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Mud daubers a big problem for you this time of year?

Be very careful. Don't pry or pull on the teeth. Check the shaft bushings in the distributor housing for any wear or slop while you have the advance plate removed. Here are Scott's instructions to take apart and recurve the DS-II distributor. http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.html The roll pin indexes the reluctor to the shaft. You must get the pin back in the correct slot or your ignition timing is going to be out. (see the warning in Scotts pages)

The same fuse panel is used in a truck and a Bronco. If you have a Brono (with a tailgate) you get a fuse. If you have a truck with power whatever you get a circuit breaker

I don't recall you posting about it, but it appears there is a condensate drain from an AC or dehumidifier that should be running directly outside that has been instead tee'd in PVC. This is only going to keep filling the lower red hose (I assume that is the tank drain?!?!? ) What do you think is going to happen if you open 100+# of pressure to that fitting? 'Cause I can guarantee it wants to go straight up and not outdoors.

"Tailgate power window" is unique to Bronco's. They have a very different rear half of the main chassis harness. ( power window and lock, the way the taillights ground, etc..)

The purpose of break-in oil and a break-in procedure is to get all the components of a new engine to lap into one another. These are old style engines using old style metallurgy, machined to old style tolerances. Your cam made it past the first 20 minutes, don't screw it up now. Edit The most important things are: don't lug the engine, vary the rpm, put it under load (either running it up through the gears or bursts of acceleration on the highway) You want to make it work and then let off so surfaces can cool down and oil can bathe away any possible contamination. Engine builders break in engines on the dyno every day. It's not gentle, but it's respectful.

You need to actually put pressure on the rings to get them to seat. 'Babying' I new engine is not recommended. Nor is keeping the rpm's at one speed. You may not want to push it past 3.000 rpm for the first few hundred miles but you definitely don't want to glaze the cylinders and have to pull it apart to re-ring either.

Interesting! I suppose that solves the problems with LH lugnuts and having to pull the whole damn axle apart to get at the brake shoes. Does this kit work with the standard master cylinder? Do you have to remove the brake proportioning (multifunction) valve?

Depending on what's wrong with your radiator support frame 'horn' , JBG offer what they call frame savers. Basically a big washer with a hex cut out that you can weld in where they usually rot out under the bushing. I'm sure LMC have the whole mount that you can bolt on after punching the rivets out. Be mindful that later disc brake rear ends have a different (metric) bolt pattern. E series van disc rear ends have the right pattern but are different width and spring perches.

Well that is the first I have heard of and is a good thing if true. Dave ---- See the edited post from Feb 7th.... https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Larry-the-Lariat-My-86-F150-4x4-td125403i120.html#a131218 You can read on through the next page to see how it turned out.

I've seen a recent post that said the Taiwanese LMC hose was extra long (21"?) and that it fit the later ('87-'96) tanks but could be cut down. I think that Mat said that he would be buying a few.

Best to scour off any goo. I've never encountered this with Ospho or Kleen-Strip but have with SEM's Rust Mort. None of these trucks came with a steering damper and I haven't ever seen it offered as an option in any of the documentation I've read.

New carpet looks great! IIRC Dave (Fuzzface) had to do some filler hose splicing when he installed a second tank in his Flareside. Not sure where that post is but it may help.

I've spent an hour searching this forum for that post. Google gets worse and worse, I'm sorry it hasn't turned up.

Maybe! I couldn't say, as this truck has never had AC or Hydro boost. I do know a thing or two about bending aluminum tube but never tried it in place and under pressure.

The solenoid doesn't connect to ground. If you have a PMGR starter you need a 'Y' cable that connects to the fender relay and the solenoid on the starter. Not too long ago one member was looking for a ground cable (with the 'flag' that grounds to the crossmember. He found it for a reasonable price. Let me see if I can find the post.

Glad you found it! Especially glad that the MC haven't rubbed a hole in the AC canister. Though I'd watched your videos I certainly couldn't tell that the sound was coming from the brake booster into the cab. Do you think there is enough room in the mounts to shift the line? Or is there another application that doesn't have that can in the same place?

I agree with Gary, if you don't have any weight in the truck you're going to want to be somewhere in the '50's Tires with high aspect ratios and carcass plies need a good amount of pressure to keep from feeling squirrelly and flexing the sidewalls enough to heat the rubber. A truck is never going to ride as compliant as a car but there's no reason for pressure to be at the limit without a big load.

And make sure to NEUTRALIZE the Ospho, depending on paint that needs be done. You don't need to 'neutralize' the Ospho if you dilute it as recommended. Just thoroughly rinse it off I tend to buy Kleen-Strip Concrete and Metal Prep from Home Depot (it's cheap and readily available) Same blue/green solution for $18 a gallon, and you dilute 3:1 for painting.

Please do and THANK YOU! I already did! 😁 You can see 'assignments' at the top of any page in this thread. "Priority 3, normal" You're basically sending them a request to participate. Hopefully Ron has some good news for anyone that wants/needs these dash patches, because quite a few members have reached out, unsuccessfully. I'm not sure if it is still in the Shapeways library. Perhaps I can go back to FTE and dig up the thread. Edit: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1359252-dash-speaker-hole-area-repair-plate-finished.html And: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td30179

I've never seen anything like it Perhaps it's for military fleet vehicles only?

I sent Reamer a note some time ago. Never heard anything. If you have a way to get to him, let me know. I AM interested! Well, he's in the other corner of the state (but it IS a tiny State) Maybe he hasn't got the printing figured out yet? I do believe the original ones ($$$ by Shapeways) were fused structural nylon and he has a FDM. But now many other print farms are in operation, or it could get jobbed out to a 'broker' like Xometry. Definitely TPU or PETN would have a hard time keeping their shape, baking in the sun on a summer day. What I CAN DO is assign him to this thread so he will get notice and perhaps reply.

Gary made the CAD design for Ron/Reamer. I think there is a sticky in the marketplace section if you want to order a speaker hole dash patch.

The only one I see that includes the residual pressure valve is from Dynamic Friction. (Link) But it also says "without speed control" so it doesn't have the port on the front for the switch. I don't think that's an issue with older trucks that came with the cast iron master, but IDK for sure. Gary???

Larry has a 150, so that master cylinder part number is wrong for an 8,600 gvw truck. (see what I said about 1 1/16" bore) The residual pressure valve may be correct. I know the Ford P/N I posted is good for '87-'93