85lebaront2

The one I ordered was the complete module, I did have an issue with the first one, it was bad out of the box, but was quickly replaced under warranty. This was in Nov or Dec 2011. I would stick with the earlier modules as Ford changed the connector in 1994 I believe (note the pigtail in your link). On the check valves, they should be there, I think the primary difference is the depth and gauge sender and you have the recall valves on the existing tanks if I remember correctly. They are removeable with a special tool, I switched the one on my front tank to the replacement module. Looking at Rock Auto's catalog, it appears that all the pump modules clear back to 1990 have been superseded by the 1996 style, probably due to updates. Most of the good ones include the pigtail needed for the electrical harness. Do you already have the Bronco tank? If not, I would order the assembly, tank and pump module.

Gary, the Spectra Premium is what I put in my front tank on Darth, the rear tank had a new NAPA that I was told was bad. Once I fully engaged the plug, it worked perfectly. SPI is decent as the assembly with a new gauge sender.

The reason Gary and I both run dual O2 sensors, our EFI systems are sequential, meaning the injectors are individually fired in the firing order sequence. If O2 sensor 11 (standardized location designation) detects a lean mixture the EEC can increase the pulse width on that bank (1-4) and for rich decrease it. For a TBI or bank fired system, a single sensor at the confluence of the two banks is adequate. I have my wideband where the stock single sensor for a bank fired system would be. Ford truck engines were all bank fired prior to 1994, 1994 302s with automatic trans and 1995 300 and 351s are the same. The sequential truck systems are easy to identify, they are all MAF systems. On the 460, only 1996/7 California models were sequential and they are EEC-V rather than EEC-IV systems and have misfire detectors and a pressure feedback EGR system along with a 3rd O2 sensor and a catalyst overheat sensor.

A - the large hole on the Holley is where Chevrolet throttle rods went on with a rubber bushing. That is way further out than a Ford throttle. B - The Chevrolet throttle hole is a bit forward of the Ford and way forward of the Chrysler locations on carburetors, both of which have much shorter throttle arms. C - IF you can get the starting point of the throttle travel almost at a right angle to the mounting surface, you will have the longest lever length at idle, progressing to a shorter length as you open the throttle D - I don't know how old you are, but I was adapting carburetors to some damn odd applications in the late 60s, and a number of Holley's adapter kits were pirated from Preston Carburetion work I did then. Fuel injection was something Corvettes and European cars had then.

In your picture, on the bottom side of the connector, you can see a small tab with a hole, insert a small screw driver and pull it away from the connector carefully while pulling on the connector body.

Let me put this in simplest terms I can, if you use a longer throttle lever, then the arc the ball travels in will be greater, It is actually the chord of the arc if you remember your high school geometry. That being said, if the stock ford throttle cable travel is 2" and it acts on a 1 1/4" lever length, the actual rotation angle is around 80° - 85° rather than a full 90°. I am not saying these are the actual values! If you are looking for a "smoother" tip in, the factory used two different methods on the EFI systems, one is a relay lever that as it moves through its arc effectively increases it's pull on the actual throttle shaft, the other is a circle segment with the cable wrapped over it. The first is what Ford used on the EFI engines, the second is what Chrysler used on their turbocharged 4 cyls. The last variation is a curved section that decreases in radius as it opens further, this way, like Ford's lever system, the initial opening is slow for the cable travel, but the last part is fast, this is because the initial opening has a large change in airflow for a little travel, essentially very sensitive, the latter part has a much smaller change for the same travel. Putting a longer throttle lever and expecting a cable and accelerator pedal designed for a shorter one to open it fully just isn't going to work. Maybe Lokar or someone else has a cable system that will satisfy your needs.

The later (1994 - 1996/7) underhood system will mount to the 1984 firewall. Wiring location changed in 1987, but that is not a major problem, Gary Lewis addresses it in his Big Blue thread. He is keeping the older condenser (1990), I used a new 4 Seasons one on Darth. Where the problems come in are the compressor and lines. The 1984-87 (I believe that is the change point) use the FS6 compressor, the later trucks use the FS10. The FS6 has what is referred to as "axial mounts" meaning meaning the mounts run parallel to the shaft, they also use a V-belt drive and the belt tension is adjusted by moving the compressor in it's mounts. The FS10 is a "tangent" mount which means it has 4 bolts that run tangent to the shaft, they also use a poly groove belt and on the 302/351 engines is a serpentine belt system using a reverse rotation water pump. This would require a complete replacement of the timing cover and all accessory brackets and pulleys (good point, the 3G alternator is used with this system). The AC line connections at the compressor also changed, FS6 uses service valves and O-ring seal screw on fittings, FS10 uses a block connection with the high pressure and suction lines integral to it. Aftermarket, Sanden makes a nice compressor and it is popular on street rods, resto modes etc. A company called "vintage air" makes some very nice kits using the Sanden compressor and has some lines available along with components to make lines. I did initially do a conversion from R12 to R134 on Darth, using all the original components and it cooled quite well with the exception of a hot restart where it would take a bit to get cool. This was more due to the design of the system, the poorly sealing blend door and uninsulated evaporator case (underhood) and once everything cooled down again it was fine. Hope this helps.

At least the belt setup is a Mustang, intake is definitely the truck system.

Definitely appears to be an FS10, where is it mounted, looks like it is way low from the picture. Could the engine be from a car? Maybe a Mustang, Crown Victoria, Thunderbird?

I have a question, why would you need a 2" to 1 3/3" adapter, aren't the the same size?

Make sure that there are no air leaks at the carburetor and EGR spacer. Pull the vacuum hose off the EGR valve, if it goes rich when you do that, you have a vacuum valve leaking or something is plumbed wrong in the vacuum hoses. If it makes no difference, with it idling carefully (use a wet rag) check the valve and tube near the valve, if they are real hot, exhaust gas hot, then the valve is leaking or stuck partially open. This will make it exceedingly lean. If yours does not have the external EGR tube, then the gasket between the adapter and intake may be bad. Ford actually used to recommend cleaning them of carbon deposits periodically due to wanting to stick partially open.

Gary, found the picture I was looking for with the NAPA hose bushing PN. it is 902, if your source hasn't found it yet maybe this will help.

Does it have the serpentine belt system? Does the compressor look like this: If so than it is an FS10, see if there is any kind of label, or post a picture. If you can't post, you can send me an email through the site.

The reservoir is the switching valve on 1986-89 trucks with EFI. Last time someone needed it Ford still had them (at a price). As far as fitting and working the 1987-89 is the same except for the internal filter in the 1986 one. Fuel tank relay, if used, will be on the firewall, go here for information: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/electric-fuel-pump-control.html There is an inertia switch on the heater duct, passenger side of the transmission hump that may be tripped or bad. You can jumper the plug for test purposes. You have two fuel pumps (actually three) one on the frame and one in the tank. The frame one is the high pressure pump for the EFI, tank pump is low pressure and used to fill the reservoir for the high pressure pump. I like the upside down dual exhaust picture.

Gary, the feedback system affects both idle and main, it works on the air bleeds of both systems. The other thing, if it is bad, the system may be going into limp mode.

Gary, fluid flows down and the air bubbles will rise. Best bleeding I did on hydraulic clutches was from a Mercedes-Benz manual. Their clutch master sits at about the angle the rod from pedal to cross shaft sits on the older trucks. Bleeding from the top is impossible. The procedure says "using a piece of rubber tubing connect the slave cylinder bleed screw to the left front caliper bleed screw. Loosen the clutch slave bleed one turn, using a brake bleeder (pressure) crack the caliper bleed until all bubbles in the reservoir are gone." Of course the MB clutch master is fed from a nipple on the master cyl reservoir. I have bled many a hydraulic clutch that way and helped my supervisor in the lab do his X19 that using one of the rear brakes.

Thank you, it's a work in progress, right now it's just being used as my Taurus ate it's FS10 compressor and has been sitting until I can at least put the bypass pulley on so it can be driven while I asses the level of contamination in the system.

I have used 4 Seasons before with good results, not familiar with UAC.

So I don't need to go into the giant Ez-Bake oven and search through my > 12mm bolts.

Back when I had my shop, Ford products were always a problem on throttle linkage or cables going from a 2 to 4 barrel carburetor. With the linkage, if it was a pull rod, sometimes there was enough adjustment that it would work, push style (used late 60s into the 70s) was a real problem, I made more than a few out of rod stock. On the cables, Chrysler had the best setup, the casing was adjustable, GM products, Chevy in particular, usually aftermarket manifolds had the correct hole location. Ford uses a longer "front" portion to reach the throttle arm on a 4 barrel, relocating the attachment (bracket) on the intake will sometimes solve the problem. Biggest issue with aftermarket "universal" carburetors or injection throttle bodies, they are made with a Chevy throttle lever which (a) is longer that a Ford and (b) the angle of it is further forward than a Ford. If the sniper has the extra holes that the Carter AFB and Holley performance carbs have, then the lower rear hole is almost perfect for the factory Ford cable. Cruise, if you have the bead chain "cable" at worst case a hardware store may have extra chain that fits.

Ok, here they are: Right side cab board Left side, both cab and bed boards Left side, underneath looking forward from under the bed Left side, looking back toward rear wheels Support tube for rear of bed side boards Right bed side board ready to be reinstalled Original rear support for left bed side board Mount for rear of left cab side board, rusty piece is from original mounts. This also gives a good view of the extrusion. End cap for boards, rear of cab and front of bed and they are left and right hand to match the respective ends

Look in with your 10mm socket.

I'll try to look tomorrow if someone will turn of the blast furnace.

Mine was done in Suffolk VA for the original owner, Del-Mar Stables so I would imagine they put them on along with replacing the front bench seat with a pair of Pyramid ones and adding a storage console between them. FWIW, both front seats leaned outboard toward the doors. I have pictures I took underneath when I was repairing the mounts with my "almost" granddaughter, she was 14 at the time and had a ball helping.

Only reason I know what mine are is they say it on them. They are extruded aluminum and the bolts slide into the slots. Two big flattened Z shape supports from the rocker panel lip down and three braces under the cab then a rear support and the splash guard at the front. When I redid the supports DeeZee sold me a crew cab installation kit so I was able to replace the rusted supports. I went to Fastenal and bought a load of CRES bolts, nuts and lockwashers then used plenty of antiseize on the bolts.