85lebaront2

Jim, if "new style" means 1992-97, it actually has one u-joint inside the cab and one at the box. If it is a replacement for the rag joint and can joint, you may have to cut the can off the base of the column shaft.

Gary, I actually ran Darth on EFI that way until I was sent the 1994 lines, it worked well with no leaks.

Because I was hoping Bill was right and it would be so simple. But, as it turns out it isn't quite that simple. So, I think I'm going to use the wires coming down to the switching valve in reverse and send the sending units' output back up them to the to-be relay. The color codes won't be right, but it'll work. Speaking of just making it work, I pulled a whole lot of tape and convolute off trying to find S160, which is where the resistance wire going to the fuel pumps in Run originates. I need to bypass that to give the pumps full battery voltage in Run, but think I'm going to cheat and just jumper from the Tank Selector Relay, which does have battery voltage in Run, to the Fuel Pump Cutoff Relay. Thoughts? Also, I got the Holley fuel pressure regulator in, so I'm ready when the time comes to install that. However, I still haven't found the 5/16" and 3/8" male quick disconnect to barb connectors I'm looking for to let me use the quick disconnects with the fuel pressure regulator and carb. I may improvise, but if someone has suggestions please pass them on. Last, I cut the Bullnose fuel tank connectors off and grafted the new pigtails on. If you look at the switch for the hot fuel handling package (which Darth had) it has 6 pins and is a DPDT no center off switch if you uses one side of the switch for the pumps and the other side for the gauge senders it will work fine, same as the 1990-97 system does. It will require taking the two gauge sender wires at the tank selector valve and extending them to the switch, and moving the gauge wire to the center pin on the other side of the switch. Why complicate things with an additional relay?

Is the actual tank selector switch the same, just wired differently? To me adding a relay, if it isn't needed is just over complicating things. Looking at the 5.0L EFI and the 7.5L hot fuel handling diagrams, both show a double pole double throw no off switch with 6 pins 1 - 3 for one side and 4 - 6 for the other. It might involve rewiring the switch so that it will (a) run the pumps and (b) select the appropriate sender. On the EFI, pin 1 is front tank pump, 2 is feed, 3 is rear tank pump, 4 is front sender, 5 is dash gauge, 6 ir rear sender. On the 7.5L, pin 1 feeds the tank selector valve motor to drive it to the front tank position and it in turn, changes the sender. Power is fed in through pin 2. Pin 5 provides the ground for the selector valve motor to pin 4 through it's internal diode. To select the rear tank, the switch now powers pin 3 and grounds pin 6 causing the motor to drive the valve and it's internal switch to the rear tank. If you take the power in and leave it on pin 2, use pin 1 for the front pump (red wire) and pin 3 for the rear pump (brown with white wire) then connect the dash gauge wire (yellow with white) to pin 5 and connect the front sender (dark blue with yellow) to pin 4 and rear sender (yellow with light blue) to pin 6 everything will work as designed and no extra relay is needed. At the tank selector valve there are 5 wires, 3 of them will need to be extended to the inside of the cab to the tank selector switch. This is far easier (and cheaper) than finding a completely weather proof relay and socket and wiring it in place of the valve. We had to make a somewhat emergency run to Virginia Beach and Norfolk so did not get you the pictures of the lines and filter mount.

Gary, look at the wiring used on the 1986 EFI 302 for the tank selector system, I believe it was all in the switch changing which in-tank pump was powered and which sender was connected to the gauge. Compare that to the 1996 system, relay, if needed, can be up on the firewall or inside the cab.

Happy birthday to your son! I did a lot of my undergraduate and graduate work overseas so I have a lot of ties to a lot of countries. I love to travel, always have. I'm in the middle of restoring an old camper I can't wait to pull behind the "new" truck. Once those projects are done I plan on doing a lot more exploring on this side of the pond. Welcome to our forums. As for ages, I am a year older than Gary and my daughter turned 55 in June, older son will be 53 on August 20th, younger son (has an Excursion and Harley) was 43 in May. I am 74. I have had Ford trucks for a while, Darth is my 3rd, first two started as 6 cyl models and were converted to V8s. As for the forums we have a lot of very knowledgeable people on here and plenty of resources.

As far as icing up a carburetor, I think the absolute worst was the old Holley "visi-flow" one barrel with the glass float bowl. Those would actually ice up the venturii to where they would barely run at all and the only cure was to pull over and shut it off and wait a couple of minutes for the engine heat to thaw it out. Cycling the choke with the engine off would break the ice (choke was in the venturii) and speed things up. Before I converted Darth to EFI I had a few cool mornings where he would gradually slow down and go rich, followed by a sudden increase in rpm from throttle body icing, once the air preheat got high enough temperature it would stop.

I was told two things regarding boats (a) they are a hole surrounded by water into which you pour money, (b) two happiest days in a boat owner's life, the day he buys his first boat and the day he sells it.

Gary, I will have to get the ones the Jim gave me and get pictures, they should be the same. Those lines are from a 1994 a fellow on FTE gave me and the hard line starts at the filter if I remember correctly, the black "hose" behind the steel line is the plastic return line in a rubber jacket. The filter and bracket came with the lines, or may have been from Big Ugly (1990 F250).

I called it armored flex, it is probably the nylon or similar line inside a braided stainless steel covering.

Jim, that's why I spent the money on the Dorman kit. I used the unaltered 1990 lines from rear tank to front tank, then made new ones from front tank to where the armored lines go to and from the engine. From there they are steel and aviation style armored flex.

I have been running Darth with these for probably 9 years and never had a leak. The Dorman kit actually doesn't use heat, it has a set of various jigs to actually press the fitting into the line.

Two items, first, due to the return lines on the EFI system returning fuel that has run through the nice metal rails on top of a hot engine, there is a greater amount of vapor pressure in the tanks. Second the VMV is the one that does not need the pressure sensor, and unless Core Tuning has finally worked out a solution for that, it will illuminated the MIL. The problem I am getting with the VMV is the code wasn't in the version of BE I had at the time, it is a duty cycle value for the control solenoid. It is now, I just haven't really fiddled with it yet. On the other question, the EFI 460s have two charcoal canisters in series, one slightly above the other, essentially what Darth had, just no longer has the snakes nest of vacuum lines and dual purge valves, nor the mess of bowl vents and vacuum operated valves for them. I imagine the reason for the 3/8" vapor lines is due to the fact that the 460 carbureted trucks didn't vent the tanks very well, coupled with the added heat to the returning fuel. On your lines, I bought a Dorman fuel line repair kit 800-300, it includes 3/8 and 5/16 lines and lots of various shaped and style fittings (says 104 pieces) For what I needed to make up with a 168" wheelbase it was worth it because the longest repair pieces were 24" and needed to be connected together. Same reason I bought a big roll of 3/16" brake tubing so I could replace the lines on the frame.

Gary, move up to a 1984 or 1985 351W 2V and see what numbers come up. 1984 AllData gives me E4TZ-9510-AC and 1985 E5TZ-9510-AA. FWIW, in 1983 AllData shows a Motorcraft 7200 VV feedback carb or a Motorcraft 2150 non-feedback carb. I was using an F250 for reference.

Jim, you are correct. Here is the 1990 front tank installed before it was covered by the bed. One of the issues I ran into, Big Ugly was a standard cab, long bed F250 and the front portion of the vent line was 35" too short and had some bends in it to clear some things as it went down the side of the frame and turned across at the rear cab mount crossmember. There is also a rear section that had either a tee or wye where the front connected. I extended the front portion in the area where the old line had a straight run (I used it as a pattern). The second line from the front and rear tanks goes to the crossmember behind each tank and has the plastic "cross" with a small cap similar to the axle vents. Front one is visible in this picture running across the frame. They are held by a large clip just after the end cap area.

I am going to give you a suggestion, tank vents, Darth, and I suspect Big Blue used a 3/16" line from both tanks. When I took the tanks and lines from Big Ugly (parts truck) the vent lines were 3/8" and the rollover valves had a hose on each that went up on the nearest frame crossmembers. In doing some research I found that the over 8500 GVW trucks did not, even in 1996, have a sealed vapor recovery system. I highly recommend you use the 3/8" vent lines.This also explains why there was a problem in the programming of the EEC-V system (two different purge systems) the smaller engined, lighter trucks use a canister purge valve and the system looks for a tank pressure sensor, the over 8500 GVW trucks use a VMV (Vapor Management Valve) that is controlled by a duty cycle vacuum solenoid and does not look for or need a pressure sensor since the tank(s) will be at atmospheric pressure as they are not sealed.

The fill plug is magnetic, but yes you could, I didn't have a magnetic one or I would have.

Jim, when I did the disc conversion and ended up having to do the ring and pinion on his 10.25" I drilled and tapped a 3/8 pipe hole in the bottom of the casting. I put a hex socket pipe plug in and it is nearly flush with the casting. Drain plug is circled in the picture and is in the lowest point in the housing.

I thought I had replied to this thread, it was regarding a 1983 351W with EEC-III and a 7200VV carburetor. The discussion was regarding the needed venturii size which is cast on the left side of the float bowl. 1.14 is the most common being for the 302 engines, I believe 1.21 was the 351, 352 and even 390 may have used that size. If by chance someone runs across a 1.33 marked bowl, that was for the 429 2V engine. Electric choke was also asked, if the engine has a choke stove on the intake then a hot air choke can be used, if not then an electric one will be needed. A 1.21, particularly if the catalytic converter is gone should be great. EGR was also asked about and what I said was the EGR does help with light throttle detonation as it slows the burn rate slightly. Vacuum ports, some of the 2150 carbs had two, one coming in earlier than the other, the early one being used for vacuum advance and the later one for EGR, however, some Ford applications used the EGR port for both. EGR generally had a thermal vacuum valve to keep it from working until the engine was warm. Distributor and ignition system. First, since Ford built these trucks with numerous engine/emission packages, the front harness down the left inner fender probably has the connections for the DS-II system replacing the DS-III box, but you will need the distributor to coil and box wiring which may also have the oil pressure and temperature wiring in the same harness. You need the round can DS-II coil as it uses a resistance wire in the harness (should be there and the DS-III coil may be the same). One item, some DS-III systems used a crank pickup which if it is on the front outside of the engine can be removed, if it is on the rear, you will need to leave it there as it is in front of the rear crank seal and will spray oil if removed.

If he would read replies instead of scattergunning the forums he might get what he needs,

If I remember correctly, with the heater control panel pulled out there is a plug that goes to the blower motor and the AC harness plugs there in place of the heater only harness. The harness exits the cab on the right side under the AC evaporator casing. This the original evaporator casing on Darth, heat shield faces the exhaust manifold area to protect the harness visible in the foreground.

Gary, there is a tool that slides over the line and goes up inside the check valve to open the "teeth" that lock it to the outlet line. When I replaced the front FDM on Darth my full coverage disconnect set had the correct release tool.

No, but that is the person who was asking about the harnesses I have that are in the picture.

We didn't even get much rain here, winds may have hit 40, eye went West of us, pretty well up Chesapeake Bay.

It's exactly this that reinforces why I don't want a 4WD pickup. Too much extraneous monkey motion and weight.