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Appreciate the link. This forum is indeed an enigma sometimes...

Gary beat me to it, that is the page where I start going into the math for mine. I was looking at a larger pulley to bring the pulley ratio down on mine but decided against it as I have with a 2.50" pulley a 3:1 ratio which is ideal for a street vehicle. I found out via calipers that the pulley is larger than 2.50" which will drop the ratio down some below 3:1 to 2.71:1 which is below the recommended 3:1 ratio for a street vehicle. Turn on rpm of the alternator is 1,600 rpm on mine which means with an improper pulley ratio it would never self-excite at idle if it doesn't hit 1,600 rpm alternator speed. Mine will be at 1,600 rpm alternator speed around 500 - 525 rpm engine speed, this is why I stress to people to run an alternator that has a trigger wire as I have seen vehicles run one wire alternators and never hit that speed to self-excite. Rusty, 3G's have no need to 'self excite' That's the purpose of the hot in run LG/R wire in the regulator plug At a 3:1ratio the alternator is already turning 2,100 rpm with stock 700 idle

I see RYans460 just signed up over here. Hopefully we can give him the answers he needs....💡

Is your regulator labeled AIS? Honestly, I don't know why anyone would go back with another 2G. Marginal charging and cooling. I had a couple of rectifier boards go bad. But it took me only one time cooking that charge plug to realize it wasn't one of Ford's "Better Ideas"

Ford instruments of this era go back to the day of 6V systems, essentially unchanged. That would be Fuel, Coolant temp and Oil pressure. The Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator (ICVR) 'chops up' battery voltage and leves you with a ~5V average. Gary was going to build one from scratch but found and implemented a solid state solution (SWAD-J) If it's only the water temp instrument then you'll find the problem on the flex, or more likely in the plugs on the back of the cluster. Enjoy your Thanksgiving holiday!

Why did the guy change the regulator plug? If you read the TSB it says to replace the charge connector..... Yes, most new 2G's come with a hard wired pigtail and heat shrink butt connectors (to get rid of the faulty plug blade connectors) The two hot (bk/or) battery leads from the 2G should go to splice 202 which feeds the cab through Y-37, the far side of the shunt B/O-38 and the far side of the ammeter Y/LG 654. At the other end of the shunt (S203) we have the Y/W "sense" wire going to the regulator and the R/O wire(also coming from C610) that feeds the ammeter. These all join a single fusible link at Splice 203 before attaching to the always hot stud of the starter relay. The choke should be feeding from the white & black at the 2G output (not "from ignition on") because if the engine stalls while warming up the choke will continue to open. If his regulator is labeled( A S I ) then he doesn't need to feed stator current to the center wire, but he DOES have to connect the Y/W "sense" wire to A and the LG/R (trigger) ignition on wire to I. Edit: I see in post 37 his regulator is indeed labeled ASI. So, he only needs the two end wires connected. The '86 EVTM has the correct diagram..

Bluetop don't have cores so you have to send yours for refurbishment.

Yep, perfect quote. But hasn't Toyota been working on a hydrogen-burning vehicle? Surely that would fix our reserve problem. Just fill the bed. If you consider a PEM fuel cell "burning" then the Mirai has been out a couple of years.

Sure, why not?!? "Oh, the humanity!"

I think we each need to look into helium in the bed....

Please explain how my front axle reserve capacity is greater than my total reserve capacity.

Cory puts it well

You've got to remember that this isn't Gross Weight Rating. This is the suggested max additional constant load. Hitch a trailer to it. Fill it with rocks or roof shingles. The springs don't live with that on their back all the time.

Not Gary but check your spam. Might as well whitelist Nabble while you're at it.

I rarely find an instance where it's easier to un'fix' something than it would have been to fix it right the first time around. That said, if this truck doesn't die before I do I'm sure there'll be more than one person cursing my innovative engineering!

Thanks for that, Gary

"they"...... there's always a 'they'

How far over are you with Big Blue? (given the Warn bumper, winch, second battery, etc,etc, ad infinitum)

I didn't mean to suggest that the heated throttle body would make any difference with a cold start. Like I said, im not as familiar with these early systems as I should be, and just wanted to be sure I knew what I was talking about. Surely the ECU should command enough 'idle speed' that the engine runs. Regardless the lookup table, it doesn't want the engine to stumble and die.

Maybe i don't understand these early fuel injection systems, but shouldn't the idle air control valve be able to get the rpms up above 1k? The difference between intake air temp and coolant temperature should be what the computer uses to set injector pulse width. Is this year using a coolant heated throttle body?

The 1986 EVTM always has the wire colors and circuits numbered. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.html Id say circuit 3 (light green and white)

Harness should be wrapped, but like I said it looks like someone has already been there because Ford doesn't make splices like that.

From here it looks like someone has already wrapped and soldered a splice in that white wire at the center. I generally dislike this work. I helps if you can stagger th splices so you don't end up with one huge wad in the harness.

First, be sure you understand the difference between a sender and a sensor, because the parts store kid rarely does.... You want the one with a single red & white wire. Schematics and troubleshooting under 'Fuel Tank Selector and Gauges' in the 1986 EVTM. (section 18) https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.html

Yes, that's easy enough to do if you take it out and hammer it flat.