85lebaront2

Not to "my" truck, but the wife's Flex is technically her truck. A week ago going up US 13 a rock either fell off a dump truck or was picked up by his right rear tires and put a nice star shaped crack in the lower right corner of the windshield. Safelite (USAA's partner) came today and replaced it. Glad I carry only $100 deductible on comprehensive other than collision.

Well, if you're not going to use it... I personally like the idea of a spare, particularly in Big Blue's case where you will be overlanding. In fact, if you use the stock 1985.5/86 location, you might be able to put a spare pre-flashed one right next to the active one so you would only need to pull the PCM fuse and swap over the 104 pin plug.

That was my question after looking at the picture.

Briggs is 16 HP, belt comes off the horizontal shaft, engine is mounted with the crank longitudinal and the traction drive pulley is on the back, which is the flywheel end. Transaxle input pulley is on the right side and the shaft for it is transverse. Belt comes off the engine goes trough a pair of pulleys on the right side of the frame at an angle. Outboard pulley is a V groove, the inboard is flat. Engine turns clockwise viewed from the back, drive side of the belt (1/2 x 67) rides on the flat idler, then goes somewhat upward to the top side of the variator (two groove V pulley with the center sliding) the bottom side of the variator, the belt goes straight forward to the outboard (V) idler and up the the drive pulley. The rear belt from the variator to the transaxle has a single V idler and is a 5/8 X 40 belt. Clutch works by moving the variator on it's lever forward far enough that the primary belt is no longer in contact with the drive pulley on the engine. Here's a link to a YouTube video on it:

Jim, with the newer chrome rings, the bores need to be nearly smooth. You will enjoy these, first, a Craftsman 10 HP cast iron engine (built by Tecumseh when they made very good engines) It is on a 1972 Sears Custom 10XL I purchased from a fellow in Salisbury MD. He was going to use it as a pulling tractor as it has the almost indestructible AYP 3 speed with hi-lo transaxle. Engine would blow oil out at higher rpm. I bought a set of rings for it along with the gaskets and seals, roughed the virtually straight bore (no ridge) with some 120 emery paper, reassembled it, getting the correct end clearance on the roller bearing crank. Once I ran it in, no more oil blowing out and it runs great. The second one is a Briggs & Stratton opposed flat head twin, had enough blow by it wouldn't idle with the breather hoses connected to the air cleaner. It's on another Sears product, a 1983 GTV16, which is an actual garden tractor. I was given it by a co-worker who had originally bought it to use at his retirement home in Charlotte County VA. When he couldn't find a mower deck for it. It was given to myself and another Ford truck owner, who when he was diagnosed with colon cancer at 40 told me to just take it and do what ever I wanted. Same thing, except that one really needed boring, new rings and gasket set, lapped the valves, sanded the bores enough the seat the rings, put it together, actually found a new drive pulley adapter from Sears parts! Engine is a horizontal shaft that sits backwards in the tractor and has a drive belt system that would make a Corvair look simple. Former manager gave me a sleeve hitch for it after he found out the difference in an ST vs GT frame (mine is 4" wider). Runs great, the varidrive takes a bit to figure out, but once set up with the correct belts, is neat. I found a 44" deck for it and one neighbor and I use it for rough clearing.

Now you are going way back, but even then some of the old in-line sixes lasted, particularly Nash, and Chrysler stuff. Their old flatheads would run forever. The early OHV engines were plagued with valve problems which is why Willys and Rolls-Royce both built F-heads, overhead intake, side exhaust.

Hey, I'm the one who is ADHD. I just get irritated with people who start a whole new train of thought when a continuous (not necessarily a Gary Lewis micro-analysis in 450 pages) thread elaborating on the original problem so someone who hasn't read the other 16 threads can go back and see what was done previously.

Since Ron likes to play "let's start a new thread, because I didn't get the answer I wanted" then I think I will just ignore his posts from here on.

Oink, oink

If they pay me for helping re-engineer it it would be nice. As far as being a pioneer, I am pretty used to it.

Supposedly it is for an E350 dually.

Got the first of the two replacement rotors in (the one that was re-routed to me), funny thing, this time it fit and everything lined up. Nice thing, runout at initial assembly was .002".

Yes, but the frame still rusts.

Do you still have the catalytic converter installed? The stink makes me suspect you do. If you can get it loose, take the converter off and see how it runs without it. My so had a 1986 F150 302 EFI and his converter was completely stopped up, badly enough it would not stay in OD on the highway and had no power. Since he lives in WV and no emission inspections, a piece of 1/2" water pipe "fell" through it. Night and day difference!

They do fit perfectly. The ones in Darth came from the 1996 F350, I had the old ones off to remove the front cab bolts to play musical transmission mount bolts. The 4 upper ones will not come out with the cab in place, but the crew cab being 35" longer, there is enough slack with the front ones out to raise the cab the roughly 3/4" needed to remove the bolts and relocate them.

Those of us who used to beat them regularly in autocross events (Shelby owners) referred to them that way. William Jeans, at a Shelby owners convention made the statement that it was only an unfortunate coincidence that Corvettes and portable outhouses were made from the same material.

Gary, Darth had a insulating pad under the seats, but only on the right side and I'm sure that was more for heat as it was placed over the exhaust area. The floor still got quite hot in the summer to the point the front seat passenger would almost get a hot foot from it. When I redid the interior after having the rusted areas in the front footwells fiberglassed, I used some thermal barrier a co-worker (fellow lab rat) gave me, it was left over from his house he was building for his retirement home in Charlotte County VA. This made a world of difference in both heat and noise levels. Newer doors and the Areonose door panels with their insulating/sound deadening pads helped even more. Ford seems to have used very little noise deadening in the Bullnoses probably two fold, CAF standards, and at the time of introduction, they were still utility/work vehicles, Just look at the difference in Blue Jeans and Dad's or Big Blue.

Ok, further thoughts, partially for Ray Cecil. Ray, being a brand C type you are probably aware that the original potra-potty's (Corvettes) were 235 ci 6 cyl engines, called "Blue Flame" and were a slightly higher compression hotter cam version of the standard Chevrolet 235 engine. These had 3 one barrel carburetors, but due to the height of the engine and the low hoodline of the Corvette, they used a Marine carburetor, modified to a hand choke. The choice was the Carter YH, which is essentially a Carter YF on it's side. These were probably the size of the Rochester B one barrel, just three of them. The intake did have equalizer passages between the three intake ports (235 had a design with square and rectangular exhaust ports and round intake ports, all were paired except the end exhaust ports which were single. On the Blue Flame, there were split exhaust manifolds and dual exhausts. On a truck where there is plenty of clearance over the engine, I would expect that 3 singles could be fitted with out a problem and if three EGR spacers were used a maybe 1/2" ID balance tube between them would work unless you wanted them progressive in which case you would be better off simply adding the flanges like the performance kits for the small Ford sixes with the integral manifold used. On the Clifford intake, two 32/36 DGEV carbs would be my choice for new, the Holley Webers from Pintos, Vegas or Mopars would be a good alternate.

Gary, I personally do not have any problem with the site as it is. That being said, one of the other forums I am on, a Chrysler one called Allpar, has an arrangement somewhat like you describe. When I first open the site I have several options, across the top in a black band are: Home, Tech/Help, Chrysler/News, Social. All of these have a down arrow on the right end. Each of the tabs brings up a sub menu, I usually go to Forums under Social, but that area can also be reached from the Home tab. The home page has a bunch of small pictures etc. this might be a thought on organization, maybe when you get a chance you could look at it. https://www.allpar.com/index.php is the landing page. Just keep up the good work!

Matthew, if the air is going through the engine, not out the ports, it's your rings that are weak.

Those are screw in core plugs, they are Allen style plugs that take a big Allen wrench to turn. The oil on those engines drains back down the push rod slots.

They may be progressive, but the external gear system would concern me getting crud in the teeth and sticking. The Pinto and Vega ones use a link to open the secondary throttle shaft. The Chrysler ones use a vacuum diaphragm to open the secondary. These can be synchronized with a small vacuum hose linking the vacuum diaphragm housings (like Ford did on the 427 setups).

I will further endorse using a double roller chain setup, and I believe if you look at later OEM sets you will find Ford went to them on everything except the 4.9L (300) which has gear drive.

You do not seem to have seen some of the Mustang systems, they had a short piece of flexible cable from a lever on the throttle shaft on the firewall to the downshift lever on the side of the C4 transmission. The C6 uses the same style. Since you choose to run a Generous Motors carburetor, you have, as I see it two options, fabricate a floating lever that will actuate the existing downshift rod, or, since many Quadrajets have a "tail" on the bottom of the throttle lever, it can be used to pull a rod, cable or otherwise forward and the short outer lever from a Mustang application that used the pull cable can be actuated by it. The third option would be to use a solenoid from a power deck lid release to operate the downshift lever and a switch the throttle linkage contacts at WOT to activate it. GM did this on the Turbo-Hydramatics rather than use a mechanical system. Be glad you aren't dealing with an AOD, their throttle system is very sensitive to adjustments.

12, yes good count, but I know some V8 engines with 17 pushrods.