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I (personally) wouldn't want to see any spacers on a dedicated tow rig. I mean, form over function does not belong on the highway hauling heavy.

Right But on my 460 the pivot is at the top and the adjuster on the bottom. That alternator would be pointing at the block.

Jim, I need you help to give you the right answer. Not sure what measurements I should do. Here are two pictures of Big Bro's 1G (not easy to take picts down there, I do my best!). Oh, and these acrobatic pictures highlighted some worrying factors: Look at this exposed wire. Hoping this is a ground! I suppose it doesn't matter much with a 1G because there is no regulator plug and wires on studs can point in any direction. Give me a few minutes (it's just starting to rain) and I will try to get the photos of the rear of a 3G from the tutorial. Then we can determine what is going to point that regulator plug towards the fender.

Where along the track are you headed? 🌑

Rims with about 4" more offset should take care of that....

Muriatic IS Hydrochloric..... Do you ever read the label, so you can understand what kind of dangerous stuff you're dealing with?

Stuff like that seems to. If the rear axle were wider the hubs would be in the next lane.

That's entirely normal. The front wheels need space to turn so they don't hit the frame.

Stay away from the hydrochloric if you can. Chlorine remains corrosive (in fact, it's probably sodium chloride that started the problem

I don't know how worthwhile the tech library is if all the links are dead.... But the October right up on installing a 3G certainly has merit

I recall you and Chris T discussing archiving both RJM & Ford Fuel Injection sites when Ryan disappeared. Shame.. Maybe the Way Back?

You always reap the benefits of house projects, though. Your home or yard is nicer to come back to every day thereafter (and believe me, I've had some tasks that took months to complete!)

Still seems a deal, for an extra 8 you get heads, a cam, timing set, guides, valves, springs and rockers. I appreciate a long block because I'm not concerned about interference, but I do want to make sure the block is square and very close to zero deck. I hope you have a productive summer working on your house.

IIRC Ryan's video, they get to abt 107A before it starts to slip (and this is 'normal' tension/deflection) The real advantage of the 3G is it's ability to make power at far lower rpm that 1 or 2G units.

Click your username/avatar and you will see profile in the window that opens. 😉

Area Diesel Service has some detailed pump rebuilds too...

Jacking deer, are we? 🤔 🤫

I'm surprised that you can get any long block for $1800. (even from Mexico) I'm looking at 3k minimum for the basic components I want.

Good news! We have plenty time to discuss about the right model to buy. That’s in my «to avoid» list, but if not complicated, I can go there. Interesting point. I am wondering about some discussions I read about the V-Belt capability to turn a higher amperage alternator, without slipping. Tell me what your clocking is now. 95A comes from a 3.0 V-6 of the same vintages (92-97) and can be 7" C-C, BUT because the adjuster ear is thicker than a 1 or 2G you still have to bend the crescent shaped adjuster.... If you get the one with the 8mm hole you can run a 3/8 NC tap in under power and you're done. (this, to simplify tools -all engine bolts are SAE-) and the adjuster arm is meant to fit 3/8, NOT 5/16 (8mm) Install a LRC regulator and 99% of the slipping is eliminated. If the truck has sat and it's battery is low it will still squeal until the belt gets hot* and grabs. Dammit phone! 😖

The difference between that and a 92-3 3.8 V-6 is in the adjuster bolt. One is threaded 8x1.25 and the other is unthreaded for a clamping bolt & nut.... This is why I say tap (OR Helicoil) the hole 3/8-16 and use your existing bolt that takes a 9/16 wrench. You're under there trying to keep tension. You don't have TWO hands to clamp a bolt & nut....

It's a good approach. Brass or bronze can't ever rust again.

Please don't forget to leave vendor feedback in the marketplace section 💡

Why would that be worse at startup after sitting, than when you chopped the throttle, and vacuum spiked?

Valve seals? Does it smoke if you really put your foot in it and then back off? I can't imagine what else would cause smoke on startup after sitting. Is your 351 like some 302's that have the PCV going to one runner instead of the plenum? A little too much blow by and that single runner gets filled with oil mist. This causes a fouled plug and detonation in the cylinder, which causes broken lands, rings or a melted piston..... It's a vicious cycle known to many Mustang owners. (I haven't owned a Windsor since that '85 GT) If you're buying a roller block engine don't you have to return the same, as core?

If they're stainless they will gall up solid long before they get tight enough, if you don't use moly grease or something like PST on the threads. DAMHIK...