85lebaront2

A lot of the service 2G units (the ones Matt carried) came with a permanently installed connector and a nice pair of splices. Part of the 2G issues are not completely the alternator's fault, the voltage sense is moved beyond the alternator's fusible links, so if the links blow the alternator goes full field and burns itself up.

We went through a similar deal on a 1986 F350 wrecker. It had a 10 1/2" I believe clutch and since we put and older 460 in it, in addition have to get it balanced the owner elected to order a flywheel for a 429 CJ, which took a nice 11 1/4" I think clutch, bolts were still wrong so we took it to a machine shop and said "fix it", worked great until the clutch fork pivot snapped off and had to be replaced. I'm looking at Rock Auto (I know you hate them) and they show LUK (German BTW) PN 07092 for the clutch kit for a 1995 460 in an F350 and it shows in the buyers guide as 1987-1997. The Perfection MU20011A shows only fitting 1993-1997. The Valeo 53112001 also only shows 1993-1997.

I would be a little concerned about using tubing only rated to 200° F underhood on a 460. I am pretty damn sure that summer, A/C on in traffic Darth's underhood temp gets well over the, overheat mode on the EEC-V advances the timing and raises the idle, then if that doesn't bring it down in tolerance, kills the A/C compressor. So far I have only had it happen one time stuck in heavy creeping traffic in Portsmouth VA approaching the Downtown Tunnel. Never got to the A/C shut-off, but I was putting it in N everytime the light cycle caught me. I think that that is set around 205° F but it may be even hotter. That is based on the ECT measurement and possibly may use the ACT to determine the underhood temp.

How about this one, I don't know if the consecutive unit numbers (last 5 of the VIN were individual plants or for all) This Darth's.

Jim, I never used a hammer on a carburetor base. Holleys I could simply order a new throttle body. The straighten with a hammer was primarily the accelerator pump cover on Holleys, but airhorns/top covers on Stromberg WWC and Carter BBD 1 1/2" carbs on Chrysler products. Depending on the carburetor, Holley, buy a new throttle body, even if you have to buy it bare and transfer the shafts. Carter/Edelbrock, remove the throttle shafts after normal disassembly and use a good hard, flat surface to sand it flat on. You may want to file the worst mounting ears first. Same for an Autolite, Summit or any other carburetor where the main body is also the throttle body. The wide spaced (called a spread flange) bolt pattern Ford and Holley use is very prone to warping the aluminum castings if a soft gasket or gasket stack is used. The Ford thick heat insulating gaskets and the phenolic spacers if they are not sufficiently rigid (non-compressible) at the hold down areas will warp the throttle body/base plate/main body if over tightened. I have a nice chunk of granite left over from a backsplash a riding mower customer brought me, it was excess from a kitchen remodel.

Well, someone got two left sides then, so it should get interesting.

Jim, they do pivot, the right side belt originally drove a smoke grinder and the alternator and is adjusted at the alternator (note the slot in the upper bracket in the pictures). I drilled and tapped mine 3/8-16 and use one of Ford's nice flange head bolts with the serrated flange face.

Y'all EFI guys are using the later pump, with the different inlet??? I have an early pump on Darth, but the new engine has the later pump. on neither one is there any interference with the alternator tensioning bracket. I am using AutoZone new Duralast pumps.

It is probably more of an anti-vibration stabilizer.

No you I didn't, I was going to offer the good one from the new engine in return for a PC'd set, even the repaired one if you needed it. BTW, what water pump are you using? I have never had a fit problem on mine.

I have documented it, just not here. I think it was covered pretty well on FTE.

Where it gets interesting is there were essentially two F250s, a light duty (under 8500 GVWR) and a heavy duty (over 8500 GVWR) the brakes and emission requirements change at 8500 GVWR as these are Federal Motor Vehicle Standards for the requirements. The Peoples Republik of Kalifornia has different emission standards which is why some engine options were either different or not available there.

That higher current relay is what Ford uses for the engine cooling fan high speed on the Crown Vics, they use a standard Bosch style on the PGMR starters.

I don't blame him, function is the same and they are (a) cheaper and (b) plentiful. If you look at my PDC, it has a row of Bosch relays and the side box has 4 more 3 of which are my trailer system relays.

Very true Jim, and my 3G is an uprated 160 amp unit, and I believe if he uses the PTO function he will be spinning it fast enough to handle the running load, if he uses a nice heavy jumper cable setup like wreckers have for jumping cars, it would more than handle what is needed (Damn engineers, overthinking everything). My lab manager was like that, his initials are CES, a couple of us referred to him as "Complicate Everything Snyder", it was bad enough that more than once he would blow through drop useless suggestions and blow out. We would go do what we planned, he would come back later and believe we did what he suggested even though it wasn't. I had a 90 amp side terminal alternator on my 1977 F150 with the 390. A good friend had come by with his 454 Chevy crew cab DRW truck (towed his rail with it), it wouldn't start when he got ready to leave, I hooked my big (Diesel) jumper cables to his from mine, he said give it a couple of mins to charge, I could see and hear the load on the alternator. He said I'll try it, between the nice hefty battery in mine and the alternator it spun like a damn small block, he was incredulous over the speed it cranked at.

Jim, one of the reasons I save old wiring harness parts is to have the actual colors (base + stripe or dashes) to add or extend wires.

The higher rocker ratio is an "old school" trick, putting Ford Windsor ball pivot 1.6 ratio rockers in place of the brand C 1.5 ones was a cheap upgrade, and since the Ford ones are cast steel rather than stamped steel they were more durable (saw a few Chevies back in the day with a push rod protruding from a valve cover). The other item, a higher lift generally helps low end torque, one of the classics was the old "nail valve" Buicks which due to the head design had small valves, so Buick used a high lift cam. Those old engines had some torque, which they needed with the Dynaflush transmissions.

Probably not, the Diesel tack is triggered from the teeth on the injection pump drive gear, 105 teeth so it is an odd number of pulses, gas engine uses the coil - terminal for it's source.

Jim, the poly groove (not serpentine) system on the 1988-97 460 in it's factory configuration includes a smoke grinder about where the V-belt engines mount the alternator.

At worst case, I have my original red belts and can measure them for total length pulled out.

Other option, alternator is a 3 phase unit with diodes to rectify 3 phase A/C into a wavy DC output. They sell phase inverters to convert 3 phase to single phase, proper sizing of a pulley with the PTO feature on the EEC-V box so that it will produce 60 Hz power. Extra alternator can (a) be electrically disabled by not powering the rotor (you won't have a voltage regulator) and (b) mounted where the smoke grinder went. In that location it would share the alternator belt. Gary, you're an engineer, go for it!

I have driven both in heavy traffic, coming back from an event in Virginia Beach on I-64 through the Hampton Roads Bridge Tunnel (referred to by locals as just HRBT) and driving a distance of maybe 6 miles in 45 min or more in my GT350, my left leg would be shaking by the time we got through the HRBT an into Hampton. When my best friend bought his 1995 F350 CCB DRW truck he had me drive his 2000 Corvette back to York County and then he brought me back to Exmore. I had some choice words as the HRBT was showing a near 10 mile backup and we went around on I-64 to I-664 to use the Monitor-Merrimac Memorial Bridge Tunnel (It crosses just about where they engaged). The High Rise bridge on I-64 has 3 lanes coming into it, but is only 2 lanes from the bridge entry to the end of I-64, we crept along for about 4 miles with me mumbling about damn Chevy and their 6 speed manual with the blocker for 3-4, sometimes I could use 3rd, other times, I was forced to skip to 5th. Good thing about it, nearly 31 mpg cruising at 65-70.

Newer ones are much improved, with the exception of the CVTs which in their purest form remind me of a Dynaflow or Turboglide, both of which did not really shift, but did have effectively 2 or 3 different ratios. A whole lot of engine rpm and you picked up speed till the effective gear was direct. One interesting tidbit, the lock up torque converter dates to 1949 when Packard introduced their Ultramatic Drive, Studebaker's Automatic Drive in 1950. Both used a converter clutch for direct. The original Ultramatic Drive started in high then after the speed needed to overcome the throttle pressure would go into lockup. in 1954 it was changed to allow starting in low gear, then to high and finally to direct. The transmission looked like a Powerglide on steroids. The Studebaker transmission started in intermediate, which was a partial reduction, then shifted to direct with the converter clutch. The transmissions were built by Detroit Gear, now part of Borg-Warner and a number of European cars used them, most well know was Jaguar. If you think politics makes strange bedfellows, Ford and GM now have several shared transmissions and FWD transaxles. The 10 speed truck transmission is a 10R80 from Ford and a 10L80 or 90 from GM, the FWD 6 speed in our Flex is a 6F50 from Ford and a 6T50 from GM. The letter differences are Ford calls them F for FWD and R for RWD, GM calls the T for transverse (FWD) and L for longitudinal (RWD). Both these are shared products.

Ok, several items, one have you checked the timing, SPOUT connector unplugged with a warm engine. After doing that and reconnecting the SPOUT see if you are getting spark advance. These trucks do not have an MIL so there is nothing to warn you if it isn't working right. One other very common problem with many in-line 6 engines, balancer coming apart. Some had a reference mark from the hub to the outer ring. To find out for certain, take one of the bad plugs, gut it and thread the shell for a stop screw. Carefully install it in either #1 or #6 plug hole whichever is easier and rotate the engine by hand (socket and breaker bar) until it stops. Mark the location of the pointer on the balancer, then turn back the other way until it stops, mark the balancer again. Halfway between the marks should be TDC on the balancer, if it isn't then it needs replacing.

Shame you aren't coming this way, I just bought a Horrible Freight ball joint press. I thought I was going to be doing them in a 1997 F150, but he had it done with some other work. I do have all but one piece of the D44 axle kit from Ford, the inner seal driver is missing from it, everything else including the ball joint cups are there.