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I'm all for beating something with a femur*! (Insert Kubrick's eponymous opening scene) Sometimes, clicking a single button and having it appear on your doorstep is the stupidest thing you can do!

How did you determine pressure on the relief valve?

Maybe if you're feeling the urge, you should do something about the swing gate? 🤔

It's a C2?

Interesting quote... 😕 https://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/2024/02/air-canada-must-honor-refund-policy-invented-by-airlines-chatbot/ 😄😆😅😂🤣

Don't think for a second that I didn't chuckle! But, are those white lettered Cooper tires, All Season, All Terrain or Mud+Snow? 🙄 Are they nitrogen filled?!? 🤔 (Even the 15 year old girl behind the counter at AutoZone should know the answer to this) 😉

CJ, I know you're a bit out of your depth with 'confusers' and I'm right there with you! But, I want to point out that there are now companies that will take a plan (digital version of your sketch) and cut them out with a laser/plasma/water jet then press brake them, and ship within hours in many cases. I know that -Send, Cut, Send- now offers bends along with their cut service, but I don't know the thickness limitations. There's dozens of online job shops with brokers like Xometry as well. You may have the abilities to make all those neat cuts. I'm just pointing out options available through this 'newfangled information superhighway'

We need the 'weirdo' cranked neck valve that fits a 300, but we need a vacuum delay valve that never came on a truck with computer controlled solenoids... 🤔 Eta: im learning a lot about these arcane systems. But we've got to come up with something that never existed, and unfortunately there's not a lot of specific documentation on long obsolete, optimized engine management. We'll get there. 💡 This bear's got a bone, and I'm not about to let go..

This is why I'm always careful to mention "the four fingered one" You can get JUST this bushing, but it isn't available in the HELP section of almost every auto parts store in the nation. Hence, the conundrum!.

CJ, I can understand your confusion. I haven't been forgetful. A few family crisis' have cropped up and i apologize... So, here we see the listings for an EGR, and what I discover is that different carbs are tuned to work with different ones. Also, given that your truck doesn't have a factory carb or it's solenoid pack, serious investigation is required. Id suggested going with a pre-emissions calibration, but that isn't going to work with EGR. And carbs that work with 'analog' EGR have throttle 'valves' that unload the vacuum applied to one. So. We need to find one that constantly bleeds off, without being a huge vacuum leak.

This is fabrication 201. I'm not really sure that you would ever need to go there Gary, but Bob might.

This should be documented. I've posted this number too many times before. The packaging has changed in the last 16 years, but the product remains available.

Yes, crushing the little bead around each port is key. But, like only using graphite grease to seal the exhaust manifolds, it wasn't great, with factory fresh parts... I understand heat transfer. 💡 I also understand why these engines had such a bad reputation for leaks and cracked manifolds, even back in the day. Retortuing procedures, after X heat cycles are pretty critical.

Nice! Don't turn the wheel with the engine off and a C2 pump, or it will pee out the vent in the cap, all over the place. I hope you get the pump sorted. It seems real odd that it could be airbound and silent.

Interesting that you have a welder, and didn't just make 'frame savers' rather than replacing the complete horns. I get it, on a full restoration, but man that's a lot of work for something that will likely never be seen.

The only problem with a shop crane/engine hoist is that it lowers in an arc, and not straight down. With a pan you only really have to seal the lifter valley. The manifold itself doesn't matter at the china walls, only at the ports. You also realize that their chemical recommendation reflects only wat was widely* available when it was written. I know that when "TRS" came out in GM dealers, it was immediately viewed a a problem solver by all mechanics, across the industry.

This is the very same mill that machined those engines.... 😳 And some more machines salvaged from the same shipyard when it closed.

I'm pretty sure. I glued a piece of the bottom of a pop can over a crack. This stuff is tenacious, and even when it's so old it discolours, it's still plenty strong. If anything I'd be concerned about my prep of the stainless, but I got after them with a stone in my Foredom.

I used some ancient G-Flex the other day to glue some stainless flange nuts into my nephews broken spoiler

Hey, I like that idea! Not like I'm using my barbells for what they are designed for. 😂 Lock one collar above the other, as tight as you can. (for backup) Use a pretty big weight with little taps. It's pretty easy to stand there and hit it if the collars are about crotch high.

I've cut a piece of pipe already. On the hammer thing... One that's not big enough I'm sure. I've got a slide hammer here I may try to rig for this. I'm shooting a video. It may end up in the "Comedy" category. 😁 If you think you can do the 'slide hammer' thing, just get a plate weight and the lock collars from a barbell. That should work..

And yet.... here we are. 🙄 The guy needs to shift the cam gear one tooth in the chain! The keyways point directly at each other. If he couldn't get the sprockets started, he should have just slipped the cam gear in the chain and tried again. Instead, he managed to get it all the way on, but with the cam retarded one whole tooth.

Go to The Big box store Get yourself a piece of black iron pipe that fits over the axle. Set the flange on a chunk of wood on the floor, axle up. Bearing over axle, pipe on top of bearing. How big a hammer do you have? 🤔

You're not a moron like the last guy. I'm certain you'll make it right. 👍 If there's a way I can help, just LMK