85lebaront2

I didn't address it because I don't know if it is the same. I don't know if there is anyplace you can find drawings and dimensions of the compressor nose and shaft. I also don't know if the FS6 ever had a polygroove pulley. You might look at Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis/Town Car 302 applications, 4 seasons has a lot of the information in their on-line catalog. I just was talking with the local automotive AC shop here in town. He said he would go with the FS10 for durability/reliability reasons.

Vacuum tank on the side of the bricknose casing, beats the "coffee can" as far as rusting out goes. I went all the way to a 1996 system as the evaporator core is taller and thicker and the 1994 up condenser is a multipass unit.

Most of the time, he could be a real pain at times.

The orifice tube (BTW, I believe the post from FTE was made by Archion) the cab size and location of your truck come into play. I think I have the blue orifice tube in Darth and I am on Virginia's Eastern Shore, so humidity can be very close to 100% in the summer. Darth's AC will freeze you, even on a hot day in heavy traffic. I ran him for quite a while on an R134a conversion, then scored a 1996 system and installed it with a new condenser for a 1994-1996/7 truck so I now have a complete R134a system.

The fit through the firewall is the same from 1980-1996/7, the evaporator case changed probably in 1987, maybe a little later, it changed again in 1994 with the change to R134a refrigerant. Compressor changed to FS10 probably over a couple of years, maybe more. 1987 saw some serpentine belt applications, but the 460s didn't change to the polygroove until 1988. You are better off with the FS10 vs FS6, difference is displacement 10 ci vs 6 ci. That being said, lines are completely different, FS6 uses service valves and screw on O-ring lines, FS10 the lines are in a block held to the rear head (think Frigidaire A-6) with O-rings on the compressor. If you use the 1985 system you will still need some custom lines made, if you use the 1990 underhood components, everything will fit, but, the 1990 HVAC harness and vacuum lines pass through the top of the underhood section by way of the recirculation inlet area, 1985 went underneath if I remember correctly. I think the inside plug and vacuum connections are compatible. If you dig out the parts from huck get a picture of the blend door cable hook up for Brandon.

That is the blanking plate for the choke hot air tubes. If you have intake gaskets that close off the heat riser then it ill not need a gasket, if they are not closed then you will need a gasket under it. Looks nice!

You need an FS10. 1988-97 460s use an FS10, It is a tangent mount using 4 M8X1.25 bolts with 10mm heads. You will probably have to get lines custom made, or ideally find a 1994-97 F250/350 with a 460 in a junkyard and get the entire underhood portion.

Glad it worked sir! Your earlier description was classic very retarded timing.

30 amp fused circuit should be more than adequate for an HEI. That should tell you what a power hog they are.

You mentioned interference in fitting the distributor, the results you are getting sounds like you have it severely retarded, From what I remember on the GM built units, static timing is when the points on the trigger align with the ones one the trigger coil. If you can get that condition at 10° BTDC (Ford timing scales run from 10° ATDC to 30° BTDC. Make sure you are on the BTDC side. Wherever you can get the trigger/pickup "points" in alignment at #1 TDC use that to locate the plug wire tower for #1. Then be sure you are in the correct 153624 firing order. Good luck with it!

I would start by static timing it at 10° BTDC, if you can't get that Chevy distributor to that position you are probably never going the get it to run correctly.

I haven't used a shop crane much (I've shown my redneck engine hoist before). But would that mean bringing the crane in from the rear of the truck? Unless I'm not getting what you are asking that seems like it would require a pretty big shop crane! (my redneck engine hoist) http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n54374/DSC_7801.jpg Now that's a true "shade tree mechanic"!

Looks like they had fun, helped and learned a few things. Matt was given free run of a good friends shop when he was maybe 12. Roy asked him to get a pair of duck bill pliers, after perusing the plier drawer for a short time he brought Roy the correct ones. When I asked him later he said it was then only pair that looked like a duck's head.

Well since (a) my shop crane folds and (b) my antique Lakewood engine stand will fit between the legs with the flywheel end away from the crane, I can't see an advantage for me, your mileage may vary though.

Glad it is working out for you. I did a complete rewire on my 1986 F350 when I converted to MAF/SEFI and E4OD, I used a 1996 crew cab as a donor vehicle for the dash and underhood as well as part of the interior. I also got the rear doors from it as I wanted 4dr power windows and locks. I was able to install the later dash and steering column which gives me the later ignition switch and combination switch (wipers, headlight dimmer and turn signals and hazard flasher) It is a tilt column and I have the correct shift indicator for the E4OD and the OD cancel switch. HVAC was updated to 1994-1996/7 R134a system.

Brandon, first, remove the glove box, on the 1987-91, I believe you open it, depress the stops and it swings all the way down and unhooks. With it out of the way you can see the top of the blend door and either a lever where the cable goes or a cam the cable operates that moves the lever on the blend door. If all this is intact then you will need to look inside. I have found that if you vent the radiator, then reinstall the cap, you can remove the heater hoses and prop them in the area behind the right hood spring. After that, remove the cover from the inside assembly and take out the heater core. You can now see the blend door from the back side. When the door closes the opening from the heater core you are in "cold", with it opened away from the heater core you are in "hot".

So you fell for "painless wiring". I helped a fellow with a 1956 Dodge pickup who used one of their kits. He made one mistake in starting to install it, he put the fuse box up on the inside of the firewall. Biggest issue I found is everything is geared towards GM systems so unless you have a Chevy a lot of the stuff won't work. On the cruise control, Ford non-cruise equipt models used a hot wire and a horn wire. When Cruise was installed the hot wire became the wire from the horn relay coil and the horn feed became ground. This is why the cruise control has a short jumper between the column wiring and the dash harness. If you still have your original column and a cruise control steering wheel then you can make it work, Ford used the +12V from the horn relay coil and ground with a series of resistors to tell the cruise amplifier (control module) what to do. The resistor values did not change all the way through 1996/7 so any cruise wheel and column will operate any cruise system vacuum or electric (1993-97). Unfortunately, if you bought the painless GM column I think you are SOL as to making it work.

Brandon, If I remember correctly the inside assembly (heater core and ducts) have to come out to actually repair/replace the blend door. Blend door in cold position: Blend door in warm position: These are from the firewall side of the inside assembly.

Can't do a direct pickup, because it has to be reflashed to my configuration. The common ones I use are for a 351W and E4OD. Cylinder size, injector size and firing order need to be changed, EGR system and purge control need changing, misfire detector and 3rd O2 sensor have to be turned off. I have to purchase a token in order to do the initial crack of it, after that I can change anything I want or need to. One item I wish Ford had done with the 460, a better intake, the Chevy 454 Vortec is a beautiful design except for the injector location.

Blend door is a purely mechanical cable system, open and remove the glove box door and look at the top side of the casing just to the left of the heater core access door. There is a lever or cam and lever that works the blend door. On the vacuum issue, use a small vacuum pump and go to the splice between the controls and HVAC system, apply vacuum to each port until you find the leak. Black is vacuum source and white is fresh air recirculate actuator, both of these run out with the wiring harness through the top of the outer portion of the evaporator casing. If there is a vacuum reservoir on the inner side of the evaporator casing then there will be a tee in the black line. This is from a 1990 EVTM but should be the same:

That's exactly how I repaired my original DRW fenders, glassed all the broken pieces back on. I would definitely be having a serious discussion with Tire Discounters. I had a similar (didn't lose a wheel though) experience on my 1970 1/2 Falcon wagon. The rear wheels were so tight that when I had a flat I almost couldn't get the nuts off. It took my cross wrench as the nice angled jack handle/lug wrench would start to come off the nuts. It took the cross wrench, pulling with both hands and pushing with one foot to break them loose. I took it back to the Goodyear store and told the manager what had happened. He called one of his techs in, told him to put the car inside and take the opposite side wheel off with the cross wrench, he couldn't move it. This was before "torque sticks", the method was to turn down the air valve on the impact wrench.

But if a winch-style carrier would work it would solve the problem of the heavy spare. My intent was to use a fold-down license tag holder like the one Chris/ctubutis sent me, below, to cover a hole in the bumper to access the winch's drive mechanism. I have thought about the system Chrysler used on their minivans, a winch system that pulls the tire up against the frame in the back, some later pickups use a similar system. As far as getting the tire off and on the carrier, that is what the two bolts help with. When I am travelling I usually throw a Chinese (Harbor Freight) copy of a Nascar jack in. It says "3 tons" but it will not lift Darth's front end other than a wheel. It is great for screwing with the spare carrier along with the proper incantations (not suitable for this forum) to get the spare off. I also just threw the blown tire in the bed as it wasn't worth putting it on the carrier. I was lucky that day, as it was the outside dual and my remodeled D Zee running board rear mount saved the dually fender. No loss of control as I still had a good inside dual.

I was trying to find some good pictures of mine, I have the aft axle tank and a V5 receiver hitch and deep step bumper. It is also compounded by being a DRW truck which means a deep dish to the rim. Wheel and tire sit dish down on the support and the retainer I bought from Ford is a big plastic cone with the base of the cone having a short section that fits into the large center hole on the rim. The apex of the cone has a hex nut probably the 1 1/16" as the lugs are, turning it upside down it has stepped sections for the F150 and larger non-DRW rims. I have added two short bolts that match the bolt circle as guide pins to hold the spare in place on the support bar (1443) as juggling a dually rim and 215/85R-16 tire onto the carrier is a royal PITA in the shop and even worse on the road due to the bumper/V5 receiver hitch. Fortunately I have only had to do it once back in Dec 2014 when the left outer dual self destructed at 70 mph on US13 bypass around Salisbury/Fruitland MD.

That's what I hear. The one weak spot in the old ones is the main circuit board. The electrical box/control panel on this thing is not sealed at all...it's almost like an indoor unit, but it's hanging under the coach on the side of the chassis where all the road grime gets at it. The circuit board was fried. It has a tradional old Ford style starter solenoid, so I got it to wind over and fogged the cylinders. Compression seems good...I had the plugs unthreaded, but still sitting in the holes, and even at starter speed it blew the plugs out like bullets...lol. I found a place in PA that manufactures replacement upgraded/heavy duty circuit boards, so I'm just waiting for it to arrive so I can fir the thing up. Those Onan controls really weren't designed to be out in the weather, on most Class A RVs they are pretty well enclosed with a side air grille, exhaust and cooling air dumping out the bottom. I have one, a 4.0CCK and an even older, 305CCK with a recoil starter. They spent a number of Halloween seasons running scenes in what was called "the haunted forest". I used the old recoil start one at our scout camp for a big regional meet to power our 30 ft 5th wheel (AC, lights, refrigerator) for 3 days, I have a 37 gal Marine fuel tank for it. If your panel has 2 switches, one will say "not used in this application" and the other is a 2 position, start, run and stop which there should be one inside also. The "not used" switch is a bypass for the low oil pressure and will run the Stewart-Warner fuel pump, however it will also heat the choke coil.