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Adding to my list when I go back. Along with the stuff I left behind. Glad you are okay! It's no fun at all to get electrocuted. I'm reminded of ~20 years ago on a hot summer afternoon when my (departed) friend and I stopped at the local pizza place. I was sitting in the front window and he was sweaty, leaning against the -grounded- Coke* machine. I took hold of the neon light connection and reached out to grab his arm. Yeah. That's every bit of an older ignition coil!

Dang nabbit! It's oke I can take the cowl back. It looks right I wonder what the difference is? Only thing I can think of is the screws in the back. The hood profile is different.

I think the air gap is constantly changing and there may be a shaft speed where there is a harmonic, or where centrifugal force (from an out of balance rotor???) may cause spark to scatter or be lost. Is there any sign that the reluctor has actually touched the pickup? You might try covering the pickup surface with permanent marker. If something actually touches, that's going to trigger spark, as surely as rapping the distributor with a screwdriver handle will cause a spark. There's a whole section on testing and limits for DS-II. I'd posted it back on FTE a few times, but don't have that computer anymore....

Ah, okay I'm looking at my phone without glasses. So you're jiggling around the plate, and not the reluctor? How many miles would you estimate got put on that distributor in the past 8 years?

I'd say it needs a new bushing at the least. Pull it and take a look at the gear too! Something isn't right in there. 🙄 Like I said, I don't have any experience with precious metal plugs in these old V-8's I'm not trying to say they're the problem, but I like to eliminate possibilities. I KNOW the V-powers work and come correctly gapped. They're all I use these days.

Consider coil breakdown or the module overheating. Coolant passing through the engine 'should' eliminate too much variation, but underhood* temps will soar if the truck isn't moving. My phone is incredibly frustrating when it decides it knows better than me what I'm typing. 😖

Quite the community you have there in NC! 👍 Kudos to everyone who helped.

You might look at Bear River Converters They have a bunch of fully welded stainless steel mufflers, in all kinds of configurations. https://www.bearriverconverters.store/products/jones-mf2468-muffler-no-stock

If the distributor shaft has slop you know where the problem is. I don't ever use anything but V-power copper plugs. They always work fine, don't cost much and don't have the bad reputation platinum and iridium plugs do. But I'm not trying to malign them, I have no empirical data.

Only '87-'91 cowls fit. There's a body line change between aeronose and obs.... Not the part number, but the engineering number. You can cross in the MPC.

My baby brother's department refuses to impound any EV's because of state mandate on separation. Hitting a charged fence when sweaty is a sure fire way to wake you up and pay attention!

If the forked starter cable is good, and the 3G harness is always a nice score too!

I think Melling makes pumps, lifters and cams for Ford. I have a stock replacement 429/460 cam I bought from U-haul surplus. ...... in the barn..... back in Wilton. 🙄.

The snorkel is already loose. If you want a dual inlet like Gary grab that and the plastic piece that fits to the radiator support....💡

Glad for that! 👍 I used to wish we could do the roof deck install of ice & water shield only in the winter for the same reason. Dealing with a soft & sticky roll of that stuff 1m by10 (3x33') in the baking sun could be a real disaster.

Or you could just, you know, tap a hole for a barb fitting to a common point in the plenum and run the pcv hose to that. It's a 2€ fitting and doesn't take any space. Something different will have to happen when you change to maf because you don't want to keep contaminating the sensor and as Bill points out you can't bypass it.

Why a barb to AN adapter? Just change the water pump and manifold fittings. How are the swivel ends attached? Do you keep turning the radiator around until it's tight? How do you deal with a heater core on the other side of the firewall?

Thank you for documenting this. Many times I try to explain what load response control is and why, but if a picture's worth a thousand words a video is.... 30fps, carry the one....

I never really gave a lot of thought to just the slave mount, since 460's and diesels have an integral boss. Rear counter shows Bob Allen Ford in Overland Park KS having one. You might RFP and see how dear they think it is. Eta: https://www.rearcounter.com/E4TZ-7A544-A-parts395455.html

I hate to say I have many worm clamps, they're Norma, but they are worm clamps... I always have a hard time finding constant tension clamps that fit correctly, but I usually don't have time to mess around when I lose a hose.

Let's get John/Machspeed on the case as he's the keeper of the decals. How's he doing down there in Wagoneer since his bypass surgery? I haven't seen him on the forum since he installed climate controls in his garage shop.

I think some were 50. Electric fans in Lincoln's and Taurus/Sables were 70 or 80 IIRC. Good scores in the junkyard.... But certainly the fuel pump relays and clearance/trailer lights weren't.

So I'm E5TZ-C.... Colour me shocked that a dually gets a different jack, but there it is.....

I'm not going that deep, but I do have bed lights and a pair of 4" lights attached to my receiver side plates that come on in reverse. I used to learn a lot from the Wehlen tech that would come out to the tow shop to setup different patterns or troubleshoot the systems when Junior -who has no idea- messed with them..., Nothing like laying on the side of the highway in driving rain with no lights and trucks whizzing by your head at 70+!

It's the same starter as any Windsor. The only real difference on install is that the ground cable goes to one side.