85lebaront2

For those of you who have been following the rear disc brake conversion thread, I had already bought a number of years ago two extremely important tools for the 10.25" Sterling axle, one was the special hub nut wrench, I bought from a Snap-On truck, the other I bought form my favorite eBay seller, TKIT 1985-FH-1, the Sterling specific tools. Everything was there except the shim driver and the hub nut wrench. Since I had the wrench I wasn't super concerned about it missing and felt I could work around the shim driver as the aftermarket kits come with a selection of various thickness thinner shims. Recently I found I needed the seal installer for the updated seals and was able to buy that and the preceding T80T kit that is actually listed a front axle tool kit and a T75T-1225-A outer hub bearing cup installer. The rear hub seals went through a series of changes (Gary has the TSBs on the site) so there are 3 different seal installers, the first one is part of the TKIT 1985-FH-1 kit, and is T85T-1175-AH, the second tool is for the first seal update, seal PN F0TZ-1177-A and requires tool T91T-1175-A, the second update added a slinger and a slightly reduced length cone and roller on the inner bearing .032" shorter, PN F4TZ-1244-A, slinger F4TZ-1250-A and a new seal F4TZ-1177-B, which requires a still different driver, T93T-1175-A which is relieved for the protruding portion of the seal casing. As a result I have a nice set of all the tools needed to rebuild a Sterling 10.25" axle and hubs.

One thing I do on transmission installations (I do have an actual Walker transmission jack) whatever thread the block, or in the case of some vehicles (Chrysler products) the transmission or transaxle case has, I find some extra long bolts, can be used or just cheap hardware store stuff. I insert these, with the heads removed and a slot cut for a screwdriver along with a slight taper ground on them, into the appropriate side. This allows the two pieces to stay fairly well aligned, you just have to watch that two faces stay parallel while you slide them together. This is what Ford tool xxxxx is just a pair of guide pins to facilitate alignment.

While on the hood latch, I have a nice, not really workaround, but trick from my NNS days, where I had a little desk sign that said "Work smarter, not harder". Pulling the heads on a 460, and I am sure the Diesels are right up there too, can be a real back breaker of a job. First the head bolts on a 460 are 9/16-12 and are torqued to 130 - 140 ft-lbs when assembled, after 20 + years of running they are stuck pretty well, the outer row, 4 of the 5 pass right next to an exhaust port and the oil from assembling the engine gets thoroughly coked from the exhaust heat. I have a very long Advance Auto breaker bar, and an old piece of exhaust pipe to break them loose. That is only half of the battle, unless you are changing heads, you probably do not want to mess with the exhaust manifold bolts as they will probably break off flush with the head. The next problem comes in getting them off the block and out of the engine compartment. I don't know the exact weight, but it is enough to do serious damage to fingers, hands, toes etc. My workaround was to place a piece of 2X6 diagonally between the radiator support and the fender on the side I was removing. After breaking the gasket loose , the head can be lifted onto the board, then you climb down, carefully avoiding the hood latch, and pick the head off the board, I then stood it on end on a Harbor Freight hand truck for transport. On reinstalling, or my case installing different heads, the process was reversed, roll the head over, lift it onto the board now covered with clean shop rags, climb back up and when everything has been wiped off and the new gasket placed, pick up the head and set it carefully in place and torque it properly.

Ooof! I once had an empty compound bucket kick out and the hood latch caught me right in the solarplexus. I was gaffed, and couldn't get enough wind to push myself up and off. **Broke my sternum loose from some cartilage, but no ribs (knock wood) Yes, the hood latch on these can be lethal.

On the 1955 Y-block, yes, it works quite well. Just be sure that (a) no one you like is downwind and (b) pour it slowly down each side of the carburetor with the engine revved up a bit. As the water enters the cylinders, it will probably start missing, slow the pour rate (I used to use Pepsi bottles) I also ran the engine at what would be a good cruise rpm, and as it started to slow down open the throttle more. The 1981, if you are going to do it, I would disconnect the catalytic converter while doing it, the carbon sometimes comes out in chunks.

Those Ls were only made '93-95, and those PSOMs are extremely sought-after (rare/expensive). But you might check the classifieds on http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/forumdisplay.php/398-Gen-1-Lightnings . You'd be better-off IMO with a phone cradle since, even if you get your hands on that PSOM, it's not extremely accurate, and it won't be easy to install even if you have the rear axle that will generate the signal it needs to work. Read this caption & look at the NEXT pic: https://supermotors.net/getfile/76023/thumbnail/cluster-front.jpg But a phone GPS will always be accurate, and you need a phone charger anyway. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1146165/thumbnail/iottieqidash.jpg Steve, (a) I have the PSOM speedometer already, (b) I am aware of the inherent inaccuracies © I actually have a couple of Garmin Nuvis, and would much rather use one of them then try to read a phone screen for speed. The Garmin weighted mount sits nicely in the center "well" on my 1996 dash.

You are welcome!

The general test for a good high output system, it should easily jump a 1/4" gap with a nice hot spark. Another point to keep in mind, the coil wire, it carries X times the load the individual plug wires do, where X = number of cylinders. It can fail internally, and the only indication is usually the spark jumping at the coil. I used to sell a unit at my shop, the Delta Mark 10 CDI system, it was a capacitive discharge system that went on a breaker point system. These used a .040 plug gap and were very reliable. Biggest issue you had was the points building up a film of oil on them and not triggering the unit. There were updates, first a Mark 10B with a variable dwell feature to solve misfire issues on Chrysler engines, then a Mark 10C with some other improvements. The B and C models had a push button on/off switch on the main board so it could be run as a conventional points system. They had a breakerless conversion kit, but it only worked on Delco 8 cyl or V6 distributors as it needed the gap between the advance cam and pickup to be a constant distance.

Ron, the reason I asked that, I have done it myself years ago on my Shelby.

I'll bet the Mopar one does, they were still oil filled into the mid to late 70s. The important thing on a coil, it HAS to match the type of ignition system, ie a breaker point coil will not work properly on electronic ignition and the higher output ignition coils may destroy the electronics if the system wasn't made for them.

I will throw another one, is the disc installed the right way?

That's great! Tell him keep at it. I have a ton of Scout stuff, patches etc. If you want sometime, give me an email address and I'll send you pictures of my patch jacket, he will probably enjoy it too.

Now the question, which 396? 325/360 or 375/425? The dual ratings were Chevy's way around the edicts from GM's management on the intermediate bodies. Pontiac already had the GTO with the 389 ci engine, Olds started the 442 as 4 barrels, 4 speed and dual exhaust, in 65 it became 400 ci, 4 speed and dual exhaust, Buick had the 400 (actually 401) nailhead in the Skylark Gran Sport. GM's management said no more than 400 ci, and limited them to the 2 speed autos, either Powerglides or TH300s. Buick and Olds got the switch pitch stators, Pontiac and obviously Chevy did not. If it is the lower rated engine it will have oval intake ports and a Quadrajet, if it is the higher rated engine it will have rectangular intake ports and OEM was a Holley R-3310, 780 cfm carb.

Yes it is only attached at the corners and center of the cab, the area between the mounts is open on top.

Maybe, I was hoping to have it at least in a decent enough condition for the car show 3 miles from us next month, but I don't think that's going to happen.

A bunch, some of what needs to be done had to wait for a windshield as the A pillar and windshield header trim wrap over the windshield. Still have to weld up a few small holes in the main floor then get the carpet ordered, speakers, door panels, then a bunch more little things, then the wrestling match with the top and frame.

I will be very surprised if that Malibu weighs 4000#, I almost bought a 64 Chevelle, after the test drive in that and a 62 Valiant I went back and told dad I would take over the payments on the Falcon. The Chevelle was like riding in a tin can.

Actually, by a certified scale (one they weigh grain trucks on here in Exmore) 6400 lbs empty.

I would like to find a speedometer from a Lightning (needs to fit 1992-96/7 full gauge cluster). Darth really needs one that will keep up with what he's capable of (son had him pegged on I-264 in VB a number of years ago.

Figured I better update this, I did find a windshield, Vintage Auto Glass made one for me, probably by cutting a sedan/coupe one down. I believe the difference is the height due to the top header.

Not loud, drag, with a 460? Damn thing runs out of speedometer before it runs out of power.

Believe it or not, do not be surprised if the holes for the inner end are already there. If you can find a set from an XLT Lariat they are dual visors, one swings to the side, the other just folds down in front of the windshield.

Not a good idea, without the input shaft to hold the disc in position it will drop down enough that the transmission will not go back in (don't ask how I know) also, the release bearing has nothing to guide it if is on a fork, if it is the concentric hydraulic one, it won't do anything except possibly explode the cylinder.

Nor on an EFI conversion, VA has an update backdate law on engine changes, if you go with a newer engine, it only has to meet the year of the vehicle.

Gary, the 351C, M & 400 had dry intake manifolds, the ends of the heads where the water passages would be on a Windsor, FE or 385 series were available, so Ford in their somewhat normal let's save a few bucks, used these areas for the air injection. Saved a lot of external plumbing. Had a good friend who built a 1967 Shelby GT350 for SCCA racing (car is still around, a fellow named Greg Reynolds has it now) he wanted to use a Boss 302, cheapest way to build one due to the rarity is to use 351C 4V heads on a 302 short block. Air ports on the heads line up with the water passages in the Boss 302 intake. He had drilled the heads for the water passage into the intake, one on each head, so they couldn't be switched around. I got a frantic call on a Thursday afternoon before the first race, water was pouring out of the exhaust header on one bank. After some examination, plugs looked great, I said let's not run it, fill it up and see what happens, sure enough water starts running out of the header. Pulled those plugs to be safe and took off the intake, when I showed him where the gasket sat on the heads, it was one of those duh! moments. A couple of pipe plugs and open the other end of each head for water so they were interchangeable and he was off to Summit Point to race.