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Welcome! It's unfortunate, but the feedback system is pretty much 'all or nothing'. EGR is actually good to have. It greatly increases the advance you can run without spark knock. Generally the sensors hold up, but the older distributor mounted TFI modules were known to fail from heat. We have a bunch of members from strict emissions states like California who must run their truck as it was delivered. They seem able to get the whole feedback system working. If you don't have restrictions like that and want to eliminate your computer/distributor/feedback carb/MAP sensor please consider offering them to another member that desperately needs them. Duraspark II was found on almost all of these 49 state trucks before 1984. Finding the correct wiring harness can be difficult and aftermarket kits are expensive and incomplete. The all in one HEI ignition is a fairly simple solution if you have some experience with older automotive electric systems and tuning.

Gary, noobie is lost. Sorry. You-Explain-Me. Hope this picture will help to determine what kind of vacuum source it is (ported or manifold). Assuming the location of the connection on the carb side, I suppose this is a “ported” source? Jeff, yes that port high on the choke side is timed or ported vacuum. In your diagram you can see the line going to the thermal switch is shown in red. By convention Ford vacuum lines are: Red = manifold White = ported Black = switched or delayed Green = switched for EGR/A.I.R. For manifold vacuum id suggest going to the capped port in the base flange, directly behind the lower tee.

That's a really clean machine for as old as it is! So what plans do you have for it Cory?

Great info Ralph! And it seems I have been giving bad information about how mine (yellow) functions. My apologies to Jeff who had it right with his second scenario, and anyone who took my word for gospel.

Scenario 2 is almost correct. The system is there to keep the engine within operating parameters... Cold and at temperature restricted vacuum reaches the distributor. Only when the coolant temperature far exceeds normal operating temperature should the thermal vacuum valve switch ports and apply unrestricted manifold vacuum. Ports in my yellow valve shift well above the boiling point of water at STP. (perhaps 220~225°F) Maybe Ralph or Gary knows what temp yours shifts at

Suck it and see... No, I don't believe they have any direction. (at least mine doesn't)

Awesome that you were able to get the correct restrictor. Looking forward to the driveability report when you get Big Bro tuned up!

I have the full schematic blown up onto 11x17 paper—3 sections of it. Sections 12.22-12.24 OK, so I snipped the wires today to install the deutsch—only one was hot in accy. So, I spliced them together into a deutsch barrel. I was wrong on the different color—both wht/ppl. Also the 1980 EVTM does NOT line up wiht my fuse box, but the 1981 does. Is this common? Gary and others can point out many instances where the factory documentation has errors. I don't feel bad for using the '81 EVTM illustrations now.. Perhaps there was a running change in the fuse block harness and your truck was built later in model year production? I'm afraid I can't offer insight. Maybe Ralph has more to say?

That was my first thought too, until I talked myself out of it, because, of the wht/green type wire fused to it in a single connector. What is the wht/grn? I must not be looking at the same picture as you. I only see the two white/purple wires. This is one instance that the EVTM will drive you crazy. They only show the circuits in whatever chapter. There is no full wiring diagram anywhere in the book.

You can search for chrome wagon wheels. I see that US Wheel has their 75 series in chrome, both 7 & 8" wide 15" 5 on 5.5 pattern. https://www.uswheel.com/wheel/7643/us-wheel-8-spoke-series-75/?finishID=1

Ah! Sorry about that.. Those are commonly known as Wagon Wheels. They used to be the cheapest thing in the aftermarket (40 years ago) American Racing and Western Wheels made them in white for $120 a set of four! .... I meant to say that 15 and 16" tires are getting thin on the ground. Regular pickup sizes like my 235/85 R-16 are still easy to find, and those 10.5x31 R-15 are still available. I think Deren said he is running 17" wheels. 17, 19, 20" rims are popular now. You may be able to find a rim that size with your 5 on 5.5 pattern.... IDK. The tires will certainly be more expensive. Edit: addressing metric tire sizes. You have tread width and aspect ratio (as a percentage of tread width) So, I have 235/85 R16. The tread is 235mm (about 9 /2" wide) and 85% of 235 is 200mm, or 8" tall from rim to tread surface. But like I said old style mud/floatation tires are still available in a 15" rim by 31" diameter. The 10.5" tire I mentioned fits a 7-9" wide rim, so might look best on 8"

AFAIK the diesel engines have always used a PMGR starter because of the high compression in those engines. I do believe the 6.9 & 7.3 take the same starter

Probably check that the pawl spring is pulling it into the quadrant teeth Maybe it's broken or the pivot is rusty. Maybe the quadrant teeth are worn.

Glad to hear you, wife and 'kids' are okay! Damn shame to hear your Thursday cruise-in has been cancelled. You were always so enthusiastic about it. You'll be comfortable with yet another Flareside no matter the direction you take. I'm always impressed by how practical you are with your reincarnation projects.

Good to see you back Cory! In your case the FOG keeps rolling in. What's up with your Mercury? Hope the summer has been treating you well. We've heard a lot about the climate conditions there in NS.

Key on or Accy. White/Purple doesn't seem to appear in the Bronco window up\down harness but it does show up as digital clock, 4wd indicator, rear window deicer, speed control and aux heater as fuse 6 (15A) For the pickups it's clock illumination, 4x4 indicator and auxiliary battery. Edit: 1980 screenshot showing u&f series side by side.....

There's still the option of a waterproof 40A circuit breaker like id originally mentioned. These are intended for trolling motors popular with fishing kayaks and very robust from what I've seen. Amazon, for $20 US (offshore) to $45 for top of the line Blue Seas brand. Never worry about keeping a spare or having to unbolt a blown fuse on an always hot battery connection. Just flip the lever back up

You can't go wrong with DS. He really knows his stuff! It's his life's calling after all... They look much more "stock" in keeping with your theme for Big Brother. Looking forward to see what you think about the new pattern and power. Gary's photos really show the difference in his (Big Blue's) lamps and I hope you are equally impressed.

Hi Jon, Your truck has 5 on 5.5" lug pattern and 15" rims When I was looking for replacement steelies for my truck I settled on Wheel Vintiques 62 series. They look really close and fit my dog dish hubcaps. A 31x10.5R 15 tire seems to fit 7=9" wide rim and still be available (unfortunately selections are getting small for these older rim diameters) I can't say about backspace, as my 250 came with 16" rims, but Gary should have data for stock 150 rims somewhere here on the site. Edit: just checked. They offer an 8" wide rim with 4" backspace. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wvi-62-585504

Take care of yourself. COVID has caught out far too many, it's no joke! I hope your dentist has forgiven you before you get back to him. Best wishes. . None of that is any fun.

Ingenious use for those IBC totes! I'm glad to see your Bullnose is ready to lend a hand.

Might want to seal it from underneath once the fiberglass has set and has bridged all the holes. I haven't worked with POR but I know it's tenacious and very hard when cured.

Your seats look beautiful! Just a heads up to be careful that you don't seal the oval body mount access plate to the rest of the floor. At some point you'll need to get in there..... Great job bringing Espy back to her former glory.

Unfortunately my means of interacting with this forum is an old Android phone. Screwing around with screenshots involves opening multiple tabs, scrolling those multiple pages of the '80 EVTM, holding power and volume down, then going back up a level to reach the tab I'm posting in (that's IF my post doesn't drop into the void while navigating multiple pages) then clicking insert image, my files, selecting the screenshot and uploading it into my post. It is MUCH easier to long hold and open the EVTM jpg, copy and paste the jpg's URL into my post. The ammeter and 1G charge circuits don't appear much different to me across years except a few pins of no consequence on the flex. Tell me what page you want from the 1980 and I will do it and upload it for you! Happy to help! Thanks, but I just wanted you to see which circuits I was talking about to wire your truck for a voltmeter (if you decide to) You see the blower power in the left side on pg. 80 of the '81 EVTM above. Ford was very good about keeping circuit numbers and wire colors consistent across years. It's not that I can't take and post screenshots. It's just fiddly from my phone.

ah no worries, still good things to check and i will. i apologize, my brain is running constantly (two full time jobs) so sometimes i dont convey things correctly Did the dragging motor possibly blow the 30A fuse in the fuse box? You should have power in 'key on' or 'accy' at the brown/orange wire. The other wire should go to the resistor.