85lebaront2

I will add it to the other 2 he has won at a local show. He doesn't seem to mind one way or the other. Question for you, since I no longer have my Taurus, I have two spare Vacuum cruise control modules, I believe the trucks use the same one, anyone need one?

Gary, here are the two ducts I had pictures of back in 2015 on FTE: Upper one is E8TE-9C675-BA, lower one is F3TE-9A675-BB. Differences are, early duct has a bracket to the radiator support and a flex section into the bend before the air filter, later one is smooth and slips into the radiator support opening. One item, I found both had the section that goes into the lower air filter housing to be partially collapsed. I used a few (3 or 4) small sheet metal screws to hold the bottom flat so there are no leaks or obstructions.

Definitely different and interesting. Thank you for setting it up and running it!

Gary, here is the PN on the side of the inlet end: There is an earlier one with a flexible section. This one is pretty obstruction free. I did find that like a lot of snap together stuff it had warped at the air cleaner end so I used some little sheet metal screws to attach it and keep it open.

Gary, the inlet for the EFI 460 air box is next to the radiator and the inlet is curved away from the radiator. Inlet is visible to the driver's side of the radiator/condenser/oil cooler.

The street rod club that operates in the Newport News VA area came to me one time looking for a trophy for the best use of carburetors. I had a monster Holley 2 barrel carburetor off a USMC 5 ton truck. Truck had a 602 ci Continental in-line 6 designated R6602. My unit had found a replacement carburetor still in the original packing and one truck had an obvious carburetor issue. Since I installed it I asked what we were going to do with the old one and was told whatever you want, it's scrap. As a Holley warehouse, I was able to get a kit and rebuilt it, clearcoated it with Krylon and had it sitting on the front counter as a conversation piece. The club mounted it on an L shaped base, with a description including the USMC number of the truck. It became a perpetual trophy awarded annually at the rod run, to be returned for the next year at the rod run.

FWIW, it really only needs it on the engine side, that's all I have on Darth, the 1994-97 insulation on the engine side of the evaporator case. He will get cold even after a hot soak in a matter of minutes.

That is really beautiful!

Your drawing is exactly correct sir. The fusible links are what go to the alternator and inside the cab, they are spliced onto the ends of what should probably be yellow 8 or 10 ga wires. Good luck with it!

Gary, I just tried to vote and it doesn't seem to be tallying the vote.

The problem is twofold, first, the ignition switch on the older Fords is not capable of handling the current draw of the PMGR starter. The second part is because of that the switch is probably bad. The first application I had with a factory PMGR starter was a 1990 Lincoln Town Car we owned. It had the PMGR starter, and used a Bosch relay underhood to engage it. The way I and others have done for the PMGR is to retain the standard Ford relay and wire it with the original hot side (including the fusible links) on the front large post and the large cable to the starter also there. The existing red/blue wire from the starter terminal on the ignition switch goes to the "S" stud. The other large terminal is where the "trigger" wire to the solenoid goes. If you don't want to mess with the big Ford relay, a weather proof Bosch relay can be used, but needs a weatherproof socket. A good source for both is Chrysler built minivans from the early to mid 90s, they have a row of them on the driver's side fender.

Those should be the same, I don't think much of that changed until a lot newer.

88 is different, 1987 on the retractors are at the bottom of the locations and they come up, then through a guide about where the 1980-86 retractors are.

Try Pete's used parts in Newport News VA, petescustomauto@aol.com and put it attn: Donnie Medlin tell him Bill Vose referred you.

I picked up the white Flex today in Norfolk, only one key which can be an issue. I drove it to Hampton to get the headlights done, but, my friend with MAACO shop was two men short and swamped. I then went over to a lock shop in Newport News that I have dealt with for over 40 years, they do not stock the integrated remote keys as there are too many variations, but were able to cut and program a none remote head key for me giving me (a) a second key and (b) the ability to now add additional keys once the actual key is cut (it takes at least 2 working keys to add more using the vehicle's own system to accept them). Mary found a pack of two blanks on eBay for right at $23 delivered so once they come in I will probably bight the bullet and let Preston Ford in Keller cut them with their nice automated machine.

And you wonder why I like my nice 2WD with it's "old fashioned" king pins. Aligned once in 1994, only adjustments since have been toe-in when the tie rods were replaced. Front tyres wear nice and evenly.

So where do we start reading??

Have you tried lying underneath the truck and feeling for the scribed mark? You're probably close with where you made the polish mark since you've already got the truck running. I'm curious what the hole is for too, maybe David or Dave can enlighten us? I haven't set my timing with a light yet either. I found the process a real pain with the spinning fan right where I was trying to position the light. I have a second belt on the alternator forcing me closer to the fan. I think my timing was too retarded when I checked it, hence why I couldn't see the mark. Good luck with yours! The hole is used for a magnetic pickup on some diagnostic analyzers. It triggers on the slot in the balancer. The analyzers come with an offset chart, that value has to be set into the analyzer so the actual timing advance is displayed.

Did you have it on a spring? I have mine on a spring and I'm pretty sure that's why mine hits. I don't remember now, it's been over 40 years since we had the Packard. I'm thinking it did, but it was on a bumper mount on the rear bumper and you're talking a car that was 18 feet long.

The only thing I don't like about my whip antenna is when it rebounds and smacks the hood. Gets me every time, even after over 8 years of having the thing. I never had that problem on the Packard, I had gutter clip to hold the tip down for going into parking garages. It would put the tip of the antenna over the left rear door.

Jim, I still have my Pierce-Simpson Puma 23B. 23 channels all crystal controlled, 5 watts legal power and 100% modulation. I, and my daughter have been accused of having a linear with it. I took it out when the antenna on Darth died. A late long haul trucker friend tried for years to get me to sell it to him but I never did. When I had it in the Packard, we had a 102" whip. it just looked right on that car, and I was glad that the antenna connector was not connected to the negative side as the 1955 Packards were 12V Positive ground (only US car ever made that way).

As I mentioned before, check all the bolts, unfortunately you may have to take the tilt mechanism apart to fix it. I can look in my 1986 manual (if I can find the correct volume) and copy it for you.

Once you go through the new members process, I will be glad to assist you.

On seating the rings, high gear (4th with the ZF5) do some WOT "pulls" from where it will just pull smoothly (25-35 mph) to 55-60. Do this 5 or 6 times then just cruise a bit so everything cools down. For mine, I will have to use 3rd and not get far enough into it to unlock the converter clutch.

He may have bent the column tube where the tilt mechanism attaches, or the internal bolts may be loose. The Saginaw columns GM, older Fords and Chryslers use are bad about that.