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If you've got no pump on either tank with the starter turning it's at the switch valve. I assume this is the 5pin blade connector you mean. Look at Pollak (or Standard who owns them) for the aftermarket valve pigtail I think you're talking about....

Don't forget the oil pressure cut-off appended to the sender behind the EGR. Though the pumps should receive power -at all times while cranking- through the blk/pink bypass wire. I told you, I know the schematics in my head because I'm autistic....

I don't know where Bill came up with that. I assume in the USMC. But it definitely fit my situation today, with a blown out knee and a blown up rear end. 🙄

I think the lock bolt is still in the carrier. I can't turn it with the gears jammed up in the crown like that. It's definitely not amongst the chunks in the bottom of the diff. I had fair warning. I didn't ever have time or place to drop the spare and peel the cover off, although I heard it coming. I work all night. Daylight is precious little. It's been raining/sleeting EVERY day off for six weeks. So, I just keep driving with my fingers crossed. I'm not one who's oblivious. And, I'm not one to neglect maintenance. I just haven't had the time, money, energy to deal with it and it finally bit me, Like I said, I didn't even need a tow! 😂🤣😆😂🤪🤣 Because I'm resourceful and at this point in my life I really don't (edited because "think of the children!")

Bill is known to say "up to my A-hole in alligators" ...meaning wading through a dangerous situation mired in "muck". (This is to not trigger Gary or upset the 'family oriented' audience) As you might believe of a crabby old truck driver with a New York mob background my daily conversation would make a sailor blush

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news . 😔 I've heard nothing but good about US Shift controllers. I've heard stories of people who screw up the installation and blame the unit. 🤥 Good luck!

I'm going to assume this truck has Hot Fuel Handling with electric pumps in the tanks? Not to tell you your job but start with the fuse links, confirm the inertia switch, jumper the oil pressure cutoff before condemning the relays in the system.. After that, go looking at power at the pumps themselves (unless the exact problem is already known...)

Because if the seats are anything like the Bronco seats I know the drivers armrest will be in the passenger door....

Pollak 42-159p 6 port w/switch & pigtail. 3/8 supply, 5/16 return For in-tank pumps up to 60psi. Stable motor driven valve, 0.5A max @12V Applications: Ford F series 1977-86 (87 for 351 HO and 7.5 w/ carburetor) $79.91 Edit. ***You don't need the switch but the kit is cheaper than ordering the valve and pigtail ala carte*** https://www.ase-supply.com/searchresults.asp?Search=Pollak+42159p&Submit=

You probably want the D shaped F795 LRC regulators are white not grey. Here's one on eBay, cheap... https://www.ebay.com/itm/255635368543?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Eo-X25ItSQu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=V52-0s-ZTpm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL

The extra length is only 5/8" from C to pivot, but that puts the larger body of the alternator a bit farther away from the block and bracket so it has some room to swing. If you go with the 7" 130 there is no room for adjustment. The adjuster arm fits fine in every case I've seen, but maybe mock it up in cardboard or something if you're worried. I would try Maniac Electric Motors. They've always been very responsive and quick to ship, for me. Be sure to get the correct shape regulator to fit the pigtail you just bought. Some are 'D' shaped and others more rectangular. I don't have it all here in front of me, but I know the pitfalls.

Load Response Control..... Yes, I'm a pedant. 🤣

The shafts are all 17 mm. You just swap it out, but sometimes you need a tiny shim behind to keep the pulley from rubbing on the case. (Depending on the specific pulley) The belt goes halfway around... So the traction area of the rubber belt on the pulley is good. Instead of some setup where the belt only wraps a third of the way around or less.

💡 Gary has a larger dual sheave alternator pulley I sent him from L&L, but he's not using it because he went EFI with a serpentine (polygroove) belt. Maybe the two of you can work something out?

Given the condition of that fluid and the amount of friction material I wouldn't get your hopes up.

Okay, I misread your post. We're on the same page. I need to go scrub up and find some differential parts.

If your senders are switched at the dash it's different than '85 but that's NOT what your book is showing. I'm covered in gear oil and up to my 'butt' in alligators today. I will definitely get you a part number and source when I calm down. Thanks for the diagram. It helps me figure out what you need

3G you have the choice of 95A (small 135mm case) or 130A (larger 148mm case) These reliably put out 125 & 160A respectively. Your current setup is definitely 7" C-C. If you want the 130A get the 8.25" for adjustability. I don't know how your belts are set up now but finding a crank pulley with adjacent sheaves that are the same size is challenging at best..... I have a single belt and with a LRC regulator I have no squeak on startup or slippage (but I do have good belt wrap)

I know where to get parts but I don't know anyone to do the work.

Okay, after blowing out my knee this weekend and finally getting some rest yesterday I'm on meds and back under my truck. This is NOT GOOD! I'm going to have to fall back and regroup. Chunks of spiders caught up tight in the ring gear and a 1" pin from the carrier snapped clean in half. Thanks to the Oxy I haven't completely blown my top, but this needs to be addressed right now. Paul Campbell, the guy who set it up 16? odd years ago is gone and I don't know anyone I trust to do it right. I guess my next move is to call Rockland Gear for parts, because Excelsior Machine Works is out of business. So I can't ask them for a name and number.

Gary doesn't have the 1984 EVTM up on the website so I cannot say absolutely which valve is best for you, but going from the '85 EVTM we can see the senders are switched at the valve rather than the switch, and the switch is DPDT. Default is rear and the switch applies power all the time to the valve rather than being momentary (to drive the valve to the opposite stable position) With the oil pressure cutoff controlling the pump motor relay pull in, and the inertia switch before the relay. 1985 has a separate tank selector relay rather than the actual switch providing power to the pumps. Senders and pumps ALL come back to G701 which is behind the instrument panel by the radio. Here's the schematics and the blurb on troubleshooting. I'll find the right valve kit, with pigtail, and link it in a bit. (I'm under the truck today with a blown out knee)

It's all one plate with a bent back chin, two bolts into the bellhousing and a louver to let smoke and dust out. There was only one manual behind a 460 from '83 (when Ford introduced the hydraulic clutch) until the Zf-5 came out in late '87 production. The T-19. Three flavours though. Close ratio diesel, wide ratio 2wd 460 and lower 1st wide ratio 460 4x4. Suggestions: Put a 15/16 deep on the crank and turn about a 1/4 revolution. Does the starter engage cleanly now? Pull the starter and see how chewed that spot of the ring gear is. It always stops at the same spot because 7&8 fire one right after the other. You'll need to pull the flywheel in any case to install the plate, but stick a test indicator on the back of the block and check if the crank flange is bent and the flywheel wobbling. This is what was/is eating my starters. Good luck!

Winter beaters like plow trucks can sit broken for 9 months, but come the first blizzard all of the sudden it's CRITICAL! Snowblowers fall in this "unique" category as well.

I'm that weirdo who remembers details and minutiae but wouldn't see a gorilla in the room. 😂 Yeah, in another thread the OP talked about how he got the truck and wanted to know what to do. Get a US Shift (nee Baumann) stand alone shift controller with TPS and speed sensor... After posting these photos my unexpert opinion is "Stick a fork in it, It's done" But I definitely don't know auto's.

I knew, after hearing your complaints about ride quality, Big Blue needed an RSK. The forward shackles make steering box geometry simpler but TTB with leaf springs that twist and have a fingers width of travel are never going to work. An axle that drives into the obstruction doesn't help. I KNOW ALL TOO WELL! WTH were they thinking at The Motor Company when it was approved for production? Shaun's insight and Sky's experience came together in the moment. The off chance of "the giving truck" falling in my lap netted you a PDC, Hydroboost, intake plenum and almost 250# of "stuff". 😆