85lebaront2

The story I have on HEI systems concerns the secondary wiring. Due to the high output of the HEI coil and it's location in the cap I have definitely seen some interesting failures the hole burned right through the center of the rotor was always interesting, I have also seen where the coil contact for the rotor wasn't properly installed (spring had come off) so the coil self destructed. Bad plug wires, weak insulation just gives a misfire, high resistance from a bad section in the carbon coated string will cause the voltage at the coil to find a way out, usually either through the rotor or by destroying the coil. Here is a thought for someone contemplating doing an HEI conversion. On the Ford V8 engines it is very difficult to get much if any clearance for that huge GM distributor. Let me move away from US stuff, Lucas (English purveyor of electrics) had a system called OPUS, for Oscillating Pick Up System where a three sided transformer frame (quite small) was used with a plastic drum containing steel pins 4, 6 or 8 as needed that when the pin was aligned with the open side of the transformer it would produce a voltage spike which was used to fire a transistor ignition. It, like many Lucas products was at best so-so, and frequently failed. In 1980, Lucas released their Constant Energy Ignition as a refit for the MG and Jaguar models the used the OPUS systems. It consisted of a new distributor, an aluminum box with two plug in connectors, two longer coil mounting bolts and instructions for installation. The box had two through holes that matched the existing spacing of the coil mounting bolts. The procedure was to remove the OPUS distributor and replace it with the new one, move the plug wires to the new cap. Remove the coil, discard the ballast resistor and reinstall the coil with the longer bolts through the bracket. The two lead pickup wire from the distributor plugged into the box and a second two wire harness plugged into the other point on the box and connected to the + and - on the existing electronic ignition coil. Now the reason I went through this explanation, the new distributor had in it what looked for all the world like a Chrysler electronic ignition pickup and it was gapped like one with a brass feeler gauge. In the nice aluminum box was a GM 4 pin HEI module that used the Chrysler pickup to trigger it and fired a normal Lucas electronic ignition coil. I would venture the opinion that a DS-I or DS-II distributor will fire a GM HEI module and most likely a DS-II or TFI coil. If you were to take a non-Motorcraft DS box and gut it keeping the grommets and plugs for connecting to the GM HEI module then install a suitable heat sink and the module. Lucas did not use the #12 or #10 wire, just the normal wiring which leads me to believe it is the HEI coil that is the power hog not the actual module. This way to the average person the truck (or car) will look completely stock.

You are correct on that. I had a 1977 F150 with the 300 engine and a C4 transmission. Another "lab rat" (what we called ourselves in Laboratory Services at NNS) had a 1977 F100, essentially the twin to mine. His had the full 1977 light duty emission system, EGR included and his EGR came through a passage in the top of the intake into the EGR spacer. Mine had the spacer with a blocking tab covering the port in the heat stove area so the intakes were the same, just mine had the passage covered by the spacer and his had the EGR valve there.

Rusty, how do you like the Holley on that 292 4V? The strange one with the float bowl on top.

Sounds like Mercedes, put the front damping mount for the 4 cyl Diesels on the 115 chassis in the front suspension section.

It almost looks like someone cut the eyes off both springs. Why, I have no idea unless they were trying to get the bushings out and didn't have a clue what they were doing.

Biggest issue I have seen, is when a forum is run by people who own and may be passionate about the vehicle or item owned it is generally well managed, when they are acquired by a company who is interested in profit over product as happened with FTE, the general give and take and wanting to help goes by the wayside. I will occasionally go on FTE, usually because I have a notice of someone replying to a thread, other than that, no, not at all. I am also a member of some Chrysler related groups both in forums and Facebook groups, I did actually go join a Chevy forum when I was trying to get information on the late LT1 engine (I still have a problem wrapping my head around that LT1 vs the 1970 LT1 that my business partner's brother bought). He did have a pained look on his face the night a fellow who worked for us and had just finished a nice 1968 SS396 Chevelle, decided he wanted to race on a nice 6 lane wide road. We left the light 3 abreast, after probably 1/8 mile the sequence was 1 - Me in my 1966 GT350, 2 - Jimmy in his 1970 LT1 Corvette and 3 - Lesko (his last name I can't remember his first) in the 369 Chevelle. Basically in inverse order of displacement. I was courteously received and given excellent advice. Once I got the car finished I went there one last time and thanked all who had helped. I always try to go back and read through a lengthy thread asking for help in my areas of expertise to see what has been suggested and tried and results. FWIW, on FTE one time there was a fellow running a Quadrajet on a Ford, I don't recall the engine, but he was having problems with it running pig rich. I went through a list of things to look at and was told by the OP in so many words that I didn't know what I was talking about. So I said fine, told I would just back out of the thread. I did, but followed it. After several people informed him that he had probably just po'd the one person who could help him, he asked if anyone knew how to get me to come back, I waited a couple more days, then answered him with "an apology would be nice", He did and I walked him through what to look for. He had made one of the classic Q-jet errors, the metering rod piston had popped up when he was installing the air horn, one metering rod was bent and since the piston couldn't move the other was at full rich. This is why sometimes I don't promptly weigh in on a question, I prefer to read the thread and make my suggestion(s). If they aren't used, but the vehicle is fixed, that is the important thing. Gary has a set of guidelines and is a stickler about bad language and I respect that, despite having been in the Marine Corps and try to phrase my replies accordingly. I think Gary has done a fantastic job and the growth of this forum proves it.

Ok, a couple of items, your present in-tank pumps are low pressure (around 6 psi) I don't know what the recommended pressure on your TBI system is. The early EFI trucks (1986-89) used a multi pump system where there were two in-tank pumps and a selector valve/reservoir for the high pressure pump to draw from. This could be setup if you can find an early EFI truck in a junkyard. Later (1990-96/7) trucks use one or two (depending on number of tanks) high pressure pumps that are in what Ford calls Fuel Delivery Modules or FDMs the tank selection is done with a dash mounted switch that is a double pole single throw (no off position) which changes the pump and gauge sender. These FDMs have internal shuttle valves (which can leak) that close off the supply and open the return so fuel is drawn and returned to the same tank (in theory). These might work for you, and they will, with slight modification, fit in the older tanks. Gary Lewis has found that the Bullnose senders can be mounted to the later FDMs solving a gauge change issue. Unfortunately, I would not trust 30 + year old low pressure lines to be safe with the higher pressures of even a TBI system so line replacement would be advised. I personally have no love for TBI systems which is why I went to a factory port injection system using an MAF and set up sequentially. To do this requires different heads as Ford changed the port angle on the EFI heads. Edelbrock and possibly others make a port injection intake for the carbureted heads which can also be run using a TBI system as it has a regular Holley carburetor pattern flange. There are a number of threads as Gary pointed out on converting to EFI. I am sure if you ask any of us who have done this will be glad to offer advice.

Welcome! I do like the "caretaker" description. Sounds like a nice truck.

What I remember on the EGR systems, there were three different styles I have seen on carbureted 300s. On has the passage as an internal one that consists of a hole in top face of the intake next to the carburetor that connects into the adapter under the carburetor and the EGR valve is bolted to it so all the passages are internal. Second is similar, but had a long curved pipe that connected to an EGR valve with an inverted flare fitting in the actual body of the EGR valve. The third was like the second but the tube went to the adapter and from there out to the EGR valve. Truck being originally military, probably had California emissions. Every commercial vehicle I ran into in the Marines was delivered with a California emission system.

George, if it is like the one for the 460s, good luck, a number of years ago I got one of the last NOS ones from my local dealer and it was $65 my cost for a little strange shaped elbow.

Gary, same thing I put on Darth, found it a PnP in Virginia Beach.

Gary, the blue and gray hoses come down the transmission/clutch housing area as my pictures of Darth show. The stainless is from the frame bracket back toward the fuel filter and the return wye which is the reason one line is a lot longer.

Ok, now it makes sense why what have vs what you have. Your fuel lines etc. are from the huck and I ended up using later lines on Darth. Here is the set Jim pulled off the 1995 F450: One item, given (a) the close proximity of the fuel filter to the front driveshaft location and (b) the fact that you and your kids are planning on overlanding in Big Blue, I believe I would put a reasonably substantial shield between the rear joint on the front shaft and the fuel filter. A U-joint breaking or coming loose out in BFE is potentially a big enough problem, but if it takes out the fuel filter and lines at the same time, well, you get the picture and the exhaust location will just add to it.

Ok, now it makes sense why what have vs what you have. Your fuel lines etc. are from the huck and I ended up using later lines on Darth. Here is the set Jim pulled off the 1995 F450:

Mine didn't have a screen in the separator, it had a "filter" screen in the bowl inlet (try to find one, it took me about 2 weeks to track down a replacement). I never looked for a color dot and have no idea what size orifice it had. Here is a pretty good shot of the bowl vents on Darth, notice the size and the vacuum operated valves in the lines. They are closed with the engine running and open with it off.

Read what he said, that is why I mentioned the gas fumes in the air cleaner. He pulled the air cleaner and checked the fuel levels on the sight glasses and when he tried a hot start it fired right up.

I agree with the pressure should not rise (I never checked my pressure) I never had a hot start problem, but I had the Holley 4180 on with all of it's affiliated plumbing until I went to EFI. One of the things the factory bowl vent system did, the external bowl vents (on mine) were closed by vacuum with the engine running and opened to the evaporative canisters through 2 3/8" diameter vent hoses with the engine shut off. What bowl vent system does the quick fuel use, strictly into the air cleaner or is there any provision to vent to the canisters? Your test seems to confirm my thoughts, the heat is evaporating some of the fuel and the result is the air filter is now loaded with a rich mixture that even holding the throttle down won't clear. You have to crank it until enough fresh air is pulled in. On the pump system, I used to "hot wire" the pump by taking the blue fusible link off the relay pin and touching it to the battery terminal on the relay until I heard the "hiss" of gas in the return orifice. I would remove the separator and blow air through the return port and see what comes out of the inlet or outlet ends.

George, it is not only the rather violent shaking when starting and shutting the engine off, it is the harmonic vibration that gives the carburetor fits. I use Red Loctite on those and the Holley Webers on Pintos, Vegas and Chrysler 2.2s due to the 4 cyl harmonics.

IIRC they only adjusted how much pressure on the pedal was needed before the controller would move. Now if you found at 1/4 movement the trailer was locking up when empty you could adjust the resister under the hood. Now load the trailer and move it back and you were good. Now I don't ever remember it being adjusted with the camp trailer as it was loaded all the time. On my Dodge with my car trailer and the newer type controller I also have not needed to adjust it loaded or not? Dave ---- It actually changes how much of the flexible contact goes against the resistor. I didn't take any pictures of it opened up but it has worked well for me on my 1977 F150 and Darth, not too shabby for something I paid $60 for years ago.

Yep that's what it is. When I was a kid our tow car(s) had them for the trailer brakes. The controllers hooked into the brake line to apply the electric brakes and no way to "dial it back". If the trailer was empty you would slide the bar to the end away from the wires, less power to the trailer brakes. Then loaded you would slide it back to the wires, more power to the trailer brakes. The new electronic controllers you don't need this resister, it is all on the controller. Dave ---- I guess I am lucky, my hydraulically actuated Kelsey-Hayes controller is adjustable for voltage so I can "tweak" it while driving.

Damn, George, maybe I need to get with you on my Konvertible project.

Gee that tool looks familiar. The kit was well worth the price for me, plus I hadn't even started to do the lines on Darth when I had a customer with a messed up line on a Dodge, I had everything to fix it once he had it towed to my house.

Gary, the rear tank is easy with no bed installed. It still comes out the bottom though.

Pictures of fuel line mount and filter with bracket as requested: Fuel line mount from underneath: Fuel line mount attaching nuts (holes were already there): Filter clamp attaching nuts (again, holes were already there): Fuel filter in clamp, return line is passing underneath in channel, rear harness under that:

Bill - What is "that way"? Hoses slipped on the fuel line adapters? I had another thought about the connectors. The fuel line adapters appear to be steel. Why not cut a hose barb's threads off, drill it out to fit over the fuel line adapter, and sweat solder it or braze it on? Yes, high pressure hose slipped over and clamped. Do yourself a favor and get good full circle band clamps. Chrysler used hoses and clamps on the turbo cars in the 80s, pressure is 55 psi static, rising to 70 psi at 15 psi boost. Those are a disaster waiting to happen as an underhood leak can spray right on a red hot turbo and exhaust manifold. Here is a view of the clamps nd HP hose (bought from Amazon): The large hose is 5/16", small is 1/4". I reused the clamps on the 1/4" return as it has very low pressure. Rusty piece visible under the fuel rail and intake area is the exhaust manifold.