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You may be right. The AFR and Trick Flow ones all have SCJ ports. I use the blue Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal* gaskets myself, But I really need the floor of my plenum heated in winter

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I'm sure* #2 would be fine, but I always just use a light smear of whatever tube I have in my hand. I don't see intake gasket leaks... 🤨

😄😆😂🤣 You got me! I'm dead! 💀

Purchase intake gaskets with the block off plates already adhered. You don't want it be juggling little pieces of tin* covered in slippery silicone when you're trying to get that intake down square. I should have said, above, that short of the squeezy cheese can of "The Right Stuff" I will go with the ultra Gray, front and back every day.

Wife with alcohol and then play the flame of a propane towards her butane lighter over the surface. This leaves plastic molecules with a higher surface energy to bond to the glue, or for the glue to bond too There shouldn't be any problem with it coming loose. That stuff is tenacious. You've seen the kayak video, I'm sure... *Wipe* ..... *torch or*...... *to them*.........have I mentioned how much I HATE predictive keyboards and AI augmented speech to text? It's almost like the first iteration of Dragon, but it shoves it back in, even if you correct it. 🤬

Managing to lower the incredibly heavy cast iron manifold straight down without letting* that turkey pan to budge is quite the challenge! Gary says to get two long 3/8 bolts cut the heads off and thread them in opposite corners the vertical holes in the heads Use them as guides. IDK, I went to aluminum in '89 and haven't looked back

Soaking in a Tupperware of Evaporust as we 'speak'. 😉

Yes, that seems a good plan if you're looking to fill the holes individually. And, of course, you'll be painting w/SEM afterwards, so minor imperfections aren't a big deal as long as the prep is good and the epoxy hangs on. Gary, you're old enough to remember those vinyl repair kits that came with a few leather textures and you would iron the sheet over the unvulcanized patching paste, that claimed "invisible repair"?

You can't just add up components, because there are always inefficiencies in the system. In wires, in connectors, in splices & in the components themselves.... So while determining how much power each component uses you can't just add them up and arrive at a number that's meaningful You're looking at a system, you need to measure the system You don't need to call up the manufacturer, although having a spec sheet does make it simple. You just use ohm's law and measure with a meter or a bench power supply *to determine* what that component or circuit consumes

Really hot, implies that it's an inductor, and that it's already saturated. So you've got a coil of wire that's charged up and creating a magnetic flux and it's still on the receiving end of electrons. Once the coil is saturated it has to do something with that energy so it sheds it as heat. This is why you find ballast resistors in ignition coil circuits. To limit the flow of electricity into the coil, when the coil has more dwell time than it needs to reach the full field. Is this an adequate explanation? Are there some other terms I should use, or an analogy, or something?

You are welcome! Glad it can be of use to you.

Is that Fel-pro one pink rubber? I've never seen that before.

It's garbage Trust me, it won't last. Ask Bill Or Gary. Or any other 460 guy that has to keep replacing all their vacuum lines. ETA I've got to say, at least you seem to believe me. A lot of people are incredulous, about a lot of things... Learning to drive stick at 12 in a Ferrari. Being run over by a tractor trailer. Lots of things..🙄

Lower: https://www.autopartsandstuff.com/Motorcraft--CG-536-B--Carburetor-Mounting-Gasket_p_48927.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/275138048802 Upper: https://www.ebay.com/itm/174487054818 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1341984-egr-spacer-gaskets.html

If you want the leather texture I'd say find an inconspicuous spot and use RTV to make an impression, so I can put that on the outside, either over a dab of G-Flex or fill the hole from the back with a toothpick, popsicle stick or something similar (I use a palate knife)

Link should be fixed now. I forgot to check that HTML thing for the embedded link. Current bearing is tapered. I guess the new one is something different. The box it came in calls it a Tapered Roller Bearing, but it isn’t. Yeah. The NASCAR style bearing does not allow setting play like a tapered bearing does. There was a thread about finding the style you seem to have ordered, recently. Maybe search 9" hub bearing....? It wasn't long ago IIRC.

Fel-pro is NOT OEM I have posted the number and photos of the bag here and FTE. I'll have to find it because I'm not near my parts stash now. Loctite Pipe Sealant w/ Teflon This is an anerobic meant for refineries and chemical plants. It is NOT anything from the plumbing aisle! There have been extensive discussions.... Gary could probably link them. if you don't like breaking bolts off in the water pump and timing case I've found nothing better.

Do you have any of that G-Flex left? Otherwise go to the parts store and get bumper & facia filler.

Link is broken. Do you have tapered roller instead of barrel?

We know this...... 🙄 On a side note, Cory, what the heck have you got there! 🧐 Midlife crisis??? 😂

If you keep 460 EGR be very sure to use the Motorcraft pink rubber egr spacer gasket. It is for a very late carb application (in the F53 RV chassis (It has an E8TE part number..... I've posted it somewhere, and given away probably 8 of them, because I bought a 10 pack) If you use a crap gasket it WILL blow out the passenger side. And if you have stock vacuum lines it will cut them and the PCV tube in half just under the secondary vacuum pot. DAMHIK Bill will confirm! But you're right. If one or the other, go for correct valve timing. When you pull the water pump, closely inspect the backing plate for pitting. FRPP have new ones for ~$35... It's going to be in there for a LONG time, and you don't want to lose coolant into the sump. (Gary's Huck was even missing this! His timing case was broken because of it) Use copious amounts of PST on all fasteners through the timing case and water pump+backing plate. Be careful of the convolute weep passages on the back of the timing case where the pump pushes into the engine. Do NOT pack them with sealant. They are your lifeline if a leak develops you will see it instead of going straight into the oil pan.

Just look at those kids, living the life! Congratulations to you both!

Get yourself a little 6 position fused relay box, like I did You can choose whatever key on source you like. (If it's going near the battery I suggest the LG/R alternator excite wire) Use it to trigger relays. They only pull a few milliamps. Set up as many fused & relayed circuits as you need.

Both call out "heavy duty" chain. So, a step below the Street True Roller timing set of old.... The only thing I can think is CI v/s steel gear. You say it'll be a fun weekend cruiser and not used in anger. Don't worry about it.....