85lebaront2

I will bet it was probably "Made in China" but it could be Edelbrock made some changes to them, maybe to Metric threads?

Gary, I have no idea whether they are available anywhere. I am on a MOPAR group on FB, I think it is "Mopar swap and sell" maybe someone on there might be able to help. I assume it is the Edelbrock version with an integral electric choke.

Gary, I found this, at least it will hopefully give you something. http://www.carbkitsource.com/manuals/carbmanuals/CM024.html I just sent you a parts list via email with a copy to Brandon.

I like the nice dual trace scope up on top, Tektronix by any chance?

You can try Green Sales, just go to their website and plug in the number.

I second that on the RTV for the end seals. I used to use many nasty words on the end seals both on my 1964 Falcon 260 and the Cobra 289 in my 1966 GT350. At least on the Windsor engines the bolts go straight down. Worst intake manifold install, FE engines for the win! It damn near takes a crane to lift and set one in place, if it goes the least bit off, not only will it leak oil, it can move the side gaskets enough to drive you bats looking for the air leak inside a valve cover.

The reason for a downstream from the collectors or manifolds crossover (H or X) is the unbalanced pressure pulses, the same thing that gives you the V8 "rumble". On an inline 6, or even a V6, you do not need it nor really want it, same for a flat plane crank V8. On these the pulses are evenly spaced and it is actually detrimental. I wish I could find the formulas Chrysler used in the 60s to calculate the runner length for intake ram tuning. I uses the same concept of pressure waves, but uses the pressure pulse generated when the intake closes to create a new pulse when it reverses at the end of the intake "tube" to arrive at the intake valve just as it opens. Newer engines with variable length intakes use this to help at low end, and again at higher rpms to produce more power efficiently.

Chris, I will try to look at the left over sealer Mary's cousin put on my floor tomorrow. It's not slippery and cleans up pretty well.

I'll bet that is a well built truck, Norfolk Assembly used to have the best quality control of all the Ford plants.

I would suspect a 1989-1991 should fit, they are still mechanical speedometers and the location of the speedometer is pretty close to the 1980-1986 location.

No, but the 1985.5-1986 models with EFI had the prerequisite relays. The FBC ones had the EEC power relay and the EFI and hot fuel package trucks had the fuel pump relay. 1987 - 1991 models have the relays located just behind the air filter, on the air filter mount. The 1985 - 1991 relays have to be weatherproof, although the 1985 - 1986 power relay is inside near the EEC. Relay boxes that will protect the standard Bosch relays that virtually everyone uses now can be found at most junkyards and most newer vehicles have a nice PDC, some more than one. It becomes a matter of "How much do you want to do?".

Sounds like a good plan. At one time, somebody was offering an EEC-IV to EEC-V harness adapter to mate the 60 pin female of the EEC-IV harness to the 104 pin male on the EEC-V box. Since the case size didn't change, as long as a suitable firewall gasket (inside on 1987 - 1991, outside from 1992-1996/7) then an EEC-V can be put in place of an EEC-IV. For those with the dreaded EEC-III systems, the under seat location won't be an issue, just adapting the harness and discarding the DS-III and affiliated parts. I am not sure if an EEC-V box could even be set up to work one of those due to the feedback carburetor.

Gary, I can add the EEC-V stuff on the smaller engines (4.9, 5.0, 5.8) the issue becomes the 4.9 and 5.0 ceased truck use the end of MY 1996 except for the Explorer and it's clones carried a DIS version of the 5.0L engine (which has some of the best heads for the EFI engines) for a few years after that. As a result there were not a lot of EEC-V trucks built. The advantage to the EEC-V system is the ability to reflash the EEC for updates rather then having to issue a new EEC when changes were needed. Any doubts, look at the sheer number of different ones for the 1985.5-1986 5.0L engines. This can be used to advantage, as long as the EEC-V box has the correct hardware code, it can be reflashed (reprogrammed) as needed for a different engine size, firing order etc. the process is pretty quick and corresponds to rejetting a carburetor and recurving the distributor.

In doing some further digging, speed sensor apparently wasn't critical until the E4OD, then AODE, and finally 4R70W transmissions came out. I also found that the CEL or MIL wasn't on even the first few years of the EEC-IV after the 1986 models. The other item, the E4OD additions, all except the coast clutch apply to the 4R70W and it uses an output shaft speed sensor in addition to the others. I believe from what I remember finding is that 1993 up EECs support live data through an appropriate scan tool.

I ran dual Corvair Turbo mufflers (back when you got the real ones, not Chinese knock-offs) on my 1977 with the Camper Special 390. I designed a system and had my muffler shop build it for me. Left side crossed under the tail housing on the C6, then followed the right side down inside the frame. H pipe was just where they started to parallel each other, mufflers were turned long side of the oval vertical. Left muffler was in front of the right so the pipes could be closer together. Dual pipes all the way over the axle and came out on a 45° under the back of the bed, just forward of the step bumper. Nice deep mellow sound until you stood on it, then as it wound up it "crack". Most fun I had with it, some kid in a Datsun pickup. Kid thought it must have been bad the way he kept blipping the throttle. I let him get a little start and laid into the 390, tailpipes were about head level with the camper out of it.

I just sent Gary a spreadsheet with much the same information, but only went to 1987 primarily to show the differences between the 1985-86 and later versions. Other than the EGR and speed sensor additions there was a change on pin #5 from 12V in when the key is on to a ground connection tied to the speed sensor.

There are differences, first because the 1985.5-1986 EGR system is different from later ones, second, no speed input on the early ones, third, no brake switch input, VPWR is on pin #5 and pin #57, later only on pin #57.

The EVTM shows it underhood near the servo, it is inside the cab near the floor where the cable comes in.

On Darth it was right above where the speedometer cable came through the floor. There was an upper and lower cable and it connected them.

Several, of which at least 3 are complete with 460 throttle cables.

To add a factory cruise, you need the short jumper harness between the dash and steering column harness with the speed control "amplifier" and horn relay. The speed control vacuum dump valve for the brake pedal and on an MT truck the clutch switch and vacuum dump valve. The speed control vacuum and electric harness go through the firewall to the right of the brake booster up high, and in far enough to clear the clutch hydraulic cylinder on MT models. It is a dedicated harness and plugs into the fuse box accessory feed location provided for it. Steering wheel, any with the switches that fits a truck column through 1991 will work. Side note, the all electronic one uses the exact same control switches and a hydraulic "dump switch" on the MC.

Steve, any ECM 1987-1993 I believe for a 5.0L engine and AOD transmission will work fine on yours. Changes to use a later ECM. EGR changed from two solenoid valves (one vacuum and one vent) to a single duty cycle solenoid valve. MAP sensor, PN changed in 1987, I don't know exactly what changed and have used a later one on a 1986 truck. Speed sensor, 1987 up have a speed sensor input, readily available item, becomes the speedometer gear holder and uses two wires to the ECM. Air filter, 1987-1997 the filter is moved to a location on the left fender behind the radiator/washer tank, air is still taken from the rectangular hole on the left side of the radiator. Improvements: TPS is no longer extremely voltage sensitive requiring a setting to 1.0 volt at closed throttle +/- a very small tolerance, 1987 up, the closed throttle voltage is measured by the ECM and used as base value, minimum idle speed is set with the IAC disconnected to a specified RPM. Newer MAP sensor was used from 1987-1997 on non-OBD-II trucks, is easier to find. Newer EGR control solenoid is also used on many other applications and easy to locate. Speed input allows ECM to tailor parameters better, EGR for one. After a point, and I will have to find it, ECM can deliver live data to a good scan tool so actual functions, advance, idle air flow, engine temperature, air charge temperature, EGR %, throttle % can be viewed for diagnostic purposes. Wiring, speed sensor wiring needs to be added, EGR reconfigured. Gary has a spreadsheet I sent him with the truck ECM pinouts. Starting in 1987 the engine harness was completely changed, it connects to the front harness with 4 round, weatherproof 8 pin plugs. The ECM connection is part of the front harness, no longer a "piggy back" system as the ECM was moved to the left air box in a recess. ECM power relay and fuel pump relay were also moved from inside the cab to a bracket on the rear of the new air filter location. Some of these you may not want to fool with, the others, your call, it's your truck!

Not too shabby, I was amazed when I had my 390, it would pull 16-17 highway with a 3.25 gear, LT 235/75R-15 tires and a C6 and it would scat when you stood on it. Didn't do too bad towing either.

Maybe, I am going to look at the coin-op car wash and see what they have for a vacuum. If not, I will see what's involved at least I have the 30 lbs of manuals for it.

Well, not so much to my truck, but my wife's 2011 Flex. Wednesday when we went to Pocomoke City and Salisbury. she put her bag on the passenger side floor, when she picked it up while I was leaving the queen for her "spa treatment" she picked it and noticed it was wet on the bottom, the entire mat and carpet were soaked, fortunately not antifreeze. That left two possibilities a clogged A/C drain or a clogged cowl drain. Turns out the latter is a known issue just like our trucks. Crud from leaves, etc piles up on the drain valve and completely blocks it, water then builds up during torrential rains or melting snow and overflows into the HVAC inlet. I took the wipers and plastic covers off, cleaned everything and removed the rubber drain valve so it can't ever plug up again. Now all I have to do is get the rest of the water out of the carpet (I really don't want to remove it).