fifths of liquor later we had a nice loan and a real good price. I lived at 5913 Old Chestnut Ave. Newport News VA from Feb 1974 until Dec. 2011 when I officially moved to Exmore VA on the Eastern Shore. First house after moving out of my parents was on Pine Grove Ave. before we were married, Karen looked at me and asked why don't you just move here and stop renting that apartment? So I did. After she passed away the end of 2005, I piddled around, finally joined Singles-net and in a month or so had two fairly local women contact me. Not being one to play the field, I started seeing the first one and when the second one contacted me I told her I was seeing someone, but would definitely keep her in mind if it didn't work out. Mary is from one of the original Eastern Shore families and had two previous marriages, one beat her and her mother and sister drove to Texas to bring her home, the second turned out to be a bigamist, so she dumped him fast. She was single for about 20 years when I met her. Preston Carburetion was originally at 5832D Jefferson Ave. just below Briarfield Rd.

I can't restore the plating, but I used to own a shop that was a Holley authorized warranty location, Preston Carburetion, located in Newport News VA. I am now on Virginia's Eastern Shore and have plenty of time if you want to send it to me. Darth had a 4180C until he was converted to MAF/SEFI in 2012 (first was the SD/BF system in late 2011).

Where in our great state are you moving to? My dad has passed on, he was 1 day past his 89th birthday, mind was still sharp as a tack. He had decided on his own to stop driving a couple of years before. Stepmother had Alzheimer's and he put her in a day care facility until the stress put him in the hospital with a bleeding ulcer. That was when he with some prodding by my brother and I decided to sell the 2500 sq ft ranch house on an arm of Lake Smith in Virginia Beach. He had a house cleaning party so the four of us (his kids) and the 4 of Mary's (stepmother) girls could get what they had either been promised or wanted. He had given my his 1960 vintage Craftsman radial arm saw, joiner and huge shop vac, we parceled out his tools among the men and after we emptied the house, he put it up for sale and set up an investment account to be split 4 ways upon his death. Mary had already given her girls their inheritance, of which we received nothing, so dad gave each 1 cent. I miss him, and when I am doing something he taught me about I think about him watching me from above. Enjoy your dad while you still can.

Gary, I use a dual boot older MacBook Pro. I use one of the two USB ports for the Mongoose and the other with a port expander for the dongle, Mouse and Wideband O2 sensor input if needed. The Mongoose needs a dedicated port so there is no other traffic on it (Per Adam Marrer). I learned the hard way on Darth, got a totally corrupt load, but was able to rewrite it. Bill

Middle terminal on the regulator plug is not used on a 2G, it is used on a 3G. The Yellow (37), BK/O (38) will be either 10 or 12 ga as they handle the alternator output and power feed to inside the cab (basically everything). If you want to ensure that you don't get a runaway alternator, move the Y/W (36) wire to where the BK/O splices to the Y. This is how the 3G sense circuit is, picks up the output at the alternator.

That is the classic 2G failure, and it wasn't just trucks, Taurus, Tempo, Crown Vics virtually any Ford with a 2G alternator was prone to spontaneously ignite. (Ford was just giving us a preview of what owning an EV could be like) I haven't had a 2G alternator on anything since about 10 years ago when I converted my truck to EFI and put a 160 amp 3G on.

One of the issues with the 2G alternator is the wiring Ford's "engineers" used (maybe they were borrowed from Ford's British acquisitions?). All the power for the 1986 trucks (probably 1985 also) went through the alternator harness. There was a wire used from the alternator that the shunt ammeter was in parallel with, this, in theory, measured the current going into or out of the battery. If Fuse Link J fails while driving, the truck will continue to run as long as the alternator is capable of handling the demand, but, Circuit 36, Yellow/White is the voltage sense for the internal regulator, so it is essentially reading the battery voltage. If there is a heavy drain on the system, more than the 65 amp 2G can maintain voltage at the set point, it will start raising the voltage, here come the mysterious light failures. I am sure that the theory behind this was to prevent overcharging the battery since the shunt + ammeter leg has enough resistance so the ammeter gets a usable signal. Chrysler used an actual full in-line ammeter, which was more of an alternator output meter. The ammeter on our trucks if I remember correctly (Darth now has a voltmeter) indicates + when power is flowing to the battery and - when it is flowing out of the battery. Those of us who are old enough to have driven vehicles with generators and an ammeter are very familiar with the wild swings.

Jim, I need to document Darth as I have my Lebaron for whoever winds up with either.

Ok, Rene' I believe you said you are using a later computer, so it should not be as sensitive to closed throttle voltage. The newer computers measure the TPS voltage on startup and use that as the closed throttle value. The 4.5V max you are reading gives two questions (1) how far open is the throttle at startup (2) is the throttle opening fully (plates should be parallel to the bore at wide open throttle). The chart I have for TPS values shows 4.538V at full throttle as normal. 5.0V is only reached in "overtravel" or when the full throttle stop is bent, or damaged. Base idle rpm is set with the IAC closed and I can't remember if it defaults to closed when unplugged. I believe it does as it needs to be at minimum air flow in order to set base idle. If your TPS values match the chart (+/- 3%) then everything is correct. If you can't get a good base idle rpm without a lot of throttle opening, see if the new throttle body has bypass holes in the throttle plates, these allow more air flow without having to open the throttle. If there are holes, they will probably be in US measurements, fractional inches. Find the nearest size metric drill you have and go up one increment (.01 or .1 depending on what is available to you) IMPORTANT, remove the throttle body while drilling and blow it off afterwards.

If you need specific colors let me know, I have a lot of salvaged wire from both Ford and Chrysler products.

I cheated on Darth, I had a pair of sway bars from an HD F250 and was not able to get the front attachments off the axles as they are part of the lower spring seats on the 1990. I found a pair of stamped brackets that are listed for the 1986 2WD hd suspension. These are somewhere between 1/4 - 3/8" thick and after installing them under the spring seats it raised the front probably 1/2" which was enough to put the camber back where it needed to be.

Tom, that's the way I feel, one thing I don't like about the newer trucks is the nanny state mandated "options". Darth has no ABS, no air bags, I did add outboard shoulder belts in the rear (holes were already there). I have an aftermarket radio my son gave me that has hands free telephone capability. I have updated the things I feel were improvements, like the later speed control, complete 1996 HVAC system that was designed for R134a, an E4OD transmission replacing the C6 (which would have needed a full replacement due to the rear sprag clutch race loose in the case), updating the engine from a carbureted dual air pump setup to a 1996 CA spec MAF/SEFI system, but still non-catalyst. Interior has a 1995 dash and steering column and will have a nice refrigerator/freezer console from a 2009 Ford Flex. Front seats are Lincoln Continental 12 way memory for the driver, just 12 way for the passenger. I installed a remote keyless entry with number pad. Rear seat is from a 1996, along with the power sliding rear window.

It is interesting that the heavy duty 2WD trucks do not have a crossmember there for the sway bar, it is just attached to two brackets at the frame sides.

Try a 390 intake in a 1977 F150. My son and I had to do the heads on the 1977 F150 I had owned and replaced the 300/C4 with a 390/C6. Those make a 429/460 iron intake feel light.

Try these: Item-----------------Ford Pn-------AUVECO PN-----Motorcraft EEC relay-----3U2Z-14S411-UEA----20172---------WPT-524 FP relay-------3U2Z-14S411-UGA---17622---------WPT-566 DS-II 3 pin---3U2Z-14S411-XXA----20841---------WPT-601 DS-II 4 pin----------------------------20844 EEC-IV test---------------------------17623 AUVECO can be ordered from Clips and Fasteners .com I had spaced them out nicely, but Nabble shoved them back together.

No, because I am pretty sure mine has a U-joint at the box (one of the reasons I wanted that style). I may have to go look, the 1995 Body and Chassis volume shows a rubber coupling at the lower end. If my lowly K-Car has two U-joints in the steering shaft, shouldn't my truck have them too?

1992-1996/7 has U-joints at both ends and a slip section in the center. Due to the change to a stub column (FoMoCo universal column) one U-joint is inside the cab, the other is at the steering box. This design finally eliminated the "skewed" column that was in the 1980-1991 trucks. Here is the inside one on Darth: Note the angle of the intermediate shaft and you can see the end of the outer portion in the firewall penetration.

I have one here I am working on, a nice supercab short bed, same powertrain. He brought it to me (he's been one of my riding mower customers for several years) after someone else had put platinum plugs in it and it ran worse. I put new Motorcraft ASF42C plugs, a set of wires and a cap and rotor. It still wants to suddenly cut off and there is something in the dash that will start softly "beeping" when this happens. Owner came Thursday and I showed him what I had done and discussed the issue with him, he said he would talk to the lady he bought it from and she if she knew or had any documentation. He brought a folder she gave him with all the ROs from 2007 on, nothing on a security system. There are a number of blue wires spliced into the ignition primary side and I am getting a "no tach signal to EEC" code (probably explains the periodic surging and cutting off). He said he was driving on US13 when he smelled something burning and the truck cut off. he got it restarted and the beeping started then, he thought it was the key warning, but it isn't that. I have to remove the cluster face, and maybe the cluster to find what and where the module is and then just do away with it. Fortunately I have plenty of sections of EEC-IV harness sections for the remote mount TFI module.

I probably have plenty of wires with the proper colors and even the correct EEC-IV connectors, problem is they are from 1987-1995 trucks so don't have the grommet nor the dash or dot or hash the 1986 and older used, but do have a weatherproof connector.