85lebaront2

Doesn't look too bad, carrying case is a plus. If I didn't already have two gauge sets and a killer vacuum pump I would grab it.

If I have a Chrysler suspension bolt like that, can you use it? I know I have some bigger than 12mm in dia. but don't know the thread or length without checking them.

Gary, the split in the safety catch area was most likely caused by it being stiff and the hood (bonnet for the Brits) slammed to latch it. The one on my konvertible is like that, I just crimped it together and then put some paint on the catch and pushed it down gently after aligning the hood. It no longer hit the cracked area after that. Looks good! BTW, my upper hose came off a truck at Pick-n-Pull along with the thermostat housing. Is the radiator in BB an all metal one? If so how many rows?

Mine are not painted either and have held up quite well for 34 years. Are those DeeZee running boards? They look quite similar to mine. The only issue I have ever had with my running boards was the braces going from the underside up to the cab rusted out. DeeZee had discontinued the style I have and flat out discontinued the dually bed side ones that flare outward to meet the fenders. When I replaced the rusted bed, I put a piece of square tube across where the bed side splash guard comes up. The original mounting was a long flat piece bolted to the inner bed wall in the wheel clearance bulge and wasn't real strong. This modification actually save a fender when I blew a tire at 70 mph. It was the left outer dual, left black stripes on the facing running board splash guard was the only sign.

That's a nice lookin Camaro!

Nicely done, but a word of warning, those fuel lines are not like the old rubber lines, they do not take being clamped off very well, they are nylon which can take a set or crack when squeezed together like that.

Pete, he is working on it himself, so his time vs paying someone to do it I am sure has been considered. I do this myself, some things, like the cooling system flush and replacement on my Flex go to the dealer, most everything else I do, even to the point of having already bought the timing chain replacement cam holders for it. Water pump is the center idler for the timing chain. Right now, I have a Taurus that ate it's FS10 compressor about 2 weeks ago. I have to remove it, put a bypass pulley I keep handy (fits Taurus and truck) and then see how much crap it put into the system so I know what I will have to replace.

Bill, I did check the switch and it is adjustable just did not look like it was a flat blade type? What I am not following is what you are doing with the jumpers? Is it so you can um-plug the harness to access the switch adjustment but still have it connected to the system / harness? IIRC it is a low PSI cut off switch so at what PSI should it cut off / on at? What if you adjust the switch and with gauges when it hits that PSI when it should come on you plug the harness back in and see if it works and if not adjust and try again? Local NAPA would have to order it for next day and it is for R134A. Auto Zone has it in stock but only lists the one for the R12 system. On a review someone said go with 96 truck but it list the same switch number or different switches with different plugs. If I know the PSI for the 134A I will try and adjust mine. Heck I could make a rig to use shop air and a meter to set it before I install it in the new dryer. Dave ---- What you found on the switch is not surprising, the switch screws on to a port that is essentially an R12 fitting for the gauges. The pressure temperature curves for R12 and R134 coincide at 60° F, below that R134 pressures are lower, above that they are higher. Since the port the switch goes on didn't change, and the switch is adjustable it stands to reason that many sources will sell the same switch and list it for both. Here is a temp pressure chart that may help: The switch has a pair of 1/4" wide (I think) male flat blade pins, the plug has the female portion. I made a pair of around 2" long, enough to allow the plug to be moved far enough that I could get a flat blade screwdriver into the adjusting screw. You want the pressure about 29 - 30 psi so the evaporator temperature will be near 34° F to keep it from freezing over. This was how I set the switches on Darth and the Lincoln. Both worked quite well, Darth now has a 1996 HVAC system with all the improvements. FYI, it is physically a bolt in as far as the underhood and inside casing are concerned, but the wiring routing changed and the inside has an added "demister" portion to put dried air on the wing vents when using the defroster either as a mix or full.

Pete, you do not need to change the pressure switch, it is adjustable with a screwdriver. You need to make a short pair of male on one end, female on the other jumpers so you can remove the plug, connect the jumpers across from the switch to the plug then adjust the cutoff pressure for R134. I did this on Darth and the 1990 Lincoln Town Car we owned. Matt and I drove it to an R134 conversion class and the fellow doing the class was so happy to have an R12 to R134 conversion to demonstrate on. Only recommendation was to replace the emergency relief valve with a high pressure cutoff switch.

That does bring up an issue here in VA, antique plates limit the usage, and the VSP are starting to crack down on people running them. It is supposed to an antique (over 25 years) vehicle that can be driven to and from shows, parades etc. and not as a daily driver. You are allowed to go out for drives, but the total annual mileage was and may still be limited. There is a provision for "vintage" plates and we did Matt's (son) 1965 Corvair Corsa that way. They have to be for the year of the vehicle and can be done as "antique" where they are registered to the vehicle or "vintage" where you still have the month and year of expiration stickers on them. Matt made some small tabs attached behind the plate with the mounting screws for them. When he took it a car show, he would remove them and put them in the glove box till afterwards. I currently have two vehicles that qualify as antiques, Darth and the Taurus, once the convertible is finished it will technically be an antique as even the engine is technically correct as the TurboII first showed up in the late 1986 GLHS models. One of the areas VSP started cracking down on are the street rods like the 1955 Dodge pickup I helped a friend with. He had a 360 Mopar and Torqueflite in it, along with a MustangII front suspension. It was no where near stock. He was stopped one day when he was just out riding around and told if he wanted to just drive it, put different tags on it. I suggested he do what we had done on Matt's car so he could remove the month and year stickers for shows. He decided he needed another project and sold it and started on a 1956 Ford panel truck with running gear from a 1972 Ranchero with a 351C 4 barrel engine. Ranchero was badly rusted, but ran he figured that and the early Econoline 9" rear he picked up would be perfect for the 1956 Panel.

That kind of sounds like the M880s, basically a D200, but had some idiosyncrasies in it making not exactly a normal D200. A lot was almost a trailer tow package as far as cooling system and brakes minus the trailer wiring. As far as late production, Darth was built August 1986 and some of the stuff on him is interesting. Now, front sheet metal is from a 1990, as is the E4OD, engine controls are 1996, EEC-V reflashed to do away with the misfire detector, third O2 sensor and catalyst overheat sensor. My first car, a 1964 Falcon with the 260 V8 and 3 speed was built July 27th 1964, it had 289 heads on it, instrument cluster, everything in it had PNs starting C5ZZ signifying Mustang.

You mean like this Jim? This is my wife's cousin's work van, he is a contractor and had just loaded the trailer at Northampton Lumber Company when a heater hose burst. I had to come fetch with Darth and my tow dolly, needless to say we took back roads as I didn't have the brakes on it working at that point. Pay no attention to the rude gestures from Ray and his crew, they are lovers of French vehicles.

I converted Darth to R134 years ago and even then had no problem keeping things cold until I stopped. If the truck sat and "hot soaked" it would take a long time to get cold again. Combination of no insulation on the underhood casing, the crummy 1986 blend door and being a crew cab. When a friend bought a flipped 1996 F150 4WD 5.0L truck to get the engine for his V8 Ranger project, I snagged the cab portion of the AC, the condenser was toast. Found a set of 1995 lines at Pick-n-Pull and with the compressor from the 1996 5.0L (460s had two different size clutch pulleys) and got a new 1994-96/7 Spectra Premium condenser from LKQ and adapted it to my 1990 radiator support. You can hang meat in there in summer here on the East coast of Virginia in traffic without an auxiliary fan.

So, what do y'all think about oil? I'm thinking I'll order the Brad Penn Break-In Oil since I have 8 quarts of Brad Penn 30W-40 to use after that. - deleted -

So, what do y'all think about oil? I'm thinking I'll order the Brad Penn Break-In Oil since I have 8 quarts of Brad Penn 30W-40 to use after that. Gary, 1993+ lower hose is a two part hose to allow for the "grenade". What I am doing for Darth's new engine is a NAPA hose bushing so I can use the 1984-early 1990 lower hose. Here it is on the 1992 up water pump with the 1992 up water pump pulley:

That I will be interested in too as I also have USAA. I do have full coverage including a $100 deductible on the windshield replacement. They will also, if I have a small stone chip cover a repair for that, and then if the windshield needs replacement later waive the deductible. Once the "project" is on the road, I will definitely want the low deductible and windshield coverage. $1395 + $90 for installation. In VA I can put antique tags on, but then become very limited in mileage, but no inspection. When I had Matt's Corvair on the road, I had a set of 1965 VA plates that I had our paint lab blast and paint with basically Imron so it wouldn't chip or discolor. We had to do the numbers and 19 VIRGINIA 65 by hand.

Up north in CT it has been that way for 30 years or more unless they knew you really well. When I called on the AC compressor down here in NC to the yard that listed it on Car Parts.com I asked about the AC hoses, mounting brackets & dryer, hoses & dryer were for test fitting only as I really did not want to go new and not have them fit. Anyway he told me he only had the compressor and not of the other stuff. The part was listed "still on truck", come to find out it was a diesel truck still running and they did not want to start pulling it apart. A lot of yards that will not let you in is because of insurance, if you got hurt then what? Also the EPA and oil / fuel / coolant spills and the large fines! So it is better for them to get the car / truck in, check to see what works and doesn't, drain fluids and pull parts and scrap the rest. They also don't need a much land to store part over a full car / truck. Dave ---- I am lucky in as much as (a) we still have a Pick-n-Pull in Virginia Beach and (b), very good friend owns the biggest yard in Newport News and all I need to do is let him know I am there and what I'm looking for. He will tell me where to look and I just drive Darth and my tools back there, try to get where I am not blocking access and go to work. Prices are usually very competitive, mostly free.

If the starter is bad, a recommendation is to do away with the moveable pole piece one and get a later model PMGR starter. If yours is automatic, a 1990 Lincoln Town Car one is perfect for it. There is a small bit of rewiring at the starter relay, but it is fairly easy.

Does your truck have the "hot fuel handling package" If so that is likely part of it. Be sure you have the correct diagram if you do, Ford changed it 3 times I think between 1984 and 1986.

My suggestion, if you want a quick connection at the battery end is to get a marine adapter end, it clamps around the post then has either a 5/16" or 3/8" stud that you use a lug ended cable on. I did something similar on my project vehicle, a 1986 Chrysler Lebaron convertible that the electrical system is upgraded from the fusible links to maxi fuses in a 1996 Stratus PDC.

Mine just run forward and under the radiator support with the double clamp there, but mine are the factory Aeroquip style lines. BTW, the center joint seen in some of the pictures swivels along with the ones on the cooler. That way there is no stress on them.

My adapter came off a 1988 or 1989 460 in a "huck" at Pick-n-Pull, it was a later crew cab that the frame had been cut a short distance behind the cab, the engine in it was a 1988-early 1990 460 and the cooler lines had just been hooked together and were just lying there. Cooler came from a 1988-89 dump truck the Donnie Medlin needed the transmission from. I asked him to remove the cooler with it as his crew were going to cut the front sheet metal and radiator support as they were too rusted to save. The hoses on that one got damaged so I didn't trust them. Here is the adapter as I bought it: One of my lines has a 45 on the adapter end, I believe it is the return line from the cooler.

As far as not noticing the lack of the rag joint, I have the 1992-96/7 steering column and shaft in Darth. The only difference I noticed after installing it was a much more "precise" feeling to the steering. Road shock, really can't tell any difference at all.

On the float bowl (part the gas goes in) you may be able to get a replacement from Holley if no where else. Once you do find out on the emission requirements, what engine is it and year, I have most if not all of the vacuum diagrams.

They just run straight back to the adapter where they attach. Rear hose is the supply to the cooler, front hose is return to the filter.