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I've always been partial to the Norma embossed tooth conventional hose clamps. They come in three widths and don't have any sharp edges. (also available from BelMetric)

Spindles are never cheap, especially if you want OEM quality Dana/Spicer product. I've found that JBG has the best prices and prompt shipping. (when I've needed driveline components) https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Dana-44-Spindles-Lockouts/products/1091/ I haven't gone hunting for better prices. I'm just a satisfied customer.

Look in the EVTM. Both 'charge & power distribution' and 'start & ignition/glow plugs' have entirely different chapters for gas or diesel.... Hopefully his 460 has a mechanical fuel pump. Again, the diesel fuel delivery is completely different. Edit in page links from the 1985 EVTM: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/charge--power-distribution-gas.html https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/charge--power-distribution-diesel.html https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/start--ignition-gasoline-engines.html https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/start--glow-plug-controlrun-diesel.html https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/fuel-tank-selector--gauges-gas.html https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/electric-fuel-pump-control1.html https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/fuel-tank-selector--gauges-diesel.html

The IDI crossmember is dented to fit the 460 oil filter adapter. The deepest issue is that the diesel has an entirely different wiring harness, with no provision for ignition. This is one of those rare instances where I would advocate an HEI.

Welcome! Glad you've joined. 20 years is a long time. Be on the look out for a new (automatic) steering column and instrument cluster with shift indicator.

Top left of the page where it says 'Bullnose Forum' Middle of the drop-down menu is Member's Map

Welcome! Glad you've joined. We always love trucks with family history, and yours looks to be a fine example.

I'm not seeing a harness that connects from ground to the radiator support, I only see the ground from the battery connect to block and then the block to the firewall. I rented a different fuel gauge and the highest pressure it would read was 30 psi because it kept leaking at the adapter and that was with the pump constantly running *AT the radiator support C101 is the battery ground terminal pigtail connector. The truck harness that runs up the passenger side fender turns across the radiator support and connects (almost) directly to the battery through C101.... The ECA controls the injector pulse through the ground side. C101 (or lack of it) is often cited for "driveability" issues.

If you made a new ground cable, how is the pigtailed ECM (injector) ground that comes from the battery ground terminal to the radiator support where it connects to the computer's harness?

Those two should connect to a yellow wire and the yellow wire to a black/orange wire and another fusible link (J)at the hot relay lug (as can be seen in the diagrams I posted) Look at circuit 38-37 and fuselink J in the ammeter diagram

Cummins..... (or Fummins, as it's in a Ford) It would be great to hear from Paul.

I'm looking at the '85 EVTM and it seems you should have at least three fusible links, assuming that you don't have an aux battery or EEC. Which, depends on whether you have ammeter or idiot lights. Sorry there is no '83 EVTM here on the site. Have you tried to trace the one that blows to see where it's shorted out?

Which link is it? Do you only have one???

I'm glad it worked out for you Chris! I had issue with my sender clocking, but I don't have the in-tank pump. Maybe there's a difference? For my side tank I just ordered the '80-'86 tank and cut out the vent tube loop. The '80-'86 sender fit fine.(as it should)

It's a few connectors, some wire and a heatsink but you need a blank-off plate and the harness should be shielded. IDK how you feel about that but in my mind it would be much easier to get the harness that someone else has already done all the trouble shooting. Probably the same $$$ in the end.

The two places I know that used to offer TFI relocation kits/harnesses are Mcully Racing (the 5.0l Miata folks) and Fat Foxx.

Hmmm I suppose it's a step that you can eliminate the coil itself. The problem does seem more spark related that fuel related, though I'm no expert in these early EFI systems. Let's see what others have to suggest.

Alex, Have you got the solenoid jumpered, or did you run a trigger wire from the fender relay output to your starter and move the cable to be powered all the time? When your truck is bucking and backfiring have you checked to see if the ignition coil is really hot? Because those symptoms sound like a failing coil. I hope you can get Daisy running right before the big road trip.

Right. The '87> tanks don't constrain the lower end of the fill tube. If you have the MPC illustration or the new filler neck you should see how they clamp at the top. When you're looking at the sender/pump assembly take note of where the supply and return are pointing. IIRC it's just one of the tabs that's different.

No. There are two headlamp sockets, so it installs pretty much as shown in the photo with one yellow harness leg going across the radiator support to the left headlamp and most of the rest installed right near your battery. LMC offers one for $25. https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/fd-1980-96-hd-headlight-harness Amazon has the Putco one for $54. https://a.co/d/9125u2i

The JBG harness seems specific to our trucks. Id imagine that it should fit and function, though I can't say I have installed one.

Description says the harness is for ground (negative) switched vehicles. That is going to be a real challenge to correct because all three sockets and both relays need to be re-configured. Is there a reason you can't find one made for our trucks? (no, I haven't looked yet)

Do NOT connect any stock gauge to *12V* They work on the 5.5V instrument cluster voltage regulator heating a resistor wire spring that loses tension as it heats up. If you want to test the instrument ground the sender wire and momentarily turn the key to 'run'. Depending on how many dash cracks you have you might consider some dashboard filler that comes in one of those dual piston syringes or some flex filler used for bumper fascias. This stuff bonds like crazy to whatever vinyl or urethane the automakers use outside the car. I don't see why it wouldn't be fine on a dash pad. Ron seems to have an update on the speaker bezel. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Finally-finished-Dash-Patch-td137381.html For whatever reason he always starts a new thread instead of following up on previous posts. There doesn't seem to be any information on how to actually place an order or transfer funds...

We do have mud daubers, paper hornets. carpenter bees and ground wasps (yellow jackets) that all want to set up house in your house during summer. We don't have any insects up here in winter when it's frozen. Sorry to hear your build plans got sidelined. I had a used 650 AVS on my truck for a couple of years. It worked fine once I cleaned it up, but I can't say what jetting it came with.

Congrats John! Well deserved.